Prophcy0's build thread -advice wanted! (soundproofing, framing, etc.) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 08-20-2014, 11:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Prophcy0's build thread -advice wanted! (soundproofing, framing, etc.)

Hello folks!

I've dreamed of having a dedicated theater / gaming room for years, and now the time has finally come for me to start working on it. This room will be part of a larger build that includes finishing my basement.

Here is a picture of the overall layout I am shooting for:


Here is a link to an Imgur album containing renderings of my final target for the basement (colors/materials subject to change):
http://imgur.com/a/ryYSW

Here is an image of what I began with a few weeks ago:


The biggest obstacle starting off was the HVAC trunk line that ran right down the middle of the basement, as well as the ductwork that extended off of it to the registers on the first floor. The distance from the cement floor to the ceiling joist is only 8ft, so if I soffited around the HVAC trunk as-is, the theater room would simply not work out. After asking for advice in this thread, I decided to pay a contractor to move the trunk line to the front wall so that I could soffit around it without it getting in the way. Thanks to bruzer79 for this suggestion. I also took this opportunity to have a return vent installed in the basement (two supply vents were already supplying air to the basement, but no return existed).

Here is how the basement looks after the trunk line was moved:


Now, the real fun can begin. I want to begin framing soon, but I need to figure out several things on the front end before I can start. That said, I have some questions and would very much appreciate input from all of the very smart people on this forum.

FRAMING QUESTIONS

1) How to extend ceiling joists?

This is a pic of the ceiling in the future theater room:


As you can see, I am going to have to build the ceiling a good 8-9 inches lower than the floor joists in order to clear all of the obstructions. What is the best way for me to extend the floor joists down for framing the ceiling? I've tried all sorts of search terms to find an answer on Google, but I'm coming up short. I considered just doing a complete room-within-a-room and building a new ceiling based on the newly framed wall; however, unless I'm overlooking something, this will require me to drop the ceiling another 3.5" as the studs will have to run completely under all of the obstructions. If I can use the existing joists I can have the "extended" joists end close to where the obstructions end, and the drywall can sit almost flush against the lowest obstruction.

2) Can I frame directly against the cinderblock wall?

I assumed there would be one "right" way to frame out a basement wall... holy crap was I wrong. I've seen people argue for and against vapor barriers, fiberglass insulation, etc. etc. all across the internet. Here's the deal - I want to spend as little money on materials as possible, but still maintain quality. I've done a few vapor tests on the floor and walls of my basement, and I have absolutely no issue with moisture build-up on either the walls or ceiling. Is it okay for me to frame directly against the cinderblock walls and then fill in the studs with fiberglass insulation? If I can avoid spending money on XPS board it would definitely be preferable.

SOUNDPROOFING QUESTIONS

Ideally, I would like to soundproof the theater room as part of it will be directly under the master bedroom upstairs. However, I don't want to spend a ton of money on soundproofing if I can avoid it. I also want to preserve as much space within the room as possible, as the headroom with a single sheet of drywall right against the ceiling obstructions is going to be right at 86".

I was originally planning to use isolation clips all around, as well as 3 sheets of drywall. The more I think about it though, the more I'm considering just doing the standard one sheet of drywall all around with no iso clips (plus fiberglass insulation). I'm just not sure I want to shell out the extra money and then still have to stress out about flanking via the AV closet, ventilation, electrical panel that happens to be on the wall of the theater room, etc. Just how much of a difference does an extra sheet of drywall make? Or how about iso clips + 2 sheets of drywall? Is there any way for me to do a room-within-a-room and preserve the ceiling height?

Basically, I am trying to figure out if soundproofing is "worth it" in my situation. Realistically, I won't be cranking the sound up late at night anyway unless my wife is still awake. I can always use headphones late at night if absolutely necessary. I just don't want to regret skipping out on soundproofing later...

VENTILATION

Currently, there is one supply vent that provides air to the theater room area. I realize that this provides a means for sound to escape upstairs, but I think for comfort's sake I'm going to leave the supply vent where it's at. The return line for the basement is also in the theater room area, but I am going to have the HVAC guy come back out and move it into the closet that will sit to the right of the theater room (see the layout).

