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Old 12-04-2014, 11:18 PM - Thread Starter
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"Biografen" - A DIY attic home cinema construction


Status picture taken on October 15, 2015


Star ceiling - need to use a better camera :-)

So - it's time to start sharing my construction of HT v2 !! I never got around to sharing V.1 – not least since no construction was done :-) I have been lurking on AVS since 2004, when HT v.1 went live; now its time to share my own project.

It was started in the winter of 2008-2009, but has suffered a 4 year pause due to a PhD project, after step 4 was finished. My oldest son (12 years old) and I picked up the project this fall (2014) :-)

Biografen means "the cinema" or "the movie theater" in Danish, and that's what the room and the project is called in my family.

This thread will serve as place keeper for plans and thoughts and serve as construction log, with pictures. I will share the process of the already completed steps (1-5), as well, including pictures.

The home theater is an attic that after phase 1-3 in the plan below now measures (LxWxH) 6.3 x 3.8 x 2.3 meters (20.7' x 12.5' x 7.5'). I am really missing 2-3 feet in width and 2 feet in length, but the room is as it is. It will be tight when coming and going, as I decided for two rows of four seats (Berkline 090) at the expense of walking area. There will only be two really good seats, but guests will still be impressed, I am sure :-)

The style will be a clean theater look, with an AT screen on a false wall, GOM covered walls and ceiling - black ceiling, burgundy walls - and a black oak hardwood floor. The room has classic attic sloping walls - these will be black as well.

Since the constructions has been underway for some time now, most of the design decisions have already been made, but there will will be plenty of smaller decisions yet to make, where I hope to get comments and tips from the fabulous members of this forum :-)

I have been inspired by many, many threads, but mostly from from Sandman/SmX (star ceiling, AT screen), CJO (Dark Knight Cinema), and Cathan (Flaming Oak Cinema). In addition, Bryan Pape has advised me (6 years ago) on the acoustic treatment plan.

Post 1 will describe the plans as well as show the latest pictures. I will post links from the plan to the respective posts that start a new phase.
Post 2 will briefly describe the background of the project, i.e. HT v.1
POST 3 will be reserved for final pictures
Post 4 and forward will be construction log

Overall Plan:
1) Clear out HT v1. and make an interim setup in game room - under the name "Sal 2" (Cinema 2 in Danish) DONE! (link)
2) Isolate and soundproof "biografen" (Sal 1) DONE! (link)
3) Convert the rear 2 meters to office and sound barrier DONE! (link)
4) Fill ceiling cavities with 4" broad band bass absorption DONE! (link)
5) Make and install star ceiling acoustic panels (1” OC703 on top of the 4” in cavities. Black GOM) DONE! (LINK) Star ceiling design LINK
6) Make and install sloping side wall acoustic panels. Black GOM. Consider pre-planned wiring for four ATMOS / 3D ceiling speakers, to include at rear wall. DONE! (link)
7) Buy, spray paint black, and install four GIK versifusors on rear part of each sloping side wall. DONE! (link)
8) Make window cover boards, right half will be removable for additional fire escape. DONE! (link)
9) Make front wall vertical corner bass traps (Fluffy Knauf) - Will skip due to subwoofer placement!
10) Make front wall, ceiling-sloping side wall, and front wall-floor bass traps (12” x 12” fluffy Knauf) - Will delay until room is calibrated and the acoustics without treatment are well know!
11) Cover rest of front wall with 2" OC703, and cover all fiberglass with cheap black AT fabric. Will delay until room is calibrated and the acoustics without treatment are well know!
12) Make false wall skeleton and test screen position with white sheet (sloping walls determine how high screen can be mounted - the acoustic panels add to this problem) DONE! (link)
13) Finish false wall skeleton with consolidated mounting hole for AT screen DONE! (link)
14) Set up LCR speakers and subwoofer behind screen wall (3 possible positions for sub – which one to start out with? Cannot really test until acoustic treatment and chairs are in place…) DONE! (link)
15) Mount SMX 110" wide Cinema scope AT screen DONE! (link)
16) Make projector shelf and set up projector. DONE! (link)
17) Test riser height and depth with two (of 8) Berkline 090 seats. Likely 35-50 cm high (14-20") and 170 cm deep.
18) Build riser – will serve as broad band bass trap as well and will have two Buttkickers LFE. Include Ethernet switch and 110 V + 220 V wiring, wiring for USB hub, twin mini jack pluck for headset w/mic, and wiring for Buttkickers. Include hidden rope light at riser edge.
19) Floor – All black oak floor or some black carpet in front of screen?
20) Acoustic treatment of rear wall: 5” OC703 up to 140 cm (55”) w/ Burgundy GOM, three black GIK versifusors above. Consider wiring for rear surround speakers (MK-S150T ?)
21) Connect and hang rear surround speakers
22) Rear vertical corner bass traps (SSC with fluffy Knauf). Burgundy GOM
23) Make special panel to cover hot water radiator (heating) to allow heating, yet discrete/hidden.
24) Burgundy GOM treatment on rear half of vertical sidewalls. Empty frames, no OC703. Include pull wires for side surrounds and set up mounting brackets
25) Make black AT panels for screen wall – use black GOM or black velvet from SmX? (have – is not as AT as GOM…)
26) Make 12 mm OSB panel covered in black GOM with LED spotlights for each side wall where sloping wall meets vertical wall.
27) Connect wiring for LED spotlights, including dimmers in 4 zones, two in each side, front and rear half of side wall.
28) connect amplifiers, surround processor, HTPC, blu-ray, etc.
29) Setup sound – test with REW ?
30) Experiment with front half of vertical side walls acoustic treatment. Test with stereo music, Dolby Pro-IIx 7.1 music, as well as 7.1 movies.
31) all the rest :-)

