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Old 06-06-2015, 06:34 AM - Thread Starter
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CJ theater build thread

Ok, I'm officially kicking off my theater roombuild thread. I studied this forum for the past three or four months andI still have a lot to go, but I believe I've absorbed enough to getstarted. By the way, I'll probably change the theater name at some point,I just needed something to get this thing started.

I bought the house in September of last year and thereis a place in the basement set up as a "theater room." Inquotes because it is simply an area in the basement, open to the rest of thebasement, where the previous owners hung a screen and threw up somecheap in-wall speakers. I was originally going to just build a wall toclose in the room and call it a day, but then I decided that as long as I'mgoing to do anything, I might as well do it right. The room is 14'7" wide, and because of design constraints, I am limited to making the room 21' long. The room is 8'6" high in the tray and 7'6" high at the bottom of the chase.

Here is what the space looked like





I have since started the demolition, and the space now looks like this







Here is the basic design. There will be a false wall with AT screen, ~125in 16:9 with electric masking system. First row eyes will be pretty close at about 9ft. I will be using some combination of buttkickers/Aura Pro. Recliners in the front row and a sofa in the second because of length constraints. The equipment will be in an unfinished storage room that is near the theater room











This design will actually be changed slightly as I'm removing the half wall behind the second row and adding that space to the half wall / foot rest between the rows. The idea is that I want to fit two SI HT18 in that half wall for near field effect and to supplement the subs behind the AT screen. I'm wondering if anyone has ever tried this and if it is a good or bad idea.


For lighting I will use Insteon and I'm currently planning on 8 zones:
1) recessed lights - sides and back of room
2) recessed lights - sides nearest the screen (got this idea from the "what I would have done differently" thread)
3) recessed lights - screen wash
4) uplights behind screen (if they will fit in the design)
5) Sconces on columns (this may be removed)
6) step lights in riser
7) Color changing rope lights in soffits
8) Black lights in soffits for star ceiling mural


I plan on having a painted star ceiling in the tray


Equipment is up in the air at this point, but I'm hoping to fit 6 SI HT drivers in ported enclosures behind the AT screen. I was originally thinking JTR for L/C/R, but now I'm thinking DIY, maybe a set of the 1099s, to keep costs down a little. I already have a cheap projector to hold me until 4k becomes reasonable. I also have a perf 125in AT screen, but I will eventually go with a 4k screen.


Currently my main issues are HVAC and soundproofing.


Soundproofing:
Soundproofing is important, but I have space constraints (especially in the width and height dimensions) and I'm not sure how much interior space I'm willing to give up to achieve a soundproofed room. I can control the height of the ceiling, at the lowest point, by making the shell at the tray height and then building the chases inside the shell (and making them shorter by the comparable amount of height I lose from decoupling the ceiling from the joists). The side walls are a different story because I have a non-standard construction that may present additional challenges. I started a thread a few weeks ago about this, but didn't get any responses. My basement was built with Superior Walls Xi http://www.superiorwalls.com/products/xiwall.php. This manufactured wall has concrete studs (with rebar) encased in foam with galvanized stud facings (see link and/or attached photos). The builder has attached drywall directly to the galvanized steel facing. If I want to add DD/GG, I'm thinking I need to reinforce the studs and the manufacturer recommends building a frame between the studs for hanging or attaching heavy items. Before I go to the trouble of framing between every stud, I'm wondering if I even need to decouple the walls. How much sound will transmit through foam covered concrete and is DD/GG even necessary on these walls? I would obviously like to be able skip this process if possible, and only DD/GG the ceiling.


Here is a pic of the wall from an unfinished room in the basement:



Width is at a premium, so I don't want to do something that really narrows the room. I'm also guessing that it really makes no sense to decouple the ceiling if the walls are coupled. Anyone have any ideas what to do with these walls?


I'll continue with the HVAC questions in my next post.









