Javery's NJ Theater - finally started! - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 697 Old 12-05-2015, 02:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
the vent sizes for the supply and return should be similar. The returns can go in the rear of the room, how you connect them up to the air handler will have to be determined.
OK - so I should order 4 of those vents? 2 for the supply and 2 for the return? If that's the case, I think I have a solution for one of the returns but I'll need to think about how to get the other out of the room.

I'll shoot a 30 second video or something trying to explain what I'm thinking - easier than typing it out.

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post #32 of 697 Old 12-08-2015, 05:56 AM
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Nice to see another North Jersey theater. Maybe we can do a Home Theater Meetup with each other. Mine may be finished in a month or two.
I have an addition with a basement built under it as well which is where the HT build is.
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post #33 of 697 Old 12-20-2015, 02:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice to see another North Jersey theater. Maybe we can do a Home Theater Meetup with each other. Mine may be finished in a month or two.
I have an addition with a basement built under it as well which is where the HT build is.
Yours looks to be coming along nicely. The houses around here are all so old so they come with their fair share of problems which is making it challenging for me to build. Nothing is level! I'm making progress though...
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post #34 of 697 Old 12-20-2015, 04:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Javery's NJ Theater - finally started!

OK... some progress has been made!

I installed the IB-1 clips to the ceiling joists and started installing the hat channel. I am surprised things seem to be lining up so far. The first thing I did was get an 8' long 1x2 and marked it with the spacing I needed for the clips. 8" in from the wall and then spaced every 16" on center. Then I transferred the marks on the 1x2 to the joists instead of having to measure over and over. I am planning on a coffered ceiling in the middle of the room so there will be extra weight up there which is why I went for the narrower spacing (24" on center is the traditional method). This made 12 rows of hat channel spaced 16" apart except for the last row which is only spaced about 8" (and 8" in from the wall) since my room width isn't exactly divisible by 16".

I laid out the marks with the 1x2 on every single joist in every single spot and when I was done I went around the room with a permanent marker putting an "X" where I actually needed a clip (the clips are supposed to be staggered per the soundproofing company). I tried keeping them 48" apart but honestly it was tough - the joists were a bit of a mess and not evenly spaced. There is also an issue in the front corner where there are no joists. I haven't figured out what to do there yet. This took me almost all day!

Now I am installing the hat channel. Got 10' lengths from Home Depot at $4.97 each. I figured I'll need about 300' so I spent over $150 just for the channel (and I still have to go back for more when it comes time to do the entry wall). It is going up pretty quick - the tough part is going to be cutting the hat channel to the right length for certain places. It is also a pain to connect two runs by overlapping 6-8" and fastening with a 5/8" screw. The hat channel is thick enough so the screws won't self drill.

Anyway - here's where I'm at:


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post #35 of 697 Old 12-22-2015, 12:30 PM - Thread Starter
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I placed an order from The Soundproofing Company for 50 more IB-1 clips for the wall between the theater and the rest of the basement. I should be able to get those installed shortly after Christmas along with the hat channel (everything is laid out already). The plumber comes tomorrow to move some gas lines and water lines so I can continue framing out the rest of the basement. Once he's finished I think things will pick up - I feel like I've been waiting around for contractors to show up for the past month...

Quick question(s) - how wide does an equipment closet have to be? Will a standard 30" door be sufficient? Also, does anyone foresee any issues with the equipment rack being on a raised ledge inside of the closet? As you may recall if you read the rest of this thread, I had a portion of my basement excavated to give me an 8' ceiling height underneath the old section of my house but around the perimeter of that section of the basement the ceiling is still around 6', which creates a ledge when standing in the deeper area.

I am planning on framing a wall in front of the ledge and leaving an opening for a six panel closet door that will house the equipment rack. Kind of like this:



Any issues?
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post #36 of 697 Old 12-23-2015, 11:56 AM - Thread Starter
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OK - here's a shot of that unfinished wall where the future equipment rack will go. I need to leave room between the HVAC unit and the closet so I can perform maintenance on the HVAC unit (2'?). Anyway - Will I be OK putting the equipment closet here?

