Javery's NJ Theater - finally started! - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 697 Old 03-17-2016, 06:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by domz777 View Post
As long as you mud&tape the seams well, I think the 1st(top) layout will be fine.

But what I really want to say it that I LOVE the vids you add as visual aids for when your trying to make a point or highlight a specific area your talking about. That is SUPER handy for massively lowering the room left for misunderstandings and really makes it much, MUCH easier to participate. Little 10-20 sec vids should REALLY become the standard on avs as opposed to simple pics, considering how easy it is to take them and how many phones can do it these days.

Seriously, if you lined up 100 random people on the street, I bet AT LEAST 80-85 of them would be taking vid of you doing it for their lawyer
Thanks. I also like *short* videos in order to understand something better. There is one floating around where BIG puts a riser together and slides it in place using a pipe as a roller and it is immensely helpful. Too bad I stink at making them! Once I get into the theater area for construction I'll be posting vids like crazy - it also beats typing a wall of text that no one wants to read. Anything under a minute I think is OK but 30 seconds is ideal - just enough to highlight the area and get your point/question across.
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post #62 of 697 Old 03-27-2016, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey guys - another quick question about installing drywall around my gas line and dryer vent. The video shows exactly what I'm having trouble with. Mudders are coming tomorrow so I need to figure this out! Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

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post #63 of 697 Old 03-27-2016, 08:45 AM
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push the flex in the wall, add drywall cut hole and reach in and grab flex and pull out, cut off excess and attach to the back of your plastic collar finish ring. Attach collar to the wall. For what is is worth flex duct inside walls is not recommended for dryer ducting, you should have use rigid metal that can stand up to the rigors of being cleaned out on a regular basis. Flex is what connects the dryer to what sticks out the wall.

I'm sure many guys will say they've had flex for years without problems, If you want the best answer talk to a veteran fireman.

see item #3 here:
http://www.dryerbox.com/dryer_venting_guide.htm
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post #64 of 697 Old 03-27-2016, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
push the flex in the wall, add drywall cut hole and reach in and grab flex and pull out, cut off excess and attach to the back of your plastic collar finish ring. Attach collar to the wall. For what is is worth flex duct inside walls is not recommended for dryer ducting, you should have use rigid metal that can stand up to the rigors of being cleaned out on a regular basis. Flex is what connects the dryer to what sticks out the wall.

I'm sure many guys will say they've had flex for years without problems, If you want the best answer talk to a veteran fireman.

see item #3 here:
http://www.dryerbox.com/dryer_venting_guide.htm
Absolutely. Dryer duct is not something to take lightly. My grandfather was a firefighter for a long time and then went on to be an arson investigator for Aetna insurance. He warned my family and I many times that one of, if not the most, leading cause of residential house fires are clothes dryer related.
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post #65 of 697 Old 03-27-2016, 09:17 AM
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we never leave the house with the dryer running
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post #66 of 697 Old 03-27-2016, 05:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks BIG. It was way easier than I thought it would be - there was plenty of room to pull the 90 degree 4" aluminum through the hole I cut in the drywall panel, fasten the plastic collar and put it back in place. For what it's worth, I have a semi-rigid aluminum tube inside the wall (it's pretty rigid actually) and not that flimsy plastic tube shown in my last post (that was just temporary for the dryer until I figured this out). I went nuts with the aluminum tape so I'm not worried about it coming loose.

The mudders are coming in the morning so by tomorrow night there will be a semi-finished room with a coat of primer. Pretty exciting - once I finish in here it's theater time - this room was my practice run and so far it's not too bad. I did everything myself, including the electrical and rerouting the HVAC (no plumbing though) so I think I'm ready to tackle the important room. Here's where I'm at:

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post #67 of 697 Old 03-30-2016, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Well... I'm not too happy with the tape/spackle job. The guy didn't even use metal corners on the soffit so the lines aren't crisp and there are pock marks all over the entire room when you get up close. Pretty disappointing but it's probably time to turn my attention to finishing the rest of the basement. Actually making some progress on the theater will be fun at least.

