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post #1 of 46 Old 07-16-2014, 09:12 AM - Thread Starter
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New House - Bonus room

I posted a while back about building a new home and the dimensions of the potential theater space. Well I've changed my house plan and now "my space" is going to be the bonus room above the three car garage. We are breaking ground next week and as of now, I'm planning on leaving the bonus room space unfinished so I can do it right. The roof line in the space unfortunately will be sloped, so if the wall is 5' going up to 8' then the room will be 15x35. If the wall is 6' going up to 8' then the room is 13x35. The rear wall is a flat and I've told the builder not to put a window in the room at all. No dormers, no windows, etc. I've almost thought that with that length of room, I could almost divide it in two and make a smaller dedicated theater on the far end with a multipurpose bar/hangout in the front. I would only need/want about 6 dedicated seats in the theater I guess.


How are the dimensions? Any thoughts on what I need to look out for right now? How should I be planning? Does the sloped roof cause any issues? Any other guidance?

Thanks
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post #2 of 46 Old 07-17-2014, 04:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by branan1 View Post
I posted a while back about building a new home and the dimensions of the potential theater space. Well I've changed my house plan and now "my space" is going to be the bonus room above the three car garage. We are breaking ground next week and as of now, I'm planning on leaving the bonus room space unfinished so I can do it right. The roof line in the space unfortunately will be sloped, so if the wall is 5' going up to 8' then the room will be 15x35. If the wall is 6' going up to 8' then the room is 13x35. The rear wall is a flat and I've told the builder not to put a window in the room at all. No dormers, no windows, etc. I've almost thought that with that length of room, I could almost divide it in two and make a smaller dedicated theater on the far end with a multipurpose bar/hangout in the front. I would only need/want about 6 dedicated seats in the theater I guess.


How are the dimensions? Any thoughts on what I need to look out for right now? How should I be planning? Does the sloped roof cause any issues? Any other guidance?

Thanks
Hi Branan1

I had my colleague ask me this question on a Google Hangout we recorded yesterday so that I could respond in full as typing takes me too long (I type like I have hooves for hands!). You can see the video here:

At 1.02 minutes in I begin my response to my colleague as he completes reading out your question. Towards the end of the video you'll hear me refer to some other rooms. That's because I answered a series of peoples questions on this hang out before editing down each component part. In short you have a great room size to begin with which is half the battle.

So I hope it helps and please let me know if you need any further advice.

Thanks
Dennis
Acoustic Engineer
Acoustic Fields
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post #3 of 46 Old 07-17-2014, 04:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Dennis, what a wonderful response. Thank you much.

As far as the room size, if I want the room to be 15x35, then the side walls would be five feet tall and they would slope up to 8 feet. If I don't less slope on the side roof, then I could build the room 13x35 and the side walls would be 6 feet tall. For every foot less of slope I lose two feet in total width. Does that make sense?
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post #4 of 46 Old 07-17-2014, 06:37 AM
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Fitting a decent size screen on the end wall with converging sloped ceilings has been an issue on other projects you should draw your screen wall to scale and see what you can reasonably fit.
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post #5 of 46 Old 07-18-2014, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by branan1 View Post
Dennis, what a wonderful response. Thank you much.

As far as the room size, if I want the room to be 15x35, then the side walls would be five feet tall and they would slope up to 8 feet. If I don't less slope on the side roof, then I could build the room 13x35 and the side walls would be 6 feet tall. For every foot less of slope I lose two feet in total width. Does that make sense?
Hi Branan1,

My pleasure. I can answer faster and in more detail through video as my typing speed is so poor.

In answer to your question, having ceiling heights of only 5' or 6' are just not acceptable acoustically. You would have to position yourself under the 8' ceiling height area only. This is sad to see because you have good, width and length. Can you tell me the total dimensions of all space with 8' ceilings only?

Thanks
Dennis
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post #6 of 46 Old 07-18-2014, 08:07 AM
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My bonus room has 5' knee walls and is 13' wide. I have no problem with the 5' wall. I feel the bonus room shape is rather well disguised with the way I designed the side wall soffits. If you are concerned that 5' knee walls will be worse than 6' knee walls, I wouldn't sweat it. But I DO wish my 13' overall width was more. I think you should go for 15' wide with 5' knee walls.

It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds.

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post #7 of 46 Old 07-21-2014, 04:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sands_at_Pier147 View Post
My bonus room has 5' knee walls and is 13' wide. I have no problem with the 5' wall. I feel the bonus room shape is rather well disguised with the way I designed the side wall soffits. If you are concerned that 5' knee walls will be worse than 6' knee walls, I wouldn't sweat it. But I DO wish my 13' overall width was more. I think you should go for 15' wide with 5' knee walls.
Thanks. Do you have a pic of your soffits and the knee wall?
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post #8 of 46 Old 07-22-2014, 12:45 AM
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If I understood correctly branan1’s description of his sloped ceiling, having a decently sized screen shouldn’t be an issue. A 120” (scope) would have a reasonable distance to the side walls. But with this shape (assuming it’s correct), maybe dividing the room is the better option. Such a long room with sloped ceiling may feel like a tunnel. Perhaps some creative lighting helps, though.



edited: re-reading branan1 description, maybe it's a asymmetrical room with a single slope. If so, it'd be harder to get it right.


