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post #31 of 123 Old 06-13-2014, 10:42 AM
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I am curious about your planned Screen size. My vague understanding is for a screen that size, you need to spend A LOT of money on a projector, and things like the Panasonic ae8000 (or a JVC DLA-49/ 57/67) aren't bright enough for that image size.

I was kind of thinking doing a 12' Wide x 61" tall screen, but was told that even in a totally light controlled room, these projectors aren't going to work if using an Acoustically Transparent Screen, that has limited gain options.

What have you heard/ what are your thoughts? I wondered if that is just for 'absolute optimal viewing' and how quickly the image starts to look worse.

Kevin
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post #32 of 123 Old 06-13-2014, 10:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
I am curious about your planned Screen size. My vague understanding is for a screen that size, you need to spend A LOT of money on a projector, and things like the Panasonic ae8000 (or a JVC DLA-49/ 57/67) aren't bright enough for that image size.

I was kind of thinking doing a 12' Wide x 61" tall screen, but was told that even in a totally light controlled room, these projectors aren't going to work if using an Acoustically Transparent Screen, that has limited gain options.

What have you heard/ what are your thoughts? I wondered if that is just for 'absolute optimal viewing' and how quickly the image starts to look worse.

Kevin
We currently sit 12' away from a 134" screen... I still wanted bigger so with the new theater it is much easier (IMO) to just go with the biggest screen I can fit on the wall. By doing this I will never need to buy another screen. Once we get the screen up I will play with the screen size until I find one I am happy with, and then mask the rest with black acoustically transparent material. Once we get it all setup, I will measure the lumens to see where we are at, and then finalize the size.

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post #33 of 123 Old 06-13-2014, 05:05 PM
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Do you already own the BenQ? I have viewed/set up the Epson 2030 for a friend. It gets LARGE, and is very bright...even for a semi-light-controlled room. It is the lower end of the series, and there is no lens shift...so this may not be the model, but a step or two up, while still affordable, may play nice with the size that you want.
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post #34 of 123 Old 06-13-2014, 06:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kevin g. View Post
Do you already own the BenQ? I have viewed/set up the Epson 2030 for a friend. It gets LARGE, and is very bright...even for a semi-light-controlled room. It is the lower end of the series, and there is no lens shift...so this may not be the model, but a step or two up, while still affordable, may play nice with the size that you want.
I have the BenQ already, and I just got the AE8000... The BenQ will move to the MB, and the AE8000 will become the HT projector since it is brighter yet.

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post #35 of 123 Old 06-13-2014, 07:21 PM
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Hey Ellisr63, making great progress. I like that door.
Keep the updates coming
Would it be possible to post all the screen build details when you get to that part?
Very interested to see how you do it and what you findings are.


Thanks for the post in HA.
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 We are going to be putting a drain right under the water heater... I hope that that takes care of any potential problem.
On that note maybe a water sensor in with the hotwater tank

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post #36 of 123 Old 06-13-2014, 08:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Waterboy77 View Post
Hey Ellisr63, making great progress. I like that door.
Keep the updates coming
Would it be possible to post all the screen build details when you get to that part?
Very interested to see how you do it and what you findings are.


Thanks for the post in HA.


On that note maybe a water sensor in with the hotwater tank

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I will take pics and post the construction of the screen. The hot water heater has a tray that also has a drain built in to it.

Good idea on the water alarm... I forgot all about them! We had one in our last house for the dishwasher, and clothes washer.

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post #37 of 123 Old 06-14-2014, 07:54 AM
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Great, keep up the great work
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post #38 of 123 Old 06-14-2014, 08:29 AM
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OT sir TS, out of curiousity: i own BenQ and just wondering if hi-end PJ like AE8000 is Night and Day superb in PQ vs the 1070? ( Sorry to ask, in my place no one is selling hi end PJ )


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post #39 of 123 Old 06-14-2014, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyhog View Post
OT sir TS, out of curiousity: i own BenQ and just wondering if hi-end PJ like AE8000 is Night and Day superb in PQ vs the 1070? ( Sorry to ask, in my place no one is selling hi end PJ )


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I will let you know when we get it installed... It is still in the box. It should be brighter and have better blacks. The main reason I went for the 8000 was the power zoom, focus, and memory.

Denon 4520ci, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, (4) Klipsch HIPs, (2) Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, (3) Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000us SeymourAV 180 (195" diagonal) scope screen, Yamaha P7000s (for the subs), (2) Yamaha P2500s amps for the front (3) bass bins.
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post #40 of 123 Old 06-14-2014, 10:43 AM
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thank u sir. Looking forward on ur comparison reviews. Bookmarked


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post #41 of 123 Old 06-20-2014, 12:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Yesterday we worked on the stage and today we got the frame put together.

Here is the screen frame temporarily hanging about 2' farther away then it will be mounted... Viewed from the front row.