I called around to a lot of places to try and find a good drywall tape guy but most contractors told me it wasn't worth their time unless they were also hanging the drywall. Prices ranged from $35/sheet to $42/sheet. That would get really expensive really fast. Also, not a single one had ever worked on a theater before and basically went cross-eyed when I started showing them the clips and channel and trying to explain how to hang the drywall in that room.

Anyone got any suggestions on how to proceed? I really don't think I'm going to be able to tape and mud myself and have it come out the way I envision and paying someone to hang the drywall seems like a waste of money.

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post #68 of 697 Old 03-30-2016, 02:59 PM
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Check your local Craigs list for an independent drywall guy. The phrase to look for in his ad is "No job too small", he will probably do just the finish and not care that he didn't get the full job, obviously check references. Some theater projects cover the entire wall with treatments/fabric so there is no need for a good looking finish. Something you could slap up. If you do crown you can just caulk the inside corner at the ceiling or use it to gain some experience in taping and mudding inside corners without concern for the oops.

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post #69 of 697 Old 06-07-2016, 01:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright... after a couple months off I'm getting ready to get back to my build. Life always seems to get in the way. I recently switched jobs and my son is playing in 2 baseball leagues which basically kills the weekends but things are starting to slow down since the end of the school year is near (only 1 summer league). The games are awesome - he's only 8 and small for his age but he has real good eye/hand coordination and is more athletic than I ever was at that age. Last game he went 1-1 with an RBI and made a catch in center field, which is rare in this league. We are both having a lot of fun but we both agree it is time to get serious about finishing the basement!

I am about ready to place an order for "Coretec Plus" brand flooring for outside of the theater and the laundry room. Is it a waterproof flooring system that floats on top of the concrete - you don't even need a vapor barrier and it is supposed to hide any imperfections in the concrete slab. I am probably going to go with a darker color (Deep Smoked Oak) even though I also really like the lighter one (Dakota Walnut). I attached pics of both. I think the darker floor will look a little nicer once I paint, etc.

I have also decided to bite the bullet and hire a contractor to help me finish everything except the theater (which I still plan on doing myself). He is coming out this week to give me a quote - there's honestly not that much left to do that I could do on my own but I know that it will take me until Christmas doing it myself an hour at a time. He's going to basically finish the lobby, laundry room and stairs/hallway and get everything ready for paint (which I will do). I am installing a kitchenette and that involves plumbing so I have to hire someone anyway. The room is 90% framed otherwise.
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post #70 of 697 Old 09-15-2016, 01:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Slow progress... I know. Things will be picking up quickly now that I have officially hired a contractor to finish the rest of the basement and get the theater to a drywalled state. He will be taking direction from me (but this assumes I know what i'm doing, which I don't!).

First up - I will be hanging drywall in the theater room very soon. I have installed the clips and channel on the ceiling and one interior wall. The other 3 walls are all exterior so no clips (they are decoupled from the ceiling joists). I am hanging 1 layer of 5/8" OSB + GG + 5/8" drywall on the ceiling and DD+GG on the 4 walls. What wires do I need to make sure are run in the walls before sealing everything up?

Speakers:
- Surround x4
- R/L/C up front behind screen wall
- 2 subwoofers up front behind screen wall
- 4 in-ceiling speakers for Atmos?

Electrical
- outlet in ceiling for projector
- outlets around room to code (trying to hide these in columns)
- outlets x2 on face of riser for front row seats
- outlets on riser floor for back row seats
- outlets behind screen for subwoofers
- switch on wall (Grafik Eye?)
- lights in soffit
- sconces on columns x5
- tray light for around soffit
- lights for steps to riser
- screen lights x3 for above screen

HVAC:
- 2 supply vents
- 1 return vent

Other:
- HDMI conduit to projector
  1. Am I missing anything obvious?
  2. What do you do about poking holes in the sheetrock/soundproofing? Electrical boxes make sense with the putty pads but what about speaker wire?
  3. Speaking of... I am supplying the speaker wire - any recommendations on what to buy and where to buy it (and how much to get)?

