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post #61 of 74 Old 06-16-2014, 03:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DougUSMC View Post
Wow, congrats, it's coming along GREAT!!

I dig your rack, and I'm thinking I'll need something similar for my own, can you give me a link for it?

Thanks!
Thanks DougUSMC, the rack was ordered from Salamander Designs. It's configured from their Synergy line.

http://www.salamanderdesigns.com/pro...6f56beb9f4?f=m

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post #62 of 74 Old 06-16-2014, 03:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post
Your combination of the Epson UB projector, the Stewart Gray screen and your dark wall and ceiling color is a recipe for serious contrast and inky blacks. Stunning picture indeed. The room is looking great, and once you install the movie posters to add some art to the monochrome back ground it should really come together. Glad you are happy with the initial results.
Thanks David. It's really coming together nicely now. Still have a bit of stuff for the electrician to complete .. brown dimmers and wallplates plus the kick lights. Along with a bit of touch up painting, some room treatments, movie posters and I think I'll be pretty much there.

One thing that completely went unplanned was the power source for the powered recliners .. doh!
I don't want extension cords strung across the floor, so I think I will turn the centre kick light into an electrical outlet instead of a light. That still leaves 4 kick lights in the riser and gives me a well concealed
outlet for the front 3 theater seats anyway. Not sure if I can do a floor outlet for the back 3 seats, the electrician is going to see what he can do.

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post #63 of 74 Old 06-18-2014, 05:00 PM - Thread Starter
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FINISHING TOUCHES

The kick lights were wired up today and the electrician converted the middle one to a receptacle for powering the front row of seats. I like the subtle lighting on the steps, enough to see the step but not distracting.
Vent grills in the walls are all painted the same colour as the room and the inside doors got another coat.
Installed some posters in the lightboxes ... apologies for the poor photos, they really suck .. . in reality they turned out very nice. I'll try to get some better photos.

Kick lights - room lights on


Kick lights - room lights off












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post #64 of 74 Old 06-19-2014, 05:29 AM
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Wow, really cool, and I like your color combos!

How is everything switched? Is it all on the same panel? Is it remoted?? (Am I allowed to make up my own words for the english language???)

I'm a huge fan of the carpet, and it brings up another question the wife and i were discussing: We're also going to be re-carpeting the entire basement, and I'm trying to decide if we "need" to have different carpet for the movie room? As I understand, it's more of an aesthetic choice, but how much impact does carpet color have from the perspective of lighting and good projector results?
(Sorry, still trying to learn here, appologies for not using proper industry jargon...)
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post #65 of 74 Old 06-19-2014, 09:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DougUSMC View Post
Wow, really cool, and I like your color combos!

How is everything switched? Is it all on the same panel? Is it remoted?? (Am I allowed to make up my own words for the english language???)

I'm a huge fan of the carpet, and it brings up another question the wife and i were discussing: We're also going to be re-carpeting the entire basement, and I'm trying to decide if we "need" to have different carpet for the movie room? As I understand, it's more of an aesthetic choice, but how much impact does carpet color have from the perspective of lighting and good projector results?
(Sorry, still trying to learn here, appologies for not using proper industry jargon...)
Thanks DougUSMC. We considered doing a different carpet in the theater room but ultimately decided to carry the same carpet throughout the entire basement. Probably a personal choice as it can work equally well either way imho.

I do want all the lighting remoted but for now all 4 movie lightboxes are on one switch, the riser kick lights are on one switch, and there are 2 banks of LED pot lights on dimmers. Right now I have a ProControl RF to IR controller which is capable of controlling any Zigbee compatible device. However, I'm really unhappy with the ProControl solution, there are several things that don't work properly and the store who sold it to me are the only ones who can program it. I have let them know that this is absurd and I want my money back for the control system. Something like the Logitech Harmony Ultimate perhaps. Any thoughts on that?

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post #66 of 74 Old 06-19-2014, 10:32 AM
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I'll give you my thoughts, but I'm probably the noobest noob on here!

I've been thinking about my own lighting solutions (combination of leds in a tray soffit, cans pointing down from soffet & in ceiling, riser lighting, and sconces), and trying to understand the various RF and IR solutions commercially available for switching. Your lighting looks great to me, so I was hoping you'd tackled some of that already.

As far as remotes, I've made some little progress there. I've had a few different Harmony remotes over the years, so programming them is nothing new. I decided I needed a "smarter" HT, so I'm trying to kick it to the next notch right now. I'm a IT geek by trade, so a HTPC is a no brainer. Networking is fun, and I have a WAN and multiple WiFi networks throughout the house. For my own solution I'd like to be able to control EVERYTHING (Same thing we do every night...) For my theater I want to control everything from one place, and have the HT be one component of the entire thing. I found iRule a couple of weeks ago, and I've been playing with it since.

