Doug's Basement Theater - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 157Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #31 of 315 Old 11-29-2014, 07:41 AM - Thread Starter
d_c
AVS Forum Special Member
 
d_c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 2,344
Mentioned: 175 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 897 Post(s)
Liked: 1041
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
I like your plan. You might be able to reallocate inches here and there.

Nice, Tedd, I like it. I was wondering what to do with the rear and side surrounds. Moving the a/v closet somewhere else would give more room at the bar top behind the seating. My surrounds are up 9' in my media room, so I hope to find a way to get them closer to ear level.
d_c is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 315 Old 11-29-2014, 09:37 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 6,741
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1147 Post(s)
Liked: 437
Surrounds up higher are a solid design trick. Places the nearest seat further from the closest speaker.

You could put a 20x20" MA Slim5 av rack where I worked in a symmetrical side wall, in the extended
furnace room.


(And I see I left out your bar row lolly post...)
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	working the inches2.jpg
Views:	209
Size:	236.1 KB
ID:	391642  
Tedd is online now  
post #33 of 315 Old 12-02-2014, 02:02 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
asoofi1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NoVA
Posts: 1,722
Mentioned: 45 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 939 Post(s)
Liked: 443
Subscribed...looking forward to this build
asoofi1 is offline  
 
post #34 of 315 Old 12-03-2014, 07:12 PM - Thread Starter
d_c
AVS Forum Special Member
 
d_c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 2,344
Mentioned: 175 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 897 Post(s)
Liked: 1041
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
Surrounds up higher are a solid design trick. Places the nearest seat further from the closest speaker.

You could put a 20x20" MA Slim5 av rack where I worked in a symmetrical side wall, in the extended
furnace room.


(And I see I left out your bar row lolly post...)
This was the original place for the a/v rack, but I worry about moisture in there. I have a drain for the humidifier of the furnace a foot from that position. The lolly post you mentioned would be right on the end of the bartop behind the MLP. How could I ever forget about that little gem?! It won't be too bad there if that's what happens. That I can work with.

I have been working on the rooms behind the scenes in the basement. Getting all of the 800 gallons of saltwater tanks and equipment moved and organized takes quite a bit of planning, building, and moving things around. It will turn two big and complex reef systems into one and give me another 60 sq feet of space in the bedroom I'm putting in by doing so.

Patiently waiting for the structural engineer to send me some plans...
d_c is online now  
post #35 of 315 Old 12-04-2014, 05:08 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 6,741
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1147 Post(s)
Liked: 437
That wouldn't be the first time I've seen a lolly post at the bar end. It's a pretty solid solution. Years ago, I disguised
a lolly post in my space, with a low knee wall, some round plywood disks and Fleck Stone paint. People were always
surprised to hear it was a support post. I also used that paint to finish out the basement window boxes around my small
basement windows.


http://www.hawklabs.com/stone-flecks...top-paint.html


The drain could have a cover installed and the hose for the dehumidifier be drilled and given a
rubber grommet. The av rack could also be given a solid side, and a gasketed door for access. Then it would
be a self contained closet, in a bigger closet.


I always seemed to be constantly moving building materials out of my way, but a salt water aquarium move,
seems way more work.

Last edited by Tedd; 12-14-2014 at 06:30 AM.
Tedd is online now  
post #36 of 315 Old 12-13-2014, 08:02 PM - Thread Starter
d_c
AVS Forum Special Member
 
d_c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 2,344
Mentioned: 175 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 897 Post(s)
Liked: 1041
I have the plan: I will be able to fit everything in to the design without adding to the beam or bringing in a new one ($$$). I could go front to back of the room by having the beam reinforced and removing the poles, but the cost is more than the gain. So, I will be installing a pole in the front of the room that will hide behind the screen wall and another behind the seating at the end of the bar as discussed above. I will have to cut out holes in the floor to pour concrete piers for the poles, set the poles, and then the pole in the middle will be removed. This cost savings translates in to a nice PJ, AT screen, and two fp14000 clones. The pole at the end of the bar won't be in the way of the side or rear surrounds and won't be visible from the seated positions, so no big deal. I couldn't make the screen any wider because of the width of the room so the seats really can't be any further back to get the 45-52 degree angle from MLP to the screen.