Any feedback would be great. Thanks.

Last edited by javeryh; 09-16-2016 at 11:03 AM.
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post #71 of 697 Old 09-23-2016, 01:52 PM
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In my theater, my columns were spaced such that if I put electric inside the columns, I met the 'code' requirements for spacing. So, similar to my speaker wire, I drilled a small hole in my OSB/Drywall & pulled electric & speaker wire through it... then put some acoustic caulk around the hole to seal it. I then 'surface mounted' my electric boxes directly over where the wire came through the wall, so, there is no exposed wire on the wall itself. Then I made my columns where you can remove the panels to access the electric.
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post #72 of 697 Old 10-10-2016, 12:21 PM - Thread Starter
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In my theater, my columns were spaced such that if I put electric inside the columns, I met the 'code' requirements for spacing. So, similar to my speaker wire, I drilled a small hole in my OSB/Drywall & pulled electric & speaker wire through it... then put some acoustic caulk around the hole to seal it. I then 'surface mounted' my electric boxes directly over where the wire came through the wall, so, there is no exposed wire on the wall itself. Then I made my columns where you can remove the panels to access the electric.
Thanks - this is exactly what I'm going to do. Surface mount all electrical outlets and hide them in the columns. That should work great and if I need to extend the outlet to the side of the column that should be easy enough as well.

Alright.... some progress! This past weekend I had some ducts moved and installed in the lobby outside of the theater for heating and cooling (you can see how the ducts used to be in the picture below the video). There are now 2 vents in the room (which also has to heat/cool the hallway and stair area). I think overall this is going to work much better - the soffit that will eventually be framed around the ducts can now be uniform instead of trying to box out the ducts that used to be at the top of the wall. I also had all ducts in the theater room that currently feed the first floor of the house converted to insulated flex duct to hopefully help out with soundproofing.


See the ugly duct running under the return? Ugh. so glad it is gone!



Next up is some plumbing around the concrete ledge so that we can frame around the (only) window. We are going to drop the pipe down a few feet so it doesn't block the window. Not sure when this is happening but probably some time this week. Things should start moving quickly from here on out!

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post #73 of 697 Old 10-10-2016, 02:22 PM
 
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Looking good.
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post #74 of 697 Old 10-19-2016, 12:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Looking good.
Thanks!

Well, today is the day. The contractors showed up this morning for the first day of finishing what I couldn't in the basement and theater so I'll be providing regular updates from here on out. I have also almost figured out my speaker choices and would love to hear some opinions on which speakers to get for the surrounds. I'm not an audiophile and in fact I have been living with a sound bar for the TV (and no sub) for years now so just about anything will sound good to me in the theater. Here's the list:

  • Three (3) Elusive 1099s for LCR behind a Falcon AT screen
  • Four (4) RSL C34Es in the ceiling for Atmos
  • Two (2) Hsu VTF-15s for the subs (behind the screen)
  • Four (4) Volts from diysoundgroup for the surrounds hidden in columns - not sure whether to go with the Volt 6s, Volt 8s or Volt 10s - any thoughts?

I'll take some pics of the progress when I get home (just framing today, I think).
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post #75 of 697 Old 10-20-2016, 03:54 AM
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I am a bit surprised with your other DIY speakers, you would go with commercial subs.

DIYSOundGroup has some Stonehenge cabinets for DIY 18" drivers... you could get a couple nice 18" drivers, iNuke 6000s, and the pre-packs for equal to or less than the two HSU's. If they are behind the screen wall, you don't even need to worry about the effort to finish them.

I went with UXL-18s, and love them... but have seen lots of people like the Stereo Integrity two lines (one cheaper, one a bit more), or some of the Parts Expresss Dayton Audio UM-18 drivers, etc. Lots of options, which I am under the impression all have greater capability than the HSUs.

