My new construction theatre layout... advice wanted - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 07-30-2014, 04:16 PM - Thread Starter
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My new construction theatre layout... advice wanted

Hi everyone, longtime lurker, first time posting in many years. I'm building a new house and want to build a theater area in the basement - and was hoping to get some feedback to see if anyone saw any glaring problems or had any suggestions for me.

First of all - a little about my goals and some of things important to me:

1) I watch a lot of sports in the area - often with my brother and father -- and we like to play pool during breaks in the action - so I'm looking for something slightly open so people playing pool can still see the game/communicate with people in the 'theater' area. We probably use the area for sports more than we do for movies these days - though that will probably change throughout the years as my little girls (ages 1, 3, and 5) get older. Probably will end up with 4 kiddos when all is said and done - so having a decent amount of seating in the area is a decently high priority.
2) I'm not super picky about acoustics... while obviously I'd like to make decisions that would help improve sound - that's not one of my top priorities.. In general I'm more concerned about video quality (and even then I'm not overly picky about things like color accuracy -- though I do tend to notice black levels :-)).
3) I'm not overly concerned about sound isolation - my kids bedrooms will be 2 stories up - and nobody is ever going to be on the main floor expecting quiet while I'm in the basement blaring a movie.

I'm planning on initially starting with some existing furnature in the area (a recliner, couch, and love seat) - but eventually want to add a row of theatre seats (probably on the riser - and will move the couch to the front row so someone who wants to lay down and watch can). I'm also throwing a 2nd TV in the corner of the room for use during things like march madness -- or watching sports while my little girls are watching a movie or something.

At this point still pretty flexible with everything -- builder hasn't even dug a hole for my house yet :-). I have a pretty big area to work with -- pretty much everything shown in that area currently is just a single large open area (which actually ends even further than is shown in this picture - cropped it to make it a little smaller and easier to read). So what say you all - am I on the right track at least? Not sure that it matters - but I'm not doing much of the work myself (other than wiring - I had enough fun for a lifetime finishing the basement in my current house myself 7 years ago when I didn't have kids :-). I'm also fortunate in that my builder is awesome and he told me he'll do things like build the riser for me free of charge.
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post #2 of 19 Old 07-30-2014, 05:06 PM
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get a bigger screen
build a smaller riser (6 1/2 ft deep is fine) and move the front row further from the screen.

If you haven't seen this theater your plans reminded me of it.



"The Get Away" Theater -under construction


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post #3 of 19 Old 07-30-2014, 05:12 PM
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that seating at the bottom of your diagram should be reserved for your mother-in-law, it will be lousy sight and sound. I wouldn't waste all that space at the bottom for one cheap seat. Make the room less wide and put something in the extra space. Bathroom?


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Last edited by BIGmouthinDC; 07-30-2014 at 05:45 PM.
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post #4 of 19 Old 07-30-2014, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MooTheKow View Post
I'm not overly concerned about sound isolation - my kids bedrooms will be 2 stories up - and nobody is ever going to be on the main floor expecting quiet while I'm in the basement blaring a movie.
this will be your fatal flaw in planning, you should have that Quote printed and framed, it will haunt you the rest of your days in this house. Plan for headphones.

Your little girls will eventually be teenagers and you will want them and their friends to hang out at your house rather than the alternatives. Some level of quiet on the first floor would be appreciated.


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Last edited by BIGmouthinDC; 07-30-2014 at 05:35 PM.
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post #5 of 19 Old 07-30-2014, 05:57 PM - Thread Starter
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First of all - thank you for taking the time to respond to my post - I appreciate it. I did see that theater 'The Get Away' -- it provided inspiration.

I was thinking about a bigger screen... I guess I only put 101" inches there because that's what I have in my current basement (with a cheap home-made screen using blackout cloth) -- but that was a smaller space -- around 19x17. It wasn't as deep and my ceiling was 8 feet whereas the ceilings in the new house will be 9 feet.

