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The Studier theater build (Atmos)

1K views 29 replies 6 participants last post by  lovingdvd 
#1 ·
Hello all,

This will be my third (and final!) theater build, and since I have used this site an infinite amount of times over the years for help and inspiration, I thought I would share the process this time. I will start by posting a few photos of my last theater, which was really great. But I plan on improving upon it by a large margin in both performance and soundproofing. Any help or encouragement greatly appreciated!! Matt
 

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#2 ·
Here are some photos of the framing that is complete. I think I have a few issues to tackle, starting with the overhead speakers for Atmos.
I have all large Polk Audio towers for the 7.1 system, so I bought the larger Polk RTI-A3 bookshelves to try and better match all the large tower speakers. I have no idea how to mount them at this point so I may just do some in Ceiling speakers but I don't know if I will be as happy going that route. You can see the hat channel on the floor in some photos...
 

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#4 ·
But I plan on improving upon it by a large margin in both performance and soundproofing. Any help or encouragement greatly appreciated!! Matt
Tell us your sound proofing plan, it is not obvious from how you framed.
 
#5 ·
Hi Big,

I am planning on either roxul in the ceiling or double R-19 insulation. Clip and channel system with double drywall and green glue. Considering doing single layer on the walls...is that a bad idea? The electricians have to come back and move the cans/ sconces to accommodate for the channel and drywall. Im sure i have lots more I could do regarding sound proofing...Other questions would be how do I create a place to mount the projector and still maintain all the ceiling sound proofing I'm doing?
 
#6 · (Edited)
A few soundproofing questions:
1) HVAC supply: What is your plan for reducing sound that would escape through the HVAC supply duct?

2) HVAC return: If your room will be soundproofed, you will need a return duct/vent in the room? Do you have one already? How do you plan to reduce sound that would escape through the return duct?

3) Walls: Single layer on the walls will allow sound to flank the DD/GG in the ceiling. Probably not worth DD/GG on the ceiling if you do not plan to do the walls

4) Ceiling / Walls: Are you planning significant trim work? If so, you can replace the first layer with OSB instead of 5/8" drywall. That way, you do not have to hunt for studs later. You can also put a sheet of plywood as the first layer in the area where you plan to hang the projector.

5) Electrical boxes: Do you plan to minimize penetrations in the DD/GG shell by putting outlets and switches in columns, the riser and surface boxes? Or, do you plan to use puddy pads to reduce sound escaping through electrical boxes? You can also place electrical boxes in backer boxes.

6) Lighting: Appears that you have already framed soffits rather then building soffits inside the DD/GG shell. Will you have recessed lighting? Are you planning to use backer boxes to prevent sound from escaping through the cans? If you built soffits inside the DD/GG shell, no backer boxes would be needed for lighting. If you plan to have electrical boxes for lighting, question 5 is relevant

7) Speakers: Sounds like none of your speakers will create holes in the drywall. If that's not right, do you plan to use backer boxes to minimize sound escape for any inwall / in ceiling speakers?

8) Door: Are you planning to use a single solid core door with door seals to reduce sound escape? Or are you planning to use two doors with an air gap in between? Planning to add mass to the door to further reduce sound leakage?


Those questions may be overwhelming. But, worth figuring out how much of the above you are willing to do. Post the plan here. If you are not committed to doing most of the above, you might as well save your money versus doing pieces that won't help.
 
#7 ·
Thank you guys for the replies. I really appreciate it. Yes I've done my homework and am familiar with just about everything that's been detailed here. So I'll try and answer some of the questions. As far as the hvac supplies, there are two into the room. And an air return will be installed soon. I do not currently have a plan other than insulating them. So I'd love some suggestions regarding the supplies/ return.

I hear you with the DD on the walls so I will make that happen. I will talk to the drywallers regarding the first layer possibly being osb. Cost will be a factor.

Outlets are installed so I will look more into puddy pads. Info on the best place to purchase those would be great.

I made the call to have the soffits done when I had the framers here. There are cans installed already in the soffits. Can I install backer boxes over them? They still need to be moved (lowered) to accommodate for the DD so maybe I could put them in then if its strongly suggested.

Regarding the speakers I will be good unless I decide to install in ceiling instead of trying to mount the larger bookshelf speakers I have for Atmos. Suggestions on backer box 101 would be appreciated.

I do have a solid core door that will be installed with door seals. I do also plan to do some sound panels framed with casing within the room and could do that on the door as well.

While I know how important all of this stuff is, I'm desperately trying to find a happy medium between spending $$$$ for sound proofing, or affordably doing enough not to get the obligatory "turn it down!!" Text from the wifey three floors up :). I'm quite familiar with that one lol. Thank you guys for your help.
 
#8 · (Edited)
You are so far down the path with this project and the people you have hired that I feel bad about telling you all the missed opportunities to build it with soundproofing techniques.

Framing the soffit pre drywall, using new work recessed cans, the outlets, basically you are turning the room into Swiss cheese and you will be getting those text messages. Too bad if this is your forever home and you started with such beautiful raw space.

Let's start with just one small detail. You hooked up the theater with metal duct work which will act like a sound pipe to the rest of the house.

As installed the can lights will never interface properly with clips, channel and two layers of dry wall on the soffits, use remodel cans inside backer boxes.

All the outlets and switch boxes need to be hung in anticipation that the final wall surface will be 2 1/4 inches in front of the stud faces.

Id like to see the overall plan for the theater, screen location and size, seating locations and calculated viewing distances, riser/step locations, speaker locations. Equipment location and access. Projector mounting location.

