Bradbury Estates Shoehorn - AVS Forum
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Bradbury Estates Shoehorn

This is my theater build thread. I welcome you, and welcome your thoughts and advice. I am giving it a working title because it is going to be based on the look of a home theater I saw in pictures from a mansion called Bradbury Estates:





This is my current room status:



First things first, this is an existing dedicated theater room that is on the 2nd floor of my home. I plan on keeping the structure in-tact as-is. My aim is to upgrade the experience in the room from its current existence as a repository for my theater equipment which was purchased when I lived in a different home.

FIRST QUESTION: AT or not to AT.
This room is not an ideal size for me, but I want to maximize seating capacity as well as screen size using the dimensions I have to work with. I have been very interested in hiding the LCRs, but am not sure about giving up depth in the room by adding an acoustically transparent screen in front of the speakers. See attached picture of room layout. What would you do?


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Old 07-29-2014, 09:12 PM
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I wouldn't use a AT screen, I'd hate to give it that space. And if the door on the left side isn't used much, I'd consider placing the screen on the left wall.
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:00 PM
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The look you are going for is one of my favorites! I have gone back and forth AT and non-AT. I like the AT for being able to hide whatever speakers I want. If the speakers are ugly or DIY and come out ugly it doesn't matter. You can also hide large subwoofers without thought of how they look. Finally, with an AT screen you can add acoustic elements on that wall. The downside is that the screens are more expensive on average and you lose 3-4 feet or so of space.


With a non-AT screen the look of speakers and possible stands will make a difference. You will also have a less then ideally placed center channel speaker. Little kids and clumsy adults can run into the speakers. Your subwoofers will be exposed, probably. No acoustic treatment on the screen wall. On the upside, you save a lot of space which can allow for a larger screen. The screens tend to be less expensive. You can always step into an AT by adding too the screen wall which is usually easier then taking away.


I am leaning towards an AT screen myself and have a bit over 17 feet of length but less then 12 feet of width.
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:20 AM
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What are your feelings (Wants) about screen size and seating?
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone so far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
What are your feelings (Wants) about screen size and seating?
I think I am content (knowing the room size) with having "ideal" seating for two rows of two. And at that as you see in my photo one row could be just bean bags. The other row will be two theater seats I already have done on a 7" platform (will show in photos soon) which is movable.

With screen size I know that it can be scale-able to fit the distances I have, but I know that I am going to do a 2.35 screen and go CIH with whatever projector I go with (I currently have an Epson 6500UB, which won't do squat).

I also really am in love with trying for AT screen and screen wall (built into this footprint of my current space) but the distances are scaring me.

I am not opposed to turning the room 90 degrees from its current layout but it will affect so much existing built-in wiriing, sconces, and I have two in-wall rear speakers (mounted high at that vaulted ceiling angled down) that would need to move. So ultimately if I could keep the screen wall the plan north wall it would be best. But if I threw up an AT screen my room depth would be cut to somewhere in the 12' range.
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:44 AM
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Hey Skipford. Nice to see a new theater build thread come online.

Here are all the recommendations I would offer:
  • I agree with your plan to upgrade your screen to a wide aspect ratio 2.35-2.40:1 acoutically transparent screen. Seymour, Falcon (Snickers1) or Elite screens would be the best value choice. I would say 120" width is a great size for your room, if not slightly bigger than pro recommendations.
  • I would position the AT screen on the East wall and have the screen wall flush with the outcropping in the northeast corner. This will give you sufficient room behind the screen AND eliminates two problems I absolutely hate when the screen wall is opposite french doors....there is always a bit of light bleed-through right in between the doors that invariable hits the screen and second, your left, center and right speakers are blaring straight toward the room's entrance. Building a full wall all the way across will also allow you to hide acoustic treatments, bass traps and large subs in addition to being able to place the LCR position perfectly.
  • Paint your entire ceiling black and use simple moldings to create a light tray around the room. The black will reduce light reflections and improve your picture quality dramatically whereas the light tray will allow you to do two things: 1. Provide indirect uplighting with a rope light or similar and 2. Allow room for a speaker and signal wire pathway to re-orient the room appropriately.
  • Use a wider, single row of seating instead of two rows of two. There will never be any 'down in front' calls and this will give you the room to add a sofa table behind the seating with a few stools tucked underneath for the days when you have overflow. Of course there's always the bean bags that you can throw about as well.

