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post #1 of 15 Old 05-22-2014, 04:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Would the projection screen wall typically sit on top of a 6 inch high stage? Or would the stage go up to the screen wall (without touching it)?
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post #2 of 15 Old 05-22-2014, 05:42 PM
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usually on top of the stage


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post #3 of 15 Old 05-22-2014, 09:42 PM - Thread Starter
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OK thanks.

Would that be true as well if the speakers were on the stage, in front of the projection screen wall?
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post #4 of 15 Old 05-22-2014, 10:15 PM
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then what happens behind the screen wall stays behind the screen wall. Do what you want.


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post #5 of 15 Old 05-23-2014, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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One more question...

I know risers should be isolated and not touching the rear wall. Is the same true for a sand filled stage? Should there be any space between the stage framing and the drywall behind?
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post #6 of 15 Old 05-23-2014, 11:50 AM
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You have that backwards it is the stage where you should leave a space. The riser only needs it if you will be installing sub-woofers or other devices that will cause the riser to vibrate.


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post #7 of 15 Old 05-25-2014, 03:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank you!

One more quick question... I'm planning on a 2x12 perimeter, with 2x8 stringers, 12" on center. For decking, is one layer of 3/4 OSB sufficient? Some people seem to be doing two layers. I'd like a 1.5 inch thick bullnose lip to wrap carpeting around, but I can do this by screwing/gluing a 2nd OSB strip under only the lip. Is the 2nd layer of OSB over entire riser really necessary for stability?
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post #8 of 15 Old 05-25-2014, 04:45 PM
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Multiple layer tops are not about being strong enough to hold the furniture, it is about trying to keep it quiet. My stages have been either 2 layers of 3/4 or 3 layers of 5/8. Green Glue between layers is the deluxe approach, roofing felt was used before GG was on the market and is a fall back.


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post #9 of 15 Old 05-26-2014, 09:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you!
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post #10 of 15 Old 09-03-2014, 02:22 PM - Thread Starter
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One more question regarding this...

I've already placed insulation loosely inside the riser. But I know there should be some openings/registers to allow the riser to breathe. Any suggestions on size and position of these registers? My riser will be supporting 5 recliners, and is about 80 inches deep.
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post #11 of 15 Old 09-04-2014, 06:36 AM
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Usually you only open up the riser with registers for the purpose of using the riser as a bass trap. The openings have to be strategic for that purpose, otherwise just leave it sealed.


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post #12 of 15 Old 09-04-2014, 02:55 PM - Thread Starter
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I actually had built it as a bass trap... isolated from all walls, and open bays inside that are not touching the floor. I realize it's not an exact science, but maybe some registers on the sides? Or in the back?
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post #13 of 15 Old 09-05-2014, 05:57 AM
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Riser as Broad Band Bass Trap

Some old and newer info in this thread. Worth a read, then decide if you want to chance it.

Further info available here as well.
http://forums.musicplayer.com/ubbthr...ad#Post2032618


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Last edited by oman321; 09-05-2014 at 06:01 AM.
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post #14 of 15 Old 09-05-2014, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
You have that backwards it is the stage where you should leave a space. The riser only needs it if you will be installing sub-woofers or other devices that will cause the riser to vibrate.
How big of a space? 1/8"...1/4" ?
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post #15 of 15 Old 09-06-2014, 04:09 PM
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I start with 1/2 in case it moves a bit. I actually slide scrap pieces of wood down from the top and then pull them out, put a screw in the top so they can't slip into the gap forever.


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