The MLP will be 11'6" from the screen wall.
I will use 50 degrees for the left and right speakers.
I will have a 45 degree viewing angle to the screen
I am thinking a 130" AT Seymour XD screen from Jamestown Screens
Epson PL 3500 PJ

The surround speakers (DIYSG Volt-8) will be angled toward the seats from the soffits at the ceiling which isn't ideal, but it will have to do. They will be 7' from the floor. I was hoping to get them in a position to be 2' above ear level. I will use some flanking nearfield subs as end tables, possibly small sealed Sundown zV4 18s. The other subs and mains I'll figure out down the road after the rest is complete.

Last edited by d_c; 12-13-2014 at 08:15 PM.
d_c is online now  
post #37 of 315 Old 12-22-2014, 07:18 PM - Thread Starter
d_c
AVS Forum Special Member
 
d_c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 2,344
Mentioned: 175 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 897 Post(s)
Liked: 1041
Soundproofing the ceiling:

Is gluing sheetrock to the ceiling between the floor joists going to help much for mass loading?

Should I use 1/2" OSB before clips and two layers of sheetrock and GG, or just use the clips and sheetrock?
d_c is online now  
post #38 of 315 Old 12-24-2014, 01:46 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
popalock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lake Dallas, TX
Posts: 5,047
Mentioned: 157 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1315 Post(s)
Liked: 1814
Send a message via Skype™ to popalock
Quote:
Originally Posted by d_c View Post
Soundproofing the ceiling:

Is gluing sheetrock to the ceiling between the floor joists going to help much for mass loading?

Should I use 1/2" OSB before clips and two layers of sheetrock and GG, or just use the clips and sheetrock?
I'm not a doctor...but I watch a lot of House. I believe House would OSB the ***** out of your basement ceiling.
asoofi1 likes this.
popalock is offline  
post #39 of 315 Old 12-24-2014, 02:55 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
asoofi1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NoVA
Posts: 1,722
Mentioned: 45 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 939 Post(s)
Liked: 443
Quote:
Originally Posted by d_c View Post
Soundproofing the ceiling:

Is gluing sheetrock to the ceiling between the floor joists going to help much for mass loading?

Should I use 1/2" OSB before clips and two layers of sheetrock and GG, or just use the clips and sheetrock?
I've got wood flooring above the ht room and every sound comes thru, so I had some guys recommend putting layer of gg and drywall between the floor above and joists...to add the mass as you mention...then insulation...then continue with the normal whisper clips/hat channel/ddgg ceiling.

Seems like a lot more work and I think the difference may be measurably low...wrapping basically every joist with gg/drywall. I wonder if 3 layers of sheetrock on the ceiling would have similar effect and be easier to do.
asoofi1 is offline  
post #40 of 315 Old 12-24-2014, 03:14 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
asoofi1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NoVA
Posts: 1,722
Mentioned: 45 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 939 Post(s)
Liked: 443
Quote:
Originally Posted by d_c View Post
Soundproofing the ceiling:

Is gluing sheetrock to the ceiling between the floor joists going to help much for mass loading?

Should I use 1/2" OSB before clips and two layers of sheetrock and GG, or just use the clips and sheetrock?
I've got wood flooring above the ht room and every sound comes thru, so I had some guys recommend putting layer of gg and drywall between the floor above and joists...to add the mass as you mention...then insulation...then continue with the normal whisper clips/hat channel/ddgg ceiling.

