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post #31 of 60 Old 03-11-2014, 07:58 AM
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What about light spillage from the projector? I think that is what he means.
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post #32 of 60 Old 03-11-2014, 08:08 AM
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It sounded like his concern was the black bars but if it's spillage, than yes, the closer the screen is to the ceiling, the more reflections you will get. If the ceiling/soffit is painted black, I don't think it would hurt image quality very much, but if it's distracting, you could install a black velvet panel on the bottom of the soffit or on the ceiling above the screen.

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post #33 of 60 Old 03-12-2014, 09:52 AM
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Sorry to show my ignorance, but what is the consensus on the benefits to having a front stage in a basement theater build? I am debating the idea from a design/look perspective, but would like to know if there are benefits I am overlooking.

Jeff in Detroit
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post #34 of 60 Old 03-12-2014, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

STRAIGHT STAGE AND SCREEN WALL 101


Wrap them in either black GOM FR701 or black velvet and put in place.


Big, are your 4 panels just friction fit into place? Or are they secured somehow?
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post #35 of 60 Old 03-12-2014, 01:48 PM
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usually just friction fit occasionally if the panel is loose a couple dabs of Velcro.
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post #36 of 60 Old 03-12-2014, 04:47 PM
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post #37 of 60 Old 03-12-2014, 05:26 PM
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When it comes to the stage is it necessary to fill it all with sand or can you utilize insulation too?

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post #38 of 60 Old 03-12-2014, 06:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Good point with the insulation in the stage, is that even effective???

I need some help here guys!!

I had a meeting today with the builder, electrician and heating cooling guy for my build. I am basically just winging this thing and the builder and electrician are not theater builders, but we are on page and I think I can get close to what I want. I have decided that I cannot have an AT screen, maybe down the road, but just not now. One of the reasons are that the ceiling is to low and I am doing a soffit for a Night Sky Mural, so it will conflict with the screen size. So I have decided to just go with a front stage and a fixed screen. There is just not enough room to do an AT screen, but I am fine with it. Cannot have it all I guess.

I need help with a screen size. I am using a Panasonic PT-8000AU. I will be mounting on the ceiling from about 12' to 13'. We figured that a good screen size would be about 4' high and 6' to 7' wide. Can any point in the direction of a screen and aspect ratio. I just know nothing about projectors and screens. I really need help with this.

Thanks in advance.
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post #39 of 60 Old 03-12-2014, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbadbob View Post

When it comes to the stage is it necessary to fill it all with sand or can you utilize insulation too?

The short answer is no, at least that's what BIG told me when I PM'd him about it. I'm sure he'll weigh in and tell you more.
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post #40 of 60 Old 03-13-2014, 06:15 AM
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Just my opinion, but I never understood why people made stages where the first step went most of the width of the room. To me, you're losing area in the middle of the stage, which I think is the exact spot you'd want room for someone to stand. I like putting steps to the outside and leaving the center at full height.
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post #41 of 60 Old 03-13-2014, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

usually just friction fit occasionally if the panel is loose a couple dabs of Velcro.

Thank you, good sir
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post #42 of 60 Old 03-13-2014, 07:24 AM
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The point of the stage is not to stand on. It's to create a massive base for your sub woofer. Using sand helps keep the rest of the house from vibrating. If you add 1.5 tons of play sand into the stage and keep it from touching the walls, your sub will have to try to vibrate all that mass before it gets to the floor and the rest of the house. Also, in order to get the real bass punch most of us are looking for, the sub cannot vibrate the surface it is sitting on. By having such a solid, massive surface the sub speaker fires as it is designed to. There are far greater explanations out there, but this is the jist of it.    


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post #43 of 60 Old 03-13-2014, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

The short answer is no, at least that's what BIG told me when I PM'd him about it. I'm sure he'll weigh in and tell you more.

I'm also going off what Big said, I'll try to regurgitate to the best of my ability....

Filling the stage is done for 2 reasons
-to stop it from acting like a big drum. for this, filling with insulation (as you do for a riser) would work just fine
-to stop the speakers and especially subs from shaking everything in the room - essentially you want to sit the speakers/subs on something so much more massive than the speakers themselves that it just absorbs all of the vibrations from the speakers/subs without transferring the vibrations to everything else. By using insulation, you've got (approximating here) 100 lbs of speakers on 150 lbs of lumber. By filling it with sand, you've got 100 lbs of speaker on 3000+ lbs of lumber and sand.

