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post #31 of 41 Old 03-16-2014, 06:19 PM
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No stage, just a screen and black wall, just imagine the speakers are behind the screen instead of in front.

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post #32 of 41 Old 03-19-2014, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEEEEEEEZY 
As far as the screen wall goes.  I saw one fella that made a theater that had a solid black wall from side to side with the only the screen on it.  I really liked the look of that as opposed to putting up columns on the sides and a big curving stage out front.  I game a lot, so likely the aspect ratio will need to be 16:9 as opposed to 2.35:1

 I'm liking the idea of wall to wall riser.

I game a fair bit as well in addition to a lot of football watching. You can just make some masking panels for a 2.35 screen and have the best of both.

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post #33 of 41 Old 03-20-2014, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEEEEEEEZY View Post

The most up to date plan.  Top down view.


As far as the screen wall goes.  I saw one fella that made a theater that had a solid black wall from side to side with the only the screen on it.  I really liked the look of that as opposed to putting up columns on the sides and a big curving stage out front.  I game a lot, so likely the aspect ratio will need to be 16:9 as opposed to 2.35:1

 I'm liking the idea of wall to wall riser.
Another small suggestion: Go with 24" of space behind your screen if you can fit everything. 21' for 2 rows will be tight if you want the back row to have some separation from the back wall.

Also, your budget should allow you to build an incredible room. How much of a DIY'er are you?
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post #34 of 41 Old 03-20-2014, 09:31 AM - Thread Starter
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I agree that I'd like the screen wall to be only as big as I need it, but I just dont want to make it too small to upgrade speakers in the future.  Right now the largest part of the setup is the subwoofer (PB-2000) which is listed as being 25 inches in depth.  Now, It has a front sided port, so I don't know if that means I should make the screen wall deeper or turn the subwoofers sideways.

 

As to the DIY question. I like to think I am a DIY'er.  I know when I am in over my head.  i.e. someone will definitely be contracted to close or move doors.  Otherwise.  I'd like to do as much of this as I can.

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post #35 of 41 Old 03-20-2014, 11:20 AM
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If you are worried about seating space my room is approx 13 X 20 and I have two rows of seating. My entrance is at the back so I had to have a walkway behind the seats to have access to my theater. I just moved my front row to about 10 feet from the screen and the rear row is about 17 feet so you should have plenty of wiggle room for the front and back rows considering your entrance is on the side. If you can I highly suggest you beg, borrow, steal a PJ prior to settling on a screen size. You might be surprised at what screen size you are comfortable with. Is the 21 feet from the false wall back or the total length of the room?

Welcome to this maddening journey we call HT, it is quite the ride for sure.

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post #36 of 41 Old 03-20-2014, 11:30 AM - Thread Starter
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21 ft is total at room length.

What is pj? A projector?
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post #37 of 41 Old 03-20-2014, 02:55 PM
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PJ is short for Projector on AVS.

The MacBeth Theater (flood resilient build)
 

Play like a Raven

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post #38 of 41 Old 03-20-2014, 03:39 PM
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If 21ft total and you are loosing 2 1/2 feet do to the false wall and AT (acoustically transparent) setup then I would agree that two rows will be tight, doable yes, you just might have to place the front row a little closer than you may have anticipated. Again depending on where you go with screen size that could be a non-issue or a big issue.

Sorry, sometimes I forget that not everyone is clued in on all the short hand around here so I appreciate the translation d1stc2nd! biggrin.gif

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post #39 of 41 Old 03-20-2014, 06:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, since we are on the topic of screens, what size is appropriate for a room of those dimensions.  Supposing I have the "optimal" setup for chair distances and I elect to go with a 2.35:1 screen.  I'm not asking for crystal ball prediction, but what size have others used in similar rooms.

 

And with that said, knowing the room has 9.5 foot ceilings.  How high should the riser be? 12inch, 8 inch, higher than 12?  What makes more sense in a room that has higher ceilings.  I only ask because I have noticed on many of the rooms that have 7.5 foot ceilings folks have elected to go with 8 or 12 inch risers, I didn't know if it would make sense to go higher than that.  

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post #40 of 41 Old 03-20-2014, 06:53 PM
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I know there are some screen size calculators and there are also guides for optimal viewing cones, suggested viewing distances yadda, yadda, yadda,......while those can be helpful and maybe someone can even post a link or two for you I still think the best way is trial and error. Having said that sometimes that is not practical or feasible. I would say that in your space I would start looking at 106" diagonal 16:9 to start. I sit 10 feet away from 114" diagonal 16:9 and I love it. I also am not bothered by the black bars when I watch 2:35/1 material either.

There is also a riser height calculator here on the forum just do a search and it should come up. The reason why people have different height risers is for many different reasons. In my case I could not go any higher do to ceiling clearance. Others have higher risers to get the second row above head height of the first when the second row is reclining and the first row is non reclining. So there are many scenarios on why there are different height risers and yes there some here that have 15" risers and taller to get the viewing angles right.

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post #41 of 41 Old 08-08-2014, 07:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Long time, no see!

We finally got moved into the house. Unfortunately, the budget for the theater is on hold until we get our driveway repaved and a garage built. Until then, I have to make due with what is already set up in the house.

I had some flat paint and black material to make a makeshift screen on the wall for $0 of input. I was able to cover the back windows for now with a large Black Muslin if have for taking photographs (I don't use the black much.)

Unfortunately, the fella who moved out of here must have used a moving company to disconnect his speakers. They had cut the wires almost completely down to the dry wall, and I had to do some splicing to make it work.


Its passable, but it really makes me want to get started. I spoke with the fella who is making our garage about the ideas tossed around here for the room in the end, and he feels it is quite doable, and with his "guys" shouldn't take too long.


Hopefully I will have updates before tooooooo long.
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