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Old 06-06-2015, 07:20 AM - Thread Starter
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HVAC questions:


The basement and the main floor are on the same system. I wanted to put the theater on its own zone, but the theater area is currently fed from a main branch that also feed a number of other basement and first floor registers, some of which are directly above the theater room. Worse yet, there is rigid metal duct run in the right-side soffit (along with a gas line, a drain line, and some water supply pipes).


Issue 1: Zoning system for theater


I thought that maybe a home run could be added from the main HVAC plenum to the theater room and then that could be zoned separate from the other branches. I called in a couple HVAC guys for a consult and they both basically said, "no way." The first problem is that the system was installed without zoning in mind, so there is not enough space with the unit to fit a new branch for the theater and also a pressure bypass. To do so, the system would have to be laid on its side and then all the lines (gas, duct, etc.) re-run to the new location. On top of that, feeding a single room off of a 3.5 ton unit would not work because the bypass would have to be absolutely huge and it would probably screw up the system to have that much cold air returning directly to the system. You can get away from this potential problem if you use special dampers that have built in bypasses (think spring loaded doors in part of the butterfly valve so that when pressure is too high, that spring loaded door opens and bleeds pressure to other zones. The problem with this approach is that the spring loaded doors cannot be calibrated, so if they do not bleed enough pressure, you can end up with too much velocity at the registers in the theater, resulting in noise. Also, it really ends up being no different than just running the system for the entire basement and first floors when only needing AC in the theater because there will always be excess pressure to bleed off. If that's the case, then why not just put a secondary t-stat and control in the theater and use that when using the theater. The rest of the basement and 1st floor will be over cooled, which is wasteful, but I'm not sure there is a feasible alternative. The cost to just lay the unit on its side and re-run lines was around $6k, so that's not going to happen. So right now, I'm planning on just going with the secondary t-stat and controller in the theater. Anyone have comments/feedback on this idea? I know its a compromise, but it may be the best possible solution (and on the bright side, probably the cheapest).


Issue 2: Rigid duct in the theater:


This one is hard to explain in words, but I'll give it a shot. Here is the rigid duct in the chase:






The HVAC guys didn't want to only run flexible duct because of pressure drop issues. I looked on this site and it appears to be a fairly contentious issue. I'm thinking I can probably take the rigid duct out of the chase, turn it 90 degrees from where it is now and run it between the joists just in front of the wall (outside the theater) that I will build to enclose the theater. I should be able to then re-run two legs totally outside the theater. The two legs that feed the 1st floor directly above the theater can be run with flexible duct, and enter the theater right above the door in the back of the room and follow the chase around the perimeter of the room before exiting the soundproof shell in the appropriate locations. The theater will have two 6in supplies and they can enter off the new rigid duct along the right side chase with one branch then moving to the left side chase near the front of the room by running between the joists. The other potential plan for the theater supplies is to run a much smaller rigid duct in the right side soffit near the right side wall and under the gas and water lines. I would then build the soundproof shell inside of the metal duct and water/gas/drain lines. This means the chase would be split in half with 1/2 being inside the shell and 1/2 being outside the shell. I think this is probably the best plan because I would probably have to do something similar for the gas/water/drain lines anyway.


In this pic you can see three of the existing branches travelling from the metal duct in the right side chase to the left side wall where two go up to the first floor and one feeds the theater room.



In this pic you can see two runs from the metal duct that are in the defined theater area. One of these feeds the basement on the other side of the room and the other feeds the first floor. These are the two runs I think I can keep completely out of the theater room by turning the metal duct 90 deg and running it between the joists along the outside of the back theater room wall.



I should also mention that one of my goals is to decrease the width of the chase. Its currently 24in wide and I think it looks disproportional to the room. So everything is going to get more cramped in the chase (especially when I need space to install recessed lights)


In the above pic, where the drywall is missing defines the dimensions of the theater room. The metal duct comes from room behind the door on the right side of the picture. So the metal duct turns right 90 degrees. I am thinking about running the duct straight (remove the 90 deg turn) but have it move up so that it is between the joists. It would be between the first set of joists where the drywall begins in the pic above.