Hope that makes sense, and reflects some sort of truth.
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post #44 of 60 Old 03-13-2014, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

The point of the stage is not to stand on. It's to create a massive base for your sub woofer. Using sand helps keep the rest of the house from vibrating. If you add 1.5 tons of play sand into the stage and keep it from touching the walls, your sub will have to try to vibrate all that mass before it gets to the floor and the rest of the house. Also, in order to get the real bass punch most of us are looking for, the sub cannot vibrate the surface it is sitting on. By having such a solid, massive surface the sub speaker fires as it is designed to. There are far greater explanations out there, but this is the jist of it.    
I disagree. However, if that's the only reason for it, then I think we should start calling it a sub-base.
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post #45 of 60 Old 03-13-2014, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly View Post

Plus stages just look cool cool.gif

Which is the only reason I have one. Mine doesn't hold a sub or karaoke singers. I just like the look.
W00lly likes this.
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post #46 of 60 Old 03-13-2014, 08:45 AM
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My stage is simply to hold subs and look bad-ass.
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post #47 of 60 Old 03-13-2014, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly View Post

Plus stages just look cool cool.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Which is the only reason I have one. Mine doesn't hold a sub or karaoke singers. I just like the look.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgolko View Post

My stage is simply to hold subs and look bad-ass.
All the above I had to explain to my WAF several times the purpose. I even had to lay it out with 2x4s to show her. She final gave one of those do whatever you want looks. rolleyes.gif My build is second floor so I could only use pink stuff. Unless the screen was retractable I would not want anyone up there any way. If you want to do karaoke or something go elsewhere. I have 2 subs on my stage.
20131229_142843.jpg
before velvet panels
20131019_151432.jpg
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post #48 of 60 Old 05-19-2014, 01:50 AM
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talk about a wall of sound eek.gif your avatar name says it all biggrin.gif do you have a build thread?

Sorry not my build.
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post #49 of 60 Old 06-02-2014, 12:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

STRAIGHT STAGE AND SCREEN WALL 101


You build a frame on top of roofing felt, keeping it 1/2 inch away from walls



You line each cavity with plastic and fill with play sand
Hey Big. Sorry for a noob question, but with this pic here, you said to keep the stage a 1/2" from the wall with shims, so what do you do to anchor it? Does the sand give enough weight to stay in place or do you anchor to the floor somehow? I have a concrete slab floor.
I will be starting on the stage build next week or following week. So want to get my plans ready.
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post #50 of 60 Old 06-02-2014, 01:04 PM
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Dave, there's no way your stage will move once if have sand in it. Mine has 2500lbs of sand in it, there's no way that thing is moving a mm. smile.gif
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post #51 of 60 Old 06-02-2014, 01:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

Dave, there's no way your stage will move once if have sand in it. Mine has 2500lbs of sand in it, there's no way that thing is moving a mm. smile.gif
Cool, That is was I thought, on the flip side I was not sure if it would rattle or walk a bit with some big bass, cause big bass will be on tap. wink.gif Did you just buy bags of play sand or did you have it delivered in bulk? going up to Lowes now to get a door, gonna check out some play sand prices frown.gif
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post #52 of 60 Old 06-02-2014, 01:35 PM
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No I bought a full light of playground sand from Home Depot. Personally I'd rather spend the extra money on the playground sand because its be sterilized, washed and screened, but if you just bought bulk sand you could have stuff growing in it, bugs and of course I would guess you'd have moisture in it too.
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post #53 of 60 Old 07-17-2014, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by W00lly

Plus stages just look cool

Quote:Originally Posted by Spaceman

Which is the only reason I have one. Mine doesn't hold a sub or karaoke singers. I just like the look.

Quote:Originally Posted by sgolko

My stage is simply to hold subs and look bad-ass.

