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post #61 of 321 Old 01-19-2015, 04:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post
Yep, I put Dynamat on every piece of duct inside the HT room. Tremendous improvement and worth every penny.

This seemed to get the most Dynamat for the money:

http://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-10455-...sin=B00020CB2S
Did you completely cover the ducts? Mine are about 3' wide and 15' through the room, so that would be pretty pricey. I wonder if the silver insulated duct wrap would do the trick.
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post #62 of 321 Old 01-19-2015, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by d_c View Post
Did you completely cover the ducts? Mine are about 3' wide and 15' through the room, so that would be pretty pricey. I wonder if the silver insulated duct wrap would do the trick.
I used almost 2 packs that each contain (9) 18"x32" sheets. So it was about $280 worth of dynamat and I have a little leftover.

I covered the entire bottom of the duct and most of the sides. The supply duct ran the entire ~23' length of the room, but the return air only went about about 10' in the room.
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post #63 of 321 Old 01-19-2015, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post
I used almost 2 packs that each contain (9) 18"x32" sheets. So it was about $280 worth of dynamat and I have a little leftover.

I covered the entire bottom of the duct and most of the sides. The supply duct ran the entire ~23' length of the room, but the return air only went about about 10' in the room.
I've used Fatmat in my car in the past and it does the same damn thing as dynamat for about 1/2 the price...Hell it's even a bit thicker (not sure if it is more dense?). For about $50 more, you could get 100ft^2 vs the 54ft^2 of dynamat that Mr. Money Bags recommended...

Linky: http://www.amazon.com/FatMat-Self-Ad...sound+deadener
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post #64 of 321 Old 01-20-2015, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by popalock View Post
I've used Fatmat in my car in the past and it does the same damn thing as dynamat for about 1/2 the price...Hell it's even a bit thicker (not sure if it is more dense?). For about $50 more, you could get 100ft^2 vs the 54ft^2 of dynamat that Mr. Money Bags recommended...

Linky: http://www.amazon.com/FatMat-Self-Ad...sound+deadener
Wow, thank you so much for telling me about this stuff before I spent twice as much on Dynamat...
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post #65 of 321 Old 01-20-2015, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post
Wow, thank you so much for telling me about this stuff before I spent twice as much on Dynamat...
My bad brotha! I was following your thread, but missed the any mention to you wanting to pick up dynamat. I checked back and BAM dynamat was already applied. You work with Ninja speed.
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post #66 of 321 Old 01-20-2015, 08:17 PM
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My bad brotha! I was following your thread, but missed the any mention to you wanting to pick up dynamat. I checked back and BAM dynamat was already applied. You work with Ninja speed.
Yeah I had to move on it. I decided at the end of May that I'd have the room finished for the GTG in July, and I did with the exception of the ceiling. Carpet went in only a few days before the meet.
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post #67 of 321 Old 01-21-2015, 07:52 AM - Thread Starter
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That was a lightning speed ht build. It's taken me two weeks painting my center channel... This basement is going to take forever.
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post #68 of 321 Old 01-21-2015, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_c View Post
That was a lightning speed ht build. It's taken me two weeks painting my center channel... This basement is going to take forever.
I told myself I'd be done a year ago... I've yet to break down a wall!

But the way you redid your main level, I'm pretty sure you'll be faster than majority of us with the basement.
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post #69 of 321 Old 02-16-2015, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Mass loading the ceiling has begun! 22 sheets of 5/8 Sheetrock and 2 buckets of Green Glue and a crapload of screws are well on their way. I'm a little over 1/4 of the way finished and I think half of that material ended up in my eyes.



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post #70 of 321 Old 02-27-2015, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Doug's Basement Theater

Finished with the mass loading. Some tricks I found to speed things up: put my screws on a 5 gallon bucket lid sitting on a bar stool instead of trying to get them out of a tool belt pouch. I have two lids. One for 1 1/4" screws and another for the 2" screws. I was at least twice as fast with this method. I premeasured each piece and subtracted 1/4" for the cut, then did a quick test fit before adding the gg. I stacked the pieces cut for that joist space on a 5 gal bucket to apply the gg so I didn't have to bend over to apply the glue. I also found a use for my thtlp. I put it on a couple of furniture dollies and use it as scaffolding. Very sturdy, wide, and just the right height.

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post #71 of 321 Old 02-27-2015, 09:19 AM - Thread Starter
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I ripped out the wall around my hvac room. The previous home owners had this space built larger for storage, but I will be slimming it up to accommodate a larger screen wall. 12' wide wall is now 14' wide.

before:



after:



The furnace vents are a mess and use more space than they need to, so I will tidy this up before doing any framing. I've been trying to think about how to do this framing while keeping it decoupled. I'm thinking box this part in and use the clips and channel. This will all be within the screen wall.