Do you have attic access above this room? That is also an alternative for running new wires and perhaps even adding four airtight IC recessed lights in the flat part of the ceiling for general lighting.

By the way - how much of this look are you trying to replicate? Do you have a budget? Are acoustic treatments for the room in your plans? Are you wanting to do a star ceiling? There are glow-in-the-dark paint options of high quality that would work well if you don't want to get involved with fiber optic star ceilings, fyi.

Good luck! I'm sub'd and will be following along.
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:28 AM
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What would I do? Well since you asked "...all sweet-like..."

I see a room with both potential as well as specific considerations.

1. The room's shape / volume is essentially square, never a good thing acoustically . However the centralized recess at the entry point helps mitigate that somewhat.

2. The additional 2' depth gained by placing the screen to the left is not enough to really make a difference, seating wise. Either way you only have room for one row unless your considering a screen of /or less than 120" diagonal.

3. However it would allow you the potential of having a AT screen (Spandex...it's not just for Excercise gear anymore...)
But in truth...you could / should "pocket" your speakers into recesses in the wall to reduce the amount of "stand-off" to at least some degree (-3")

4. Screen Size is going to be directly tied to the PJ's ability to light up the area desired. I see what looks like a Epson 8350 up there. ..and so Unless a upgrade is in order, plans must evolve around the Epson.

5. Ditto with the existing speakers. Ambitious plans for a similar decor scheme as shown above will involve some significant expenditure, so thought shoild be given ad to optimizing the A/V equation.

Iffin' I was making decisions I would place the screen to the left... the first row of 4 seats would be across from the Case opening.(...eyes @ 9') I would build a Riser across the space between the right column and the framed "square" 70" deep and set 3 seats against the back wall. I would recess a Equipment Shelf into the rearmost left Square facing into the opposite Square.

At least your proposed look would be similar to your image...you'd have expanded seating...a larger screen, and a chance at realizing /meeting your expectations.


.....so OK, it took me an interval between reading , composing, and posting so I did not see your 8:00 am and 9:30 am posts.

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Last edited by MississippiMan; 07-30-2014 at 08:43 AM.
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
Hey Skipford. Nice to see a new theater build thread come online.
Thanks! I have been a long time stalker (see join date), and I have actually read your build thread in the past!

Here are all the recommendations I would offer:
  • I agree with your plan to upgrade your screen to a wide aspect ratio 2.35-2.40:1 acoutically transparent screen. Seymour, Falcon (Snickers1) or Elite screens would be the best value choice. I would say 120" width is a great size for your room, if not slightly bigger than pro recommendations.

    To clarify this, are you saying 120" at 16/9? I was doing some calculations based on the threads talking about screen ratios and came to a conclusion that somewhere in this range or slightly bigger would be appropriate for the 16/9 ratio, then just convert that to 2.35. Regarding build, I am hoping to do most of the changes DIY. Right now IF I end up going AT screen, I am probably going to use white on white milliskin and make my own frame, or purchase the Seymour as you mentioned above and make my own frame. (I got samples from them last week)
  • I would position the AT screen on the East wall and have the screen wall flush with the outcropping in the northeast corner. This will give you sufficient room behind the screen AND eliminates two problems I absolutely hate when the screen wall is opposite french doors....there is always a bit of light bleed-through right in between the doors that invariable hits the screen and second, your left, center and right speakers are blaring straight toward the room's entrance. Building a full wall all the way across will also allow you to hide acoustic treatments, bass traps and large subs in addition to being able to place the LCR position perfectly.

    I am excited and scared that you recommend this. I was thinking the same thing, which makes me excited, but I am bummed that the layout would not be symmetrical. BUT given the room dimensions it makes total sense for this to be the case if I end up going AT screen (which I really want to do). Regarding the french doors; they are currently full glass with dividers french doors. I have already added an astragal to help keep noise out, as well as a sweep and weatherstripping around the perimeter of the frame to combat noise. A quick aside about this room location - it is on the second floor of my house across the hall from my two children's bedrooms (ages 5 and 3). I need to keep the room as soundproof as possible so I can watch movies at night when they are asleep. The french doors open into a playroom which then have french doors (on the plan west wall) opening into the hallway directly across from my son's bedroom. Regarding light, this can be controlled with blackout curtains on the french doors to keep all light out.

    The plan north and east walls are exterior walls (this room is on the corner of the house)and the west wall is shared with the hallway and the south wall is shared with the playroom and there are two closets with the french doors inbetween.

