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post #1 of 74 Old 04-21-2014, 05:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Introduction

Like so many of you, I have dreamed of having a dedicated home theater room some day. Finally that day is here and I am in a position to be able to make my dream become a reality. The home theater is actually one part of a fairly large basement renovation project. As such, there are some factors that limit the scope of the theater, mainly budget and space. It is not going to be as elaborate as some I have seen on here, but it will be mine (and my wife's) and it's pretty exciting.

My local high end shop put together some suggested packages and we settled on a system that was in budget and should offer good value. I have to admit that, while I am familiar with all the brands chosen, I have seen/heard some but not all of the components.

The Room

The space is 12'6" W x 22'6" L x 7'8" H, not a huge room but decent enough to work with.
Plan calls for two rows of Palliser Pennsylvania 41953 theater seats.
The back half of the room will have an 8" riser for the second row of seats.
Roxul Safe n Sound insulation in all interior walls and doubled up in the ceiling.
5/8" drywall on all interior walls and ceiling (with resilient channel).

The Equipment

Projector - Epson 6030UB 3D
Screen - Stewart Cima 2110H Tiburon 110" Fixed Gray
Speakers - Totem Kin In-Wall
Sub - JL Audio E112
Receiver - Cambridge Audio 751R
Source - Cambridge Audio 752BD BluRay Player


Last edited by iRadiate; 06-14-2014 at 02:40 PM. Reason: Seating change
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post #2 of 74 Old 04-21-2014, 06:29 AM - Thread Starter
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BEFORE

 

The blank slate before construction starts. Theater going to the far right side of photo.

 

 

FRAMING

Here the framing is started on the outside wall

 

 

 

Framing around the ducts and beam

 

 

 

Framing the inside walls and theater doorway.

 

 

 

Inside walls are mostly framed.

 

 

 

Bulkhead and doorway inside the room.

 

 

 

Looking at the entrance to the Home Theater from the sitting area.

 


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post #3 of 74 Old 04-21-2014, 06:44 AM - Thread Starter
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RISER

 

The riser platform 12'6 from front wall. Constructed from 2x8 boards.

 

 

 

Riser platform as seen from front right side of theater.

 

 

 

Looking towards the front of the theater.

 

 

 

Another view (cold air return vent installed in back wall).

 

 

 

Kick lights wired in.

 

 

 

 

Plywood deck glued and screwed down.

 


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post #4 of 74 Old 04-21-2014, 06:59 AM - Thread Starter
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WIRING

 

Switch box for pot lights, riser kick lights, and movie poster lightboxes.

 

 

 

Outlets outside and back walls.

 

 

 

Outlets inside and back walls (for equipment rack).

 

 

 

Outlets wired for front of room.

 

 

 

LED pot lights being installed.

 


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post #5 of 74 Old 04-21-2014, 07:34 AM - Thread Starter
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EQUIPMENT PRE-WIRE

 

Totem Acoustic front left, front right, and center speakers pre-wired and framed in wall.

 

 

 

And this is the front wall as I envision it :):):)

 

LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01

 

 

 

Totem Acoustic right rear speaker pre-wired and framed in wall.

 

 

 

 

Totem Acoustic left rear speaker pre-wired and framed in wall.

 

 

 

 

Ceiling mount installed and pre-wired for Epson projector.

 

 

 

Wiring bundle for equipment rack.

 

 

 

Subwoofer feed.


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post #6 of 74 Old 04-21-2014, 07:55 AM - Thread Starter
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INSULATION

 

Roxul Safe n Sound insulation going into all interior walls. R12 & vapor barrier onto external wall.

 

 

 

 

 

More Roxul insulation in back wall, inside wall, and ceiling.

 

 

 

Doubled up insulation in ceiling.

 


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post #7 of 74 Old 04-21-2014, 08:01 AM
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Looks like you are well on your way. Could have used a few more inches in height, but all in all a decent sized room to work with.
I wonder why your high end retailer spec'd a screen designed to reduce the impact of ambient light when you are using it in a dedicated theater, which I presume will have good light control.
Believe it or not, 110" diagonal isn't a very large screen these days. Certainly more dramatic than your average flat panel, but a dedicated "home theater" deserves more.
Good luck with the build.