I have also read good things about the HSUs too (they were my original plan, before opting for DIY)... so, not saying they are a bad option, but if you are open to DIY... I would consider it for the subs too.
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post #76 of 697 Old 10-20-2016, 05:03 AM
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I am a bit surprised with your other DIY speakers, you would go with commercial subs.

DIYSOundGroup has some Stonehenge cabinets for DIY 18" drivers... you could get a couple nice 18" drivers, iNuke 6000s, and the pre-packs for equal to or less than the two HSU's. If they are behind the screen wall, you don't even need to worry about the effort to finish them.

I went with UXL-18s, and love them... but have seen lots of people like the Stereo Integrity two lines (one cheaper, one a bit more), or some of the Parts Expresss Dayton Audio UM-18 drivers, etc. Lots of options, which I am under the impression all have greater capability than the HSUs.

I have also read good things about the HSUs too (they were my original plan, before opting for DIY)... so, not saying they are a bad option, but if you are open to DIY... I would consider it for the subs too.
Totally agree. My 11 year old son could have put together the Marty cube flatpack I bought. Much easier than the speaker (no crossovers) so take a look. Unfortunately, the Stonehenges have been out of stock for quite some time and don't know if they're ever coming back, but there are other great ported and sealed options.
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post #77 of 697 Old 10-20-2016, 06:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
I am a bit surprised with your other DIY speakers, you would go with commercial subs.

DIYSOundGroup has some Stonehenge cabinets for DIY 18" drivers... you could get a couple nice 18" drivers, iNuke 6000s, and the pre-packs for equal to or less than the two HSU's. If they are behind the screen wall, you don't even need to worry about the effort to finish them.

I went with UXL-18s, and love them... but have seen lots of people like the Stereo Integrity two lines (one cheaper, one a bit more), or some of the Parts Expresss Dayton Audio UM-18 drivers, etc. Lots of options, which I am under the impression all have greater capability than the HSUs.

I have also read good things about the HSUs too (they were my original plan, before opting for DIY)... so, not saying they are a bad option, but if you are open to DIY... I would consider it for the subs too.
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Totally agree. My 11 year old son could have put together the Marty cube flatpack I bought. Much easier than the speaker (no crossovers) so take a look. Unfortunately, the Stonehenges have been out of stock for quite some time and don't know if they're ever coming back, but there are other great ported and sealed options.
Thanks guys - this is really good to hear. I'm all about better sound for less money! I have never built a speaker of any kind before so I'm a little nervous about it. I was looking at the Volts and it didn't look that bad. I just thought the subs would be beyond my ability - I'm good with tools/woodworking but bad (or inexperienced) with electronics (I've never soldered). If this is something that is easy to do then I will - I think it would be fun to learn.

Also, Fazzz, if I'm having trouble maybe I can just hire your son!
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post #78 of 697 Old 10-20-2016, 07:01 AM - Thread Starter
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OK, here is the update after Day 1. They did more in 1 day with a 4 person crew than I could have finished on my own in a month working weekends only. They also did a nice job so we are off to a good start.

They framed the equipment closet, mostly finished installing the metal channel on the ceiling and one wall in the theater (there are some spots that will need to be addressed before drywall but I can see why they skipped them for now), reinforced/fixed other areas of framing that I didn't finish or do a great job on the first time around, tore open the laundry room drywall and installed a rigid metal exhaust duct for my dryer and installed fire stopping everywhere under the joists around the entire basement (required by code).

Here is the walkthrough of the laundry room (super exciting!) and the rest of the basement:



Let me know if you see anything I'm screwing up!
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post #79 of 697 Old 10-20-2016, 07:21 AM
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Thanks guys - this is really good to hear. I'm all about better sound for less money! I have never built a speaker of any kind before so I'm a little nervous about it. I was looking at the Volts and it didn't look that bad. I just thought the subs would be beyond my ability - I'm good with tools/woodworking but bad (or inexperienced) with electronics (I've never soldered). If this is something that is easy to do then I will - I think it would be fun to learn.

