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post #1 of 16 Old 09-01-2014, 11:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Home Theater Screw/Fastener Question

Hi Everyone,

I've been in the process of building a home theater for a few years... in between work, my wife and I having kids, etc., but now I am finally at a point where I can pick it back up and finish it once and for all. Just a quick background on my project. It's a basement home theater with stick walls built as a room inside a room but I used soundproofing clips and hat channel for the drywall to be. Now I'm ready to attach the drywall to the hat channel and I've read up that #8 Fine x 1-1/4" first layer then green glue followed by 1-3/4" second layer drywall is the way to go.

The question I have is where do you find the screws at? I've heard Grabber and Pro Twist are excellent brand but I cannot find #8 in those sizes. I only see #6 available. I also don't trust the regular HD/Lowe's brand just because well I have 4 kids running around who will use the home theater and I know the drywall will not fall down but I would rather overspend on the screws. Any help is much appreciated and I live in NJ. Thanks!!

Signed,
Want to Get It Done in NJ!
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post #2 of 16 Old 09-01-2014, 12:56 PM
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I use 1 1/4 and 2 inch screws from Grabber. They have a screw intended for light gauge metal studs. I really don't care about 6 versus 8 they are both going to work.
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post #3 of 16 Old 09-01-2014, 02:56 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll have to try that.

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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
I use 1 1/4 and 2 inch screws from Grabber. They have a screw intended for light gauge metal studs. I really don't care about 6 versus 8 they are both going to work.
Thanks! That's the way I was leaning. It seems like Grabber has a good quality product and checking their site there isn't anything close to #8 but the #6 is available in those sizes. I'll probably order the #6 's. Thanks again!
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post #4 of 16 Old 09-02-2014, 03:15 PM
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Congrats mykola, I'm actually just about at that point myself. I was eyeing screws at Lowes or Home Depot (I'm at both places so much recently it all blends together... Lome Wepot)

I'm using GRK 10x 2.5" for my IB3 Clips, GRK 8x 2" (Trim Head Screws) for my Channel Clips (they arrive today, so need to verify the heads aren't too small)
The design of the GRK is a godsend for trying to put them in the old wood I have. I swear the stuff is petrified! I've burned through several auger bits running electrical!

I was eyeing 1.5" Coarse Drywall Screws, and 1 5/8" Coarse Drywall screws for the two layers of Drywall.

After reading this thread, I'm thinking I might grab some 8x 1 1/4" and 8x 2" GRK instead.

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post #5 of 16 Old 09-02-2014, 03:35 PM
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I can't see the GRK trim head screw working with either clip without washers of some kind. The metal arm of the IB3 maybe but not the rubber bushing.
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post #6 of 16 Old 09-02-2014, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
I can't see the GRK trim head screw working with either clip without washers of some kind. The metal arm of the IB3 maybe but not the rubber bushing.
No, I used the R4 Multi-Purpose #10x 2.5" for the IB3, they were a bit long, I think 2" would have been perfect, but aside from that, they are great.

I was hoping to use the Trim ones with the IB-1 Clips. I thought I was supposed to get my IB1's today, but I got a bucket of green glue, looks like the rest of my order will arrive tomorrow.

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post #7 of 16 Old 09-03-2014, 10:57 AM
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Ok, as I was finishing up some electrical last night, I had a light bulb moment (you know, the moment you shock yourself and the lightbulb in your other hand lights up)...

One sheet of 5/8" sheetrock = 5/8"
Two sheets of 5/8" sheetrock = 1-1/4"
Hat Channel = 7/8"
Subfloor = 3/4"

One Sheetrock + Hat Channel = 1-1/2"
Two Sheetrock + Hat Channel = 2-1/8"

One Sheetrock + Subfloor = 1-3/8"
Two Sheetrock + Subfloor = 2"

While I think 1-1/2" and 2" will work fine for hat channels, it won't work for putting it between the joists. I'm trying to figure out what to get that I can do both with so I don't end up with a bunch of different screws. I'm thinking maybe 1" for single layer, and 1-3/4" for two laters.

Edit: Just got my IB1 clips. The Trim heads for the GRK products are too small. They will work in the smaller holes of the IB3, but not the larger holes or the bushing.

Does that sound reasonable? (And I don't trust my math)

Sean Hull

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Last edited by Dizzy49; 09-03-2014 at 02:16 PM. Reason: Added info for the GRK Trim screws
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post #8 of 16 Old 09-04-2014, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
I can't see the GRK trim head screw working with either clip without washers of some kind. The metal arm of the IB3 maybe but not the rubber bushing.
Ok Master, I see multiple scenarios for fastener needs. Would you enlighten us with your fastener recommendations/best practices?

