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post #31 of 131 Old 06-25-2014, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
Thanks, I can't believe they have made it so confusing, in fact the update is pretty crappy in general I think....will give it a go

Edit...just tried one picture and it was like pulling teeth! Surely the mods can't think this upload process is a good idea
It's not a new system it's old!

Three to four years ago AVS Forum used vbulletin.....same system you are using now.
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post #32 of 131 Old 06-29-2014, 06:29 AM - Thread Starter
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I used to use imageshack for hosting pics but just logged in after not using it for a couple of years only to find they now charge to upload....so that is another option out the window
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post #33 of 131 Old 06-29-2014, 10:31 PM
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Try Photobucket for hosting pictures.

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post #34 of 131 Old 06-30-2014, 09:29 PM - Thread Starter
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So here goes, via photo bucket , thanks for the idea....

Initial framing of the floor area

Last edited by Yukichon; 06-30-2014 at 09:36 PM.
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post #35 of 131 Old 06-30-2014, 09:35 PM - Thread Starter
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You can make out the lower area quite easily here

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post #36 of 131 Old 07-02-2014, 06:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is a shot of one of the low voltage step lights electric rough in


As you can see it's about a 5-6 inch step down into the seating area
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post #37 of 131 Old 07-06-2014, 06:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Been a slow week. I am getting small bits done in between the main remodel on the whole house. This week we managed to get the plumbing, heating and electrical rough in done.


We then put in the main support rafter for the walk-in closet upstairs. This weighed in excess of 350lbs, and was a VERY snug fit. It was installed the old fashioned way, with a pulley from the colonial days, some ropes, blood and sweat!


I then set about insulating the entire floor area with the insulation that came out of the ceiling that had been ripped out, only had to go to Lowes for a couple of more packages, it's good to recycle where possible. I even packed out the adjacent floors for the pantry, walk in and half bath....


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post #38 of 131 Old 07-06-2014, 06:29 AM - Thread Starter
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We then put in the 3/4" OSB flooring. It feels pretty solid, so do I really need to double it up?




Also, another question.....I'm probably going for the JVC RS4910U and was wondering how far back my PJ placement should be. I'm thinking of 140" 2.35:1 screen. And whilst the ceiling is open i want to make sure I have dome good securing points between the rafters.

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post #39 of 131 Old 07-06-2014, 12:55 PM
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I didn't double up the OSB on my flooring and it's solid as can be.

RE: projector placement and bracing, I'd put breaching in down the entire middle of the theater. This gives you options down the road.
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post #40 of 131 Old 07-06-2014, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhendriksen View Post
I didn't double up the OSB on my flooring and it's solid as can be.

RE: projector placement and bracing, I'd put breaching in down the entire middle of the theater. This gives you options down the road.
Those were my sentiments, better to be safe than sorry I suppose....the floor does feel solid but it seems for soundproofing some people go two layers with GG
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post #41 of 131 Old 07-06-2014, 08:30 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm currently thinking about speakers and subs, especially the size of the subs. I'm going for a clean AT screen with a framed area for the speakers behind the screen. The issue I'm having is the depth of most subs, especially the 18" beasts. So as a compromise, I'm thinking of this SVS duo http://www.svsound.com/subwoofers/du...0#.U7oFBGK9KSM or will it be best to have the twin subs outside in the the theater? For speakers I'm either going with SEOS DIY speakers or this 7.0 HSU package http://hsuresearch.com/products/speakerpkg.html
Any input greatly appreciated as usual
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post #42 of 131 Old 07-06-2014, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
We then put in the 3/4" OSB flooring. It feels pretty solid, so do I really need to double it up?




Also, another question.....I'm probably going for the JVC RS4910U and was wondering how far back my PJ placement should be. I'm thinking of 140" 2.35:1 screen. And whilst the ceiling is open i want to make sure I have dome good securing points between the rafters.
I used 3 sheets of 3/4 AC plywood sandwiched with green glue. Joist are 16OC rather that 24.......underneath riser is 1-1/8 plywood Serenity Mat and another 2 sheets of 3/4 AC sandwiched with green glue......

Does the floor move YES! When four sealed 18" sealed subs move air, whole room becomes a trampoline! And I love it!

On another note......JVC on that sized screen you'll be going through bulbs every 1000 hrs. People do use that sized screen with JVC's, but from my experience it won't take long wanting more brightness IMHO.
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post #43 of 131 Old 07-06-2014, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
I'm currently thinking about speakers and subs, especially the size of the subs. I'm going for a clean AT screen with a framed area for the speakers behind the screen. The issue I'm having is the depth of most subs, especially the 18" beasts. So as a compromise, I'm thinking of this SVS duo http://www.svsound.com/subwoofers/du...0#.U7oFBGK9KSM or will it be best to have the twin subs outside in the the theater? For speakers I'm either going with SEOS DIY speakers or this 7.0 HSU package http://hsuresearch.com/products/speakerpkg.html
Any input greatly appreciated as usual
Forget commercial subs! Build your own, especially if you're considering building your speakers. A lot less $ with much greater performance. You can build quads for as much as you're wiling to pay for ID subs. My four UXL's were about $1000 each when I was done but you could do so much better $ wise by being frugal on amp, accessories etc.