----------------------------------------
Equipment list (2015):
Denon AVC-A1SR (AVR-5803) UPDATE December 2015: replaced by Denon AVR-X5200W for 1160 € w/shipping.
OPPO BDP-83SE
HTPC w/ Mediaportal
Mediaserver (Norco 4224, with 24 HDD, WHS 2011, 3 FireDTV DVB-C tuners, Mediaportal w/argus TV, Plex server)
AVS-1EQ Bass EQ UPDATE December 2015: replaced by Audyssey MULTEQ XT32 in X5200W
Audiovector M3 Signature LCR
MK Sound SS150 L/R side surround speakers
M&K SS150 THX L/R rear surround speakers
MK Sound IW-85 L/R rear heights (UPDATE Dec 2015: just ordered them, for Atmos use with the X5200W)
Rythmik subwoofers: 2 x E15HP and 2 x FM8
Panasonic PT-AE4000U
SmX 279 cm (110") wide cinemascope AT screen
IHC light control
Philips Pronto TSU-9600 Remote
Philips Pronto RFX-9600 Serial Extender

Desired upgrades:
- Lyngdorf TDAi-2170 for LR - Timeframe: 2016
- two front height speakers (Audiovector Mi1 or S1) - Timeframe: early 2016
- Oppo BDP-11x with UHD blu-ray and streaming capability on par with MediaPortal :-) - Timeframe: 2017-2018
- 4K projector (2000 USD) - Timeframe: 2017-2018


----------------------------------------
Basic layout plan - yes, all layouts and construction plans will be in hand :-)



-----------------------------------

Acoustic treatment plan:
Ceiling:
4" of OC703 on rear half (over seating area), 4" standard Rockwool on front half. The 4" fill out the cavities between the joists.
In addition, 1" 703 in a 1" wooden frame wrapped in black GOM all over ceiling, by making six 94x160 cm panels. Although ceiling is 182 cm wide, rather than 160 cm, I left the last 22 cm to be covered by the sloping wall panels. One reason was the width of the roll of black GOM - its only 175 cm.
All 1" ceiling panels will have 3 mm rubber spacers between them and the joists, for a bit of decoupling.
I considered adding pond liner to the 1" panels in all areas except FRZ, to make room more live, but decided on wooden floor instead, for same purpose. The 1" panels will have a fiber optic star ceiling installed.

A 1" ceiling panel:


Sloping side walls:
The front half will have 96 mm deep panels with strips of 6" wide and 3" thick OC703 in a 21x96 mm wooden frame, spaced by 5-20 cm (no repetitive pattern). Design is inspired by Bryan Pape. I will make connected sections 94 cm wide and wrapped in black GOM to match ceiling panels.
The rear half will have 4 GIK versifusors on each side, side by side, and oriented vertically. Above and below the versifusors, I will make GOM wrapped panels to match the front half of the sloping wall.

Construction drawing for sloping sidewall acoustic panel:


Layout and construction drawing for sloping sidewall full treatment, including versifusors:


Since I know it's hard to visualize, here is a completed panel, seen from the back side:


Front wall:
Bryan Pape advised 2" OC703 on whole wall + super chunks corner bass traps from floor to sloping ceiling + 6" x 6" on floor/wall corner. Window to be covered in double ½" OSB w/ green glue. I will make the right half of window cover removable, as an extra emergency exit.
I have decided not to make SCC, but will instead make 30 cm x 80 cm (12x31.5") vertical soffit type corner bass traps using fluffy Knauf + 30 cm x 30 cm (12x12") likewise traps for sloped wall/front wall, front wall/ceiling, and floor/front wall corners. Rest of wall still 2" OC703. All wrapped in black AT fabric (something cheaper than GOM).

This picture shows the difference between a 17x17x24" super chunk triangle corner trap and a 12x12" square one:

UPDATE: reconsidering due to planned test of Lyngdorf TDAi-2170 with two front corner loaded sealed subs. The Room Perfect eq supposingly negates the need for corner bass traps. I can always add them on top of the subs if desired/unhappy. In addition, I will NOT TREAT ENTIRE FRONT WALL initially, but try without treatment, then add for testing purposes.

Rear wall:
5” OC703 up to 140 cm (55”) w/ Burgundy GOM, three black GIK versifusors above. Black GOM wrapped OC703 5" panels for the triangles on the sides of the versifusors, as well as above them (from 200 cm to 230 cm).
I am considering making the OC703 panels with open sides rather than using a 5" wide board, to allow bass to travel horizontally across the panels. Any thoughts on this?
I am also considering using pond liner in the OC703 panels, since their main purpose is bass absorption. The pond liner should per Pape's advice, be mounted floating against the OC703 and will increase bass absorption. Anyone, beside Bryan Pape, that has tried this?
The door will be a challenge - the OC703 panel cannot be too heavy. It will have a versifusor at the top, that will just be mounted with adhesive velcro. Unsure if OC703 panel can be velcro mounted. The door has heavy hinges, but probably not designed for more than the heavy door itself.
UPDATE: reconsidering due to planned test of Lyngdorf TDAi-2170 with two front corner loaded sealed subs. The Room Perfect eq supposingly negates the need for rear wall bass absorption.

Rear vertical corners:
17x17x24" Super chunk corner traps using fluffy Knaub.
The left rear corner trap needs to be removable, since there is an access door to the roof. I am considering hinges that will make it swing 135 deg.
UPDATE: reconsidering due to planned test of Lyngdorf TDAi-2170 with two front corner loaded sealed subs. The Room Perfect eq supposingly negates the need for corner bass traps.