.
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post #8 of 74 Old 04-21-2014, 08:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks David. Funny you mentioned the gray screen rather than white. I questioned them on this as well and they still recommended going with the gray screen, the rational being that even a slight amount of ambient light will wash out the blacks. While the light will be very controllable, I think there may well be some ambient light from the kick lights, the equipment rack, or perhaps the popcorn machine. As far as sceen size goes, I'm okay with it. It's within my budget and I've lived with a 32" LCD tv for so long now, it will seem huge to me :-)

 

Appreciate your comments.


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post #9 of 74 Old 04-21-2014, 08:45 AM
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The Epson has a ton of light with reasonably accurate color in it's "Living Room" mode (I think it is called).
Should be no problem lighting that sized screen, even in grey.

.
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post #10 of 74 Old 04-21-2014, 04:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Finished off with the insulation today.

 

 

 

And resilient channel installed on the ceiling.

 


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post #11 of 74 Old 04-23-2014, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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DRYWALL

 

Okay, shut the furnace off ... here we go with the messy part ... 5/8" drywall all around.

 

Front screen wall and ceiling.

 

 

Left wall

 

 

Right wall

 

 

Rear wall and ceiling

 

 

Left wall and bulkhead

 

 

Right wall


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post #12 of 74 Old 04-23-2014, 07:57 PM
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Nice progress. Everything seems very neat and clean. Should be an awesome space for you when it is finished, which by the looks of things, will be much faster than most on here!
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post #13 of 74 Old 04-24-2014, 04:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Nabukicks, it is going really quickly, but that's because I'm paying a contractor to do the work, I'm not doing it myself. This is part of a much larger overall basement reno, which I really don't have the time to tackle myself .. or it really would never get done.

Appreciate your kind comments.


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post #14 of 74 Old 04-27-2014, 04:57 PM - Thread Starter
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MOVIE POSTER LIGHTBOXES

 

Nice Sunday afternoon so I decided to take the movie poster lightboxes out to the garage and paint them.

The original colour was black so I painted them to go with the colour scheme of the theater room.

 

 

The 27" x 40" lightboxes were purchased from River City Theaters and have 4 bulbs each.

http://www.movie-theater-lightboxes.com/27x40-satin-black-movie-theater-lightbox-4-27404.html

 

 

New colour is Benjamin Moore 2115-10 Appalachian Brown in Pearl

http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-ca/paint-color/appalachianbrown

 

 

Here are the four lightboxes before painting them

 

 

 

Here's the colour difference. New paint looks a little purplish but dries to a nice rich brown.

 

Before (right) and After (left)

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post #15 of 74 Old 05-03-2014, 04:40 PM - Thread Starter
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TAPING & MUDDING

 

Not much exciting change this week. It's been a messy week of taping and mudding the drywall.

I will be very glad when this stage is over and move on to the priming & painting.

 

 


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post #16 of 74 Old 05-03-2014, 09:00 PM
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Looking good! I am looking forward in seeing the room after your painting is done. With the past progress history, I am assuming you will have pictures up of it painted and trimmed by morning.
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post #17 of 74 Old 05-04-2014, 05:27 AM
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Looks amazing! I am curious, what did your contractor charge for doing the framing & drywall work? I have a similar space that is 27ft by 14ft by 8ft that is all concrete on each wall & floor. I want to put up a wall and have one side by a dedicated theater room and the other side by a dining area. The theater side will be 17ft by 14ft by 8ft.

I have to figure out a way to attach the Sheetrock to the concrete walls, and will most likely build a frame like you did so as to have an easy way to attach the Sheetrock. Only thing is that I am on a tight budget, and would like to do at least the framing myself, but, having never done that, I am not exactly sure how to frame up a wall?
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I would seriously consider having your contractors build a matching bulk head on the other side of the room.
By adding this symmetry your necessary evil (a mechanical bulk head) will turn into a nice accent feature (soffits).
Head height against the far wall shouldn't be an issue.
Just my two cents.

.
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post #19 of 74 Old 05-04-2014, 05:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClayliketheDIRT View Post

Looking good! I am looking forward in seeing the room after your painting is done. With the past progress history, I am assuming you will have pictures up of it painted and trimmed by morning.

