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I almost started a build thread today...

29K views 800 replies 66 participants last post by  daniberry143 
#1 ·
#99 ·
Great thread so far and I can't wait until the actual build thread. I totally agree with you as far as your plan to remodel from the outside in if you can get away with it. Here I have worked on many remodels that took place as the owners continues to live there for the same reasons you specify. Good Luck!
 
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#100 ·
I like your plan. In ten years it'll be done, paid for, built to your specs and not half a$$ed by a promise the sky low bidder contractor. Even if you overbuild the house for your neighborhood the utility you'll get out of it during the next 30 years will more than make up for it.

Alright, I'm going to add my two cents about the front door and only because you're still in the planning stages. I agree with @doublewing11. Architecturally you want to emphasize one door as the main entrance. Due to the location and symmetry of your original door it looks like the main entrance but the porch door screams for attention because it's recessed and has a nice stone facade surrounding it. Confusing. Either eliminate the original door (easy if you're siding anyway) or deemphasize the breezeway door. Maybe get rid of the stone and/or use paint colors to put the focus on the original door. I personally would get rid of the original door and just have a walk way from driveway to the new porch door.

Otherwise it's looking good and time to get on with the rest of this BUILD thread. :D
 
#110 ·
Made a little more progress on the plans:



















I think the only real question now we are fighting through is the layout of the second floor master bath / closet / master bed areas.
 

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#111 ·
More on the Joist thing:


RFPI-90 11-7/8” I-Joists $4.13/lf
37 pcs 26’L $3973.06 plus tax 12” oc option(26’6” span ability)

RFPI-90 14” I-Joists $4.30lf
37 pcs 26’L $4136.60 plus tax 12” oc option(30’1” span ability)
28 pcs 26’L $3130.40 plus tax 16” oc option(27’5” span ability)

RFPI-90 16” I-Joists $4.41/lf
37 pcs 26’L $4242.42 plus tax 12” oc option(33’4” span ability)
28 pcs 26’L $3210.48 plus tax 16” oc option(30’4” span ablilty)

 

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#114 ·
I'm way behind here and still trying to catch up, but if I had it to do over again, I would have put a steel beam in my the ceiling of my theater. Currently I have several paralams and LVLs up there that made wiring and plumbing a nightmare. I think it would have been marginally more trouble at the outset for much less trouble later.
 
#116 ·
Explain this more. You mean for running electrical and stuff ? I'm not in the basement and the panel is in the room so I might get luckier than you in that regard. I don't anticipate needing to run the wire the directions against the joists, I'd just run it in the walls.
 
#117 ·
My original quote from the first place was:

ROSEBURG RFPI-60S 16" I-JOIST have a 2” x 3” solid wood flange and a max span of 26’ 0” @ 16” O.C. cost $3.09/ LF total price for 28/26’ = $2249.52

ROSEBURG RFPI-80S 16" I-JOIST have a 2” x 4” solid wood flange and a max span of 28’ 6” @ 16” O.C. cost $4.04/ LF total price for 28/26’ = $2941.12

ROSEBURG RFPI-90 16" I-JOIST have a 2” x 4” LVL flange and a max span of 30’ 4” @ 16” O.C. cost $4.71/ LF total price for 28/26’ = $3428.88
 
#119 ·
I don't think a steel beam makes sense for me. My joists run the 26 foot distance, and the other direction is 36 feet. I'd need a lot of them, or I would need a center beam and possibly supports. The entire process was to avoid having lolly columns in the garage, and get as much ceiling height as possible. Unless I am missing something.... it does not seem like it would work. The theater is the second floor and the beams are the floor- not the ceiling.
 
#120 · (Edited)
Yeah, sounds like you are dealing with a different set of problems. I guess the only way this would work would be to to use a good size 26' steel beam, and then hang 16' I-joists off it. I don't even know if that is a viable option.

The way our house worked, we designed the layout of the house, then the flooring package was bought (the engineered joists). This included having a flooring "engineer" design all the I-joist spans, weight-bearing walls (including specifying deeper footings in areas), and engineered beams (LVLs, parallams, double/trippled I-joists) to meet deflection limits. Is it not the same with your builder?