Side walls:
The rear half will probably not have any broadband treatment.
Maybe a few versifusors on the left side between the two rows - the seats will be right up against the left side wall.
The right side will not have room for more than 1" of treatment due to walking passage, but 1" will not be broadband enough, so likely it will just be burgundy GOM on empty 21 mm frames - maybe strips of 21x45 mm wood under GOM for cruder scatter/deflection.
There is a water heated radiator inside the right side wall. I plan on covering it with a panel made of strips of 21x43 and 21x21mm painted black, with burgundy GOM spray-glued on, and cut off between the wooden strips, to allow the hot air to come out.

The front half will be an experiment; I will test different setups when everything else is done:
A) 4’ high 6” OC703 + 1.5’ bare wall, or
B) 4’ 6” OC703 + ½ Versifusor (1’ high), or
C) mix of 4’ high 6” OC703 and 4’ high versifusor (two stacked) (ABABAB), or
D) only versifusors, or
E) bare wall (baseline - not a final option)

I might make the treatment removable with velcro. Then, if something sounds better for music, and something sounds better for movies, I could switch. Possibly, two channel music might be better with diffusion or a mix of diffusion and absorption - we will see (hear :-) )...

Last edited by Jacob B; 12-13-2015 at 10:26 PM. Reason: New ATMOS equipment
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Old 12-05-2014, 01:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Home theater v.1

When my wife and I bought our house in the fall of 2004, a large attic storage room was available for a HT project.

Initially, we just added two Lazy boys, we already had, later a small coach as well. The projector was a Sanyo Z2 and the screen a Da-Lite Highpower pull down screen, 92" wide cinema scope.

Media sources were a Pioneer laser disc and a HTPC with TheaterTek and Ffdshow post processing filters.

The three Audiovector M3 Signature speakers were powered by a Denon AVC A1SR (AVR-5803). Four Dali 102 served as surround in a 7.1 setup, with a poor yamaha subwoofer.








The sound was somewhat boomy due to carpet and tapestry, but no bass absorbers. However, the sound stage was quite good, probably due to the strips of wood on the side walls - it worked as crude diffusion/ reflection in the FRZ I believe. I did not make it, the room was like that when we bought the house.

However, the room was hot in the summer and cold in the winter - too little insulation. Moreover, I had to turn down the volume at night due to too little soundproofing. In addition, it really needed a different color theme :-D

In the winter of 2008, I decided to clear out the room and start the current project. Unfortunately, it stalled completely when I started a PhD project in 2010...

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Old 12-05-2014, 01:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Final pictures

This post is reserved for pictures of the final project :-)

I will show a picture of 1/3 of the star ceiling, as the star ceiling is done. You might be able to make out the north star, little dipper and the dragon :-)



Its ceiling panel 1 and 2, closest to the rear wall.
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Old 12-05-2014, 04:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Step 1: Clear out HT v1. and make an interim setup in game room

This step started in the winter of 2008-2009.
I have no pictures of how the attic room looked when completely empty.

I had tons of sh.. stored in there, it took some time. I had also bought 8 Berkline 090 powered HT recliners, which were stored in there. They had to stay, so they were moved around, as I worked on different parts of the room...

The game room, originally used for Lego, Brio trains, etc., received the two blue Lazy boys, as well as a dark grey couch.

The pictures below are from the fall of 2014, when the Berkline recliners finally left the HT room. My wife generously allowed four of them to be set up in the game room, and the others stored in there. On the pictures, there is one Berkline 090 on top of the couch, as part of testing for riser height and depth :-)



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Old 12-05-2014, 05:31 AM - Thread Starter
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STEP 2: Isolate and soundproof "biografen"

The plan was to add 20 cm (8") of standard rockwool to the vertical side walls on the outside of the room, and 10 cm (4") to the inside of the sloping side walls.

Well, I reconsidered for the right side wall, since the wall height only was about 110 cm here, so the floor space could not really be used for anything. Therefore, I isolated on the inside here, which made the width of the room 5" smaller (4" rockwool and DD with GG).
The decision was also taken due to the fact that working on the outside of the room, in the tiny space between the roof and the side wall, would have been pretty hard. On the left side of the room, there is a much larger space on the outside, as there is an eaves that extends the roof 5' from the outer wall, over the terrace below.

On the left wall, I added two additional layers of drywall, with green glue, for soundproofing. The same for the front wall, around the window., and for the ceiling, between the joists.

All drywall had 5 mm (1/5") fo air around the edges, which had sealant added.
I used SilenSeal from the Green Glue company. It was cheap, but it turned out to adhese pretty poor to the drywall: it cracks when temperature shifts make the walls expand and contract.

The ceiling was hard work, with all the sealing needed to be done.

For the sloping side walls, I had a couple of contractors do it. I needed to make sure it ended up being straight and horizontal - which the wall wasn't really before we started. It only had one layer of drywall, with 4" rockwall behind.

At some point, I decided to build a new rear wall - a double wall on independent studs, and with a 40 Db soundproof door in. I moved the wall 2 meters, which gave me approx 1,8 meters for a small office and equipment room. Contractors build the wall for me and installed the door.
The wall is decoupled on all sides, from floor, ceiling and side walls, and sealed with SilenSeal. It is build with 70 mm metal studs, and 2 x 70 mm fiberglass for sound proofing.
The door opening has a double frame, which allows me to install an extra door later on the office side, if need for further soundproofing.

The wall had conduites installed for each side wall, for electricity and surround speakers, and a large conduite for projector, rear speakers and electricity.