I paid $3000 for a JTR S2......sold it and built my own. Once again, I received better performance for a lot less money! Take the plunge......
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post #44 of 131 Old 07-07-2014, 09:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Forget commercial subs! Build your own, especially if you're considering building your speakers. A lot less $ with much greater performance. You can build quads for as much as you're wiling to pay for ID subs. My four UXL's were about $1000 each when I was done but you could do so much better $ wise by being frugal on amp, accessories etc.

I paid $3000 for a JTR S2......sold it and built my own. Once again, I received better performance for a lot less money! Take the plunge......
I am really tempted, but I want the theater to be a family friendly zone, this I think 2 subs will be plenty. I've been toying with either 2 Martycubes or 2 Dayton Audio 18's, but if I'm honest, I'm doubting my ability to get them right and I've heard great things about the SVS subs. As for price, they are similar once I have bought all the connectors, wiring, amps etc...
What DIY speakers did you go for in the end?
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post #45 of 131 Old 07-07-2014, 11:45 PM
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Quote:
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I am really tempted, but I want the theater to be a family friendly zone, this I think 2 subs will be plenty. I've been toying with either 2 Martycubes or 2 Dayton Audio 18's, but if I'm honest, I'm doubting my ability to get them right and I've heard great things about the SVS subs. As for price, they are similar once I have bought all the connectors, wiring, amps etc...
What DIY speakers did you go for in the end?
My room uses 3 Triad Gold LCR's and 6 Triad Silver LCR's for surrounds. DIY subs is one thing.,.......building speaker with inherent crossover design is another.

Building subs is easy.......DIYsoundgroup.com flat packs, powerful amp.....Speakon connects and you're on your way to incredible bass which no ID or commercial offerings can match.
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post #46 of 131 Old 07-08-2014, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukichon View Post
We then put in the 3/4" OSB flooring. It feels pretty solid, so do I really need to double it up?

Also, another question.....I'm probably going for the JVC RS4910U and was wondering how far back my PJ placement should be. I'm thinking of 140" 2.35:1 screen. And whilst the ceiling is open i want to make sure I have dome good securing points between the rafters.
Somewhere I read that the 2 layers of 3/4" OSB has a lot more to do with Sound & Reverberations, than it does with Structural integrity.

In terms of PJ Placement... Mike at AV Science gave me the following information:

130" Wide 2:35:1 Screen is largest he would recommend for the 'best' picture if using an Acoustically Transparent Screen (which limits Screen Gain some and causes some light loss). Screen Lens to Screen 15' back, Screen Post Center 15'9" from Screen. On high lamp this is 17 foot lamberts, in a totally light controlled room - target is 12-16 foot lamberts.

144" Wide 2.35:1 Screen - larger than recommended.... but 16'6" from Lens to Screen, and 17'3" for Post center to Screen. This would be 14.1 foot lamberts for a brand new bulb. As Doublewing states though, this will cause more frequent bulb replacement or degraded quality with reduced light output.

I didn't ask for 140" wide, but IF (and I don't know this) the above relationships are linear, then the projector lens would be at 16'1" for that size screen. If you are thinking non acoustically transparent, that gives you more latitude on the screen size. I might call Mike Garrett at AV Science and talk with him about it, and they of course sell the projectors as well.
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post #47 of 131 Old 07-08-2014, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Somewhere I read that the 2 layers of 3/4" OSB has a lot more to do with Sound & Reverberations, than it does with Structural integrity.

In terms of PJ Placement... Mike at AV Science gave me the following information:

130" Wide 2:35:1 Screen is largest he would recommend for the 'best' picture if using an Acoustically Transparent Screen (which limits Screen Gain some and causes some light loss). Screen Lens to Screen 15' back, Screen Post Center 15'9" from Screen. On high lamp this is 17 foot lamberts, in a totally light controlled room - target is 12-16 foot lamberts.

144" Wide 2.35:1 Screen - larger than recommended.... but 16'6" from Lens to Screen, and 17'3" for Post center to Screen. This would be 14.1 foot lamberts for a brand new bulb. As Doublewing states though, this will cause more frequent bulb replacement or degraded quality with reduced light output.

I didn't ask for 140" wide, but IF (and I don't know this) the above relationships are linear, then the projector lens would be at 16'1" for that size screen. If you are thinking non acoustically transparent, that gives you more latitude on the screen size. I might call Mike Garrett at AV Science and talk with him about it, and they of course sell the projectors as well.
I wasn't aware of the issue with brightness on the JVC and the related screen size. Plus when I sat in the position I felt the screen would be to big so maybe just go with the 130"....I don't expect to finish the theater until at least October so maybe by then the will be an alternative PJ
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post #48 of 131 Old 07-08-2014, 08:48 PM
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I wasn't aware of the issue with brightness on the JVC and the related screen size. Plus when I sat in the position I felt the screen would be to big so maybe just go with the 130"....I don't expect to finish the theater until at least October so maybe by then the will be an alternative PJ
Wait until after CEDIA is over in September when new models are identified.......besides, you may get pre-order pricing. Without a doubt, contact Mike at AVS Sales.........believe me, he will save you a ton of $ along with helping identify best product for your application.