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post #72 of 321 Old 03-15-2015, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
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My SI hs24 subs have just been built and are shipping this week. Here's the pic Nick from SI sent me with them complete on his workbench:

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post #73 of 321 Old 03-15-2015, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by d_c View Post
My SI hs24 subs have just been built and are shipping this week. Here's the pic Nick from SI sent me with them complete on his workbench:

Attachment 603321
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post #74 of 321 Old 03-16-2015, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post
I've used Fatmat in my car in the past and it does the same damn thing as dynamat for about 1/2 the price...Hell it's even a bit thicker (not sure if it is more dense?). For about $50 more, you could get 100ft^2 vs the 54ft^2 of dynamat that Mr. Money Bags recommended...
Even cheaper than Fatmat and from what I can see, comparing them side-by-side, they are identical is Peel and Seal from Home Depot or Lowes. It is for repairing flashing, but a lot of car audio guys have been using it because it has the exact some properties as Dynamat and such.
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post #75 of 321 Old 03-20-2015, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by d_c View Post
My SI hs24 subs have just been built and are shipping this week. Here's the pic Nick from SI sent me with them complete on his workbench:

Attachment 603321
What a pretty picture, I wish I was rich . Did you get those baddest of the bad boys yet? I'd like to hear and see them soon, since I live pretty close to you, about 20 min, will bring good beer
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post #76 of 321 Old 03-20-2015, 07:58 PM - Thread Starter
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What a pretty picture, I wish I was rich . Did you get those baddest of the bad boys yet? I'd like to hear and see them soon, since I live pretty close to you, about 20 min, will bring good beer

Not yet, maybe bring beer Monday and they will deliver, and if they don't, repeat Wednesday and days thereafter til they do arrive!
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post #77 of 321 Old 03-21-2015, 11:03 AM
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Not yet, maybe bring beer Monday and they will deliver, and if they don't, repeat Wednesday and days thereafter til they do arrive!
I'm in
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post #78 of 321 Old 11-19-2015, 05:43 PM - Thread Starter
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It's been awhile since an update, but I'm digging back in to this project finally since nothing has been done to the room after the double drywall and Green Glue was installed between the rafters. I did do a couple of productive things this summer: buy the two LMS Ultras for the Gjallarhorns that have yet to be built and also the B&C 21SW152-4 drivers for the Othorns, which I did build and they are AWE-SOME!

Here's my to do list for the winter:
- replace the 40 year old electric panel with a bigger one with more breaker space
- move the beam support poles
- cut in a shower drain
- cut in a window


some pics of the new Othorns for the HT, LINK to the build:













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post #79 of 321 Old 12-31-2015, 04:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally getting back to working on the HT...

I have marked out placement of the new walls on the floors with some blue tape and am just tidying up measurements and seat placement before I cut holes in the floor for moving the lally poles. My new MLP keeps getting closer to the screen: now I'm at 10', so I'm wondering if I should make some changes to screen size. I'm pretty sure I will get the Panasonic PT AE8000U. Will 19' from the screen be acceptable throw for this unit and a 140" screen? I'm planning a mounting position for the PJ within the back wall.
@Archaea - Which format is your screen, size, and throw? I know I've asked you ten times already...
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post #80 of 321 Old 01-02-2016, 01:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm $39 in so far covering the ducts with poor-man's Dynamat. I used peel and seal from HD. There was a metallic echo before, now just a thud when I tap on it. I'll test room vibrations with my othorns full-tilt before I cover anything up with osb.

I also ran a couple of insulated flexible ducts across the room for vents upstairs.

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post #81 of 321 Old 01-02-2016, 01:40 PM
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post #82 of 321 Old 01-02-2016, 01:48 PM - Thread Starter
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That will also help with heat Loss in your house. I would also recommend mastic around every joint of duct work to improve your your flow to each room. You can save a little on your heating and cooling bills to.

Is mastic a product or do you mean any caulk that will adhere to sheet metal? I put the peel and seal on the joints in the photo because they vibrate, but actually sealing them is a good idea too while I'm at it.
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post #83 of 321 Old 01-02-2016, 01:54 PM
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Doug's Basement Theater

The mastic is like a putty peanut butter milk shake stuff you can buy the menards or Home Depot in the hvac section of the store. It goes on wet and dries hard. It seals all the little leaks in your sheet metal and improves cfm flow though out your house. Many years ago when I did hvac work we used this in all the houses. It's around 11.99 per bucket. Again there's so many joints in your duct work and if you do this to everything and also have your hvac system balanced so every room in your house gets to the temp all at the same time were you set your thermostat at you save a lot of money in your bills.
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post #84 of 321 Old 01-14-2016, 09:42 AM
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Any more changes since the second?