Smaller riser? Check, thanks.. So far as that chair goes - know it's lousy - figured I'd mostly just throw it in there to fill space.. figure it's not something that'd be used often.. more as overflow seating .. and probably would end up pulling it in closer to the riser. Also figured it's somewhere I could sit and watch football or basketball with the sound off while my girls are watching a kiddo movie. Really not sure what else to do with the extra space.. we already have a full-bath planned in the basement (further to the right of that drawing) - as well as 2 bedrooms. Maybe I should put cabinets against that wall? I'm not sure if I'd want my popcorn machine and mini fridge _in_ the 'theater' area or just outside.

Point about my attitude towards sound isolation is taken... I guess I've never had any issue in my current house in the last 7 years and my current basement didn't have any special anything done to account for sound isolation :-). In a perfect world I'd like them to insulate the ceiling, use sound isolation clips (or double-layered drywall with green glue).. and whatever else - but I'm trying to keep cost down where I can. House budget already has slightly spiraled out of control :-). Do you have any specific suggestions for things I should do that would be in the most-bang-for-your-buck territory? There are no bedrooms above the theater area in the house (the area that is a bit wider has a sun room and mud room above it.. and then above the area where I have the pool table is the kitchen). I've tried to do a bunch of reading on the topics (enough to have a passing familiarity with some of the options out there) - but there is a _lot_ of information out there - and I've had a hard time getting a gauge on what things are necessary if you're an audiophile concerned with optimal listening conditions and uniform sound throughout the room - and what would just be a practical/economical solution for just helping keep the sounds in the room at a reasonable level.

Also - this is slightly off-topic.. but I currently have a 7 year old Optoma HD80 projector. I've tried reading tons of reviews of new projectors and such - but given the age of the projector - would upgrading to a new budget projector (even something like the HD131Xe) be an improvement? It's hard for me to get a gauge about the quality of projectors out there because when most reviews do comparisons they make them to other newer models. Would the higher lumen output be necessary for using a bigger screen? And any suggestions for a screen size given the relative dimensions of the room I'm planning? 135")

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post #6 of 19 Old 07-31-2014, 03:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
that seating at the bottom of your diagram should be reserved for your mother-in-law, it will be lousy sight and sound. I wouldn't waste all that space at the bottom for one cheap seat. Make the room less wide and put something in the extra space. Bathroom?
Do you think cabinets in that area (with setting the popcorn machine on top - and a mini fridge either on top or built into the cabinets) would be a bad idea in that space? Might give me somewhere to put things like blankets and extra pillows...
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post #7 of 19 Old 07-31-2014, 03:31 PM
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People who have put popcorn machines (smoke, steam and smell) and refrigerators (noise) in their theaters generally regret it if they had alternatives


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post #8 of 19 Old 07-31-2014, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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People who have put popcorn machines (smoke, steam and smell) and refrigerators (noise) in their theaters generally regret it if they had alternatives
Good to know - won't do that then. Another question - was planning on trying to put a row of 4 seats on the riser.. Was leaning towards the 'tribute 1015' from rtheatres.com. It looks like it'd be about 126" wide. If I made my riser approximately 12' wide - it'd leave me about 9 inches of clearance on both sides. Is there any reason to have more than that on each side?
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post #9 of 19 Old 07-31-2014, 03:41 PM
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no, I've done less. how tall is the riser? if over 8 inches you will need an intermediate step


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post #10 of 19 Old 07-31-2014, 03:49 PM - Thread Starter
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no, I've done less. how tall is the riser? if over 8 inches you will need an intermediate step
Don't know - however tall it needs to be built :-). According to the riser height calculator - probably approximately 12" (working with 9 foot ceiling, 140" screen, and an HD131Xe projector that needs the top of the screen to be 11" from the center of the projector). How deep would the intermediate step need to be?
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post #11 of 19 Old 07-31-2014, 04:24 PM
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the step should be big enough to put your foot on, the riser needs a lip for carpeting so add that overhang to your calculation of step depth. It should be exactly 1/2 the height of the riser and I would add a step light to alert your guests that there is a step, I only turn mine on when I have company.

I like wide steps from the base of the seating to the front of the riser as shown in the attached.
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Last edited by BIGmouthinDC; 07-31-2014 at 05:02 PM.
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post #12 of 19 Old 07-31-2014, 04:30 PM - Thread Starter
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the step should be big enough to put your foot on, the riser needs a lip for carpeting so add that overhang to your calculation of step depth. It should be exactly 1/2 the height of the riser and I would add a step light to alert your guests that there is a step, I only turn my on when I have company.

