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post #1 of 23 Old 04-11-2015, 08:44 PM - Thread Starter
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new member new theater

Ok so I have lurked and searched long enough. I think there is a minimum post number before pics can be uploaded if not great. I have no pics to show right now but I have 3 possible areas to build my theater. My basement is 1/2 finished but a back storage area is not and would be a clean slate rectangle. The finished area would just need the ceiling de coupled and 3 walls built to accomadate a double stud wall. My issue is a 7' +2-3" ceiling. I dont want to loose headroom down there. Another place is my loft. I have an A-frame type of house. Thr loft would need all walls/ceiling/floor decoupled to use it. I currently have a deneon xxxx cant remember model but it has audessey calibration. A polk cs1 center m60s for fronts and polk monitor bookshelves for surrounds as well as a polk 12" sub which I plan to upgrade eventually. My screen choice is between a 75" 4k hdtv or a projector depending on my location. I will try and get measurements tomm and hopefully enough posts to get some pics up. My wife is against the loft because she wants our bedroom up there becsuse it is huge. The basement will have a pool table and other entertainment as well as a bathroom once completed. I know im rambling but I have also convinced her to build a house in about 5-6 years. If thats the case I would build 10-12ft ceilings in the basement and start from scratch. Phewww..... go
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post #2 of 23 Old 04-12-2015, 01:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Question before pics and measurements. If I dd and gg directly to floor joists. Does the 2nd layer of drywall get screwed through both layer and into joists as well? Thanks
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post #3 of 23 Old 04-12-2015, 02:51 AM
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post #4 of 23 Old 04-12-2015, 04:48 AM - Thread Starter
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First image would be 14ft deep and 13.5ft wide. It would require de coupleing all walls and ceiling . Previous owners work here.
Storage looking room would be 16ft deep and 11.5 ft wide. The storage area is being re done as its thr original 70s-80s paneling and I have a clean slate basically. It would also have 2 foundation walls which are already framed under the paneling. I would think de coupling 2 walls would be easier on the clean slate build. Both rooms are 7 ft from slab to bottom of joist
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post #5 of 23 Old 04-12-2015, 04:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Forgot I can actually make this room wider by gettinf rid of the 2 closets. Both contain the main hvac and I beam above them. I would probably build a box within the far closet and use it as a equipment housing
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post #6 of 23 Old 04-12-2015, 05:27 AM
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Just a cautionary note, sometimes a wall of closets is there because it is hiding something, like a support pole.
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post #7 of 23 Old 04-12-2015, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjc50 View Post
Question before pics and measurements. If I dd and gg directly to floor joists. Does the 2nd layer of drywall get screwed through both layer and into joists as well? Thanks
Just so you know soundproofingcompany.com often will tell customers to save their money on green glue if you attach the drywall directly to the studs and you have high expectations for a complete reduction in sound leakage. If your expectaions are less proceed. Also FYI there is a method of using clips and channel and only giving up 1/2 inch of headroom. You run the channels parallel to joists mounted to recessed blocking.
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post #8 of 23 Old 04-12-2015, 03:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Not real high expectations as this may not be my permanent home. But r19 in floor joist and dd on ceiling and walls should atleast dampen enough to listen at my preferred volume without pissinf the wife off. I figure as long as I can make the sub sound like a very distant thunder upstairs I would be happy. The storage area is below the kitchen and dining room. Anywhere else and its bedrooms above it. So I think I will be happy with dd. Any other advice? Ideas?
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post #9 of 23 Old 04-12-2015, 04:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Any chance there a reference guide to the ceiling height/distance/size for a projector? Just ripped down all the old paneling and storage shelves. I plan to build a studwall up against it and insulate. The closets will stay in place but I will build an equipment storage within. Kind of a box within a closet.
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post #10 of 23 Old 04-13-2015, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjc50 View Post
Not real high expectations as this may not be my permanent home. But r19 in floor joist and dd on ceiling and walls should atleast dampen enough to listen at my preferred volume without pissinf the wife off. I figure as long as I can make the sub sound like a very distant thunder upstairs I would be happy.
You need to do more than R19 & DD if you want to have any impact on LFE transfer to upstairs. The only way your sub will sound like distant thunder with that solution is to turn the volume down.