Here is from the 2nd row...

Denon 4520ci, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, (4) Klipsch HIPs, (2) Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, (3) Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000us SeymourAV 180 (195" diagonal) scope screen, Yamaha P7000s (for the subs), (2) Yamaha P2500s amps for the front (3) bass bins.
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post #42 of 123 Old 06-20-2014, 05:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
Yesterday we worked on the stage and today we got the frame put together.

Here is the screen frame temporarily hanging about 2' farther away then it will be mounted... Viewed from the front row.
Is that the Extruded Aluminum frame? Is that of the "T-SLot" variety?
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post #43 of 123 Old 06-20-2014, 10:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
Is that the Extruded Aluminum frame? Is that of the "T-SLot" variety?
Yes, we used 1x2 extruded aluminum "T" slot. with 8 hole plates on each corner and to connect the center pieces together... We did this for both sides. I am doing it a little different as I am going to mount the screen on the front instead of the rear like SeymourAV does. I think it will be easier to make the wood frame, and wrap with velvet this way. We are not using any supports as we will be attaching the frame at multiple points for mounting.

The back wall (garage door) has not been started yet as we need to be able to get the carpet in first.

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Last edited by ellisr63; 06-21-2014 at 12:15 AM.
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post #44 of 123 Old 06-21-2014, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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I solved the LED rope light won't turn off problem!! What I did was get one of these, and plug it into a cheater plug, and then plug the cheater plug into my dimmer outlet... I tried it down to 1% and then turned it off and it works flawlessly! :T

Denon 4520ci, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, (4) Klipsch HIPs, (2) Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, (3) Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000us SeymourAV 180 (195" diagonal) scope screen, Yamaha P7000s (for the subs), (2) Yamaha P2500s amps for the front (3) bass bins.
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post #45 of 123 Old 06-21-2014, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by J_P_A 

It sounds like you have this well thought out. That's the best way to start! I didn't see mention of an HVAC return. Are you planning to connect a return into the central air?

Have you tested out your seating distances to see if they will be comfortable for you? Based on the popular seating charts for 2.35, 13' would be considered too close and 20' is getting close to too far. Personally, I like to sit closer than the chart recommends at around 1x width (or closer for some movies), but everybody is different. Just want to make sure you've considered it.


We went to see Robocop the other night and we sat in the front 1/3 of the theater (which is closer than I normally do and I was happy with the picture (I actually still wanted the picture bigger.

I punched in my room calculations into the Theater Calculator v4.0...
Screen width 168"
Distance to front row 13'
Distance to 2nd row 19'

I came up with this...

1st row 56.6 degrees
Specs suggested
Shortest Recommended Viewing Distance based on Field-of-View being too wide: This distance is based on the peripheral vision field-of-view of the human eye. The average field-of-view width for the human eye is 140 degrees. The rule is that if the viewer sits any closer than this distance to the screen and looks at one side of the screen, they will not be able to see the other side of the screen with their peripheral vision. This equates to a 70-degree field-of-view when the person is looking at the center of the screen.


2nd row 40.4 degrees
Specs suggested
SMPTE minimum should be at least 30 degrees at the maximum distance while THX spec is 26 degrees or more

So I think I will be ok... We will see. Luckily I am making the whole wall a AT screen and the screen size can be as small as I want it to be or as big as the wall.
Holy Snikkies! 168" wide screen at 13 ft? Wow!

Brightness as bulb ages and pixilation may be an issue.......

I sit 12.5 ft from 12ft screen and find it perfect. Close to 1.0........

JPA once again posting sound questions to consider..........
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post #46 of 123 Old 06-21-2014, 11:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post
Holy Snikkies! 168" wide screen at 13 ft? Wow!

Brightness as bulb ages and pixilation may be an issue.......

I sit 12.5 ft from 12ft screen and find it perfect. Close to 1.0........

JPA once again posting sound questions to consider..........
I realise that I may not be able to go to the max on the screen with my current projector but I figure when I am able to upgrade to a projector that can I will not have to change my screen. We did a test sit of the screen size and it is within my field of view and looks like it will work when I get a projector that can do it with 20fl (to account for some adjustments or age of bulb).

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post #47 of 123 Old 06-21-2014, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
I realise that I may not be able to go to the max on the screen with my current projector but I figure when I am able to upgrade to a projector that can I will not have to change my screen. We did a test sit of the screen size and it is within my field of view and looks like it will work when I get a projector that can do it with 20fl (to account for some adjustments or age of bulb).
To get 20 fl on a screen that size, you are most definitely looking at 3 chip DLP. Though my projector is not a light cannon, on a 12 ft wide screen I get close to 20 fl on high lamp on new bulb. FWIW, I run in low lamp and am at 14-15 fl after 800 hours and am fine.