This is clear in my head because I have walked through the room and I wrote the description, but it may be unclear to others. Please let me know if this is confusing and I will try to clarify with additional pictures and text. If it is clear, I'm looking for feedback. Is this the best approach given my constraints, or is there a better way to do this? Also, If I go with a small rigid metal duct for the two 6in feeds to the theater, what dimensions would suffice? I know that for flexible duct, you usually go with an 8in for two 6s, but is it generally the same for rigid, or can you get away with less because it is more efficient?


I have an idea for a return which I will discuss in a subsequent post.




By the way, is this seating distance too immersive?
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Old 06-06-2015, 09:52 AM
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Have you considered a dedicated mini-split unit?
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Old 06-06-2015, 10:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Have you considered a dedicated mini-split unit?
Yes, in fact both HVAC guys recommended that, but the only external wall I have that isn't below grade is on the left side and I really don't want a mini-split plainly visible in the room. If the theater was a side entrance and I could hide it in the back, then I would probably go with that.


Plus, I would still need to deal with the existing metal duct work.


BTW, I like your theater.

Last edited by VTstang; 06-06-2015 at 10:17 AM.
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Old 06-06-2015, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
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Yes, in fact both HVAC guys recommended that, but the only external wall I have that isn't below grade is on the left side and I really don't want a mini-split plainly visible in the room. If the theater was a side entrance and I could hide it in the back, then I would probably go with that.
I used a "ducted" minisplit, so the air handler is in the attic.
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Old 06-06-2015, 10:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I used a "ducted" minisplit, so the air handler is in the attic.

I'm going to have to look into this. My room is in the basement, so I cant put anything above the room, but I may be able to run duct from an unfinished adjacent room. I specifically asked the second HVAC guy about a ducted mini-split and he had some reason why it wouldn't work, but I don't remember what it was at this point. What is the price range for a decent ducted mini-split?
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Old 06-06-2015, 12:33 PM
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I have a Miitsubishi 12,000 btu/hr ducted mini-split heat pump. You can get just that unit on the Internet for about $2,100. My installation included all the ductwork register and a dehumidifier (plus the "Pebble Beach" upcharge) and was about $7,500 installed.
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Old 06-07-2015, 09:16 AM - Thread Starter
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I have a Miitsubishi 12,000 btu/hr ducted mini-split heat pump. You can get just that unit on the Internet for about $2,100. My installation included all the ductwork register and a dehumidifier (plus the "Pebble Beach" upcharge) and was about $7,500 installed.
I looked into ducted systems on the internet and it looks like the only place I could fit the air handler is next to the existing unit and then attempt to run duct next to the existing duct. I'm not sure if it will fit, but even if it will, I still need to fix the existing metal duct in the right side theater room chase and figure out a return or dead vent from the theater. So, as far as I can tell, the only benefit of a ducted mini-split system is the ability to control AC to the theater room independently of the rest of the basement/first floor. I'm not sure that is worth $7,500 (or even ~$3,000 if I attempt the install myself). How bad an idea is it to control the existing system based on the temperature in the theater and let the temperature fall where it may in the rest of the basement/first floor? I would think that the worst case scenario would be ~2 hours of operation at a time based on theater room temp.
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:06 AM
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... How bad an idea is it to control the existing system based on the temperature in the theater and let the temperature fall where it may in the rest of the basement/first floor? I would think that the worst case scenario would be ~2 hours of operation at a time based on theater room temp.
I would think that might be pretty uncomfortable for the rest of the house. Maybe system of fans and dead vents to circulate air through the theater would work for you.
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Old 06-08-2015, 07:44 AM - Thread Starter
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I would think that might be pretty uncomfortable for the rest of the house. Maybe system of fans and dead vents to circulate air through the theater would work for you.

