I've read through a lot of the threads and the FAQ and I've spoke to the Soundproofing Isolation Co folks. I'm converting a garage into a HT. The theater abuts a family room on one side and my study on the other. The other two walls are exterior walls. We're doing this as part of a whole house remodel, but it's kind of a last minute add on so some things are already done, such as wiring, framing, etc. Exterior walls are done.
I'd like to isolate this room sonically and have been advised to use clips and channels along with double layer of 5/8" gypsum board with Green Glue, putty pads for any electrical outlets, dead vents for air exchange and HVAC, etc. The media closet has 4 dedicated 20 amp outlets, and there is a sub-panel in the room as well if I need more power.
The room is going to be set up for up to a Dolby Atmos system and a 140 - 150" anamorphic screen.
Equipment that I already own are Bohlender Graebner Radia 520DX front and rear tower speakers, BG 220DX center channel, HSU TN1220 Sub with dedicated 500w amp, ATI 1505 amp, ATI 1502 amp, Emotiva UMC1 pre/pro (mine actually works without glitches), PS3, and PS4.
I plan on replacing the HSU with 2 DIY Marty Subs.
I really love the BG speakers as they're airy, detailed, and overall fantastic for my first love - 2 channel sound. I'd like to setup a 2 channel analogue system in the room as well as I have some old VTL Tube gear and a Sota Sapphire turntable with the vacuum hold down.
Since this was a garage, there are a couple of steps down from the family room level down into the garage. I figure this will work well with my plan for stadium seating. We'll have two levels, the entry level and then a lower level.
Right now my questions are:
1) What kid of interior doors do I use for sound isolation? I know I can use solid core doors with a spring loaded door sweep. But is there any particular type of interior door that is better than any other?
2) And even though I'll have clips and channels with double rock and GG, the media closet door is a huge fenestration as well as the equipment rack. I had wanted the equipment rack to be open in the back for access. But leaving that rack open will allow sound to bleed right through and waste my sound isolation efforts.
3) I'd like to install a 36" commercial steel door (drawn in on the right of the attached diagram) for ease of getting equipment and supplies into and out of the theater, especially during construction.
(a) Is there a particular type of commercial steel door that is recommended for sound isolation?
(b) Since that door is going into wall where the garage door once was, and we have to pour a footing for the wall, does the door sit on the level of the garage floor or does it sit at the level of the footing? I would imagine having it at the level of the footing is safer to prevent any water intrustion, but it does create a step over issue. I'm not sure what code calls for.
4) I've been told by some that my BG speakers won't deliver enough punch for home theater use. I had them in our old house in a room that was not a dedicated theater and they seemed to deliver plenty of punch. But the guys over in the DIY Subwoofer section seem to think the 6.5" mid-bass drivers will not be up to the task of meeting output requirements.
5) The other issue with the BG speakers is they tend to be more directional. Will this cause an issue with HT use?
6) What's the best way to install the clips and channels along the wall with the family room? Should I install the clips and channels on the inside of the media closet to ameliorate the massive sound leakage through the stereo rack?
7) I'm toying with the idea of building a false wall and hiding all the speakers behind it. However with the room dimensions being 18x21, a false wall would result in a 18x18 ish room. I've been told square is not good for sound. True? Solutions?
Thanks for all your help! I'm looking forward to the build but I'm apprehensive as well. There are so many details to deal with. Any suggestions or recommendations are more than welcome.