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post #37 of 697 Old 12-23-2015, 12:00 PM
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I have my rack probably a little closer then that to the furnace. It's on wheels so I can scoot it away if the furnace ever needs work but being that close hasn't bothered anything in the rack yet.


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post #38 of 697 Old 12-25-2015, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I have my rack probably a little closer then that to the furnace. It's on wheels so I can scoot it away if the furnace ever needs work but being that close hasn't bothered anything in the rack yet.
That is good to know - definitely something to keep in mind. I don't think I'd be able to scoot the rack away if I make the closet any closer though unless the rack is just sitting behind the door and not in an enclosed closet. I'll have to think about it because I'd really like that door to be as far left as possible.
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post #39 of 697 Old 12-29-2015, 10:24 AM - Thread Starter
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So how do you guys cut the 25 gauge hat channel? Hack saw? Metal snips (seems too thick)?

Anyone have any other thoughts on the equipment closet location?
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post #40 of 697 Old 12-29-2015, 10:52 AM
 
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Snips if you have a good pair. Hack saw seems slower. Perhaps a metal blade on chop saw or sawzall might work... aka motorized hacksaw.
Good snips is probably your best bet.
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post #41 of 697 Old 12-29-2015, 11:36 AM
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post #42 of 697 Old 01-04-2016, 09:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys - I picked up the snips Big posted. So far so good. I have all of the clips up on the side wall as well as the ceiling. I plan on finishing up with the hat channel after work this week.

Stupid question but how tight am I supposed to be screwing in the IB-1 clips? Until they are difficult to twist (depressing the metal slightly around the screw) or just enough to hold it in place? I've been leaning towards the tighter the better because I worry about them coming loose over time or at least coming loose enough to eventually rattle somehow but maybe I'm overthinking it.
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post #43 of 697 Old 01-04-2016, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javeryh View Post
Thanks guys - I picked up the snips Big posted. So far so good. I have all of the clips up on the side wall as well as the ceiling. I plan on finishing up with the hat channel after work this week.

Stupid question but how tight am I supposed to be screwing in the IB-1 clips? Until they are difficult to twist (depressing the metal slightly around the screw) or just enough to hold it in place? I've been leaning towards the tighter the better because I worry about them coming loose over time or at least coming loose enough to eventually rattle somehow but maybe I'm overthinking it.
I am up in north jersey and started finished and rebuilt my theater about 4 times. Let me know if you need a hand with anything. I am good with acoustical treatments and sound treatment.
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post #44 of 697 Old 01-04-2016, 09:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JC1179 View Post
I am up in north jersey and started finished and rebuilt my theater about 4 times. Let me know if you need a hand with anything. I am good with acoustical treatments and sound treatment.

Thanks - I'll definitely need some help in that area when the time comes. Glad to see some other people from NJ around here!
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post #45 of 697 Old 01-04-2016, 09:26 AM
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Thanks - I'll definitely need some help in that area when the time comes. Glad to see some other people from NJ around here!
Actually bigmouth was quite a bit of help. like everything else in life I tend to go overboard and replaced my triad w svssb13s to custom speakers and amps. then custom automation and distro system. its a sickness. this is a new handle because I haven't posted in a while and forgot my old one.
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post #46 of 697 Old 01-06-2016, 09:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Got some more work done last night. The clips on the wall separating the theater from the rest of the basement are (mostly) in place. I'm running low again - I keep finding additional spots where I need to install them in order to make things secure. I started snapping in the hat channel but then it occurred to me that I will need to insulate the wall first as well as drill a hole in the cinder block / poured concrete wall for HVAC to get inside of the room - that is going to be a pain.