I've come to the conclusion that you are probably correct, and that I was trying to convince myself of a half-assed solution in an attempt to save money. Now I need to figure out how to fit the ducted mini-split into my basement, and find someone willing to install it at reasonable price.


Does a ducted mini split operate just like a regular central unit, i.e. is there a wall mounted thermostat? I want to be able to integrate the unit into my Insteon system, is it as simple as substituting an Insteon t-stat, or is there more to it than that?

On to soundproofing questions now. Anyone have feedback on my basement walls?
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Old 06-08-2015, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
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...Does a ducted mini split operate just like a regular central unit, i.e. is there a wall mounted thermostat? I want to be able to integrate the unit into my Insteon system, is it as simple as substituting an Insteon t-stat, or is there more to it than that?
My unit is a Mitsubishi, and it uses a proprietary RF system for the thermostat. I believe other brands can use coventional thermostats which could integrate with your Insteon control system.

The truth is, I leave the thermostat alone. The room is built like an icehouse, so it really needs very little A/C, except when it has a bunch of people. Full disclosure, the weather is very temperate here, so I have a relatively trivial A/C problem.
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Old 06-08-2015, 03:10 PM
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looking good!
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Old 06-08-2015, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
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I looked into ducted systems on the internet and it looks like the only place I could fit the air handler is next to the existing unit and then attempt to run duct next to the existing duct. I'm not sure if it will fit, but even if it will, I still need to fix the existing metal duct in the right side theater room chase and figure out a return or dead vent from the theater. So, as far as I can tell, the only benefit of a ducted mini-split system is the ability to control AC to the theater room independently of the rest of the basement/first floor. I'm not sure that is worth $7,500 (or even ~$3,000 if I attempt the install myself). How bad an idea is it to control the existing system based on the temperature in the theater and let the temperature fall where it may in the rest of the basement/first floor? I would think that the worst case scenario would be ~2 hours of operation at a time based on theater room temp.

$7500....YIKES!

You seem pretty handy for the work you've accomplished thus far. I purchased the Mitsubishi MY-GE12NA 12,000 BTU 20.5 SEER Ductless Mini Split System for less than $1200. I placed the compressor on the unfinished side of the basement. I ran 220 to it and wired up the air handler. I purchased the 50' line set and ran it to the air handler but was literally just a half foot short. I had an HVAC guy fab an extension and charge the system for less than $300. So for less than $1500 you could DIY a minisplit.

Of course you would have the air handler in the room, but with some spray paint, it becomes innocuous.

I painted it flat black & mounted it on the rear wall, between the rear surrounds....



We actually use the heat pump during the winter MORE than the AC during the summer.




.

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Old 06-09-2015, 06:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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$7500....YIKES!

You seem pretty handy for the work you've accomplished thus far. I purchased the Mitsubishi MY-GE12NA 12,000 BTU 20.5 SEER Ductless Mini Split System for less than $1200. I placed the compressor on the unfinished side of the basement. I ran 220 to it and wired up the air handler. I purchased the 50' line set and ran it to the air handler but was literally just a half foot short. I had an HVAC guy fab an extension and charge the system for less than $300. So for less than $1500 you could DIY a minisplit.

Of course you would have the air handler in the room, but with some spray paint, it becomes innocuous.

I painted it flat black & mounted it on the rear wall, between the rear surrounds....



We actually use the heat pump during the winter MORE than the AC during the summer.




.


My room has to have the entrance in the rear, and with the height limitations, I become very limited on where I can mount a ductless mini split. If I had 10ft ceilings and could place it in the back near the ceiling, I would probably go with your setup, I just don't want the thing visible and/or people dodging it on the way into or out of the room. That leaves me with a ductless mini split which is 2X the price of a comparable ductless mini split right off the bat. I don't mind running the duct, I just have no experience with installing an HVAC unit, but maybe if you're telling me its doable, I will give it a shot.