20 fl seems like a lofty goal on a screen that size.......
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post #48 of 123 Old 06-21-2014, 11:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post
To get 20 fl on a screen that size, you are most definitely looking at 3 chip DLP. Though my projector is not a light cannon, on a 12 ft wide screen I get close to 20 fl on high lamp on new bulb. FWIW, I run in low lamp and am at 14-15 fl after 800 hours and am fine.

20 fl seems like a lofty goal on a screen that size.......
If I have to down the road... I might go with a business projector. I saw someone was using a 5000 ANSI Lumen projector in a dedicated light controlled theater and they were fine with the picture... If I had seen this before I bought my ae8000, I could have gotten it for almost the same price.

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post #49 of 123 Old 06-21-2014, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
If I have to down the road... I might go with a business projector. I saw someone was using a 5000 ANSI Lumen projector in a dedicated light controlled theater and they were fine with the picture... If I had seen this before I bought my ae8000, I could have gotten it for almost the same price.
Do you recall the projector? 5000 ANSI lumen would fall into the light canon category!
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post #50 of 123 Old 06-21-2014, 12:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Do you recall the projector? 5000 ANSI lumen would fall into the light canon category!
I will have to see if I can find it... I want to say it was an Optoma. I remember someone showing it in a customers home... It was just in the last couple of weeks I believe on this forum.

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post #51 of 123 Old 06-21-2014, 12:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Here it is... http://www.optomausa.com/products/detail/EH505

If you go here you can see some posts about it... Maths for calculating screen brightness. 40fl with the short throw lense and 15' wide screen.

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post #52 of 123 Old 06-21-2014, 02:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Should I mount my heights directly over the left and right mains... Or would I be better off moving them to the front corners (still up next to the ceiling) with the woofers in the corners (speakers will be mounted on their sides due to space)? We a re mounting them Sunday. I read somewhere that someone put them to the sides and they sounded better than directly over the mains.

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post #53 of 123 Old 06-21-2014, 04:28 PM
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Are you planning to have the PJ calibrated? That's where you lose a lot of lumens, and I think that causes some consternation with some people when you start talking about lighting a large screen. I'm not point a finger at you Doublewing. There are some on the boards that will have a seizure if you start talking about displays that are not properly calibrated.

As an example, I'm planning to go with an Epson 5020 or 6020, and that PJ has an uncalibrated, brightest measured output of 1890 lumens. Assuming you want to project a 16:9 image that is as large as possible (height limited), then on a brand new bulb, that will project a 170"x96" image at about 21 F.L. assuming you find the best location with regard to zoom. After a 25% loss you'll be at around 16 F.L. I think the AE8000 is pretty similar.

I also found someone that did a "good enough" calibration on that PJ, and it measured at 1706 which puts you at 19 F.L. and 14 F.L. respectively for the same 170" x 96" screen. Unfortunately, completely calibrated the lumens drop to 700 for a PJ that is rated 2400. Clearly, after calibration, that PJ is not going to be bright enough.

That, of course, is the rub. I personally don't notice a display that is not calibrated unless it's just atrocious. So I'm happy to turn my displays up to the "Scorched Retina" setting, and not worry over the reds being over saturated. That's just a personal preference, and if it has the lumens to burn, then I'll definitely tweak the calibration. I understand a lot of people suffer from arrhythmia when the image is over saturated or otherwise miscalibrated. That's the tradeoff. If you want to project a screen that size, then it's either be happy with an image that is not perfectly calibrated or is too dim, or spend the big dollars on a high end PJ.

So, just pick what makes you happy.
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Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

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post #54 of 123 Old 06-21-2014, 05:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post
Are you planning to have the PJ calibrated? That's where you lose a lot of lumens, and I think that causes some consternation with some people when you start talking about lighting a large screen. I'm not point a finger at you Doublewing. There are some on the boards that will have a seizure if you start talking about displays that are not properly calibrated.

As an example, I'm planning to go with an Epson 5020 or 6020, and that PJ has an uncalibrated, brightest measured output of 1890 lumens. Assuming you want to project a 16:9 image that is as large as possible (height limited), then on a brand new bulb, that will project a 170"x96" image at about 21 F.L. assuming you find the best location with regard to zoom. After a 25% loss you'll be at around 16 F.L. I think the AE8000 is pretty similar.

I also found someone that did a "good enough" calibration on that PJ, and it measured at 1706 which puts you at 19 F.L. and 14 F.L. respectively for the same 170" x 96" screen. Unfortunately, completely calibrated the lumens drop to 700 for a PJ that is rated 2400. Clearly, after calibration, that PJ is not going to be bright enough.