Edited above to be a little clearer. Also of note, we have places in my theater ceiling where regular I-joists were doubled or even tripled (side-by-side) to meet deflection limits. This is another option, but I would still think it would be good idea to have the flooring package designed by someone that does it for a living. It was nice to be able to contact them and and verify that I could use DD on the ceiling with no issue.
 
#121 ·
All of the joist I am looking at can span 26' safely and yes it was spec by an engineer. The question I have specifically is if I could go with the minimum level of performance ($2100) and be ok, or if I should step up to a higher level performance product ($3000+).

Safety isn't an issue.

The basic joist would have a little more flex or floor bounce. But I'm wondering if that's a problem? It might be cool in a theater. idk ...
 
#126 ·
All of the joist I am looking at can span 26' safely and yes it was spec by an engineer. The question I have specifically is if I could go with the minimum level of performance ($2100) and be ok, or if I should step up to a higher level performance product ($3000+).
This from the guy who recommended buying tools that were better and more expensive than the Harbor Freight ones... Is this really a serious question? The answer is obvious. Pay more and don't scrape the bottom of the barrel when it comes to a bouncy floor.
 
#122 ·
I don't like floor bounce. It's almost a pet peeve. You didn't ask my opinion, but I would rather add transducers if I was looking for a more seat of the pants experience in my theater. The other issue is if you don't like the extra give, it's a lot of trouble to fix later!
 
#125 · (Edited)
Post for splitting span or not........doesn't matter, you'll have some level of deflection. IMHO, limit deflection as much as you can should be first consideration. I'd spend the extra cash on the bones of building as those components will be MOST expensive to fix/change.

An extra 1k is nothing in grand scheme of project..........moving floors IMHO is first sign of shoddy construction. Adding 1-1/8" ply to subfloor would help stiffen floor especially if using Serenity Mat and another two layers of 3/4" ply using GG.

Saving money on structure is calling for trouble later.......save money on finishing materials!

People using OSB for subsiding, roof sheathing, sub flooring, and using minimum code flooring/ joist materials are crying ten years later! ;)

Edit:

Sorry for my "Fly by night" post ^^^...........................I'd like to add, Mikey is going to have enough subs in his room, there's no way he can eliminate bouncing floors. Paying the extra moola by raising engineering spec by 50% will ensure stable floor for large gatherings in room before sub usage. Personally, I'd try to come close to doubling minimum spec................tough, and can be expensive, but well worth it. BTW, OSB products are fine.............as long as elements will NEVER get to material................therefore, would never use for sheathing exterior. For inside wall shear, OSB is great and much cheaper than ply.....................but for any exterior materials such as roof sheathing, subsiding, flooring.............plywood is ALWAYS the safest, best bet. Sorry.........off by "Speaker Box of One"

 
#129 ·
Why can't you go with the cheaper joists and if the bounce is significant add a lalley column and beam in the garage later? Save some money right now and don't sheet rock (if you're going to do that anyway) the garage until later. Halving the span for the cheaper joists should eliminate any bounce don't you think? How much would it cost to use the cheaper joists and add a beam without a column?
 
#132 ·
Will help with deflection....................but won't necessarily help with floor movement! I'll have to dig into my invoices for what I spec-ed for joist in my theater room, but I have pony/stem walls 8 ft OC on 26 ft span to help with deflection.........................and still with four UXL's working at 50% my floors move like an earthquake! The 3000 lbs of sand in front stage and 14" rear riser do help calm movement down.........but still! :eek:

BTW, my room on first floor with crawl space.....................with what Mike is planning..........................OMG!!! :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

 
#134 ·
I don't know if my experience will help, but your garage / theatre arrangement is quite similar to mine - just a little larger.

My builder and I concluded that the most economical solution was to run a steel beam across the garage and have the joists run front to back.

We also spec'd the joists at double normal residential floor loading due to the weight of the theatre floor build up / riser / baffle wall / columns etc etc.

You need to be careful when pushing joists near their limit with significant permanent loads, as it's the long term creep deflection that could be a problem.

Cheers,
 
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