Last edited by Silva741; 07-22-2014 at 09:14 AM.
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post #9 of 46 Old 07-22-2014, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by branan1 View Post
Thanks. Do you have a pic of your soffits and the knee wall?

Just the ones in my build thread. Look toward the end - the lower soffit went up pretty late.

It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds.

Brian
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post #10 of 46 Old 07-30-2014, 03:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by branan1 View Post
Dennis, what a wonderful response. Thank you much.

As far as the room size, if I want the room to be 15x35, then the side walls would be five feet tall and they would slope up to 8 feet. If I don't less slope on the side roof, then I could build the room 13x35 and the side walls would be 6 feet tall. For every foot less of slope I lose two feet in total width. Does that make sense?
Hi Branan,

Here's some further guidance I recorded for you in yesterdays weekly hangout where I try to get through forum questions

I hope it helps. Not trying to be a killjoy but trying to give you my honest opinion from a professional acoustics standpoint.

Thanks
Dennis
Acoustic Engineer
Acoustic Fields
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post #11 of 46 Old 07-30-2014, 04:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Silva, you're first description is accurate. Its symmetrical with a 5' knee wall on each side.
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post #12 of 46 Old 07-30-2014, 04:58 AM - Thread Starter
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The foundation is being poured right now. I'm going to talk to my contractor about the cost of making this room a full 9' ceiling. Anyone have any old brick I can give my wife? That would free up the budget a little. :-)
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post #13 of 46 Old 07-30-2014, 05:15 AM
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My opinion: If you only want room for 6 seats, split the space in 2. It's way more cost effective to keep the sound-isolated space as small as possible. Your problem is going to be the entrance into the theater though. Do you have a layout drawn up of the overall space relative to the rest of the 2nd floor of the house?
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post #14 of 46 Old 07-30-2014, 09:52 PM - Thread Starter
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My opinion: If you only want room for 6 seats, split the space in 2. It's way more cost effective to keep the sound-isolated space as small as possible. Your problem is going to be the entrance into the theater though. Do you have a layout drawn up of the overall space relative to the rest of the 2nd floor of the house?
The garage is on the back of the house, so its almost as if the bonus room is not connected. It will have it's own staircase and none of the walls will join the main home.

I've really been thinking about a riser and the design. I think I'm going to end up splitting the room into two areas. One for a bar/multipurpose and one for a theater. Then I can out a step up in the bar room to enter the theater. That would allow me to basically enter into the riser area and step down to the first row. As a result I will probably make the ceiling a 9' so I can have an 8' ceiling when I'm standing on the riser.
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post #15 of 46 Old 08-01-2014, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by branan1 View Post
The garage is on the back of the house, so its almost as if the bonus room is not connected. It will have it's own staircase and none of the walls will join the main home.

I've really been thinking about a riser and the design. I think I'm going to end up splitting the room into two areas. One for a bar/multipurpose and one for a theater. Then I can out a step up in the bar room to enter the theater. That would allow me to basically enter into the riser area and step down to the first row. As a result I will probably make the ceiling a 9' so I can have an 8' ceiling when I'm standing on the riser.
Does that mean the room gets wider as well? Or just taller in the center? Steeper roof pitch? I ask because your entrance door most likely will have to be centrally located on your back wall. Most likely you'll be entering right behind the 2nd row of seats. Take this into account when figuring how far off the back wall your seats will have to be. I had the same thing in my first theater (bonus room as well). I ended up using all of the 24' of length for 2 rows of seats.
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post #16 of 46 Old 08-07-2014, 06:17 AM - Thread Starter
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It does not get wider. I'll post a sketch up I did here shortly.

Since the room is not attached to the main house, meaning there are no common walls and I don't have neighbors per se, do I need to worry about all of the soundproofing? DD, GG, clips, etc?
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post #17 of 46 Old 08-21-2014, 05:09 AM - Thread Starter
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As an update, the contractor is changing the room a little. I was able to drop the ceiling height of the garage from 10' to 8'6", which increased the knee walls to 6'6". Now if I do a soffit it should almost eliminate the slope of the ceiling all together.
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post #18 of 46 Old 08-21-2014, 07:59 AM
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Why can't you get your builder to get higher pitched trusts over the garage? It will reduce your slope and give you more usable space.
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post #19 of 46 Old 08-21-2014, 08:01 AM
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Here is a side view of the house I am building. If you notice my garage pitch is higher then the house pitch. That's to give me more usuable space in my bonus room.

