AVS Forum banner

Color Changing Coffered Ceiling Room

7K views 55 replies 9 participants last post by  bpassman 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone, I've moved to a new house and started a new room. After adding 3 more soffits to balance out the room, I couldn't decide on a way to finish the ceiling that would still allow me to access stuff later. Who knows what the surround format wars will bring! :) So I decided on a drop ceiling using a standard 2x2 grid and tiles from www.ceilume.com. (btw, those guys are great!)

Anyway, the entire room is 16'x24' with the drop ceiling area 12'x18'. The ceiling grid is standard Armstrong from Lowes and ceiling tiles are Ceilume 2x2 translucent Westminster tiles. Lighting is from 6" cans that were there from the builder with Philips HUE bulbs. I've added some pics to get feedback and show my progress...

More to come soon/On the drawing board...
- New PJ and Screen (replacing Epson 8350 and Carada 110" - thinking JVC X500R and ST158")
- Screen wall with hacked Ikea Besta storage units with fabric wrapped doors.
- Chair rail with some type of wall covering. (Taking votes on panels or curtains.)
- Seating (replacing 4 Berline 090's w/ Dark Blue bonded - had too many kids!)

Current Gear
- Power = Belkin PureAV Theater surge protector
- AVR = Pioneer SC-85
- Sources = FiOS and Oppo BD-103D (Thinking about Plex?)
- Speakers = Polk RTi70 Towers, CSi40 Center, FXi30 Surrounds, playing with Atrium 4s for Atmos/Backs, Velodyne 12" (Looking for replacements) :)
- Control = Logitech Ultimate Home w iPad Mini


Anyway, here's to getting your feedback and input.
 

Attachments

See less See more
4
#2 ·
Finished installing the ceiling grid, leveling and popped in all the tiles. Btw, it took much longer than I thought to level out the grid. Add some shots with lights off, on, and some odd Hue multi-color setting.

Room layout is still up in the air, I like it 24x16 (short) to maximize the width and options for max people without needing a riser; but know that 16x24 (long) will provide better surround placement and will need a riser. Thoughts? Ideally need to seats 8.

Also taped off 158" diag 2.35:1, part of me thinks it's a little big (wait, did I really say that?).

And temporarily put my old Berkline 090s and old Polks and Ikea storage in place.

Oh, and ignore the hanging sheets (thanks for the idea Steve); they're my temp wall and imaginary barn doors.
 

Attachments

#5 ·
Ok, I'm back from Orlando and going to Infocom 2015! Cool event and lots of interesting AV and IT gear. Not much more progress, but I did manage to tape out 2 walls and cutout some foam to represent some potential inwall speakers.

3rd pic still has sheets instead of wall and barn doors. And if you look close enough, you'll see part of a foam bar I built to visualize the future.


Any thoughts or opinions?
 

Attachments

#4 ·
The can lights are standard 6in cans that were pre-existing. The bulbs are the original HUE lamps (UPC or EAN No.: 046677426361) and there's about 7 inches between the ceiling and the tiles. With the brightness all the way up, they are very hot and don't diffuse much. I've thought LED strips might be a better choice around the perimeter and will try it with the 1 strip I have this week. Honestly, part of me likes it even though its novel and I turn them all out when watching anything.

My real concern with the translucent tiles are what they look like with the PJ on; that testing will be about a week from now.
 
#9 ·
Personally I prefer a chair to a couch but like @Stereodude said it's a personal preference.
The long layout looks better and gives you more separation from your rear surrounds
Tough to tell but what are your seating distances in the long layout?
 
#10 ·
Yeah, I'm having a hard time deciding. The room is currently setup in the long layout (screen on right side wall). The room is 16x22, and the first row is about 9ft from the 140" 16:9 screen. Dolby Atmos 5.1.4 sounds great in this layout due to the separation of channels.
 
#11 ·
Curious about this topic, too. Have a Grafik Eye (3106)

I have an outlet that my current rope lighting plugs into that is one zone of my Grafik-Eye. It is set up to dim.

So, what do I need to get a rope light that changes color and are rope lights dimmable and OK for use on a Grafik-Eye?

Thanks!
 
#12 ·
So, what do I need to get a rope light that changes color and are rope lights dimmable and OK for use on a Grafik-Eye?
I'm not sure that's a possibility. Pretty much all the color changing "rope" light I've seen is low voltage LED strips and requires a special controller. I don't know how you could interface that to a Grafik-Eye. Connecting it to a Phillips HUE system is possible though.
 
#15 ·
Updates

I bought new speakers for the theater and posted about my buying experience in the speakers forum as TruAudio B23-465s Rock! They're awesome and I've been moving them around the room while thinking about which layout I like the best.

I've also been reviewing the forums and some links that Big sent me for wall panels. I like the idea of building panels and have come up with the attached concept.