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post #11 of 23 Old 04-13-2015, 07:43 PM - Thread Starter
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With only 7ft ceiling if I decide to de couple or do the supports imbeteeen joists to de couple would you bother eith a subfloor? Would there be a performance hit without a subfloor? The closets in the storage rooms hide 2 supports which I will build around. One will be the equipment rack and closest to the rear door will be the movie rack. As far as seating goes we did some measurements and found an 8ft couch seems a bit close clearance to the door. Was thinking a sectional but that would kill the side speaker placement. We are also debating on ripping all the dry wall down and starting from scratch if we decide to stay in this house. Starting from scratch would give me an awesome opportunity to make a room as large as I wish basically
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post #12 of 23 Old 04-13-2015, 10:01 PM - Thread Starter
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And does a 7ft ceiling limit my screen size options?
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post #13 of 23 Old 04-13-2015, 11:14 PM - Thread Starter
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If I installed stringers between the floor joists and decouple the ceiling with clips. Would one layer of 5/8" drywall with insulation between the joists be enough? To save on height or is de coupling and 2 layers a must? How would 2 layers of drywall directly to joists compare to de coupled one layer of drywall?
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post #14 of 23 Old 04-14-2015, 05:59 AM
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And does a 7ft ceiling limit my screen size options?
Yes, it can't be more than about 76 inches tall for a single row theater. Assumes 7 inches for frame at the top and bottom. Much less if you want unobstructed views from a second row.

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post #15 of 23 Old 04-14-2015, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjc50 View Post
If I installed stringers between the floor joists and decouple the ceiling with clips. Would one layer of 5/8" drywall with insulation between the joists be enough? To save on height or is de coupling and 2 layers a must? How would 2 layers of drywall directly to joists compare to de coupled one layer of drywall?
.
If you can only do a single layer skip the clips and channel. The system is an isolated damped mass three part system. You leave out any one and it won't perform as you might hope.
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post #16 of 23 Old 04-15-2015, 12:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Guess I will go with dd all around and hope for the best. Maybe it will be plenty with it not being near bedrooms. With the smaller room I would imagine my denon 16xx cs1 center m60 front lr and monitor 30s should be plenty so cost will be down. Im also thinking about a 75-85" tv as opposed to a projector with the smaller space. Any thoughts and I appreciate the help
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post #17 of 23 Old 04-15-2015, 05:43 AM
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to get the same field of vision and feeling of immersion of a projection setup you would need to sit about 7 ft from a 75-85 inch TV.
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post #18 of 23 Old 04-20-2015, 06:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Alot of remodeling will be done in this home. I have been thinking and I do have a large bonus area . This area is huge and would need the floor to be de coupled but how does the loft look. All paneling will be brought down this area will be stripped to studs eventually.
From the stairs to the back closet wall is 18ft wall to wall is 21 ft. Failing to back 2 window wall is 15.5 ft. The wife wanted the bedroom up here after it is walled off and framed. But I showed her pics of loft/attic theaters and she is warming up
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post #19 of 23 Old 04-20-2015, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Forgot the only issue I can see is that the beams in the loft are structural and I cannot nor would not pay to get around those. If everytning was sound proofed as much as possible how bad would those beams transmit lfe to the rest of the structure?
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post #20 of 23 Old 04-21-2015, 04:19 AM
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You should start by determining a realistic number of seats you actually need.

Ceiling height won't limit your screen size in those basement rooms, with
a single row of seating. Seating distance to the screen will be the limiting factor.

You also can do soffting in the storage area, assuming there isn't a post buried
between those two closets.
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post #21 of 23 Old 04-21-2015, 04:20 AM
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How about a basement floor plan, for us to work with?
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post #22 of 23 Old 04-21-2015, 08:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Any free programs to use or just pics and measurements? All I have is my phone for now. We have no use for a pc with crap internet out in the boonies
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post #23 of 23 Old 04-21-2015, 08:36 PM - Thread Starter
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I would like to sit 6 at least 8 woild be a great potential but I dont see it happening
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