The HVAC unit is directly behind the brownish wall - I talked to my HVAC guy and he said the best way to get air in and out of the room is to drill two 7"x7" holes (or, more likely, one 7"x14" hole) near the top of the wall for a supply and return (there is another point of entry for the second supply above the door to the theater). I will be able to get the ducts from the HVAC unit behind the wall directly into the future soffit (and then wrap it around the room so the vents are on the bottom of the soffit on the opposite wall).

Here is a top-down view of what I'm thinking. The supply and return would come through the cinderblock wall to vents that are on the same side of the room in the soffit. I will have to run flex duct off of "Supply #2" to the other side of the room in the soffit. The pics show the wall and the red outline shows where I'm thinking about drilling the holes. I should note that I cannot come up over the wall in between the joists - there are already 2 ducts coming into the theater room that feed the first floor of my house.

Thoughts? I'm looking for some advice here or someone to tell me I'm on the right track (or I'm crazy). Any help would be great.





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post #47 of 697 Old 01-07-2016, 04:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Anyone have any thoughts on my HVAC plan? After I drill the hole and have the HVAC guy run the ducts to the room how would you seal the gap between the duct and the newly created hole? Some sort of caulk/silicon?

Also, can 2 returns be joined at a "Y" in the soffit to be directed by one duct out of the room? I only have 3 ducts going in/out of the theater - 2 supplies and 1 return. Would that work?
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post #48 of 697 Old 01-08-2016, 10:44 AM
 
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You do not want to hear that HVAC during a movie.
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post #49 of 697 Old 01-08-2016, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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You do not want to hear that HVAC during a movie.
I agree! Am I on the right path? The HVAC will be fed into a soffit running around the entire room. There will be 4 long vents (36"-48") on the bottom of the soffit with 2 for supply and 2 for return to allow for adequate air flow. I will use flex duct in the soffit and fill the rest with pink insulation and cover with 2 layers of drywall. There will be cans on the underside of the soffit too for lighting so some electrical wires will be run prior to sealing up the soffit. Current issues are:

1. How to drill the hole through the concrete/cinder block shown in the picture above (and then seal it up) for 2 of the ducts (1 supply and 1 return) to reach the HVAC unit.

2. Can I only run 1 return back to the HVAC unit? Meaning, can I make a "Y" out of the ducts coming from the 2 returns?

I just want to make sure I have a solid plan before going at it with the power tools. Thanks in advance.
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post #50 of 697 Old 01-08-2016, 01:56 PM
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is the cinder block wall weight bearing? that takes some thought.

If not and it is cinder block (Hollow) you drill a series of holes along a line defining the circle you want with a hammer drill and masonry bit and then attack it with a beefy demo hammer drill (small jack hammer) and chisel bit that you rent. Repeat on the other side.
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post #51 of 697 Old 01-08-2016, 04:35 PM - Thread Starter
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is the cinder block wall weight bearing? that takes some thought.

If not and it is cinder block (Hollow) you drill a series of holes along a line defining the circle you want with a hammer drill and masonry bit and then attack it with a beefy demo hammer drill (small jack hammer) and chisel bit that you rent. Repeat on the other side.
I think it is a load bearing wall but it is supported by a steel beam at the top - it is where the old part of my house meets the new addition. Seems like I'd be able to poke a hole through without worrying about support. The wall appears to be made of poured concrete and not cinder block for whatever that's worth. I took a quick video of the area that might help:

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post #52 of 697 Old 01-08-2016, 05:57 PM
 
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I just smashed through some cinderblock, I'll post some pics. BigmouthinDc is on the right path.

I used a hammer drill them a sledge hammer. Only two tools you need.
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post #53 of 697 Old 01-09-2016, 06:25 AM
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we had to go thru some cinder block as well, but we were pressed for time, so just went with dynamite.
Boy were those bank guards surprised in the morning.
Anyway, you can either expect a bunch new posts from me on all my new home theater gear, OR
how hard it is to hang a pj in an 8x5 cell.
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post #54 of 697 Old 02-21-2016, 06:35 AM - Thread Starter
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So the theater has been on a bit of a hold so I can finish the new laundry room in the basement. Yesterday I leveled the floor with Quiklevel RS and it worked (mostly) great. I had a 1.75" slope in the floor in 2 directions (across only a 7' and 12' run) and was able to get it pretty much dead level in 2 pours. 13 bags at $33 per bag. Ouch. Anyway, the room is framed and today I am running all of the wires for the outlets/lights, etc. and I could use some help.