For the side walls, I was thinking of building upper and lower panels separated by a rail with some LEDs. The panels would be typical 1x2s with acoustic material and fabric.

For the front wall, I was thing about floor to ceiling panels with 1x4s built to hold the in wall speakers and acoustic materials and facbric (except where the speakers are) and then a AT screen in front of those panels on Z clips.

Thoughts, dos' and don'ts?
 

Attachments

#16 ·
Ok, I've decided to do 2 rows and not do sectionals. I've updated the drawing with my latest idea. 21' Throw using JVC X750R on a 160" 2.35 AT Screen. First row 9' from screen, Second row 15'. I've used the Theater planning spreadsheet from Carlton Bale and I think everything will work. Thoughts?
 

Attachments

#17 ·
Column or Panel to cover window?

Ok, now that I've decided to arrange the room in the best layout, with 2 rows of seats and a riser. I have a new problem that I'd like some advice on. What do you think the best method/layout would be for the side speakers? As you can see, the room has a window. In the theater room image column image below, I drew two ideas.

Idea 1 (Upper wall with Window) - build 2 wall columns with scones. hide the window behind a fabric wall panel. install the speaker in the wall and hide behind a fabric wall panel.

Idea 2 (Lower wall no Window) - similar to the Martin Logan demo room at CEDIA2015, build a single wide column with the speaker inside that would hide the window, with two side panels led lit from the back.

Note, the speakers are TruAudio B23 in walls with their own enclosures.

I've also added a pic of the entire basement so you get the feel of the flow/layout. And I've decided to go with new Fusion seating to maximize the number of seats. They have some great options that aren't super wide.
 

Attachments

#18 ·
Front wall acoustic options?

I've build some frames for the front LCRs and will have about 21" of space behind them. I did a search on "screen+wall+acoustics" and looked through the acoustic treatment thread. Please help me figure out the best treatment for the wall behind the front LCRs. Note, the wall is already finished, poured concrete, 2x4 framed, 1/2 drywall with R19 insulation. I assume that some simple bass traps in the corners and some 1-2" foam or materials from acoustimac would work?

Also, how are most people getting their insulation black?
 
#19 ·
I've build some frames for the front LCRs and will have about 21" of space behind them. I did a search on "screen+wall+acoustics" and looked through the acoustic treatment thread. Please help me figure out the best treatment for the wall behind the front LCRs. Note, the wall is already finished, poured concrete, 2x4 framed, 1/2 drywall with R19 insulation. I assume that some simple bass traps in the corners and some 1-2" foam or materials from acoustimac would work?

Also, how are most people getting their insulation black?
Anyone? No? Ok, we'll I've made some minor progress and picked up a new years gift. Out with 2015 and the Velodyne CT-100 I've had for a very long time; and in with dual SVS PC-2000s! Still NIB and will try and get to them soon, but I've made some progress on designing a screen wall and figured out it's just big enough to hide the rack. Minor progress pics below.
 

Attachments

#20 ·
Screen wall pics or drawings with a door integrated

Anyone have some pics or drawings of a screen wall with an integrated door to hide equipment? I only have 23" of depth to work with and about 30" on each side of the screen. The pic below shows to speaker frames to hold the LCRs. Primary Screen frame posts not there yet, and I just received my Acoustimac fabric samples. Thoughts?
 

Attachments

#21 ·
More minor Updates

Adding some pics of projected 140" using my current Epson 8350 before screen wall framing. Rough adjustments atm.
Lights on, Lights off comparison.
Tweeter height, slightly higher that recommended 42".
Aprox 122" wide, speaker columns will be just inside screen area and set back about 6".
Aprox 21" from floor.
Aprox 3" from bottom of soffit. Note, the back wall will be treated and soffit painted black.
And yes, my new SVS subs are still in the box :)
 

Attachments

#23 ·
LCR Speaker Frames

A little more progress this weekend. As expected the location for the speakers were exactly where the existing studs were located. So I build some frames to hold the speakers. The frames are 1"x4"s grade A pine.

Each frame is 2'x8', done with Kregg pocket holes and wood glue. I've added 1/2" MDF to the center section to mount the InWall Speakers. MDF panels are 24"x 40.5" and glued and nailed to the frame. Speaker cutouts were done with the TruAudio supplied templates, centered on the panels.

Decided on Rustoleum Flat Black for the frames. 2 coats, 24hr drying and now the frames have the speakers installed, and the frames are wedged between the floor and soffit, with a screw into the wall stud for security.

Couple of pics, including me trying to figure out how BIG is TOO Big?
 

Attachments

#24 ·
New PJ Ordered - RS500

Quick update, ordered a new JVC RS500 from Mike at AVS. Outstanding sales support, price and return policy. The eagerness and pain of watching my Epson 8350 is now killing me. :)
 
#25 ·
It's here! Finally made it back from Boston to do the unboxing. Here are some pics.