I may have to do it myself anyway because both of the HVAC guys I had come out to look at the general project got scared off. I called one of them again yesterday to pitch the ducted mini split idea and he hasn't called back...... I guess that around here, HVAC guys want standard easy work and do not want to risk getting involved in projects with unknown challenges.

By the way, I've never heard of putting the "outside unit" on the inside, in an unfinished room. How loud is that unit when its running?

On a side note, rms, your theater build was the first one I came across that made me decide I should do more than just throw a wall up to enclose the room and call it a day -- Very cool space!
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Old 06-09-2015, 07:55 AM
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My room has to have the entrance in the rear, and with the height limitations, I become very limited on where I can mount a ductless mini split. If I had 10ft ceilings and could place it in the back near the ceiling, I would probably go with your setup, I just don't want the thing visible and/or people dodging it on the way into or out of the room. That leaves me with a ductless mini split which is 2X the price of a comparable ductless mini split right off the bat. I don't mind running the duct, I just have no experience with installing an HVAC unit, but maybe if you're telling me its doable, I will give it a shot.


I may have to do it myself anyway because both of the HVAC guys I had come out to look at the general project got scared off. I called one of them again yesterday to pitch the ducted mini split idea and he hasn't called back...... I guess that around here, HVAC guys want standard easy work and do not want to risk getting involved in projects with unknown challenges.

By the way, I've never heard of putting the "outside unit" on the inside, in an unfinished room. How loud is that unit when its running?

On a side note, rms, your theater build was the first one I came across that made me decide I should do more than just throw a wall up to enclose the room and call it a day -- Very cool space!

Let me ask this question....are you doing the electrical yourself? If yes, it is DOABLE!

The "outside" unit is VERY, VERY QUIET !!!!!! I installed it as far away from the HT room as possible thinking it would be loud. It is actually not loud at all. Just sounds like a box fan on medium. You don't have to mount the unit on the rear wall. Any wall will do. All yo have to do is run wire to it from the compressor and a line set. If you really only have room for a small vent, a ducted unit would be prefect then. I did price them out a long time ago and yeah, they were more $$ than what I ended up getting, but still VERY reasonable, comparatively speaking.

I think a minisplit of any configuration will be your best solution. It may seem intimidating at first, but trust me, it really is a simple install.

I wish you the best of luck which ever direction you choose!


PS: THX for the props too.



.
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Old 06-09-2015, 11:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Let me ask this question....are you doing the electrical yourself? If yes, it is DOABLE!

The "outside" unit is VERY, VERY QUIET !!!!!! I installed it as far away from the HT room as possible thinking it would be loud. It is actually not loud at all. Just sounds like a box fan on medium. You don't have to mount the unit on the rear wall. Any wall will do. All yo have to do is run wire to it from the compressor and a line set. If you really only have room for a small vent, a ducted unit would be prefect then. I did price them out a long time ago and yeah, they were more $$ than what I ended up getting, but still VERY reasonable, comparatively speaking.

I think a minisplit of any configuration will be your best solution. It may seem intimidating at first, but trust me, it really is a simple install.

I wish you the best of luck which ever direction you choose!


PS: THX for the props too.



.
Yes, I'm doing the electrical myself. OK you've convinced me, I'm going to try to install the ducted mini split myself.


Question on your "loose" mini-risers. Are they sitting directly on the floor, or are they sitting on carpet? I'm guessing the carpet stops at the mini-risers, but I wanted to make sure because I believe that Spaceman's theater, and the other theater he helped with, both have mini-risers sitting on top of existing carpet.


Now I need to get some feedback on soundproofing and my concrete basement walls. I can't seem to get anyone to bite on that topic.
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Old 06-09-2015, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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I just thought of another question. How did you wire the fan in your air exchange system? Is it wired to come on with the mini split?
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Old 06-09-2015, 11:50 AM
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Yes, I'm doing the electrical myself. OK you've convinced me, I'm going to try to install the ducted mini split myself.