Finally, I had another contractor lay a double 5/8"OSB floor with green glue, on top of a 10 mm rubber matt I bought from an Italian company called Isogomma. Underneath the the rubber matt were the original wooden pine boards.
Underneath the pine boards is a large cavity - 8" high - and then the house's original flat roof made out of roofing felt.
Update December 5, 2014: I just accepted an offer from a contractor to fill out the 8" cavity with paper wool http://www.thermofloc.com/en/builder...-in-insulation

Pictures of the rubbermatt:




Right side wall, sloping side walls and new rear wall done. Still left to be done is ceiling, front wall, and left side wall, as well as the door. You can see the cutout on the right side wall for a new water based heating radiator.




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Old 12-05-2014, 05:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Step 3: Convert the rear 2 meters to office and sound barrier

The office turned out to be the last being done for four years...

I spend a summer on the office, adding xtra drywall with green glue to original rear wall, and doing plaster work and painting.

The I started working on my PhD in political science in the office.
Nothing was done for the next four years, except yearly upgrades on MediaPortal, building a new mediaserver, and a new living room HTPC.

The office space can be seen here. You can see the double frame at the entrance to the HT on the second picture - it still needs to be sealed :-)

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Old 12-05-2014, 06:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Step 4: Fill ceiling cavities with 4" broad band bass absorption

After discussing back and forth with Bryan Pape, I decided on filling the cavities between the ceiling joists with 4" broadband absorbing material.
Overhead the two seating rows, as well as the sections next to the front wall and the rear wall, I used OC703, for greatest effect on low freq.

For the three front sections, I used standard Rockwool; the same between the double joists.

The boxes against the left wall is OC703. You can also see the door installed here.



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Old 12-06-2014, 12:49 AM - Thread Starter
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STEP 5: Make and install star ceiling acoustic panels

Now starts the more fun part - making acoustic panels :-)

Let me repeat the plan for the ceiling:

- 4" of OC703 on rear half (over seating area), 4" standard Rockwool on front half. The 4" fill out the cavities between the joists. (step 4)

- In addition, 1" 703 in a 1" wooden frame wrapped in black GOM all over ceiling, by making six 94x160 cm panels. Although ceiling is 182 cm wide, rather than 160 cm, I left the last 22 cm to be covered by the sloping wall panels. One reason was the width of the roll of black GOM - its only 175 cm.

- All 1" ceiling panels will have 3 mm rubber spacers between them and the joists, for a bit of decoupling.

- I considered adding pond liner to the 1" panels in all areas except FRZ, to make room more live, but decided on wooden floor instead, for same purpose.

- The 1" panels will have a fiber optic star ceiling installed.

The first panel I made was a test. It was the first time I tried to wrap a panel in GOM, so I decided to make the panel for the section behind the AT screen first. This panel would also have to LED downlights, and it would have no fiber optic stars.
Therefore, I decided not to fill the panel with 1" OC703, but simply make an empty frame.
I also decided to use my Burgundy GOM, since I fear I won't have enough black GOM. Hence, I would save a little black, as the panel won't be visible. It should still be wrapped in GOM (or some other AT fabric, to avoid the fiberglass fibers from entering the seating area.

Here is a picture of the panel (sorry for the distance):

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Very nice progress. I too will be monitoring your build as I have slanted ceiling/wall and am very curious how you built it up.

Are you going to be building any diffusers for your room?

I like the thickness of the acoustic treatments you are applying to the room. 4" of anything is better than those hard surfaces you had previously.

Good luck and keep up the good work.

-sirjaymz
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Old 12-07-2014, 04:02 AM - Thread Starter
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First ceiling panel with stars

The first ceiling panel with stars to be made was the one closest to the door - the panel next to the rear wall.
It is not as wide as the other six, only 75 cm as opposed to 93.9 cm. For simplicity, the description in this post will treat it as 93.9 cm wide.
It also has two LED downlights, as the only star ceiling panel.

I was considering to make this panel with pond liner between the black GOM fabric and the 1" OC703, but the pond liner arrived too late for that.
Thus, this panel is without pond liner. I will talk more about pond liner in the post for the next panel.

The frame is made out of 27 x 27 mm (1" = 25.4 mm) as well as 21x45 mm pieces.
It worked out quite well using the 27x27 pieces, as the slightly larger (thicker) dimensions than the 1" OC703 panel made it easy to get a good fix of the OC703, while leaving 1-2 mm on the backside for the fiberoptics.
On this particular panel, I also used two 21x95 mm pieces, for mounting the downlights. The hole for the downlights was 75 mm.

The picture below is not from this particular panel (no 21 x 97 mm pieces), but you can (almost) see how I construct the panel using the 21x45 mm pieces at the ends as cross-pieces with two screws and a 27x27mm right next to it with one screw. The 27x27mm and the 21x97mm pieces are 88.3 cm long and are screwed together before attached to the 160.0 cm long 27x27 mm pieces that make the panel’s long sides. Of course, a 27 x 97 or 27 x 72 mm would have been much easier to use at the short ends of the panel, but such a measure is not available in Denmark.
I align the 27x27 mm and the 21x45 mm on the GOM side (the visible side), and the 27x27 mm inward towards the first OC703 strip.
The OC703 strips on the panels are 12” x 88.4 cm, which gives me two strips per 2’x4’ OC703 panel and a about 1’x2’ of leftover, saved for other use later. They are cut to length of 88.4 cm for a tight fit in the wooden panel's 88.3 mm width.
A 27x27 mm piece with one screw is attached just short of 12” further down the long side of the panel. This makes the space for the OC703 strip about 1.0-1.5 mm shorter on each side than the size of the OC703 strip, for a tight fit.



No picture available of the backside of the finished panel.
The finished panel, mounted in the ceiling, can be seen below.

Originally, I thought I would attach the ceiling panels with strong 3M velcro. However, that turned out not to be possible - it was not strong enough with the four pieces of 4" velcro I added to each long side. Maybe, if I had added velcro along the full length of the panel, but that would simply be way too expensive.
I wanted the panel to be removable for future access to wiring, ceiling speakers, new mounting position for projector, etc.