Seems like a lot more work and I think the difference may be measurably low...wrapping basically every joist with gg/drywall. I wonder if 3 layers of sheetrock on the ceiling would have similar effect and be a lot easier to do.
asoofi1 is offline  
post #41 of 315 Old 12-24-2014, 04:13 PM - Thread Starter
d_c
AVS Forum Special Member
 
d_c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 2,344
Mentioned: 175 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 897 Post(s)
Liked: 1041
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post
I'm not a doctor...but I watch a lot of House. I believe House would OSB the ***** out of your basement ceiling.
Shoot, you crazy! I listen to a lot of House.

Quote:
Originally Posted by asoofi1 View Post
I've got wood flooring above the ht room and every sound comes thru, so I had some guys recommend putting layer of gg and drywall between the floor above and joists...to add the mass as you mention...then insulation...then continue with the normal whisper clips/hat channel/ddgg ceiling.

Seems like a lot more work and I think the difference may be measurably low...wrapping basically every joist with gg/drywall. I wonder if 3 layers of sheetrock on the ceiling would have similar effect and be easier to do.
What did you end up doing?

Yep, wood floor directly above too and there will be ridiculously loud subs upstairs and down. I have two Gjallarhorns upstairs and have just acquired two Stereo Integrity HS24 for the HT downstairs, along with whatever else I decide for nearfield.
d_c is online now  
post #42 of 315 Old 12-25-2014, 09:34 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
asoofi1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NoVA
Posts: 1,722
Mentioned: 45 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 939 Post(s)
Liked: 443
^^
I haven't done either because I may not even add whisper clips, so might just keep current sheetrock layer and just add the gg and one more layer of sheetrock. But if I were to tear down the ceiling and fill up gg/dd between the joists, my concern would be the plumbing/wiring/insulation/etc I would have to work with, let alone the maze of drywall tetris.

In your situation, I think whisper clips, hat channels, then 3 flat layers of sheetrock will have plenty of mass...but hanging 3 layers is also bit of a challenge...reaching a joist will just require longer nails and making sure it's all secure...that is a lot of weight on top.

You're probably reducing at least 6 dB with each layer of sheetrock/gg.

With your GH and the 24's, you'll probably be not running both full tilt at all times either....the basement will be the only place you would worry about disturbing civilians in living areas above. With the GH in the main area of your house, everyone is partying it up whether they like it or not

Last edited by asoofi1; 12-25-2014 at 09:39 AM.
asoofi1 is offline  
post #43 of 315 Old 01-07-2015, 03:42 PM - Thread Starter
d_c
AVS Forum Special Member
 
d_c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 2,344
Mentioned: 175 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 897 Post(s)
Liked: 1041
I spoke with John from Soundproifing Supply today and decided to go with the two layers of rock between the joists and clips and two layers of rock. I'll get at least some gg ordered tomorrow so I can get started on the mass layers.

Kind of the chicken before the egg here, but I received the rest of my 6 LAB15s today for my mains. I love getting boxes delivered!

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420674135.926723.jpg
Views:	835
Size:	274.8 KB
ID:	465617  

Last edited by d_c; 01-23-2015 at 11:12 AM.
d_c is online now  
post #44 of 315 Old 01-07-2015, 04:17 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
asoofi1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NoVA
Posts: 1,722
Mentioned: 45 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 939 Post(s)
Liked: 443
If 4 layers of sheetrock isn't enough...it's only because of the subs you'll be running. Semi-good failure to have
asoofi1 is offline  
post #45 of 315 Old 01-07-2015, 04:19 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
zgeneral's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,630
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 874 Post(s)
Liked: 213
If you're putting that much into it, you might want to look at moving to Colorado. They've got something legal there that will push your movies to the next level.
zgeneral is offline  
post #46 of 315 Old 01-07-2015, 04:38 PM - Thread Starter
d_c
AVS Forum Special Member
 
d_c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 2,344
Mentioned: 175 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 897 Post(s)
Liked: 1041
Quote:
Originally Posted by asoofi1 View Post
If 4 layers of sheetrock isn't enough...it's only because of the subs you'll be running. Semi-good failure to have

This and double sheets of rock up the stairwell, weatherstripping around the door, another 3/4" of mdf on the door, and hvac treatments. That's about as crazy as I'm going to get with sound isolation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zgeneral View Post
If you're putting that much into it, you might want to look at moving to Colorado. They've got something legal there that will push your movies to the next level.