  • Paint your entire ceiling black and use simple moldings to create a light tray around the room. The black will reduce light reflections and improve your picture quality dramatically whereas the light tray will allow you to do two things: 1. Provide indirect uplighting with a rope light or similar and 2. Allow room for a speaker and signal wire pathway to re-orient the room appropriately.

    I may end up reversing this thought and build out a tray ceiling and have the indirect light come from that. I am foreseeing adding some ceiling speakers for Atmos, and because of sound I want to maintain that existing envelope of drywall at the current ceiling height. That height is 10' so I should be able to get away with a little encroachment.
  • Use a wider, single row of seating instead of two rows of two. There will never be any 'down in front' calls and this will give you the room to add a sofa table behind the seating with a few stools tucked underneath for the days when you have overflow. Of course there's always the bean bags that you can throw about as well.

    My question: with your proposal to turn the room 90 degrees, do you foresee the primary row of seating existing along the back wall or being in the middle of the room? The clear space depth of the room would be 14', so I'm not sure what works.

Do you have attic access above this room? That is also an alternative for running new wires and perhaps even adding four airtight IC recessed lights in the flat part of the ceiling for general lighting.

I do have attic access above this room. The difficulty is with the north and east walls being exterior walls. The roof trusses come down to the height of that vault in the ceiling at the north and east side, so fishing would require opening up the wall to drill new holes in the top plates of the walls then fishing between the ceiling and roof for 30" before clearing the attic at the ceiling height. Not impossible, but definitely surgery involved. Also there are already sconces wired in the east and west walls, along with two in-wall speakers on the vaulted ceiling at the east and west side for surround channels. I'm not opposed to deleting all this, it's just something to consider.

By the way - how much of this look are you trying to replicate? Do you have a budget? Are acoustic treatments for the room in your plans? Are you wanting to do a star ceiling? There are glow-in-the-dark paint options of high quality that would work well if you don't want to get involved with fiber optic star ceilings, fyi.

I think the budget is going to be relatively low for such an undertaking, but at least a few thousand dollars. I plan on adding acoustical treatments especially on the screen wall and side walls and corners and back wall with the Dow 703 insulation board. I want to replicate that tufted micro suede in the picture to some extent. And that green crushed velvet curtain I like. I could live without the star ceiling in the first iteration of this. I think some nice indirect lighting with the color changing LED strips would be good enough to start out. I am not aware of the high quality glow-in-the-dark solutions. If you have an example please share! That might be interesting!

Good luck! I'm sub'd and will be following along.
Thank you! I appreciate your help very much!
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:07 AM
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It sounds like your considering more extensive changes that related in your first two postings. I see your considering a Tray, so you are going to have framing and drywall work ongoing. That allows for more changes than you might realize, and most would come at little extra expense.

Absolutely anything remotely like switching to 2.39:1 format, installing additional speakers for Atmos, and doing a Riser will / must involve transposing the room to the 16' depth. And in that case, I'd go for a 120" x 50" 2.39:1 screen....something that will afford you a respectable 16:9 image when that is in play. However I would not suggest placing the screen on the right side from the current placement and building out. That would negate any advantage of switching your room configuration and effectively ellimate your chance of having two rows of seating...something that seems inherently critical to your proposed design hopes.

Recessing the R&L mains and then employing AT- oriented Travis Rod Curtains that cover those speakers, as well as serve to do the desired "Side masks" would round out a well thought out AT Screen application.

Lighting design will be essential. Spots and Wall Wash Cans are the ticket.

If the closet and square framed area to the left that comprise the entry could be eliminated, things could be radically improved. Ditto with the small column to the right of the present screen, but something suggests to me that it is there for a reason (A-C Supply or Return?)

As for the Star ceiling, choose wisely and install it according to the methods proven to reduce labor yet assure resplendent end results. A Star ceiling is all about realism...done right it can be fabulous...done wrong or using the wrong hardware....it's a total bust.

Lastly, I would suggest considering appropriate speakers for any "Atmos" application. As Onkyo is the first Mfg with anything claiming such, be advised that all Atmos involves at present using their gear is a re-purposing of the High Effects channel. Not centralized Ceiling speaker placements. I was planning on two such installations myself using Transducers but the recently released specs have made me reconsider. I already have very respectable results using a 9.2+ configured set-up with Onkyo.