I started with our family room system, which is simpler but still a nice playground. I picked up 2 IR to IP "gateways", and started messing around. I had a plasma, receiver, Blueray, Apple TV, cable, and iTunes working within 30 mins, and that includes installing the gateways and emitters, and getting the app configured and installed on an iPad. 5 more minutes, and my wife and I had it running on our iPhones. Next step is to throw on some other toys, such as a wireless thermostat, blind motors, and light switches. From there, HTPC and MoviePoster. Once I get all that down, I can start the switching build for the dedicated HT downstairs!! (for any/all updates, check out my dedicated HT thread)

Again, great stuff, and thanks for the info on the carpeting!
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post #67 of 74 Old 06-20-2014, 03:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Not happy with the above photos, so I took a few more. I think they look a bit better.











Looking from the theater room, you can see the bar that was part of this basement reno project.





And I picked up a Logitech Harmony Ultimate today $100 off at Best Buy ... Reg $349 for $249 Sale
It has the harmony hub, RF remote and 2 infrared emitters





I still need room treatments and figure out how to paint the speaker grills. The grills are tricky because they have grill cloth attached to the inside surface
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post #68 of 74 Old 06-20-2014, 04:03 PM
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Very nice indeed. Well done!
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post #69 of 74 Old 06-20-2014, 06:54 PM
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Regarding painting your in-wall speakers, that cloth on the inside of the speakers typically is held in place with a very light adhesive and you should be able to peel it out of the speaker grill with no problem.

I've probably painted close to 1000 of these in my life and I use the same process to get full coverage without blotchiness, streaking or closed holes where the paint has bridged the gap. Forget about painting these with a bristle or foam brush....it takes forever with all the coats and how dry your brush has to be for the application process....only to get a fair result. In other words, get yourself a HPLV sprayer with the fine point nozzle and dial back the flow pretty dramatically (it varies, depending on your spray gun). The spray should be light enough that it should almost instantly dry. Hang the grill about 3-4 feet off the ground, converting a paperclip (or similar) into a little hook and threading it through a single hole on the side of the speaker grill. This will allow you to shoot any side at any angle at a height that won't kill your back. I thin the paint with Flotrol (or similar), even if you have a gun that can take undiluted latex. Make sure you filter the paint with a Nylon paint filter when you fill your paint gun. Once you've dialed in your settings on the sprayer on a piece of cardboard, you are ready to paint. Keep the gun at least 10-14" away from the piece as you are spraying it. Just like spray paint, multiple light coats are FAR better than trying to do a couple of heavy coats. Vary your spray angle so you get the sides of the perforations and not just the face. So shoot lightly coming from the left, the right, the top and the bottom. You'll probably find you won't need to spray straight on. Coming from the back side will also help to fill the perforations with solid color without clogging.

I also like to keep a can of compressed air handy just in case the paint bridges one of the perforations. A slight, well-controlled stream of air is enough to break the paint and clear the perforation. CAUTION - DO NOT use a full-blast puff from the can of compressed air...you'll screw up the surrounding paint that hasn't dried yet if you are too aggressive. Trust me on this. It can be fixed by sanding it down after the paint dries, but then you have to go through the whole setup again and blend the job. No fun!

Hopefully this makes sense. I was in the car traveling for nearly 12 hours today with the wife and a screaming baby. Let me know if you have any questions.
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post #70 of 74 Old 06-20-2014, 08:16 PM
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Great looking theater!
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post #71 of 74 Old 06-22-2014, 05:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Regarding painting your in-wall speakers, that cloth on the inside of the speakers typically is held in place with a very light adhesive and you should be able to peel it out of the speaker grill with no problem.

I've probably painted close to 1000 of these in my life and I use the same process to get full coverage without blotchiness, streaking or closed holes where the paint has bridged the gap. Forget about painting these with a bristle or foam brush....it takes forever with all the coats and how dry your brush has to be for the application process....only to get a fair result. In other words, get yourself a HPLV sprayer with the fine point nozzle and dial back the flow pretty dramatically (it varies, depending on your spray gun). The spray should be light enough that it should almost instantly dry. Hang the grill about 3-4 feet off the ground, converting a paperclip (or similar) into a little hook and threading it through a single hole on the side of the speaker grill. This will allow you to shoot any side at any angle at a height that won't kill your back. I thin the paint with Flotrol (or similar), even if you have a gun that can take undiluted latex. Make sure you filter the paint with a Nylon paint filter when you fill your paint gun. Once you've dialed in your settings on the sprayer on a piece of cardboard, you are ready to paint. Keep the gun at least 10-14" away from the piece as you are spraying it. Just like spray paint, multiple light coats are FAR better than trying to do a couple of heavy coats. Vary your spray angle so you get the sides of the perforations and not just the face. So shoot lightly coming from the left, the right, the top and the bottom. You'll probably find you won't need to spray straight on. Coming from the back side will also help to fill the perforations with solid color without clogging.