What's that?!
d_c is online now  
post #47 of 315 Old 01-12-2015, 09:04 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jedimastergrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,297
Mentioned: 121 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 665 Post(s)
Liked: 420
Doug I went ahead and did the mass and gg on the subfloor between the joists. Double layer with gg applied on first layer and between the layers. I can't exactly measure before and after. I did clips and channel on ceiling too. I have a wood floor kitchen above and it was very loud before. After just the subfloor treatment but before the clips I would describe the sound as more muffled. I don't think it will be magic for you but I think you are making the right choice. Just do what you can with the knowledge that those sounds coming through the wood floor are very hard to stop and heavy footfalls will be heard on quiet scenes.

Of course nothing you can do within reason to stop the g horns from getting through especially below 30 Hz.

Congrats on those 24's!!! I still think it will be hard to top what the g horns are doing in their wheelhouse. As you know I am a big fan of those type of subs.

I really want to make it over there sometime. Do you have a timetable you are shooting for with this project?
jedimastergrant is online now  
post #48 of 315 Old 01-12-2015, 12:19 PM - Thread Starter
d_c
AVS Forum Special Member
 
d_c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 2,344
Mentioned: 175 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 897 Post(s)
Liked: 1041
Doug's Basement Theater

Thanks for the input Grant. I'm hoping for what you describe and will be very happy if I could do better. My problem now is that the 60" lcd upstairs vibrates so bad that I am about ready to chuck it in the trash. Big subs = constant rattles control. I'm really excited about the 24s and realize that they will be different than the horns. I think better for music, but less spl. I hope to level the playing field for them by preparing a better room.

I would like to get the beam in, mass layers up, and electric service in before summer. The whole thing should be finished by June 2016. There is a lot to do, especially when doing it all myself. I enjoy the process, so I stretch it out probably longer than I need to!

Anytime you have free, let me know and I'd love to have you over.

Last edited by d_c; 01-12-2015 at 12:26 PM.
d_c is online now  
post #49 of 315 Old 01-13-2015, 09:06 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jedimastergrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,297
Mentioned: 121 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 665 Post(s)
Liked: 420
Rattles can be tough. I have had a few and still have a few from time to time.

For my projector stand I used some basic sound isolation principles and it worked but it is also outside the room which is already decoupled. I can't stand it when the projector shakes and the image moves. Takes me right out of the movie so I vowed this would not be an issue in my own room.

But anyway I used mass to make the stand itself with thick plywood. Then decoupled the stand from the walls with IB3 clips. Then I placed a layer of serenity mat on the platform and the projector on top. I was prepared to add a thick layer of steel under the mat if necessary as well. Not sure if any of that may be useful for your lcd but there you go.
jedimastergrant is online now  
post #50 of 315 Old 01-13-2015, 08:32 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
asoofi1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NoVA
Posts: 1,722
Mentioned: 45 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 939 Post(s)
Liked: 443
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post
Rattles can be tough. I have had a few and still have a few from time to time.

For my projector stand I used some basic sound isolation principles and it worked but it is also outside the room which is already decoupled. I can't stand it when the projector shakes and the image moves. Takes me right out of the movie so I vowed this would not be an issue in my own room.