Achieving your desired goals on a reasonable budget is possible, if practical choices are made. There will be / are lots of good suggestions forthcoming, however most if not all would push the budget to the breaking point. Unless you radically change your speaker choices, expensive acoustical treatments are not going to be required in a space as small as yours.

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Last edited by MississippiMan; 07-30-2014 at 09:19 AM.
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Old 07-30-2014, 01:00 PM - Thread Starter
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I hope to start taking photos with something other than my cell phone. But for now I wanted to show what I have done to the closet (depicted on the plan view as that lower left closet with the door opening into the theater room).

This closet had numerous fixed shelves which are nightmarish for trying to access A/V equipment. So a buddy of mine gave me a rack he wasn't going to use and I had to modify the bottom to install a lazy susan turntable which allows me to rotate the rack. So far so good!




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Old 07-30-2014, 03:38 PM
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I was recommending 120" at 2.35:1......MAYBE 130" width at 2.35:1 if you really wanted to push the size. One of your constraints is going to be throw distance for the size of screen you want. MOST screen sizes should work, but something to keep your eye on. Projectorcentral.com has a great projection calculator just in case you weren't aware.

I don't see the primary seating on the back wall, but pulled forward at least 3 or 4 feet, which is yet another reason to stick with the smaller-ish 120" width screen based on viewing angles. Pulling the seating away from the rear wall also has huge acoustic benefits as well by getting a good 5' or more of separation between the surround speakers and the MLP.

It will be tough to reach all of your goals without gutting the room's drywall. Going to the studs will afford you the opportunity to run whatever electrical you wanted, easily run speaker wires, add clips / channel for decoupling and then add back two layers of 5/8" drywall with Green Glue. It will also give you the chance to expose the framing around the door so you could then remove the french doors and go down to a single, solid soundproof door with Zero International seals all around. Yes, the theater would be slightly asymmetrical, but if the seating is aligned with the center of the screen, all should be good with the right setup and calibration.

If you are thinking Atmos, you'll definitely have to remove that ceiling fan. I'm not sure if that was in your plans already, but spinning blades passing through your audio signal is never a good thing!

It sounds like you know your way around tools and general construction, so you're probably aware of the difficulty, expense, and installation tradeoffs with each type of approach. To me, it sounds like you would like to gut down to the studs and then build back the way it should be with the screen on the East wall....but also realize that this approach would blow a small budget out of the water before any finishing work was started. Even if you don't go whole-hog, there is definite benefit to an absorption-only approach by installing a handful of Owens Corning 703 or 705 panels at key spots in the room. Having a drywall palace with all hard surfaces is definitely not optimal.

As for painted star ceilings, consult with Jeff at NightSkyMurals. Here is a thread on AVS: Star Ceilings... Painted or Fiber optics? and his website: http://nightskymurals.com/

You will need to install black lights to 'charge' the paint. Jeff will travel to you and do the painting, but I am aware of some folks buying his special paint formulation and going at it from a DIY approach.

I'm also glad to have you following along in my thread. Construction recommences around September 15th, FYI.
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Old 07-30-2014, 04:37 PM
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AT screen, single row of four. Build in from the room, with soffits. The wood kick trim and columns could be used to get wiring around the room,
inside it's shelf. Fabric walls could hide drywall and cover acoustical treatments.
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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AT screen, single row of four. Build in from the room, with soffits. The wood kick trim and columns could be used to get wiring around the room,
inside it's shelf. Fabric walls could hide drywall and cover acoustical treatments.

I have been asked a few times about removal of closets. The short answer is that only the right closet can be removed. The left closet includes an air conditioning chase in it that runs from attic to lower floor. The build out in the northeast corner of the room is to cover the chimney stack from the fireplace on first floor.

Here is a picture of the right closet removed as well as the french doors. I could just use the closet door as the entry door into the room.

But I'm not sure if this would help because the other closet (which is the AV closet along with that HVAC chase) would still exist in the back left of the room, leaving an imbalance in symmetry and a close proximity wall to the center seating areas.

Thoughts?



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Old 07-30-2014, 06:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Some additional photos of the current state of the room (I am a visual guy, this helps me see things, so hopefully it will help y'all):








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Old 07-30-2014, 08:08 PM
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Could the HVAC chase be rotated ninety degrees, to lay parallel to the back wall?
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Could the HVAC chase be rotated ninety degrees, to lay parallel to the back wall?
HEHEHEHE! MY WIFE IS GOING TO LOVE YOU!