I think I would have flipped the room and hid the pie shaped bump behind the screen wall. Did that in my Rawlinsway project, backer box details in my Summer Fun project. As is with the soffit you've framed you have decided to hang the screen on the front wall, I wouldn't I'd use a false wall and hide all the speakers and use an acoustically transparent screen. Get the center channel up higher. This would also solve the viewing distance problem you have in your current plan.
 
#9 ·
As far as the raw space, this house is a year old and everything in the basement was done during construction. I have moved the theater location from the original design as this area has the least amount of mechanicals combined with the highest ceiling areas.

I'm aware that the electrical all needs to be moved to accommodate the 2 1/4 inches from studs. As far as the soffits go, I received info from Ted White on how to properly build them the way I did using the clips and channel. So if I can build backer boxes for the 4 can lights I should be ok. There are no lights in the ceiling, only in the soffits.

I just taped the screen on the wall to get a feel for the size. There is going to be a false screen wall just like my last theater, built on a sand filled stage, with GOM fabric.

I don't believe I have a viewing distance problem? I will be about 14 feet from a 133" inch screen with a 4K projector. With the projector mounted just beyond minimum throw. This is perfect based on my homework.

If I were to flip the room, the beam, and ductwork would become an issue. I'd also lose the equipment area that is perfect to build a rack and shelving. Like I did in my last theater (see pic from first post in this thread).

What can I do to help the existing ductwork at this point? Nothing?
 
#10 · (Edited)
many guys replace the metal duct with insulated flex duct. I originally calculated 16 1/2 ft from your diagram as the viewing distance, 14 is better, but I don't see room to do a false wall under the soffit as built.
 
#12 ·
Yes, I had them just continue the soffit all the way around. The plan is to do a radius on the front of the stage, and then I was going to match it, after drywall, on the ceiling. The soffit is not deep enough for where it is for the false wall I agree. I could just take that part of the soffit down I suppose.
 
#11 ·
Thanks Big, I will find out the cost of replacing the runs with flex duct when I get the return done. And I will also check your build regarding the backer boxes. I could still make that happen as the cans need to be moved anyway. Thank you guys.
 
#14 ·
I've read that decoupling the walls greatly reduces the need for specific types of insulation. I have a few quotes one with 3" roxul in theater ceilings, and one with double R-19 batts in the ceilings (2x12 joists), for the same cost. Is one option better than the other?
 
#15 ·
My sound proofing mentor, Ted White at Soundproofingcompany.com says use the cheapest insulation you can find and anything over R19 inches in a cavity has diminishing return. Instead of two layers of R19 I would use one layer of the thicker stuff, less labor to install, you don't need a full 12 inches. Price it out at the store it my be cheaper than two layers of R19.
 
#17 ·
I'm having trouble getting the electricians to understand that I need all the electrical dropped to 2 1/4 inches from studs. I'm getting extremely frustrated. Can you please suggest the best way to fur down the areas I need to get the electrical moved? Thank you.
 
#19 · (Edited)
it's not rocket science, 3/4 to 7/8 inch thick furring, Carlon adjustable depth box and putty pad, Be sure that the furring is at least 1/4 inch less than clip and channel height.

 

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#21 ·
Hi guys, a question about mounting plywood or osb where the projector will be mounted. It is ok to mount it as the first layer attached to the channel in that area correct?

Also I have an Atmos receiver, but I'm considering doing front height speakers instead of messing with the ceiling speakers. Bad idea? Thanks
 
#23 ·
Hi guys, a question about mounting plywood or osb where the projector will be mounted. It is ok to mount it as the first layer attached to the channel in that area correct?

Also I have an Atmos receiver, but I'm considering doing front height speakers instead of messing with the ceiling speakers. Bad idea? Thanks
In my opinion a very bad idea. Correct me if I am wrong but your theater space is not dry walled, right? This is the time to run cable's for Atmos ceiling speakers. 2 pair at a minimum. See the Dolby site for recommended location. Still run your front heights. You will not regret doing this now.

D.
 
#22 ·
I usually throw up a full sheet of 5/8 plywood for the first layer as the first thing to go on the ceiling. Be sure to cut in your outlet and signal source boxes. You can put putty pads on the back. I think the plywood will be 19/32 don't worry about the lost 32nd.
 
#25 ·
What are you referring to by the "signal sources boxes"? Is that where the incoming HDMI, CAT-6 etc will come in? In which case if you are using conduit you would just have your outlet ("inlet" really I suppose?) and conduit? Do the putty pads need to be installed before putting the plywood into the ceiling (if not I can't picture how you'd get your hands behind the 4x8 to do it once its in the ceiling)?
 
#26 · (Edited)
I usually just reach in from the edge, it is never more than two feet, put the plywood up first so you can reach around from both sides. On occasion I've put the putty pads on when the plywood is sitting on the drywall lift and lowered a little bit below the final position.

Yes it can just be the conduit and not a box for the HDMI cable. When I feel ambitious I actually have the conduit come into a double gang electrical box that I've drilled a hole in the back.
 
#27 ·
Question about the backer boxes for the overhead atmos speakers. Do I install them leaving just the 5/8 to be covered by one sheet of drywall? Meaning do I drop them down just below where the channel and first sheet would be or to the channel then covered by the two sheets?
 
#28 · (Edited)
I'd like two sheets under the box, here is how I do it, a nice fat surface to put a thick bead of acoustical caulk on the edge against the drywall.
 

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