Great packing, box in a box with bubble wrap and peanuts.
Serial number starts with 17, so its one of the newer ones!
Old and New side by sides.

Now to read the details of the manual and those really long treads on calibration/setup and the calibration software. :)
 

Attachments

#26 ·
Bar Stools - Costco Find

After hanging my JVC RS500 and playing with screen sizes, I've decided not to do a riser for the 2nd row due to eyesight and image throw. Instead, I'm going to do a pit sectional with bar/stools. Found these cool bar stools at Costco today for under $150 each. Comfortable, height adjustable and felt great. Note: for guests and kids. :)
 

Attachments

#27 ·
After hanging my JVC RS500 and playing with screen sizes, I've decided not to do a riser for the 2nd row due to eyesight and image throw. Instead, I'm going to do a pit sectional with bar/stools. Found these cool bar stools at Costco today for under $150 each. Comfortable, height adjustable and felt great. Note: for guests and kids. :)
Updated layout
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: chirpie and Bagua
#28 ·
Coming together nicely. The SVS's bring back memories. My first "real" sub was a pair of 16-46pc+'s back in the day. My wife was a real trooper allowing two water heaters to hang around in the living room. :cool:
 
  • Like
Reactions: bpassman
#30 ·
April 2016 Update

Wow, my last post was October 2015? Crap time has flown by and I have not made enough progress....thanks to work, wife, life and kids. ;) Anyway, I've broken down all the gear to finish the major construction and finish the drywall and corner beads.

After much debate on where to put the equipment, I decided to put a rack in the back of the room integrated into the back wall and visible from the bar area. Thanks to everyone who posted pics in the multiple Show me your Racks threads!

I've framed up one side of the rear wall, with a rough in for the equipment rack. Should I frame a 24" opening and then build up the inside frame with a custom door? Or just build it to size? Feedback needed, so I can finalize the studs and shoot the base plate into the concrete and the secure the top plate with some hurricane hangers to the soffit which is secured to a joist.

I'm framing a 4ft opening for sliding barn doors. Not because they're the rage, but because they don't take up space in the theater or the bar area. Still not decided on style, but they will be solid wood, not a composite slab.

Pics:
  • Couple of the front wall with screen removed, LCRs in their false wall frames and the 2 SVS Subs.
  • Couple looking back toward the rear wall with rack, and some of the backside of that wall.
  • 1 of the work area in a different part of the basement. Or otherwise known as a future project. :0
 

Attachments

#31 ·
Wow, my last post was October 2015? Crap time has flown by and I have not made enough progress....thanks to work, wife, life and kids. ;) Anyway, I've broken down all the gear to finish the major construction and finish the drywall and corner beads.

After much debate on where to put the equipment, I decided to put a rack in the back of the room integrated into the back wall and visible from the bar area. Thanks to everyone who posted pics in the multiple Show me your Racks threads!

I've framed up one side of the rear wall, with a rough in for the equipment rack. Should I frame a 24" opening and then build up the inside frame with a custom door? Or just build it to size? Feedback needed, so I can finalize the studs and shoot the base plate into the concrete and the secure the top plate with some hurricane hangers to the soffit which is secured to a joist.

I'm framing a 4ft opening for sliding barn doors. Not because they're the rage, but because they don't take up space in the theater or the bar area. Still not decided on style, but they will be solid wood, not a composite slab.

Pics:
  • Couple of the front wall with screen removed, LCRs in their false wall frames and the 2 SVS Subs.
  • Couple looking back toward the rear wall with rack, and some of the backside of that wall.
  • 1 of the work area in a different part of the basement. Or otherwise known as a future project. :0
Is it wrong to continue buying AV gear while you're still building the room? My answer, NO!

Adding an Emotiva XPA-7 Gen2 very soon!
 
#32 ·
Amps!

While trolling the classified section, I stumbled upon an Emotiva XPA-7 Gen 2 from Cutler. (thanks man!) And so my Atmos speakers don't feel lonely, I ordered an XPA-5 Gen 2 before they disappear too. Now all I need is to replace my AVR with a processor. I'm thinking Anthem AVM60.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: chirpie
#34 ·
While trolling the classified section, I stumbled upon an Emotiva XPA-7 Gen 2 from Cutler. (thanks man!) And so my Atmos speakers don't feel lonely, I ordered an XPA-5 Gen 2 before they disappear too. Now all I need is to replace my AVR with a processor. I'm thinking Anthem AVM60.
And like that, the upgrade bug hit me. I'm no longer a Pioneer Elite owner and have moved to an Anthem AVM 60 to get to 11.2 processing. Cant' wait to get everything setup and connected to my new Emotiva XPA-7 and XPA-5. These TruAudio B23's are gonna sing! Here's some pics of the AVM 60 unboxing and getting it in the rack. Now to register the new unit and start downloading the firmware, ARC software and the manuals.
 