You know, I'm not sure exactly what size duct is in that chase. I will have to investigate. Although that might have to wait until this weekend when I can crawl around in the attic and perhaps poke some holes in drywall.
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:22 PM - Thread Starter
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If I render a 138" screen this is what it looks like from where the current seating is:

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Old 07-30-2014, 08:38 PM
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It's just drywall. Not exactly rocket science to repair or install. Fabric panel walls can also hide walls that aren't mudded
and sanded perfectly.


I'm sure she loves you pulling those glass panel double doors out. If she gives you a rough time about that, tell her I approve.
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:10 PM
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or maybe the double doors stay....
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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or maybe the double doors stay....
Regarding this version of your layout, wouldn't that seating location allow for the closets to stay? Not sure what footage you are at but it seems farther up front than perhaps the closet walls.
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Old 07-31-2014, 03:15 PM
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A baffle wall could be as shallow as 8" depending on speakers. It's another option that you might not know exists...
So for the cost of a professional design and new speakers, your speakers end up hidden, and they can be more dynamic speakers,
and you could employ an AT screen. You might very well be able to to keep the closets but more volume in the room gives you a
little wiggle room to adjust for smoother audio and keeps the surrounds further off the seating.

The closets would be gone if it were my space. I much prefer the av rack outside the room, and to make the most of the space.

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Old 08-01-2014, 06:15 AM
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Another thought, keeping a baffle wall for it's shallow room depth hit, is to cut back the closet with the HVAC chase
(to the HVAC chase).
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Old 08-01-2014, 11:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Another thought, keeping a baffle wall for it's shallow room depth hit, is to cut back the closet with the HVAC chase
(to the HVAC chase).
So in this configuration do you think I could get by with only one subwoofer or should I try to put another subwoofer either in the same column or somewhere beneath the screen perhaps but protruding past the plane of the screen wall?
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Old 08-01-2014, 02:24 PM
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I think you would get better performance fitting a pair of subs under your screen. The pair will help with providing smoother and more even response throughout your room. I like Tedd's last diagram. If you're handy, you can diy some decent sealed subs that would fit behind your screen wall if you were to pull it out maybe 15" from the front wall.

-




Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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Old 08-01-2014, 03:13 PM
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You should try to stick with your original concept.
Two rows of seating. ((...your Style of small, Folding Type Theater Chairs certainly support that...)
If you can lose the structure to the right of the double Doors, then you should reposition the Screen wall to the right.
Don't add another Column.
Relocate the Closet Door on the opposite side of the Theater, in the adjoining room
Place your Equipment in a "Through-the-wall" shelved enclosure you access from the other room
Build a 8" Platform along the Left wall.
Recess the Center Channel into the Ceiling Slope just above the Wall / Ceiling juncture. The angle available was made to order....use it ! No Baffle Wall required...no loss of Room depth.
You'll have all the room you need to have the size screen you desire....you can even use the wall now....a ditch the AT screen concept.
You'll have plenty of space to place your Right & Left Mains to each side of the Screen, and at a more useful separation distance for spatial imaging.....and acoustics.
The Room will be more suitable, acoustically speaking, being set up as a rectangle instead of a square.
The French Doors can stay, and by simply building a Blind Entry Screen partition, you can totally restrict light intrusion.
You'll save a lot of money that can apply to upping your "Decor Ante".



........or you could do away with the Blind Entry Partition Wall and simply use Curtains
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To quote James T. Kirk;
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"

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Old 08-01-2014, 09:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Current design condender:





Those are two microwreckers on their side underneath the screen. One has a side removed so you can see the innards just for fun.
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Old 08-02-2014, 04:34 AM
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Putting the screen on the East wall will solve your traffic aisle issues found by keeping the screen on the North wall. You end up using a lot of the room for pathways and always walking around the seating. There's also the issue of the speakers and subs being positioned directly opposite the door when improving the soundproofing was one of your main goals.

I always like the small hallway entrances like Tedd proposed as well. Completely controls the light from entering the room and gives you the opportunity for two soundproof doors vs. just one.
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Old 08-02-2014, 09:47 AM
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I would recommend a second subwoofer, to help with room nodes.




"You'll save a lot of money that can apply to upping your "Decor Ante"."


Yes you will. But do you REALLY need those three audio compromised rear seats?
And do you really need that riser (and if so, why not extend it to the side wall to create
a full range bass absorber out of it, while you're at it)? Great design always starts with the"wants
versus needs" seating argument. If you don't need seven seats, why spend budget on seven seats?