Also in the layout you'll see that I plan to have an AV closet in the back of the theater room. My intent is to have this closet vent hot air out into the rest of the finished basement using a few 120mm fans or something similar. Will this provide enough air circulation to keep the theater room comfortable? Should I worry about heat from the projector? Is it worth building a soffit for the projector in order to keep the heat out of the theater room?

I know that if I end up doing hardcore soundproofing I'll need to consider building a dead-vent for the "return" air.

SUBFLOOR / FLOORING

As I mentioned previously, I have had absolutely no moisture issues in the basement. As much as I want to save money, I still feel that a subfloor is worthwhile. After doing a lot of reading in this forum, I'm leaning toward using Delta FL. Does anyone have any comments for/against Delta FL? My current plan is to do laminate flooring everywhere but the theater room, and then (obviously) do carpeting in there.


I think that's all of the questions I have right now, although I'm sure I'll have plenty more throughout the build. Any input is much appreciated, even if it's unrelated to the questions I asked above.
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post #2 of 6 Old 08-21-2014, 05:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prophcy0 View Post
2) Can I frame directly against the cinderblock wall?

I assumed there would be one "right" way to frame out a basement wall... holy crap was I wrong. I've seen people argue for and against vapor barriers, fiberglass insulation, etc. etc. all across the internet. Here's the deal - I want to spend as little money on materials as possible, but still maintain quality. I've done a few vapor tests on the floor and walls of my basement, and I have absolutely no issue with moisture build-up on either the walls or ceiling. Is it okay for me to frame directly against the cinderblock walls and then fill in the studs with fiberglass insulation? If I can avoid spending money on XPS board it would definitely be preferable.
The way I understand it, you want to leave a few inch gap between the cement/cinder wall and your framing to allow for air circulation and to prevent mold.
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post #3 of 6 Old 08-24-2014, 03:31 PM - Thread Starter
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seraph - Thanks for the feedback. I've read the same thing. I've had a square sheet of aluminum foil taped to my basement wall for about three weeks now, and I haven't found a drop of moisture behind it. That's not to say that the walls will always be moisture proof, but if I can frame directly against the wall to save space then that would be great.

Anyone have any input on my other questions?
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post #4 of 6 Old 08-24-2014, 05:32 PM
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by most building codes untreated wood framing can not be in contact with concrete, therefore the gap.

As for how to extend ceiling joists you can just create a hanging structure of a bunch of 2x4s screwed (deck screws) to the sides of the joists, hanging down as far as you need

I'm still scratching my head on that duct work. It all seems to go from one side or the room to other, why isn't the main trunk on the other side of the room? Or split the trunk along both sides of the room.


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post #5 of 6 Old 08-24-2014, 07:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
by most building codes untreated wood framing can not be in contact with concrete, therefore the gap.
Makes sense. I'll check with the county codes department and see what they say.

Quote:
As for how to extend ceiling joists you can just create a hanging structure of a bunch of 2x4s screwed (deck screws) to the sides of the joists, hanging down as far as you need
I was hoping I could do something this simple. This should be relatively easy to do. I assume I would then just screw the "new" ceiling joists to the bottom part of the 2x4s?

Quote:
I'm still scratching my head on that duct work. It all seems to go from one side or the room to other, why isn't the main trunk on the other side of the room? Or split the trunk along both sides of the room.
It's hard to tell from the pics, but there are 7 supply lines on either side of the trunk line, for a total of 14. Originally the trunk ran right down the middle of the room, which would have put it right in the back of the future theater room. I had a contractor come out and move the trunk line to left side of the garage. The 7 supply lines are still there on the left side of the room, they're just super short runs that are hidden by the trunk.
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post #6 of 6 Old 09-08-2014, 07:14 PM - Thread Starter
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I just wanted to give this thread a bump to see if anyone has any additional input. I'm still doing some final planning before I get started on building.

Thanks!
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