Attachments

#35 · (Edited)
1" or 2" Wedge Foam for Screen Wall - Advice needed

Ok, I'm almost done with the back wall and want to start planning and buying the resources to finish the screen wall. Since my in wall speakers are going to be a false wall/frame, I'm not sure what size foam wedge to use.

The speaker frames/columns are 4" deep, 2ft wide and 8ft tall. I went this route so I didn't have to open the wall and move studs that are in the way of the perfect speaker position. :)

I'm thinking the 2" foam wedges would be the right size to use?

http://www.foambymail.com/AW2/acoustical-2-wedge-foam.html

Is the wedge the best shape to use?

For installation, I was going to put up a layer of landscape fabric on the wall before glueing the foam squares on. I think most people are using the landscape fabric to keep the fiberglass/roxul contained? I like the idea of using it to keep all the foam glue off the drywall. Or would using T pins work?

thoughts and feedback?
 
#36 ·
I've always used Linacoustic on my front walls. Two layers with a layer of 3mil plastic between layers. You can attach with screws not glue. McCormicks insulation in Mannassas is where I buy it. a 100x4 ft roll of 1 inch is around $160.
 
#38 ·
I thought I saw you used the acoustic squares on your wall, was that to start then replaced by linacoustic after trial/research? I ended up ordering 2" wedge from foambymail. I secretly like the way it looks.
Do you think I would need more that just the 2" wedges?
 
#39 ·
May 2016 Slowdown

Well, between installing my new XPA7 into the rack, lifting the rack into place and missing a step on the ladder while doing drywall/corner beads....I'm down for the count for a couple of weeks. Sound familiar right MississippiMan? Thankfully, I didn't break/fracture anything but I do have a torn hip flexor muscle some new steroids and a really good pain killer/muscle relaxer. :) Kinda sucks, because my new Emotiva XPA-5 arrives tomorrow and it's going to sit in the box. Just like the 2" wedge foam panels that arrived today.

And yes, I've thought of hiring a contractor...but the DIYer in me won't go there. ;)

I'll update in a couple of weeks when there's some progress.
 
#40 ·
Well, between installing my new XPA7 into the rack, lifting the rack into place and missing a step on the ladder while doing drywall/corner beads....I'm down for the count for a couple of weeks. Sound familiar right MississippiMan? Thankfully, I didn't break/fracture anything but I do have a torn hip flexor muscle some new steroids and a really good pain killer/muscle relaxer. :) Kinda sucks, because my new Emotiva XPA-5 arrives tomorrow and it's going to sit in the box. Just like the 2" wedge foam panels that arrived today.

And yes, I've thought of hiring a contractor...but the DIYer in me won't go there. ;)

I'll update in a couple of weeks when there's some progress.
So while trying not to work on the theater, I ran across this woor flooring product on HD. From a company called Nuvelle, looks quite interesting, maybe a wall column or wainscoting.

Anyone seen or tried something like this?


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nuvelle-...Wall-Strips-10-334-sq-ft-case-NV8DS/206194849
 
#41 ·
Lower 1/3 Wall Ideas

While not being able to do much in the theater, I've been visiting Lowes and HD more.... I found a couple of products that were interesting looking that might serve well on the lower 1/3 and provide some diffusion. Thoughts?

1. Lowes - Timberwalls Peel & Stick

2. Lowes - AirStone

3. HD - Stone Ledger wall tiles - MSI Coal Canyon Ledger

4. HD - Stone Faux Panels -
 
#44 ·

Attachments

#43 ·
Yeah, some of these products seem a little expensive. But would add texture and character to a room. At $60 for 11SqFt, the TimberWALL would be about $1K for the lower 1/3. Then I figure leave the top painted drywall with some panels and posters, maybe full fabric frames if I have an budget monet left.


Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
 
#46 · (Edited)
Zinsser Time = Primed

Back from a business trip and with some help from my son, the room is primed! Will be painting the front screen wall and front lower soffit black tomorrow.

Edit - little more work before bed. Cut and installed the rear surrounds and moved the LCRs back into the room.
 

Attachments

#47 ·
Paint Front Wall - Done

Well, before I go on another business trip I managed to get the front wall painted. Turned out pretty good with just 1 coat. I used Behr Blackout (pic below) on the front screen wall and the rest is just gray primer.

I also received the 2" wedge foam, but that will have to wait until I'm back. Any recommendations for installing the wedge foam? I hear T-Pins are a good method over glue.

And the final 2 B23s from TruAudio arrived for the sides are awaiting install.

While I'm gone, I expect my new AV Rack, a Middle Atlantic RCS-4224 will arrive.

Till I'm back, what do you guys think of that wood cladding from Lowes, Timberwall?
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top