I like wide steps from the base of the seating to the front of the riser as shown in the attached.
Ah - that makes sense - thanks for the quick drawing.. that isn't how I was picturing it in my head at all but that makes lots of sense like that.
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post #13 of 19 Old 07-31-2014, 04:33 PM
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Yes make it an inset step rather than something sticking out into the aisle. The latter is a trip hazard


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post #14 of 19 Old 07-31-2014, 04:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes make it an inset step rather than something sticking out into the aisle. The latter is a trip hazard
Yup, makes sense. Also - in my head the step was going along the entire side of the riser.. doesn't make sense to have a step into the side of the seats now that I think about it though :-).

Did you see my question earlier in the thread about sound isolation? Anything reasonably budget friendly i should be doing to get the most bang for my buck - or am I pretty much hosed if I'm looking to have the area as open as I am currently planning (with the two walk-ways and the open bar top area).
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post #15 of 19 Old 07-31-2014, 05:41 PM
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tough call on what you can do that is "cheap". First off don't use that crap lightweight drywall now being sold, get the heavy 5/8 drywall. That won't be that much more. Stick some insulation in the ceiling and theater walls. Now if you wanted to do it right you would hang two layers of 5/8 drywall on a clip and channel isolation system with Green Glue between layers. that would address the ceiling but there are many other issues. You would need to set aside $7 to 10K for the extra materials do do your basement "right". If it was a closed room theater $3 1/2-5K.


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post #16 of 19 Old 08-01-2014, 05:47 AM
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MooTheKow,
Check out my build in my signature. I also have a window in the back of my room for overflow. My overflow space is part of the kitchen, but the concept is the same for you. One thing I'd suggest is to build up the area behind the theater on a huge riser. If you have theater chairs on a riser in your 2nd row, it may be tough for anyone playing pool to get a good view of the screen. The other advantage to raising a larger area is now you can cover is with OSB subfloor and have it carpeted without a lot of worry of flooding. What I did was lay treated 2x4s flat on the ground and drove them into the concrete with tapcons and construction adhesive. Then you use regular lumber on top of that with your joists running perpendicular to the treated 2x4s.

The sound experts around here will probably have better opinions, but I'd suggest running extra speaker wire for your left,center,right speakers to your pool table area.

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post #17 of 19 Old 08-01-2014, 08:12 AM - Thread Starter
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MooTheKow,
The sound experts around here will probably have better opinions, but I'd suggest running extra speaker wire for your left,center,right speakers to your pool table area.
Thanks for the advice - and nice basement! I'm not 100% sure I understand what you're suggesting for the audio -- run extra speaker wire to hook up to in-ceiling speakers for a zone-two audio type thing?
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post #18 of 19 Old 08-01-2014, 08:33 AM
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Thanks for the advice - and nice basement! I'm not 100% sure I understand what you're suggesting for the audio -- run extra speaker wire to hook up to in-ceiling speakers for a zone-two audio type thing?
Yeah zone 2 for music or something. Possibly even duplicates of your LCR's, although that would change the resistance on the amp. I'm not sure how or if that would even work.

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post #19 of 19 Old 08-01-2014, 08:48 AM
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tough call on what you can do that is "cheap". First off don't use that crap lightweight drywall now being sold, get the heavy 5/8 drywall. That won't be that much more. Stick some insulation in the ceiling and theater walls. Now if you wanted to do it right you would hang two layers of 5/8 drywall on a clip and channel isolation system with Green Glue between layers. that would address the ceiling but there are many other issues. You would need to set aside $7 to 10K for the extra materials do do your basement "right". If it was a closed room theater $3 1/2-5K.
Good advice. In my case, I am also on a tight budget, so I used R19 in between the ceiling joists, a layer of 1/2" OSB followed by a layer of 1/2" drywall. It actually contains the sound really well, even without clips, channels, and green glue. The weak point is the HVAC vents, even though I used flexible ducts for them. I'm happy I didn't spend the extra $$ on more sound isolation, but it depends of if you can guess where your weak links will be. I also didn't do any backer boxes for my recessed lighting, which again i'm not regretting that decision. Mine is far from a dedicated space, however. All about making choices and compromises!

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