Below is the layout of the room and where I'm planning to put everything. There is already a line running from the panel to an outlet in the ceiling for my washer and dryer that I will be moving to the wall. Can I run everything off of this line (one circuit)? How should the wiring go? Start at the panel and just go from one to the next? What about the switch?

Any help would be appreciated (including a lighting layout). For scale the room is only 12' x 7' and I have to put the washer and dryer and sink in the locations noted.
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post #55 of 697 Old 03-01-2016, 08:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Javery's NJ Theater - finally started!

I figured out the electrical I the laundry room. I ended up following my initial plan almost exactly but added a third overhead light. The bad news is that we had a big storm last week and for the first time ever we got water in the basement right where I'm building the laundry room. This area had not been treated for water like the rest of the basement.

Unfortunately, I had to hire someone to come in and install a French drain and a second sump pump. To do this they had to rip out the bottom of two of my laundry room stud walls in order to dig the trench - sucks. Although the bright side is that if the storm happened 1 week later I might never have noticed because I was planning to install the drywall in there last weekend.

Anyway, it has been take care of but it is another setback - at the rate I'm going I'll be lucky to finish by the end of the year! I've included a video showing the work they did - came out nice.


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post #56 of 697 Old 03-14-2016, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
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OK - I'm back on track. I had the water problem in the laundry area taken care of. They dug a trench on 2 sides of the basement (inside) and filled with a pipe, gravel and a water barrier and run everything through a second sump pump. It came out great even though they had to rip out 2 of my walls.

Over the last 2 weeks I managed to finish the framing, reroute the HVAC duct in the wall and complete all of the insulation. So I am almost ready to drywall the laundry room - this is a big step for me!

Anyway, I have a question on the HVAC duct. Can I just have a 4" elbow open up into the room? The plan is to screw the duct to a cross stud so it won't move, insulate around the duct and then cut a round hole in the drywall covering it with a square grate or something for finishing. Will that work?

Thanks!
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post #57 of 697 Old 03-14-2016, 01:23 PM
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What you need to use is a register boot like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/SPEEDI-BO...4-NB/202541941
Or equivalent. Will allow you to attach a rectangular register cover after drywall
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post #58 of 697 Old 03-15-2016, 11:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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What you need to use is a register boot like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/SPEEDI-BO...4-NB/202541941
Or equivalent. Will allow you to attach a rectangular register cover after drywall
Thanks. I ordered one. For $12.50 it seems like a good solution. I just hope it isn't that deep - I don't have much room behind the 2x4 stud wall.
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post #59 of 697 Old 03-15-2016, 11:41 AM - Thread Starter
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So another small question just popped up about drywall. Is there a preferable pattern to use on the ceiling? The room I'm finishing now is 7' x 12' (approximately) so I have 2 options on the layout as shown in my super high quality drawing. I was just going to do the first layout but after giving it some thought I was wondering if there would be an issue with a seam running across the entire length of the ceiling.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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post #60 of 697 Old 03-16-2016, 08:11 PM
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As long as you mud&tape the seams well, I think the 1st(top) layout will be fine.

But what I really want to say it that I LOVE the vids you add as visual aids for when your trying to make a point or highlight a specific area your talking about. That is SUPER handy for massively lowering the room left for misunderstandings and really makes it much, MUCH easier to participate. Little 10-20 sec vids should REALLY become the standard on avs as opposed to simple pics, considering how easy it is to take them and how many phones can do it these days.

Seriously, if you lined up 100 random people on the street, I bet AT LEAST 80-85 of them would be taking vid of you doing it for their lawyer
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