Are you leaving the city out of your finishing?
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post #85 of 321 Old 01-17-2016, 01:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Any more changes since the second?

Are you leaving the city out of your finishing?

Yes, I have ripped out the rest of the basement walls. I have chopped up all the old paneling and sheet rock and taking it down to the city dump. I just went down to take a photo of it but there is so much crap in the way you can barely tell that it's different. But, I am ready to rough in one of the bedrooms and put a door on so that I can store all the extra junk in there while I work on the HT space. It will be huge getting all that stuff out of my way so that I can stop moving things two and three times.
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post #86 of 321 Old 01-18-2016, 07:01 AM
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It will be huge getting all that stuff out of my way so that I can stop moving things two and three times.
Truer words could not be spoken. I cringe to think of all the time I have wasted moving things multiple times....... I could be done buy now..... ok well maybe not but you get the point

One day I will start the new theater....... one day..... THAT DAY HAS ARRIVED
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post #87 of 321 Old 03-16-2016, 10:16 AM - Thread Starter
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I posted this in the soundproofing thread too, but just want to get any pros and cons from you guys of this decision I think I have finally made. I have added dd/gg between my ceiling joists, but have decided to NOT use clips/channel/OSB/gg/dw to finish the rooms walls and ceilings. Here's why -

In the HT space:
1 - there are doorways to a bathroom, bedroom, garage
2 - an opening to the stairwell up (door at top, can't add one to the bottom)
3 - a fireplace that will be within the room (sealing issue around the rock)
4 - HVAC within the area of the HT (another door)
5 - I can't close the room off for a single door "dedicated" space

The original plan was to follow the standard soundproofing methods for a dedicated room, but I think that there are so many areas for the sound to escape from this large room even after all these steps that it wouldn't be worth the extra money and enormous amount of extra time trying to decouple the whole space. I think it might all be done with little improvement in sound isolation outside of the room since the amount of bass I have will never be contained. The Soundproofing company guy (John?) advised that there are too many obstacles from having the stairwell and other rooms alone. He advised that adding mass like I have done is probably the only thing I can do to that would have real benefit. Maybe I should follow this advice and not waste my time with it? He could sell me products but advised against, so that has worth... I would rather spend the time and money on room treatments, audio, and video after hearing similar spaces sounding just as good as enclosed dedicated rooms.

Thoughts?
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post #88 of 321 Old 03-16-2016, 12:11 PM
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Tough spot. I mean if the sound guys are saying it's not going to work out, their job being to sell you sound proofing supplies.... well that's not a great sign. For the stairwell, was adding more mass to the door considered, along with sealing it up? Could you beef up and double dry wall in the stair well as well?

I think I've only been in one sound treated room I believe, that being Grant's, and it is pretty cool, but I don't have enough experience to say how beneficial X amount will be over Y.

It is a huge chunk of change though..
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post #89 of 321 Old 03-16-2016, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Doug's Basement Theater

Doubling up the drywall alone helps a little bit with adding mass, but they even advised it would be a waste of time unless the studs are all 24 inches apart. The wall will still resonate unless properly decoupled. It's surprising how much sound is stopped just by closing the door at the top of the stairs. Much of it comes from underneath the door and through the huge space next to the floor. I have an automatic door seal for that and will seal the edges, use solid core doors for all the new basement doors, do my best to address any rattles before the drywall goes on. I will insulate all the walls and glue and screw all the sheet rock. This helped big-time in my media room with the stuff in the room and the windows being the only things that rattle.

Something else that really helped me make this decision is that I can have somebody else hang the drywall and do the first coat on seams and corners. I wouldn't trust anybody else to do it with clips and channel. Too many ways it could get messed up. I'm speeding up the whole project by three months at least with no decoupling. Putting this whole project off for a year put a lot of things in perspective for me, like, isolating the sound is not important for me since it is in the basement and the bedrooms are in the other end of the house. My wife is ready for it to be done like NOW. Three more weeks and I should be able to get back to construction. Shoulder surgery 2 months ago set me way back, but turns out that it's helped me make this remodel easier. 3 more weeks and I should be able to get my arm above my head, then it's on like Donkey Kong!

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post #90 of 321 Old 03-17-2016, 06:37 AM
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Hey Doug, I faced a similar dilemma with my space also.... toooo many "holes" in the shell to do a full on soundproof effort.
It didn't help that I wanted a drop ceiling..... but such are the sacrifices we make.

I also did the dd gg between the floor joist and ran measurements..... with it just above the theater area I had a 6.7db reduction.... Results HERE

Have not had a chance to do measurements now that the Ruxol is up, but I have a little bit of ceiling to finish first

One day I will start the new theater....... one day..... THAT DAY HAS ARRIVED
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