In the end, I used a compressor nail gun, with small (1 mm) 2" nails.
With theater lighting, they cannot be seen in the GOM fabric.
I added 6 pieces of 3 mm rubber pads on each long side, to decouple the panel a bit from the joists, and to make a little extra room for the fiber optic cables.


Last edited by Jacob B; 12-08-2014 at 12:07 AM. Reason: Added picture
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Old 12-07-2014, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Star ceiling design

Before I go on and show the next ceiling panel, let me describe how I designed the fiber optic star ceiling.
I basically copied Ruben's (SmX) method, except I didn't use a 1/4" MDF for the frontside, since I wanted my whole ceiling to be a broadband absorber. Ruben had a few FRZ panels with thin 1" OC703 and the MDF board on the backside of the OC703, but I did not want such thin acoustic panels - it is an outdated HT acoustic design, I believe.

Consequently, I was curious whether I could make my ceiling panels rigid enough and avoid sagging of the OC703 material without the MDF when the fiber optics were added, and whether the fiberoptics would stay in place with no MDF to hot glue them to, like Ruben did.

As it turned out, I was not a problem :-)

I designed the star ceiling by using a computer program for the star sky (stellarium-0.9.0).
I picked the southern night sky on my birthday, January 22, in the town I live in, Kolding in Denmark.

This is how the whole ceiling will look. Two side-by-side black rectangles represent a ceiling panel, for a total of six panels:



I used a 48 fiber cable, with 4 1.5 mm, 10 1.0 mm, and 34 0.75 mm fibers. I believe Ruben used only 0.75 mm fibers, but I wanted the larger stars to be larger :-)
Below is a picture of ceiling panel one star map. I marked the 4 largest stars with red, the 10 medium with green and the rest with black. Each of the 6 ceiling sections will have their own 48 fiber cable, for a total of 288 stars.
On some star sky sections not all the smallest stars will have a fiber, but it turned out to be pretty close to 48 on all 6 sections.
The large grey circles are the markings for the cutout for the two LED down lights.



Here is panel 2:



And here is the projected picture (the star map is put in a power point and exported as PDF, then projected on the ceiling panel complete with OC703 and wrapped in black GOM. The reflections on this particular panel is larger due to the pond liner used underneath the GOM (see next post). I just a small philips type screwdriver to mark the star. On the backside, the hole is visible in the OC703, and light from the projector can be seen through the hole. I then put a fiber through the hole from the backside. See next post for backside of panel with fibers in place.



And here is a picture of panel 1 and 2, with the stars on. See if you can recognize the star map :-) Top is panel 1, bottom panel 2. The ceiling continues below this picture.


Last edited by Jacob B; 12-29-2014 at 02:11 AM. Reason: Added name for computer program
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Old 12-07-2014, 03:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Construction of star ceiling panel 2

The second panel, which will be right over the seats of the second row, has a pond liner cut to about 88.5 cm x 146 cm , just touching the wooden inner edges of the frame. The pond liner should be mounted floating, i.e. no stables.

The pond liner idea is Bryan Pape's. It serves two purposes: 1) It reflects the highs, making the room more lively. 2) It adds to bass absorption.

Bryan said to minimize the wooden slats across the panel to make the pond liner float as much as possible. Thus, for this panel, I designed it for 24" (2') wide OC703 panels, and 88.3 cm long.
The ceiling panel's total width without GOM, with the 27 mm pieces for the long sides, is then 93.7 cm and about 93.8 - 93.9 cm with GOM.

Since people in the seats will serve as bass absorbers, and possibly as diffusors as well (?), I decided no need for high freq absorption above the seats. I like a lively room, and I will also be playing music.

As it turned out, the pond liner smells a bit, even after a while. In addition, inserting the fiber optics through the pond liner was a b.tch. Last, I thought the 24" wide OC703 panels fit less tight and solid than the 12" strips from the first panel - I was afraid it might sag in the middle over time, rigid or not.
Therefore, this is my one and only ceiling panel with pond liner...

Here is a picture of the backside, finished, with fiber optics. You can see how I had to make a recess on both sides to make room for the fiberoptic cable from this panel, as well as the cable from panel 1. Consequently, I cut the narrow center piece of OC703 in half height, i.e. ½", to make room for the cable run from panel 1.


Another angle:



The width of the panels has been calculated as to make each junction between two panels be right at a joist. It had to be exact, as each joist only is 5 cm (2") wide). 75 cm for the first and 93.9 cm for the rest ended up working quite well. The width without GOM was 93.7 cm and the GOM added about 1-1.5 mm. I allow 0.5-1 mm for mounting flexibility. You can see the six 3 mm rubber pads attached to the joists for decoupling and spacing on the picture of the ceiling before mounting panel 2:



And after mounting:


Last edited by Jacob B; 12-08-2014 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 12-09-2014, 07:41 AM
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I really like what you did with your ceiling! I'm considering something similar for my attic theater project.

What type of down lighting did you use? Did you mount directly to the OC703 or is there some framing?
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Old 12-09-2014, 09:35 AM - Thread Starter
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If you zoom in on this picture, you can see I added downlight casings to the panel. The casings were mounted on a 21 x 97 mm cross board that on all the other panels is replaced by a 27 x 27 mm piece. The cutout hole for the casing was 75 mm.
I cut out a 8 x 8" hole in the OC703 between the joists, per instructions from the casing manufacture ( for heat dissemination). I use 220 V GU10 type LEDs.

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Old 12-11-2014, 01:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Construction of star ceiling panel 3-6

The last 4 panels were constructed identically (except of course the position of the stars).