I also like to keep a can of compressed air handy just in case the paint bridges one of the perforations. A slight, well-controlled stream of air is enough to break the paint and clear the perforation. CAUTION - DO NOT use a full-blast puff from the can of compressed air...you'll screw up the surrounding paint that hasn't dried yet if you are too aggressive. Trust me on this. It can be fixed by sanding it down after the paint dries, but then you have to go through the whole setup again and blend the job. No fun!

Hopefully this makes sense. I was in the car traveling for nearly 12 hours today with the wife and a screaming baby. Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks for the advice and insights TMcG. I like the idea of spray painting. I'll take a closer look at how well the grill cloth is attached and hopefully they won't tear or rip. Sounds like this is the only proper way to paint the grills to make them look good.

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post #72 of 74 Old 06-22-2014, 05:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Great looking theater!
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Very nice indeed. Well done!
Thanks guys, appreciate your kind comments.

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post #73 of 74 Old 07-03-2014, 04:18 AM
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Hey!
Been pretty quiet in here!
How's the theater treating you? Have you been able to enjoy it much yet? How did the program for the logitech go?
Since my theater has been on hold for carpet and furniture I have been watching a couple movies, I figured why not well I wait. I picked up a bunch of blurays from the Walmart $8 bin. Really enjoyed Live Free or Die Hard the sound was great.Thor: The Dark World sounded great too. If you ever want to test you your subs I find the Transformer movies are great for that as well. My next movie is Batman The dark knight. That one I grabbed on bluray for $6 at walmart, I can't even rent it that cheap on most online services.

Let us know how things are going, missing the updates! now that your system is usable I am sure any of the small things seem to get put on hold a bit. Its hard when you know you can sit down and watch a good movie instead of working.
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post #74 of 74 Old 07-03-2014, 07:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey!
Been pretty quiet in here!
How's the theater treating you? Have you been able to enjoy it much yet? How did the program for the logitech go?
Since my theater has been on hold for carpet and furniture I have been watching a couple movies, I figured why not well I wait. I picked up a bunch of blurays from the Walmart $8 bin. Really enjoyed Live Free or Die Hard the sound was great.Thor: The Dark World sounded great too. If you ever want to test you your subs I find the Transformer movies are great for that as well. My next movie is Batman The dark knight. That one I grabbed on bluray for $6 at walmart, I can't even rent it that cheap on most online services.

Let us know how things are going, missing the updates! now that your system is usable I am sure any of the small things seem to get put on hold a bit. Its hard when you know you can sit down and watch a good movie instead of working.
Hi Clay,

Yeah, things sort of came to a halt didn't they, haha. I still have a few things on the to do list, so not much to report until that happens. Oh I did add a popcorn machine

I need acoustic treatments and I've been looking at Acoustic Panels Canada, they look really promising, affordable and made right here in Ontario, just down the road in Milton. Seem like great guys too, they sent me a fabric swatch sample with all their colours and sent me photos of the mounting system.

Also need to paint the speaker grills ... the white just doesn't cut it. I need to find someone with an airbrush gun.

My wife and I have been watching a few movies now and the experience is just awesome! I'm not a big fan of 3D, but what the hell, my projector's 3D capable so we watched Gravity 3D on BluRay. It was incredible .. the soundtrack to that movie is impressive to say the least! And the panorama of those space shots on the big screen are breathtaking.

The remote .. hmm .. well .. initially I was thinking it was perfection but in the last couple of days the hub has decided that it doesn't want to do wifi anymore. Seems I'm not the only one out there with this problem. Otherwise, yeah it does everything. I need to figure out how or if I can program my receivers Zone 2 output to switch by IR. I have an email in to Cambridge Audio about it and they've had to forward to their software team. I have a pair of speakers outside the theater hooked up to my Zone 2 output so would be nice to be able to control that remotely.

But I am super happy with the theater. Keep us updated with yours when you get the carpet and furniture.

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