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post #20 of 46 Old 08-21-2014, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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The main reason is that my wife doesn't want to be able to see the garage from the front of the house. Increasing the pitch would raise the height of the roof wouldn't it?
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post #21 of 46 Old 08-21-2014, 08:18 AM
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Yeah it would. But are you right at the threshold? Do you have a foot or so to play with? It might be worth looking into. It made a big difference in my room.
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post #22 of 46 Old 08-21-2014, 08:23 AM
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I'm just thinking that losing height in my garage would really make me sad!! You can always change drywall, wires, flooring... but changing roof trusts....
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post #23 of 46 Old 08-21-2014, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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I have an 8'6" ceiling in the garage I'm in now and I've never thought that it needed to be larger. That being said, you never know.
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post #24 of 46 Old 08-21-2014, 08:35 AM
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After the theater, the garage is my favorite room! I'm also building a 3 car garage in my new house! Very excited
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post #25 of 46 Old 08-22-2014, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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I hear you. It looks like I would have a lot of room to work with actually. I'll attempt to attach the front a rear elevation.



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post #26 of 46 Old 08-22-2014, 07:37 AM
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Yeah I think you could easily raise the pitch whithout effecting front roofline view. Beautifull home!!!
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post #27 of 46 Old 08-23-2014, 11:03 AM
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Check out my build thread I built my house with the theater in mind. The front of my theater is over my work shop which has a 12" lower ceiling than the other 2 garage bays giving me a built in riser. My theater is 23' long and then I have a 14' billard room Put a dormer at the rear for the bar and a wall separating the theater and bar like my billard room
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post #28 of 46 Old 08-25-2014, 07:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Check out my build thread I built my house with the theater in mind. The front of my theater is over my work shop which has a 12" lower ceiling than the other 2 garage bays giving me a built in riser. My theater is 23' long and then I have a 14' billard room Put a dormer at the rear for the bar and a wall separating the theater and bar like my billard room
Thanks Mat.
@cw5billwade - I've read your thread from start to finish. That is exactly what I'm visualizing. Beautiful home and theater! One question, how is the temperature in your "bonus" area? Does the spray foam help significantly? I've noticed in the home I'm living in now that the bonus room is either really hot (summer) or really cold (winter). I imagine that spray foam is great though. Kind of like living in a yeti.
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post #29 of 46 Old 08-25-2014, 10:27 AM
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Thanks Mat.
@cw5billwade - I've read your thread from start to finish. That is exactly what I'm visualizing. Beautiful home and theater! One question, how is the temperature in your "bonus" area? Does the spray foam help significantly? I've noticed in the home I'm living in now that the bonus room is either really hot (summer) or really cold (winter). I imagine that spray foam is great though. Kind of like living in a yeti.
Spray foam was the best $11K I spent on the entire houseother than maybe the $3k for the tank less water heater. Both are saving melots of $$$ on my energy bill. I also use LEDs in all my cans and CFLs everywhereelse. Back to the question there needs to be a cold air return in the theatermine is 10" and I have four supplies. The theater is the coldest room upstairsby far. It is a combination of the whole house spray foam and then theadditional R19 in the ceiling and R13 in the theater walls that the bed rooms upstairsdo not have. If I am going to have a bunch of folks in the theater all I do isturn the air handler fan to on to draw stale air out of the theater. If the bonusroom is your only room upstairs insure you get an HVAC for it or do zones offthe main system (with its own thermos). Also I had them spray foam the garageceiling which I am certain is a huge help the garage is about 130 degrees thesedays and you would not know it by being upstairs. My old house the masterbedroom was over the garage and it was always hot. Spray foam is a god send ifyou can afford it jus t put regular R15 insulation in the walls and spray theattic.
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post #30 of 46 Old 08-25-2014, 02:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Spray foam was the best $11K I spent on the entire houseother than maybe the $3k for the tank less water heater. Both are saving melots of $$$ on my energy bill. I also use LEDs in all my cans and CFLs everywhereelse. Back to the question there needs to be a cold air return in the theatermine is 10" and I have four supplies. The theater is the coldest room upstairsby far. It is a combination of the whole house spray foam and then theadditional R19 in the ceiling and R13 in the theater walls that the bed rooms upstairsdo not have. If I am going to have a bunch of folks in the theater all I do isturn the air handler fan to on to draw stale air out of the theater. If the bonusroom is your only room upstairs insure you get an HVAC for it or do zones offthe main system (with its own thermos). Also I had them spray foam the garageceiling which I am certain is a huge help the garage is about 130 degrees thesedays and you would not know it by being upstairs. My old house the masterbedroom was over the garage and it was always hot. Spray foam is a god send ifyou can afford it jus t put regular R15 insulation in the walls and spray theattic.
I've already planned on the spray foam. My builder suggested just spray foaming the attic ceilings and the garage ceiling (like you suggested) and using regular pink stuff in the exterior walls of the home. Is that what you're talking about? He said you lose very little through the walls and everything through the ceiling. Do you guys agree with this or would you spray the entire home, including the exterior walls?
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