Question on your "loose" mini-risers. Are they sitting directly on the floor, or are they sitting on carpet? I'm guessing the carpet stops at the mini-risers, but I wanted to make sure because I believe that Spaceman's theater, and the other theater he helped with, both have mini-risers sitting on top of existing carpet.


Now I need to get some feedback on soundproofing and my concrete basement walls. I can't seem to get anyone to bite on that topic.

The rear riser and complete HT floor are all carpeted. Then each of the two mini-platforms are each completely carpeted. It was A LOT of carpet!!!

I didn't want to take the chance of going a different direction in the future and have big barren spots under the platforms.....


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Old 06-09-2015, 11:53 AM
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I just thought of another question. How did you wire the fan in your air exchange system? Is it wired to come on with the mini split?
The air exchange is controlled via two different ways, one being a programmable timer. I also have a solid state relay to activate the air exchanger when the receiver powers on (via 12VDC trigger). I have pics of those items in my build thread.


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Old 06-09-2015, 03:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, I am looking at two ducted mini splits. They are both around $2000. The first is less of a brand name (at least that I'm aware of), but has a much higher efficiency rating at 20 SEER. - https://www.acwholesalers.com/Fujits...subCat=cat1033


The second is a Mitsubishi, but is only 16 SEER (and is about $120 more) - https://www.acwholesalers.com/Mitsub...subCat=cat1033


I'm leaning toward the first for the added efficiency, but I could be talked into the Mitsubishi also. Thoughts?
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Old 06-09-2015, 05:54 PM
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I'm leaning toward the first for the added efficiency, but I could be talked into the Mitsubishi also. Thoughts?
The Mitsubishi has the proprietary thermostat, so the Fujitsu might be better for your purposes, if it will use a standard thermostat.
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Old 06-09-2015, 07:57 PM - Thread Starter
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The Mitsubishi has the proprietary thermostat, so the Fujitsu might be better for your purposes, if it will use a standard thermostat.
True, I just wanted to make sure Fujitsu is a decent brand before I pull the trigger.
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Old 06-10-2015, 05:06 AM
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True, I just wanted to make sure Fujitsu is a decent brand before I pull the trigger.

I should point out that when lebron says "proprietary" thermostat, it is actually a remote controlled thermostat! I consider that a bonus! If someone complains about the temp in the room, you don't have to get up, just click the remote to the temp and fan speed you want.

I believe the SEER rating for minisplits may not 100% correspond to the same SEER rating for conventional AC units. I wouldn't worry about the difference in the SEER numbers.


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Old 06-10-2015, 06:28 AM - Thread Starter
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I should point out that when lebron says "proprietary" thermostat, it is actually a remote controlled thermostat! I consider that a bonus! If someone complains about the temp in the room, you don't have to get up, just click the remote to the temp and fan speed you want.

I believe the SEER rating for minisplits may not 100% correspond to the same SEER rating for conventional AC units. I wouldn't worry about the difference in the SEER numbers.


.
I am planning on controlling through Insteon which means I should be able to control the temp from my iphone/ipad - so in that respect it is similar to the Mitsubishi remote. However, I will certainly have my phone on me instead of having to account for yet another remote if I have the Mitsubishi model. One of my goals is to go on a serious remote control diet.


Also, while the SEER ratings may or may not be universal (I haven't bothered to research), the fact that your Mitsubishi is over 20 SEER and the ducted Mitsubishi is 16 SEER I believe is relevant. I still can't necessarily correlate across to the Fujitsu model, but I do know the ducted Mitsubishi way less efficient than your ductless Mitsubishi. I think I'll probably buy the Fujitsu model this evening unless I learn that they are unreliable or cheaply constructed.
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Old 06-10-2015, 10:40 AM
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I should point out that when LeBon on says "proprietary" thermostat, it is actually a remote controlled thermostat! I consider that a bonus! If someone complains about the temp in the room, you don't have to get up, just click the remote to the temp and fan speed you want.
It is "proprietary in the sense that it uses a Mitsu version of Honeywell RedLink RF link. I have the wall-mounted version of their thermostat, not the hand-held one. I am interested in having my automation system force the fan to ON mode, but I haven't (so far) had any need to adjust the temp.
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Old 06-11-2015, 02:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Was about to buy the 12000BTU Fujitsu ducted mini split when I came across some information in the "Plains Theater" thread.