That, of course, is the rub. I personally don't notice a display that is not calibrated unless it's just atrocious. So I'm happy to turn my displays up to the "Scorched Retina" setting, and not worry over the reds being over saturated. That's just a personal preference, and if it has the lumens to burn, then I'll definitely tweak the calibration. I understand a lot of people suffer from arrhythmia when the image is over saturated or otherwise miscalibrated. That's the tradeoff. If you want to project a screen that size, then it's either be happy with an image that is not perfectly calibrated or is too dim, or spend the big dollars on a high end PJ.

So, just pick what makes you happy.
Thanks for the info...
I think I will just try and tune it the best that I can without a full on calibration. When I end up getting a lighthouse for a projector down the road I will take the next step and get a full on calibration... For now I just want to get it up and running and looking pretty good. I just can't afford at this time to get one that will do 100% of what I want and be calibrated too. I will see how big I can get the image and have it look good to me for now, and then matt it to size.

Denon 4520ci, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, (4) Klipsch HIPs, (2) Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, (3) Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000us SeymourAV 180 (195" diagonal) scope screen, Yamaha P7000s (for the subs), (2) Yamaha P2500s amps for the front (3) bass bins.
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post #55 of 123 Old 06-21-2014, 08:32 PM
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That's the approach I'm planning to take!
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Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #56 of 123 Old 06-22-2014, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
I am curious about your planned Screen size. My vague understanding is for a screen that size, you need to spend A LOT of money on a projector, and things like the Panasonic ae8000 (or a JVC DLA-49/ 57/67) aren't bright enough for that image size.

I was kind of thinking doing a 12' Wide x 61" tall screen, but was told that even in a totally light controlled room, these projectors aren't going to work if using an Acoustically Transparent Screen, that has limited gain options.

What have you heard/ what are your thoughts? I wondered if that is just for 'absolute optimal viewing' and how quickly the image starts to look worse.

Kevin
not to worry the AE 8000 lights up my 126"x65" screen no issue
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post #57 of 123 Old 06-22-2014, 10:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Today we got the screen in position, and got the first coat of paint on 3 walls and the ceiling. The La Scala bass biins will be raised up to match the center channel.


2nd row MLP.





Denon 4520ci, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, (4) Klipsch HIPs, (2) Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, (3) Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000us SeymourAV 180 (195" diagonal) scope screen, Yamaha P7000s (for the subs), (2) Yamaha P2500s amps for the front (3) bass bins.

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post #58 of 123 Old 06-24-2014, 10:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Yesterday I got the LED rope lighting up (I still need to get the end caps so I can trim it). Once I get the "T", 90 degree, and end caps I will work on the LEDs around the front screen. When the carpet is installed I will finish the last 3 zones of LED rope lights.
The LEDs look much better in person (these are taken with my Samsung Galaxy Note).

100%


100%


50%


5%
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Denon 4520ci, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, (4) Klipsch HIPs, (2) Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, (3) Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000us SeymourAV 180 (195" diagonal) scope screen, Yamaha P7000s (for the subs), (2) Yamaha P2500s amps for the front (3) bass bins.
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post #59 of 123 Old 07-01-2014, 12:24 PM - Thread Starter
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I def did not need a hot weather week now.... I just got all the insulation we have stuffed in the stage (I need one more bag to finish it off). Carpet will be installed in the morning, so today will be getting the room ready for the carpet guys. Room is completely painted black except for behind the screen, and the entrance hallway. Hopefully we will be moving equipment in after this coming weekend and start tuning the room.

Denon 4520ci, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, (4) Klipsch HIPs, (2) Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, (3) Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000us SeymourAV 180 (195" diagonal) scope screen, Yamaha P7000s (for the subs), (2) Yamaha P2500s amps for the front (3) bass bins.
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post #60 of 123 Old 07-04-2014, 08:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Today we got the garage door wall almost done... We need 2 more sheets of drywall to complete the walls. We decided since we had extra hat channel and clips that we would go the extra mile and use them on that wall... It was either that or 4 layers of OSB, GG, and drywall. So we did the clips, OSB, GG, and dw. We also got the front height speakers mounted and aimed.

Saturday we hope to get the wall finished, ceiling finished (only 4' x 19' behind the header), carpet the stage, 1/4 pie bass bins built for the LCR, and maybe mount the screen to the frame. Sunday we hope to have at least one of the DDs completed and installed, all the equipment in the room, projector hung, and recliners in place, with the room ready for hooking up everything..

Denon 4520ci, (3) JBL 2360As/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, MiniDSP 2x4s, (4) Klipsch HIPs, (2) Klipsch KP3002s, PS3, XBox 360, (3) Intel NUCs, Monoprice Redmere, Monster HTPS7000, 2 SUPER SPUD subs, Panasonic AE8000us SeymourAV 180 (195" diagonal) scope screen, Yamaha P7000s (for the subs), (2) Yamaha P2500s amps for the front (3) bass bins.
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Denon Avr 4520ci Receiver , Jbl , Klipsch , panasonic ae8000 , seymourav
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