Here follows pictures of the panel construction. I constructed each wooden frame to hold four 12" wide 1" OC703 strips, plus a smaller ½" strip in the middle to make room for the fiber optic cables from the adjacent panels (the cables all end at the front wall). No pond liner was used.





And the finished ceiling:

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Old 01-12-2015, 04:07 AM - Thread Starter
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STEP 6: Make and install sloping side wall acoustic panels

PLAN:
The front half of the room will have 96 mm deep panels with strips of 6" wide and 2-3" thick OC703 in a 21x96 mm wooden frame, spaced by 5-20 cm (no repetitive pattern). Design is inspired by Bryan Pape. I will make sections 94 cm wide that have 3 frames of 6" OC703 as well as space between them, all in one black GOM-wrapped panel, to match the width of the ceiling panels.

The rear half will have 4 black-painted GIK versifusors on each side wall, side by side, and oriented vertically. Above and below the versifusors, I will make GOM wrapped panels to match the front half of the sloping wall. The ones above will also have 2" OC703, as they are in the side wall/ceiling corner.

Panel 1:
Here is a picture of the first panel, before inserting the OC703 and wrapping in GOM. Also missing are three pieces of wood to seal the sections that will hold OC703, at the angled top. I decided to seal each OC703 section completely on all four sides, while the empty sections will be somewhat open at the top and bottom ends, with only a 94 cm long 21x45 mm piece that holds alle the subpanels together and makes it a single large panel that can have GOM frabric wrapped around it.
The panel is somewhat heavy and I have concerns about attaching it to the single layer drywall on the side wall. I will only be able to have four screws hit the horizontal studs. I will add additional screws that will only attach to the drywall itself... In addition, I will use 1 mm 2" nails at the top, where they attach to the joists.


Here is a picture of the backside of the first finished panel, here you can see how the three sections with OC703 now are sealed on all four sides:


Here is a picture of the mounted panel, seen from below. You can see two angled screws in the OC703 section that attach it to the drywall, here with no stud behind it. You can also see the pink cord used to align all the panels horizonally.


Here is a picture of the mounted panel from the side. Here you can see three angled screws into the drywall, one of them hits a stud, another one further up does as wall. You can see it is not completely flat against the wall, due to alignment with the ceiling panel (see next picture for this). Twist you head 40 degrees to the left to align with reality :-)


The mounted panel seen from the future position of second row of seats. The cardboard box behind it is a model for an ATMOS speaker:


The last picture shows the mounting and alignment at the top, where it meets the ceiling panel. As can be seen, I have also prepared for wirering for ceiling speakers. More on this in the next post. Of course, despite planning for this, I forget it during construction and had to remove the three top pieces of wood on the OC703 sections and make room for the tube :-)

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Old 01-12-2015, 04:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Sloped wall panel 2:

Here is a picture of the second panel before GOM. I started to use leftover strips of OC703, to minimize the waste. I also used a 2" and a 1" strip, for a total of 3".


Here is a picture of the backside of the second panel, which I decided to put GOM on the backside of the OC703 sections as well, to incapsulate the OC703 completely. As it turns out, this became the only section to have this, as I reckoned I wouldn't have enough GOM if I did this on all the panels. I should probably have gone out and bought some cheap muslin fabric for the backsides, but never got around to it. I might still do so for the last two panels.

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Old 02-17-2015, 01:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Sloped Wall Panel 3 and 4

These panels have been prepared for ATMOS/DTS X speakers here. Therefore, I divided the panels into two parts, with the top part mounted with velcro and sized to hold a MK IW-85 or 95. An IW-150 will require a redesign. Alternatively, a MK S150T/SS150Thx can be mounted on top of the removable top panel. Wiring is prepared.

Here is the lower panel seen from the backside:


And the front side, GOM covered:


Here is the top panel:


And here is a lower and top panel mounted in the right side of the room, and a lower panel in the left side:

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Old 05-06-2015, 06:02 AM - Thread Starter
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STEP 7: Buy, paint black, and install four GIK versifusors on rear part of each sloping side wall.

I have bought 16 GIK Versifusors, which are a 13-root QRD diffuser made out of polystyrene. They are sold in packs of four 2'x2' (60 x 60 cm) panels, and are untreated.
They are very cheap compared to other QRD diffusors, but do not look very attractive.
However, painted black and added next to my black GOM panels, in a darkened HT room, you cannot see they are made out of polystyrene.
I am not aware whether they sound differently than one's made out of wood, but they likely sound better than bare drywall.

I have added them in the rear half of the room, as seen below. They are mounted with 3M adhesive velcro.
I have 5 panels left, which will likely be used somewhere on side walls in the front half of the room.





I will add black GOM covered panels below and above for finish. The panels above will also serve as potential positions of ATMOS/DTS:X ceiling speakers. I have pre-wired.

Last edited by Jacob B; 05-06-2015 at 06:32 AM.
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Old 05-06-2015, 06:30 AM - Thread Starter
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STEP 16: Make projector shelf and set up projector &
part of STEP 20: Acoustic treatment of rear wall: three black GIK versifusors from 150 cm and up


Sorry - breaking the order of the plan :-D
It made sense to me to add the rear wall versifusors together with the sloped sidewall ones. I then realized I had to make the projector shelf first.

I have tried to decouple the shelf a bit by adding 3 mm rubber pads between the shelf and the shelf brackets, and between the shelf brackets and the wall.




The shelf itself is a 16 mm solid oak shelf painted black.
I am considering adding a 10 mm rubber decoupling matt and a 10 mm MDF board on top of that, to avoid low frequency vibrations. I will probably wait and see if there is a problem.

I then cut out slots on the back of the versifusor panel that will go in front of the brackets. In addition, the panel was shortened 10 cm in length. I made sure there was a small air gap between the brackets and the backside of the panel, to minimize vibrations.