But anyway I used mass to make the stand itself with thick plywood. Then decoupled the stand from the walls with IB3 clips. Then I placed a layer of serenity mat on the platform and the projector on top. I was prepared to add a thick layer of steel under the mat if necessary as well. Not sure if any of that may be useful for your lcd but there you go.
This is one concern that makes me wonder if I should go through demolishing the room to decouple/gg/dd my room...will my dual shifters continue to rattle the vents as they already do? The sealing of the room is less of a concern because no one is bothered in the house...Honestly, except when I demo at reference for a fellow AVS member...and the kitchen above goes thru a mild earthquake.
asoofi1 is offline  
post #51 of 315 Old 01-13-2015, 10:07 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
popalock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lake Dallas, TX
Posts: 5,047
Mentioned: 157 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1315 Post(s)
Liked: 1814
Send a message via Skype™ to popalock
Quote:
Originally Posted by asoofi1 View Post
This is one concern that makes me wonder if I should go through demolishing the room to decouple/gg/dd my room...will my dual shifters continue to rattle the vents as they already do? The sealing of the room is less of a concern because no one is bothered in the house...Honestly, except when I demo at reference for a fellow AVS member...and the kitchen above goes thru a mild earthquake.
You can Dynamat (add mass) to your vents like @lukeamdman did in his build. Shold help tremendously in that regard.
asoofi1 likes this.
popalock is offline  
post #52 of 315 Old 01-14-2015, 08:29 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
lukeamdman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Burnsville, MN
Posts: 3,523
Mentioned: 134 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1229 Post(s)
Liked: 1516
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post
You can Dynamat (add mass) to your vents like @lukeamdman did in his build. Shold help tremendously in that regard.
Yep, I put Dynamat on every piece of duct inside the HT room. Tremendous improvement and worth every penny.

This seemed to get the most Dynamat for the money:

http://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-10455-...sin=B00020CB2S
asoofi1 likes this.
lukeamdman is offline  
post #53 of 315 Old 01-14-2015, 08:42 AM - Thread Starter
d_c
AVS Forum Special Member
 
d_c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 2,344
Mentioned: 175 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 897 Post(s)
Liked: 1041
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post
Yep, I put Dynamat on every piece of duct inside the HT room. Tremendous improvement and worth every penny.

This seemed to get the most Dynamat for the money:

http://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-10455-...sin=B00020CB2S
It helped the sound upstairs or the rattling that you could hear from the vents while you are downstairs?
d_c is online now  
post #54 of 315 Old 01-14-2015, 09:15 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
lukeamdman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Burnsville, MN
Posts: 3,523
Mentioned: 134 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1229 Post(s)
Liked: 1516
Quote:
Originally Posted by d_c View Post
It helped the sound upstairs or the rattling that you could hear from the vents while you are downstairs?
Since the duct is rattling less and therefore making less noise, it did help with the amount that made it upstairs, but my primary goal was the rattling and resonances from it inside the room. After the Dynamat, I hear nothing from the duct work at any volume.
lukeamdman is offline  
post #55 of 315 Old 01-14-2015, 11:27 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jedimastergrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,297
Mentioned: 121 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 665 Post(s)
Liked: 420
Quote:
Originally Posted by asoofi1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post
Rattles can be tough. I have had a few and still have a few from time to time.

For my projector stand I used some basic sound isolation principles and it worked but it is also outside the room which is already decoupled. I can't stand it when the projector shakes and the image moves. Takes me right out of the movie so I vowed this would not be an issue in my own room.

But anyway I used mass to make the stand itself with thick plywood. Then decoupled the stand from the walls with IB3 clips. Then I placed a layer of serenity mat on the platform and the projector on top. I was prepared to add a thick layer of steel under the mat if necessary as well. Not sure if any of that may be useful for your lcd but there you go.
This is one concern that makes me wonder if I should go through demolishing the room to decouple/gg/dd my room...will my dual shifters continue to rattle the vents as they already do? The sealing of the room is less of a concern because no one is bothered in the house...Honestly, except when I demo at reference for a fellow AVS member...and the kitchen above goes thru a mild earthquake.
Is it the diffusers or the duct? I would not demolish the room just for that.
jedimastergrant is online now  
post #56 of 315 Old 01-14-2015, 08:29 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
asoofi1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NoVA
Posts: 1,722
Mentioned: 45 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 939 Post(s)
Liked: 443
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post
Is it the diffusers or the duct? I would not demolish the room just for that.
The duct.