I'd also be taking the room to a very dark state, and let the lighting be the WOW factor. Work in some texture
to keep the room from being overly bland, and the maxed out video and audio be the secondary WOW factors.


I think what Nylor is doing with his demo room is cutting edge small room. And that baffle walled JTR T8
room on his blog is pretty close to cutting edge smaller budget room. I'd be thinking a single row four seat version of the middle
theater, with a darker side walls would be impressive enough in it's own rights, with some beefed up zoned lighting. The pair of front wall
sconces could be moved to the side walls, via some armoured cable beneath fabric panels.
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
Putting the screen on the East wall will solve your traffic aisle issues found by keeping the screen on the North wall. You end up using a lot of the room for pathways and always walking around the seating. There's also the issue of the speakers and subs being positioned directly opposite the door when improving the soundproofing was one of your main goals.

I always like the small hallway entrances like Tedd proposed as well. Completely controls the light from entering the room and gives you the opportunity for two soundproof doors vs. just one.
I appreciate this point.

I think I have failed to fully explain the existing condition of the home. The double doors entering the room connect to a play room which then has double french doors on the plan west wall that then enter into the hallway.

Currently I have installed weatherstripping and astragals and door sweeps on all four leaves of both openings and surrounding frame. I have not tested this application with an SPL meter as-yet. None the less, I believe this, coupled with abstaining from interrupting the existing drywall envelope of the room will be adequate (albeit not ultimate) in abating sound into the children's rooms.

With regard to light, this will be a non factor as I can install curtains, roman shades, etc at the entrance to the room on the doors themselves to completely black out the room.

I will respond to the matter of rear soundfield in my quote of the next post below this one...
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
I would recommend a second subwoofer, to help with room nodes.




"You'll save a lot of money that can apply to upping your "Decor Ante"."


Yes you will. But do you REALLY need those three audio compromised rear seats?
And do you really need that riser (and if so, why not extend it to the side wall to create
a full range bass absorber out of it, while you're at it)? Great design always starts with the"wants
versus needs" seating argument. If you don't need seven seats, why spend budget on seven seats?


I'd also be taking the room to a very dark state, and let the lighting be the WOW factor. Work in some texture
to keep the room from being overly bland, and the maxed out video and audio be the secondary WOW factors.


I think what Nylor is doing with his demo room is cutting edge small room. And that baffle walled JTR T8
room on his blog is pretty close to cutting edge smaller budget room. I'd be thinking a single row four seat version of the middle
theater, with a darker side walls would be impressive enough in it's own rights, with some beefed up zoned lighting. The pair of front wall
sconces could be moved to the side walls, via some armored cable beneath fabric panels.

I really like those examples you have cited! I do believe I am going to try and incorporate these aspects into this room. Those are both very contemporary. I think now I am going to really play with whether I want to introduce the crushed velvet curtain, as that look does slightly stray from the very clean-line contemporary look of these examples. None the less I do plan on incorporating some really nice wall treatments to both darken the room and provide some texture.

At a minimum I will be painting the ceiling and hopefully finding some form of indirect lighting/cove solution to add some interest there.

Regarding the seating configuration, please re-explain to me what you are saying. I have two seats at the rear currently (not three) and in this last iteration I moved them back and offset them to allow a passage aisle into the room. Regarding the soundfield, are you saying that due to their position in relation to the closet walls that they will be compromised? I am concerned about this. Will the distance to the left and right and back immediately behind those seats be adequate to still create the rear soundfields desired (speakers above the double doors and along the left and right walls at the corners)?

If I were not going to re-orient the room would you pull those back row seats further forward? I think having a single 4 seat row is fine, and should be considered as flex seating.

Regarding the platform for the seats, Those platforms are covered on 6 sides with carpet. They are movable, and there is one platform per seat so they can move about the room. In my original intention for this room I wanted it to be a multipurpose room where kids could play with the Playstation Move games for example with all the seats out of the way. Or a flex space for an additional guest bedroom when needed with a blow up mattress, etc. But the primary use of the room is as a home theater. I put them on risers simply because I wanted to mount the seats to a moveable sled, and decided to go ahead and have them elevated 7" versus less; since I was going to have to have them elevated at some dimension for the thickness of the sled alone.

So at this point I think the debate comes down to what is an acceptable distance from the screen for the rear row (or only row).

Thanks for your input!
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