These pictures show the versifusors mounted on the rear wall. They are mounted with 3M adhesive velcro.


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Old 05-06-2015, 07:04 AM - Thread Starter
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STEP 8: Make window cover boards, right half will be removable for additional fire escape.

Okay - this proved more work than anticipated :-(

The plan was to still be able to open the window, as fire escape as well as fresh air.

I initially added black tar paper on the window itself, to make the window appear black from the outside.


I then added a sandwich of 12 mm OSB board, GG, and 12.5 mm drywall wall on the window frame (not the opening part of the window). On the left side, behind the OSB board, I added 50 mm Knauf RS60 mineralwool and a 25 mm polystyrene board glued to the window frame, to sealed the mineral wool.

On the right half, I make a removable cloth-covered 95 mm Knauf Ecobatt, also with a 25 mm polystyrene board outward. This mineralwool batt opens and closes together with the window - it is attached to the moveable part of the window with velcro.




Alas, the sun is quite a powerful energy source ;-)
The black tarred paper added to the inside of the window sucked so much energy out of the sun - in March - that the two 25 mm polystyrene boards next to it MELTED!! In addition, the window glass CRACKED!




So I had to replace the two polystyrene boards, as well as the window glass. I replaced the window glass with a 10 mm MDF board painted light gray with a piece of hardened glass in front of it (the glass can withstand up to 400 degrees celcius). I also added 10 mm polystyrene to the inside of the MDF board for insulation purposes.

Here is a picture of the final construction. Notice the removable board (OSB + drywall) standing on the floor.


Here you can see the locking mechanisms I made to keep the cover board in place. They are rotated 90 degrees to lock the cover board in place. There is one on each side.



And here you see the final result. The removable panel (to allow for fire escape) is a two layer panel, with OSB on the back and on the edges and a drywall panel covering most of the front. The panel covers approximately 1/4 of the original window; the rest is permanently covered.

Last edited by Jacob B; 06-23-2015 at 11:15 AM. Reason: added finished picture
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Old 06-23-2015, 05:08 AM
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Any updates?
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Old 06-23-2015, 06:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Only a few. Work has demanded a construction pause...

I have had the electrical wiring done, for the downlights that will be on each side where the sloped wall meets the vertical wall, and for the subwoofers, which will have their own circuit.

Moreover, I finished covering the window, see previous post.

I have also installed the star light ceiling illuminator.


In addition, I built two small GOM-wrapped panels for above the diffusors. I need to built four more. They are placed on the right side, see left side for comparison with no panels.


I made the first small panel with OC703, but decided to make the next one as crude diffusion/deflection:


Last, but not least, I ordered four Rythmik subwoofers :-D
- Two E15HP
- Two FM-8
Each front corner will hold one of each, in a stack.
They will cross at 50 hz between the E15HP and the FM-8. The AV receiver will cross the LCR at 180-200 Hz, while the surrounds will be crossed at 80-100 hz. I might test crossing the center at 80 hz, to avoid having male dialogue come partly from the front corners (only a problem if not seated in the center).

I will either sell my SVS PB-12/plus2 or try to "sneak" it into the living room as a coffee table :-D

Next step will be assembling the AT screen frame (SmX 110" Cinemascope) and hang it on the false wall I built.
That will probabaly happen in July, when I have vacation.
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:21 PM - Thread Starter
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STEP 12-14: False wall + LCR & sub speaker placement

I have had a construction pause for a few months - a new family puppy stole the time, as a dog house and a fence around the garden took way too much time :-)

I finished building the false wall. I ended up using 38 x 57 mm wood rather than 2' x 4'. I hope it will be solid enough. I used glue as well as angle brackets for the connections.
I finished with a black paint job

As written in the post above, I ended up buying four Rythmik subs, for front corner placement. Can't wait to power them up :-)

Here is the result:
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Old 11-15-2015, 10:36 PM - Thread Starter
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STEP 15: Mounting the AT Screen

A ghost from the past :-D
My SMX AT cinemascope screen measuring 279 cm x 116 cm (110" x 45.5") was bought in 2009 and as been in storage, unpacked since then. I bought 1.85:1 side-masking panels as well from SmX - they are manually inserted. Quite easy, but I will probably be the only one using them :-)

It was with great expectations and some anxiety I unpacked it and assembled it :-) As SmX has gone bankrupt since I bought it, I had not room for mistakes...
It all went well!

Here is a couple of shots of the result. Bad idea taking pictures of a soccer match, as the movement in the picture makes it blurry. The masking panels are not in place. I will take a couple of shots later with them in place.


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Old 11-29-2015, 10:58 PM - Thread Starter
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STEP 18: Build riser

STEP 18: Build riser – will serve as broad band bass trap as well and will have two Buttkickers LFE

I ended up making the riser in two parts: A lower part measuring 32 x 326 x 180 cm (H X W X D) and an upper part measuring 22 x 330 x 110 cm.

The lower part is constructed to serve as a broad band bass absorber in the room length and width dimension. It has large openings on all four sides, allthough the left side is placed only 1" from the left wall.

The upper part is decoupled from the lower with 4 rubber feet on each short side, and has two Buttkicker LFE installed. It has no openings on the sides, for construction stability reasons.

Construction pictures follow now.

"no noise" 2 mm rubber-based matt; will also be used under the black oak floor laid in step 19:


The 4x2" plus 8x2" construction seen below is used to get air flow in both the length and width dimension of the room. 0.5 mm pond liner is attached to the openings to limit absorption to bass region. The pond liner is stapled at the top only.