There's a duct in the ceiling that runs parallel right above the screen, where both shifters sit behind...so I can hear the shaking with along with the two vents that exit in floor above...and then the four can lights in the ht room of course tremble with just the right note.
asoofi1 is offline  
post #57 of 315 Old 01-14-2015, 08:57 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
lukeamdman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Burnsville, MN
Posts: 3,523
Mentioned: 134 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1229 Post(s)
Liked: 1516
Quote:
Originally Posted by asoofi1 View Post
The duct.

There's a duct in the ceiling that runs parallel right above the screen, where both shifters sit behind...so I can hear the shaking with along with the two vents that exit in floor above...and then the four can lights in the ht room of course tremble with just the right note.
I have canned lights as well, and anywhere it was possible for metal or plastic to rattle on them, I'd apply a few layers of tape. Worked like a charm.
lukeamdman is offline  
post #58 of 315 Old 01-15-2015, 06:22 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
jedimastergrant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,297
Mentioned: 121 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 665 Post(s)
Liked: 420
Quote:
Originally Posted by asoofi1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post
Is it the diffusers or the duct? I would not demolish the room just for that.
The duct.

There's a duct in the ceiling that runs parallel right above the screen, where both shifters sit behind...so I can hear the shaking with along with the two vents that exit in floor above...and then the four can lights in the ht room of course tremble with just the right note.
Sorry man that's a tough one. Obviously the sure fire solution is to replace it all with flex duct. If there was a way to do this without tearing up the ceiling drywall wouldn't that be nice.

I would hesitate to put much money into sound isolation unless you are staying in the house for a very long time.

I would consider a surgical strike of cutting the drywall out of one joist space so you can put flex duct in. and paying a really good drywall guy to patch it. After paint it should look just like new. Be wary of lower cfm of flex duct.
jedimastergrant is online now  
post #59 of 315 Old 01-16-2015, 03:32 PM - Thread Starter
d_c
AVS Forum Special Member
 
d_c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 2,344
Mentioned: 175 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 897 Post(s)
Liked: 1041
Some pre soundproofing measurements.

Upstairs media room noise floor:
54db

Downstairs noise floor:
58.8db



Top line is used as the baseline for the basement at the MLP. It is measured at the MLP in the media room upstairs at -10 reference. The measurements below it are with the same sweep on the subs upstairs but measured downstairs. They are at a few different places in the basement near the MLP at standing and sitting levels. I could not get close to the proposed MLP in the basement since my USB cable was a bit short, but the three measurements are a good mix of the best and worst scenarios down there.

I also ran some test tones downstairs on a pair of Titan 48 horns and measured at the MLP first downstairs for the in-room SPL, then I measured again upstairs at the MLP while playing the same test tones at the same volume. I measured with the door to the basement open and closed.

Downstairs SPL from the T48 at the MLP:
35hz 113db
40hz 107db
80hz 115db
100hz 112db

Upstairs SPL at the MLP, door open:
35hz 87db
40hz 84db
80hz 87db
100hz 88db

Upstairs SPL at the MLP, door closed:
35hz 91db
40hz 85db
80hz 86db
100hz 88.5db

The goal of this test is to remeasure after mass is fixed to the ceiling and then again afterwords when additional layers are added with decoupling, then again with the door mass-loaded and gasket seals.
asoofi1 likes this.

Last edited by d_c; 01-18-2015 at 05:03 PM.
d_c is online now  
post #60 of 315 Old 01-18-2015, 05:47 PM - Thread Starter
d_c
AVS Forum Special Member
 
d_c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 2,344
Mentioned: 175 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 897 Post(s)
Liked: 1041
I have an approved letter from the structural engineer finally and received two pails of Green Glue today, so I have enough to keep me busy til spring. The max span approved was 14'8" with no extra support to the beam, so even more than the original estimate.
d_c is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off