Ok, so here are scenarios I can think of:

Sheetrock = 5/8"
Wood Stud = 3-3/8" x 1-3/8"
Channel = 7/8"
Subfloor = 3/4"

IB1 Clip
IB3 Bracket

One Layer Sheetrock to Wood Stud (Min 5/8", Max 4")
One Layer Sheetrock to Metal Stud (Min 5/8", Max ??)
One Layer Sheetrock to Clip/Channel (Min 5/8", Max 1-1/2")
One Layer Sheetrock to Subfloor between Joists (Min 5/8", Max 1-3/8")

Two Layer Sheetrock to Wood Stud (Min 1-1/4", Max 4-5/8")
Two Layer Sheetrock to Metal Stud (Min 1-1/4", Max ??)
Two Layer Sheetrock to Clip/Channel (Min 1-1/4", Max 2-1/8")
Two Layer Sheetrock to Subfloor between Joists (Min 1-1/4", Max 2")

#8 2" Coarse Thread screws are recommended to connect the IB1 clip to wood, and #8 1" to connect to steel.
#10 2-1/2" Coarse Thread screws are recommended to connect IB3 to wood, and #10 1-5/8" for steel (#8 minimum).

I haven't put up the IB1 clips, but the 2-1/2" was overkill for the IB3 brackets. While it's ok for the bushing, it goes through the joist by a good 1/2".

I was scouring my local big box stores for suitable screws. Lowes didn't have anything I liked, but Home Depot carries both the GRK and Grabber brand screws. Unfortunately the selection at my local store was quite small so I'm going to have to order screws. Personally I like the GRK brand, but I am not sure how suitable they are for the different scenarios. I know the Trim head screws are no good. I think the R4 Multi-Use ones are the best. They also appear to be coarse thread.

I looked at the Grabber website, and the number of options there are kind of overwhelming.

I'm also trying to figure out how many screws are needed. I don't know how many to put into a 4' x 8' panel for the different applications (stud, between joists, and on channels). So any help there would be great. I'm hoping to compile everything into a nice spreadsheet that will calculate various things for the project automatically.

Thanks!

Sean Hull

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post #9 of 16 Old 09-04-2014, 05:51 AM
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How thick is your sub floor and what time did the eastbound train leave the station.

metal channel 1 1/4 and 2 inch grabber screws designed for metal studs spaced 5 each 4 ft. (edges, middle and in-between.)
Wood studs 1 5/8 and 2 inch course thread 6-7 per 8 ft is fine or 4 per 4 ft if you install horizontally.
Subfloor, 1 1/4 course as long as those won't enter your actual flooring for the first layer 1 5/8 the second 5-6 screws per each 4 ft piece installed.

" I'm hoping to compile everything into a nice spreadsheet that will calculate various things for the project automatically." - funny
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post #10 of 16 Old 09-04-2014, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dizzy49 View Post
Just got my IB1 clips. The Trim heads for the GRK products are too small. They will work in the smaller holes of the IB3, but not the larger holes or the bushing.
Check out my post on this. I also found #8 GRK R4 screws to small for the IB-1s, so went with #9 2.5". Swerve's 9.2 Media room and Full Bar build

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
" I'm hoping to compile everything into a nice spreadsheet that will calculate various things for the project automatically." - funny
I understand this. I recently created a spreadsheet that calculated for me lengths for interior window trim so that based on the 2 window opening width and height measurements, as well as trim dimensions, it produced all my cut dimensions for the stool, apron, head and side casings. It was a fun little diversion in Excel from the usual mind-numbing tasks I perform as a desk jockey.
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post #11 of 16 Old 09-04-2014, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swervepf View Post
Check out my post on this. I also found #8 GRK R4 screws to small for the IB-1s, so went with #9 2.5". Swerve's 9.2 Media room and Full Bar build


I understand this. I recently created a spreadsheet that calculated for me lengths for interior window trim so that based on the 2 window opening width and height measurements, as well as trim dimensions, it produced all my cut dimensions for the stool, apron, head and side casings. It was a fun little diversion in Excel from the usual mind-numbing tasks I perform as a desk jockey.
Thanks Swervepf!

I picked up a box of 100x GRK #9 x 2" that I was going to use for the IB1. I still have a bunch of #10 x 2-1/2" left over as well that I may use. My house is nearly 80yrs old, and I swear the wood is petrified! I snapped several screws and burned up several auger and paddle bits running electrical. I have NO problems with the new framing though, only the old stuff.

What did you use to to attach the drywall to the channel?