The right side of the lower part:


The rear side of the lower part:


A technical cabinet is made in the front, with ethernet, 220v, 110v for recliners, and wire for the buttkickers. I have a conduit to the equipment room ending here. The conduites coming up through the fiberglass is 110v for the recliners and wire for the buttkickers. I used Knauf eco-batts - similar to fluffy pink, but with no formaldehyde.


Green glue is used between the two OSB layers on the lower riser (15 mm (5/8") and 12 mm (½") OSB):


The upper part is constructed using 8x2" on the rim and two 4x2" for the middle beams mounted in the long dimension (330 cm), for a less rigid construction to help the buttkickers vibrate the riser. Buttkickers were mounted on a piece of 6x2" connected to both 4x2" beams.



The bottom of the upper riser has a semi open construction, with plastic to keep the fiberglass inside the riser and with 4x1" boards to keep the plastic in place:


You can see the buttkickers through the plastic. I carved 2-4" of space around the buttkickers in the fiberglass, and drilled six 1" holes in the 22 mm gulvspaanplade (1" OSB board) used for the top of the riser. This should allow the buttkickers to get rid of the heat - I hope :-)


Pictures of finished riser to follow. I forgot to take pictures before I painted the upper riser black and installed the recliners :-)
Pictures of riser with recliners in place. The 8th recliner (left seat second row) will be installed when the left sidewall is finished:

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Old 12-02-2015, 02:51 AM - Thread Starter
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ATMOS plan: new speakers and AVR

I decided to buy a Denon AVR-X5200W and a pair of rear height speakers (and looking for a pair of Audiovector Mi1 as front heights), instead of buying the Lyngdorff TDAi 2170 amp now.

The Denon was only 1160 €, which is half price of the new X6200 that has replaced it. It does not have DTS:X, but that format has yet to prove its worth, and the X5200 was so "cheap" that I can defend replacing it in a couple of years (retire it to the gaming room).

After I moved the Berkline recliners into the theater, it became obvious that the planned location of the rear surround speakers did not work (150 cm (5') above the floor)- the 2nd row recliners blocked line-of-sight when 1st row is reclined. Moreover, a mounting height of 150 cm is not ideal for future ATMOS/DTS:X use. Ear-height is preferred, with the addition of a top or height speaker.

Therefor, I decided to move them down to 50 cm (20") above the floor. 50 cm is the height of my riser. This allows the rear surrounds to radiate through the 2nd row recliners, if I replace the vinyl flap on the back with a black GOM flap (picture will follow) and the seats are reclined (foot-rest up). The MK Sound SS150 is a tripole, so it has a 1" and a 5½" direct radiating driver. The SS150 side drivers will bounce back and forth behind the 2nd row and create a lot of ambience.

Here is a picture of the back side of the 2nd row. You can see the vinyl flaps temporary raised with books :-) This allows the passage of sound from the rear surrounds.


Here is a close-up:


This picture is taken at ear-height from the 1st row (reclined). You can see the MK SS150 through the second row seats (reclined):


This picture illustrates how the reclined second row has room underneath for rear surround passage:


I will then add rear height speakers at the tricorners of the sloping wall, rear wall, and ceiling. Due to the door, I only have 8" of height. I therefor bought a pair of MK Sound IW-85 (inwalls), which I will mount on the side, slightly tilted downward towards the MLP, and with the tweeters placed towards the tricorners.
Mounting height will be 210 cm (bottom) to 230 cm (top). This should give me a good height separation between the rear heights and the side and rear surrounds.
Picture of (upright) IW-85:

Planned location:


I will then add front heights at the same location in the front, just behind the false wall.
Top front or Top Middle speakers would be difficult to mount aesthetically unless I used IW-85 or IW-95 inwalls. I decided I do not want speakers mounted on top of the sloped wall acoustical panels.
Since the first row is only 10 feet (when reclined) from the false wall and the screen, I will get a good angle between the MLP and the front height speakers. I will attempt to buy a pair of used Mi1 Signature or similar, to match the timbre of my M3 Signature LCR speakers. They can normally be had for around 500-600 USD for a pair (25 % of new price). At some point I might switch all the front speakers to MK Sound speakers (S150Mkii or S300), but I can always find use for the Mi1 other places in the house.
Picture of Audiovector Mi1:

Last edited by Jacob B; 12-13-2015 at 10:08 PM.
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Old 12-13-2015, 10:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Side surrounds

LOCATION OF SIDE SURROUNDS

I am testing the location of the side surrounds. ATMOS guidelines are 90-100 degrees from MLP, at ear height. However, if the tweeters are to be at ear height, the person in the chair next to you will block line of sight if the speaker is at 90 degrees... 90 degrees only works if the speaker is located somewhat above ear height, as far as I can see.
Therefore, I am experimenting with approx. 110 degrees, as pr. these pictures. They are taken at ear height from the MLP:

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Old 12-14-2015, 12:35 AM
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cool build!
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Old 02-01-2016, 06:04 AM - Thread Starter
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LOCATION of REAR surrounds

Ideally, rear surrounds should be at the same level as the side surrounds, and in an ATMOS system, at ear height.
However, at ear height, my M&K SS150 tripole rear surrounds will play with the front drivers into the backs of second row, with no line of sight to the ears of neither 1st nor 2nd row ears.

I am therefore testing the rear surrounds place somewhat lower - 20" to the bottom of the speaker - in an effort to create line of sight to the MLP, ie. center seats front row.
If the "bottom-flap" on the backrest of recliners is cut off and replaced by a piece of acoustic transparant black fabric, I have line of sight to the front drivers of the M&K SS150 when 2nd row is reclined, as seen below. There is not line of sight to both rear surrounds from every seat in front row, but there is "general line of sight"


Here is a picture with the 4th chair in 2nd row removed - you can see the position of the left rear surround speaker.


Here is a close up picture:

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