 

I'll need a bigger whip Clay. But I am happy with how quickly he's got things moving. This part (drywalling) seems to be taking the longest so far.


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post #20 of 74 Old 05-04-2014, 05:59 AM
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I agree! I'd do it on the back wall as well.

Sent from my Droid MAXX via Tapatalk.
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post #21 of 74 Old 05-04-2014, 06:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Looks amazing! I am curious, what did your contractor charge for doing the framing & drywall work? I have a similar space that is 27ft by 14ft by 8ft that is all concrete on each wall & floor. I want to put up a wall and have one side by a dedicated theater room and the other side by a dining area. The theater side will be 17ft by 14ft by 8ft.

I have to figure out a way to attach the Sheetrock to the concrete walls, and will most likely build a frame like you did so as to have an easy way to attach the Sheetrock. Only thing is that I am on a tight budget, and would like to do at least the framing myself, but, having never done that, I am not exactly sure how to frame up a wall?


Marty,

 

I can't really answer that with any precision. This project encompasses several rooms including 3-piece bathroom, theater, home office, large sitting area, bar and a couple of hallways. There is also a custom wall with illuminated wall nooks. So the whole cost of this is well in excess of $80,000 CDN and that doesn't include the theater equipment or the bar. It does include all framing, insulation, mechanical, plumbing, electrical, drywall, carpet/tile, etc.

 

I can tell you what they did when framing the walls. They used a black membrane against the outside concrete wall, you can see in the first few photos. The bottom sill of the wall sits on a 6 mil poly sheet so the wood is not touching bare concrete and they screwed the bottom sill to the concrete floor. Then insulation followed by vapor barrier and finally drywall.


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post #22 of 74 Old 05-04-2014, 09:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

I would seriously consider having your contractors build a matching bulk head on the other side of the room.
By adding this symmetry your necessary evil (a mechanical bulk head) will turn into a nice accent feature (soffits).
Head height against the far wall shouldn't be an issue.
Just my two cents.


David,

 

An excellent suggestion. I have an email off to my contractor to see, if it's not too late, how much extra this would cost.

I agree with you that it would look far more balanced and esthetically pleasing. Thanks.


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post #23 of 74 Old 05-06-2014, 05:07 PM - Thread Starter
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SOFFITS .. MORE SOFFITS

 

After considering the comments made about symmetry with the soffits and polling a few people, it was pretty unanimous that it would look better with some symmetry to balance out the lone soffit on one side of the room. So the decision is to go with matching soffit on the opposite wall. It balances with the existing pot lights nicely too. It was decided to leave off the soffit on the back wall mainly because the lack of headroom could be problematic ... the equipment rack is going back there.

 

Thank you David for the great suggestion ... good catch.

 

 

Framing the new soffit on opposite wall.

 

 

View to the back wall.

 

View to the front wall.


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post #24 of 74 Old 05-06-2014, 05:14 PM
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Yup...the dual soffits are going to look much better than a single bulkhead.
Glad it wasn't too late to make the change.

I only help because you are a fellow Canadian. smile.gif

Probably want to stuff it with insulation to prevent it from turning into a hollow drum.

.
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post #25 of 74 Old 05-07-2014, 04:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

Yup...the dual soffits are going to look much better than a single bulkhead.
Glad it wasn't too late to make the change.

I only help because you are a fellow Canadian. smile.gif

Probably want to stuff it with insulation to prevent it from turning into a hollow drum.

 

Today the extra soffit was filled with Roxul Safe 'n Sound insulation and drywalled. Still has to be taped, mudded and sanded.

Definitely looks better now.

 

 

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post #26 of 74 Old 05-07-2014, 04:38 PM
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It amazes me how much skill the people on this forum have. Very nice work thus far!

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post #27 of 74 Old 05-08-2014, 04:04 PM - Thread Starter
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PRIMER

 

Coat of primer going on the walls & ceiling today. Extra soffit still has to be taped, mudded & sanded.

 

 

 

 


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post #28 of 74 Old 05-08-2014, 06:31 PM
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post #29 of 74 Old 05-08-2014, 07:01 PM
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Full steam ahead!
Keep those pics coming.
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post #30 of 74 Old 05-09-2014, 09:19 AM
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Looks awesome! Can't wait to see more pics!

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