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post #12 of 16 Old 09-04-2014, 06:12 PM
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my go to screw for clips/riser/stage are the Deckmate deck screws with the star drive heads. I also use my cordless Makita 18v Impact driver and between the driver and the "no strip" star drive, putting the screws into anything is painless. That driver is so strong you have to be careful not to over tighten the gaskets.
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post #13 of 16 Old 09-05-2014, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
my go to screw for clips/riser/stage are the Deckmate deck screws with the star drive heads. I also use my cordless Makita 18v Impact driver and between the driver and the "no strip" star drive, putting the screws into anything is painless. That driver is so strong you have to be careful not to over tighten the gaskets.
+1 to using an Impact driver!

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post #14 of 16 Old 09-05-2014, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dizzy49 View Post
My house is nearly 80yrs old, and I swear the wood is petrified! I snapped several screws and burned up several auger and paddle bits running electrical. I have NO problems with the new framing though, only the old stuff.

What did you use to to attach the drywall to the channel?
Same here! I snapped a few crap yellow zinc construction screws too in my 52 year old stubborn as a mule old fir joists. That's what led me to the GRK R4s too... the specs were above the requirements for screws in the IB-1s installation instructions. Agree that new lumber is like butter.

When I get to drywall, I'll be using what BIG suggests- Grabber fine thread drywall screws (for metal) 1 1/4" for first layer, and 2" for second. Luckily a local drywall supplier carries Grabber brand product, including Acoustical sealant which I really like.

+2 on the impact driver! I have my eye on this one, since I already have a Ryobi cordless hammer drill, but that job's already done, so I can't justify the expense right now. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18-...P881/203466912
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post #15 of 16 Old 09-05-2014, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swervepf View Post
Same here! I snapped a few crap yellow zinc construction screws too in my 52 year old stubborn as a mule old fir joists. That's what led me to the GRK R4s too... the specs were above the requirements for screws in the IB-1s installation instructions. Agree that new lumber is like butter.

When I get to drywall, I'll be using what BIG suggests- Grabber fine thread drywall screws (for metal) 1 1/4" for first layer, and 2" for second. Luckily a local drywall supplier carries Grabber brand product, including Acoustical sealant which I really like.

+2 on the impact driver! I have my eye on this one, since I already have a Ryobi cordless hammer drill, but that job's already done, so I can't justify the expense right now. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18-...P881/203466912

My brother used to work for the Dewalt, so before he left he bought all new 21v Dewalt tools, and gave me his 18v LiON Porter Cable stuff. Porter Cable has nearly identical internals as Dewalt, and the housings are very similar. Dewalt housings he said were all metal, and thicker than Porter Cable. I was just happy to have free tools!

I picked up #6 x 1" and #6 x 1-5/8" Grabber for Interior Wood from HD. Their selection of premium fasteners is quite poor. Not sure if it's all HD, or just my local store since I'm in a smaller town. I have to order the other stuff.

Speaking of Acoustical sealant, what are you using? I ran across a thread a while back regarding sealant, and it said to find things that were guaranteed for 50-75yr+, but the most I found was non-paintable stuff at 35yrs.

Sean Hull

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post #16 of 16 Old 09-05-2014, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dizzy49 View Post
My brother used to work for the Dewalt, so before he left he bought all new 21v Dewalt tools, and gave me his 18v LiON Porter Cable stuff. Porter Cable has nearly identical internals as Dewalt, and the housings are very similar. Dewalt housings he said were all metal, and thicker than Porter Cable. I was just happy to have free tools!

I picked up #6 x 1" and #6 x 1-5/8" Grabber for Interior Wood from HD. Their selection of premium fasteners is quite poor. Not sure if it's all HD, or just my local store since I'm in a smaller town. I have to order the other stuff.

Speaking of Acoustical sealant, what are you using? I ran across a thread a while back regarding sealant, and it said to find things that were guaranteed for 50-75yr+, but the most I found was non-paintable stuff at 35yrs.
any drywall screw for wood will be a coarse thread, thus a steeper thread pitch than a fine thread, which is for metal. You want the bite of the screw to have as much contact with the 25 gauge hat channel as possible, hence the shallower thread pitch of the fine thread. HD will have fine thread drywall screws, but they don't seem to have the 2" length in Grabber
http://www.homedepot.com/s/grabber%2...520fine?NCNI-5
They do have- Grip-Rite though... http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite...2?N=5yc1vZc2at

If not at your location, maybe they can order it in, or check out a drywall supplier in your area.

Here's the Grabber Acoustical sealant: http://www.grabberman.com/ItemDetail...d&itemid=GSCSF

I don't know if the years guarantee matters much.
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