------------------------------------------
2) 1 Ton of cooling is equivalent to 12,000 BTU/Hr
3) 1 Ton of cooling can supply approximately 400 cfm of cooled air. This is a general rule of thumb used for sizing HVAC and will vary.
4) Each person generates roughly 500 BTU/hr at rest
5) Not considering the bar area, the theater will seat 8 people. This will require 4000 BTU/hr of cooling (8people * 500BTU/hr/person). I am assuming that when the theater is full including the bar at the rear (10 or 11 people), we will likely be watching a sporting event like the super bowl and will have the door open anyway.
6) The required cfm of cooled air is approximately

400 cfm/(12000 BTU/hr) * 4000 BTU/hr = 134 cfm
----------------------------------------------


My room will only have seating for 6. If there is plenty of headroom for a 8 person theater with a 12000BTU unit, should I just buy the 9000BTU unit and save a few hundred dollars, or should I just buy the extra headroom just in case?


If I run the calculation with 6 people, it becomes 400/12000 * 3000 = 100 cfm when the 12000BTU unit is capable of 400cfm.


The 9000 BTU still has 3 times my required capacity.


I know this doesn't account for the heat put off by the projector, but the equipment will not be in the room.


Thoughts?
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Old 06-11-2015, 08:17 PM
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What about the heat load from outside the room (I think the engineers call it "sensible" load )? You need to figure out your worst-case weather day, and then look at the exposure of the room to that condition. This is your baseline load, and the people and equipment loads are in addition to that.
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Old 06-12-2015, 05:15 AM - Thread Starter
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What about the heat load from outside the room (I think the engineers call it "sensible" load )? You need to figure out your worst-case weather day, and then look at the exposure of the room to that condition. This is your baseline load, and the people and equipment loads are in addition to that.
The room has two external walls, one partially below grade, the third wall is partially below grade and shares the rest of the wall with the garage, and I will construct the fourth wall which will be common with the rest of the open basement. I don't think there will be much heat load from outside the room as it stays pretty cool year round in the basement. That being said, I don't want to somehow end up short on capacity, but at the same time I don't want to end up with more than 250fpm at the registers. I guess I could always bleed off pressure from the supply duct if I had to reduce velocity at the register for noise mitigation.
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Old 06-12-2015, 08:31 AM
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The room has two external walls, one partially below grade, the third wall is partially below grade and shares the rest of the wall with the garage, and I will construct the fourth wall which will be common with the rest of the open basement. I don't think there will be much heat load from outside the room as it stays pretty cool year round in the basement. That being said, I don't want to somehow end up short on capacity, but at the same time I don't want to end up with more than 250fpm at the registers. I guess I could always bleed off pressure from the supply duct if I had to reduce velocity at the register for noise mitigation.
Just for reference, from my 12,000 Btu/hr air handler, I ran 2 10-inch supply ducts, and 2 10-inch return ducts. The 4 supply and return registers are 4" x 48". The system is dead quiet. The room measured NC-26 with the HVAC fans running.
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Old 06-12-2015, 10:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Just for reference, from my 12,000 Btu/hr air handler, I ran 2 10-inch supply ducts, and 2 10-inch return ducts. The 4 supply and return registers are 4" x 48". The system is dead quiet. The room measured NC-26 with the HVAC fans running.
Ok, you have two large ducts supplying enormous diffusers. I would expect your room to be silent. I will be limited to 6-7 in flexible duct feeding much smaller diffusers. My concern is that I'll be over 250fpm at the diffusers and there will be audible air noise.
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