Framing for Soundproofing - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 07-06-2014, 09:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Framing for Soundproofing

Hi,

My GC has framed out the ceiling of my living room like you can see in the attached images.

This happened before we met on site to discuss the Resilient Clips, Hat channel etc.

I have a shipment of Clips, Green Glue etc on route.

So? Does this need to come down and be replaced with Resilient Clips and Hat Channel or is this already well enough isolated from the joists above, perhaps better as there are very few points this all attaches to the joists above. It is predominantly attached to the new framing on the left and right wall in the room.

Where next. He wants 1 OSB, 1 5/8 Drywall. I have been advised 2 5/8 Drywall with 2 Tubes of GG between each 4x8 sheet. I'm sure we can agree on the caluk to seal the gap around the edge etc, especially as it is sitting there and I have paid for it.

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 7 Old 07-07-2014, 04:52 AM
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A subwoofer's cone is only attached to the voice coil in a very small area just like your ceiling is attached with a few points. If you want a soundproofed space, you need to build it with soundproof methods. His subs are building it like they have built the last 20 projects, could care less what you want.

There are many other aspects of soundproofing other than how to hang a ceiling, HVAC and treating every single wall penetration. What is he planning for the walls and floor? I assume this room has doors, what kind and how well sealed?
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post #3 of 7 Old 07-07-2014, 06:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I posted here as I thought the construction side more active here.

This is a living room so not aiming for 100% isolation. I have the street on one side. 3 layers of brick wall. Also behind the tv and the rear wall ajoin other properties and must be 3-5 layers of brick.
The other side is my kitchen and public / second bathroom. Wood and steel frame with insulation.
Wood floor with rugs below. Nobody living below.
I'm most concerned with sound ttravelling up hence the ceiling.

No HVAC. Historic preservation building so no punching holes through the front.

Seems I'm asking for this to come down and the sound clips hat channel insulation the two drywall with Greenv glue sandwich to go up?

That ceiling is 13 ft up so speakers will be on walls.

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post #4 of 7 Old 07-08-2014, 09:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi,



Shows the room layout, thick brick and windows to the North, the East and West Walls again with Thick Brick (1906 Row House Thick) and then open to the Kitchen on the South.
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post #5 of 7 Old 07-09-2014, 05:00 AM
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you have a pretty wide open space so you need to adjust your expectations. You are not soundproofing you are trying to take the edge off the sound that makes it upstairs. The kitchen and the stairway will be your weak links.
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post #6 of 7 Old 07-09-2014, 05:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you, I could not have written a elevator summary of my plan better.

Can't do much about the front door.

The kitchen ceiling is dropped from 13 to 9 ft and insulated in there. That should also take the edge off, also there is a storage attic above the drop adding mass, density etc.

The street will still let noise in but we want to open the Windows not secondary glaze. The preservation means window replacement is not an option.

Thanks for the input really appreciate it.

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post #7 of 7 Old 07-17-2014, 09:20 PM - Thread Starter
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So, ceiling redone with Resilient Clips and Resilient Channel.

There is foam tape that needs to be stuck to the channel before anything else gets fixed to it, along with insulation to go between the joists.
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