All the above I had to explain to my WAF several times the purpose. I even had to lay it out with 2x4s to show her. She final gave one of those do whatever you want looks. My build is second floor so I could only use pink stuff. Unless the screen was retractable I would not want anyone up there any way. If you want to do karaoke or something go elsewhere. I have 2 subs on my stage.

before velvet panels
CW, did you screw the goalpost false wall down through that carpet?
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post #54 of 60 Old 07-17-2014, 02:35 PM
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CW, did you screw the goalpost false wall down through that carpet?
Yes I did and Into the drywall above go to my screen build link to se details
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post #55 of 60 Old 09-07-2015, 07:33 PM
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[Reviving old but good thread]

Once you have a frame built for the stage, I had a few questions:

1. Is there any difference in using MDF, OSB, or Plywood for decking? I have some extra MDF lying around that I thought I might use.
2. What is the best way to line the cavities with plastic? Do you just take plastic drop cloth and cut it to size?
3. Any difference between a bag of play sand vs. a bag of multipurpose sand? In larger quantities, the multi-purpose sand is a little cheaper (and a larger bag could mean fewer trips!)
4. I plan to replace the carpet in the entire room, but for the purposes of building the stage, is there any reason that I couldn't leave that 24" portion there for extra vibration/sound absorption under the stage? (I'll cut and rip out the rest next month when things get really messy)

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Last edited by crimsonblue; 09-08-2015 at 04:36 AM.
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post #56 of 60 Old 09-08-2015, 01:16 PM
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1) not really I would use at least two layers of 3/4 or three layers of 5/8. use GG or roofing felt between layers, lots of screws for the last layer.

2 over-sized piece of plastic drop cloth, fill at least 3/4 full punch the sand into the corners and then trim the plastic even with the top edge, fill the remaining cavities no more than 7/8 full. There is some floor structure design research that suggests mixing sawdust with the sand to keep it from compacting too much is beneficial in making it dampen vibration. Totally filled and overly compacted sand is not a good, it acts more like concrete than sand.

3) play sand is washed and has less dust. Workers who have been around sand dust for 20 years have had health issues. Just be sure what ever you put in is bone dry and I wear a mask when pouring. Pouring is not an activity for your young kids to help (breathing the dust) with nor let your cats have access to the room, you've been warned.

4) in the unlikely event that you have a minor water event (leaky water heater for example) you will regret leaving carpet anywhere you can't easily rip it out.

Last edited by BIGmouthinDC; 09-08-2015 at 01:20 PM.
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post #57 of 60 Old 09-09-2015, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
STRAIGHT STAGE AND SCREEN WALL 101


You build a frame on top of roofing felt, keeping it 1/2 inch away from walls




You line each cavity with plastic and fill with play sand




Add decking, two layers of 3/4 plywood or OSB with Roofing felt or GG between layers leave a 1 1/2 inch lip and round over with a router.




You build a screen support structure and add the z clips for the screen frame.







You make 4 frames for around the screen top,bottom, left and right. Picture of the ones for the top and bottom:




Wrap them in either black GOM FR701 or black velvet and put in place.

Hey Big, what type of screen and frame did you use? Was this a kit?

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post #58 of 60 Old 09-09-2015, 08:23 AM
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That screen was Falcon serial #00000002 . 00000001 was the prototype at Rich's house. If you look at the Rawlinsway build thread I think there are more pictures of the screen assembly. I think all AT screens ship un-assembled. You put the frame together and attach the fabric. Falcon uses some very easy to use quick assembly brackets and an O ring post and loop design for the grommetted screen fabric.
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post #59 of 60 Old 09-12-2015, 07:00 AM
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I'm taking up carpet from the area where my new stage is going to go, and there is a carpet pad underneath. I know that the guidance has been to build the stage on the concrete floor, but why wouldn't it be beneficial to build it on top of the pad? I will be using roofing felt on the bottom too.

1. If the resonance of the concrete is why we all pour sand, why not pad the bottom of the stage to reduce resonance from the wooden stage touching the concrete floor?

2. How far do you guys extend the stage past the screen frame into the room? 18-24 inches?
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Last edited by crimsonblue; 09-12-2015 at 08:26 AM.
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post #60 of 60 Old 09-12-2015, 09:31 AM
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if you ever have a minor water event, trapping a sponge under the stage won't seem like a good idea at that future date. Usually minor events are remedied with industrial sized drying equipment or removing the carpet. If you don't take out the sponge it won't dry fast enough to avoid mold and odor.
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