If you want more info pm me and I'll give you low down on my experience with AVS Sales.
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post #49 of 131 Old 07-08-2014, 09:13 PM - Thread Starter
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I have spoken with Mike over email and found him very helpful. I believe CEDIA is in Denver which is only 45 min from me so definitely going.
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post #50 of 131 Old 07-09-2014, 04:31 AM
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Quote:
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I wasn't aware of the issue with brightness on the JVC and the related screen size. Plus when I sat in the position I felt the screen would be to big so maybe just go with the 130"....I don't expect to finish the theater until at least October so maybe by then the will be an alternative PJ
Just to be clear, I believe the Brightness issue is with most any projector in that price range or below. My current plan is to still go with the JVC RS4910, so, my personal perspective based on the reviews I have read, is that it is still the best projector for the money, for my needs (including automated zoom lens for Constant Image Height, i.e., 2.35:1 and 16:9, etc)).

Kevin
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post #51 of 131 Old 07-09-2014, 07:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Small update......yesterday we marked out the centre for PJ placement and fitted 3/4 OSB with 2x4 supports on between the rafters all the way so we can install PJ at any point


We then started to build the false wall to house the LCR and subs behind the screen. We could only get away with 22" depth so this will lead the sub size.
Q: what height should I place the LCR's at?

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post #52 of 131 Old 07-09-2014, 07:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Unsure what to do with the screen. Have it sat on the wall or recess it so it's sits flush with the wall?
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post #53 of 131 Old 07-09-2014, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
Just to be clear, I believe the Brightness issue is with most any projector in that price range or below. My current plan is to still go with the JVC RS4910, so, my personal perspective based on the reviews I have read, is that it is still the best projector for the money, for my needs (including automated zoom lens for Constant Image Height, i.e., 2.35:1 and 16:9, etc)).

Kevin
Pick your poison......

Bigger screen added brightness Sony 55 or predecessor.

Contrast/Blacks JVC can't be beat........

I'd still wait until after CEDIA.
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post #54 of 131 Old 07-10-2014, 05:19 AM
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Pick your poison......

I'd still wait until after CEDIA.
So, CEDIA is in September... if they introduce new projectors, when do they normally come out... Start of 2015, or like cell phones, 2 weeks after the show? (or, does it vary by manufacturer?)
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Quote:
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Q: what height should I place the LCR's at?
From what I understand, for front LCR speakers, Tweeters should be at "Ear Height", with the LCR all being at the same height ideally.

Of course, if you have a riser, you then either choose to optimize one row and sub-optimize the other by say the 12" riser height.. or sub-optimize 'both' by positioning in between, so, each only sub-optimized by 6".

This is just one web-site that talks speaker placement..
http://www.theater-experience-at-hom...placement.html
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post #56 of 131 Old 07-10-2014, 05:32 AM
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Pick your poison......

Bigger screen added brightness Sony 55 or predecessor.
I just looked at the Sony 55, looks like it only has a Manual Zoom, and I really want the Automated Zoom for my planned Constant Image Height usage :-(
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post #57 of 131 Old 07-10-2014, 09:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
From what I understand, for front LCR speakers, Tweeters should be at "Ear Height", with the LCR all being at the same height ideally.

Of course, if you have a riser, you then either choose to optimize one row and sub-optimize the other by say the 12" riser height.. or sub-optimize 'both' by positioning in between, so, each only sub-optimized by 6".

This is just one web-site that talks speaker placement..
http://www.theater-experience-at-hom...placement.html
Thanks for the link, it's a good read......I ain't be putting any seating on the raised area for now so will go with placement of the sectional
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post #58 of 131 Old 07-11-2014, 07:12 AM
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Unsure what to do with the screen. Have it sat on the wall or recess it so it's sits flush with the wall?
These work well

http://www.hooksandlattice.com/hangi...pEUaAmDC8P8HAQ

Its what I used to hang my 135" Screen


HT: PJ: ?? , Screen: ??,B&W 684s, 685s, HTM62 / DIY SI 18" / port tuned- 17hz
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post #59 of 131 Old 07-11-2014, 02:50 PM - Thread Starter
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These work well

http://www.hooksandlattice.com/hangi...pEUaAmDC8P8HAQ

Its what I used to hang my 135" Screen

Thanks for the tip, do you have an image of the profile?
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post #60 of 131 Old 07-11-2014, 02:52 PM - Thread Starter
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I have decided with the help a while back from BigmouthinDC to put my AV rack at the back next to a desk I'm installing. So the next question I have is, what dimensions do I want the framing to be?
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