Also, Fazzz, if I'm having trouble maybe I can just hire your son!
I was in the same boat as you when I started. I had never built a sub before let alone a speaker or done anything beyond whittling sticks with a pocket knife for the most part. I just planned on purchasing my speakers, just like you, until I came here and started reading about all the speaker builds. Since I love a good value I tried building some myself and it really wasn't that bad. Would I feel comfortable designing my own cabinets, cutting my own boards, etc. - absolutely not. But the DIY Soundgroup flat packs alleviate that need. My Fusion 8 build thread is in my signature and I have a few pics of my sub in my room thread and the Marty sub FAQ thread.
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post #80 of 697 Old 10-20-2016, 07:38 AM
 
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Thanks guys - this is really good to hear. I'm all about better sound for less money! I have never built a speaker of any kind before so I'm a little nervous about it. I was looking at the Volts and it didn't look that bad. I just thought the subs would be beyond my ability - I'm good with tools/woodworking but bad (or inexperienced) with electronics (I've never soldered). If this is something that is easy to do then I will - I think it would be fun to learn.

Also, Fazzz, if I'm having trouble maybe I can just hire your son!
DIY can be really fun if you enjoy it. It's easy to learn but it does take patience and experience, My skills today are a lot better than when I started so I'm willing to do my own designs, built without flatpacks, solder xo and etc...

If you are new to it it's nice to start out with a kit, it comes with instructions, pre cut wood, even pre built crossover if you want. It cuts the learnin curve down and keeps it easy, you'll learn a bunch and be ready for more.
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post #81 of 697 Old 10-21-2016, 02:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright - Day 2 and Day 3 updates... they did nothing! The plumber was supposed to come out yesterday and he canceled and they can't finish framing until some pipes are moved. I can't help but think there is something that they could have done but the plumber is now scheduled for Tuesday. This is like a week delay right out of the gate. Grrr...
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post #82 of 697 Old 10-24-2016, 12:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Today we were able to "fix" the sump pump in the corner of the theater room. This will eventually be hidden in the back left corner of the riser (if you are facing the screen) with a trap door in the floor for access. It has a water back up system and my waterproofer says that a battery back-up is not necessary. Either way, we are adding a whole-house generator in case of a power outage so I don't think it matters.

They did a very nice job getting the entire pump below grade including all of the pipes. This corner will now be a non-issue... I hope!
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post #83 of 697 Old 10-25-2016, 11:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Contractors are back at it today. Framing should be finished by the time I get home from work. Plumbing was also finished today - there were a few pipes to move that were blocking a window. Electric rough-in will be finished tomorrow and then we will be ready for inspections before insulation. I'll post a few pics or a quick video tonight when I get home.

I also received my C34E speakers today for in-ceiling Atmos. I ordered 4 of them. The contractor will be building backer boxes for them at some point this week as well. I assume I mount the boxes in the ceiling and then drill a hole for the speaker wire to get into the box (and then caulk the hole). Once the drywall ceiling is hung, I then cut a circle in the drywall centered on the backer box (not sure how to locate that but I guess my contractor will have to figure that out) and install the speaker in the cutout. The backer box will be installed to rest on the drywall, which we will caulk once the hole is cut. Then we connect the speaker wire to the speaker and we are good to go.

I can't believe how fast everything is moving.
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post #84 of 697 Old 10-26-2016, 06:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Alright... here's a quick video showing yesterday's progress. I've got some photos to upload as well I know this stuff isn't exciting but maybe it will help someone figure something out one of these days.

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post #85 of 697 Old 10-26-2016, 09:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Holy crap I just bought 3 Elusive 1099s, 3 flat packs and 3 sets of binding posts. No turning back now.
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post #86 of 697 Old 10-26-2016, 10:26 AM
 
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Originally Posted by javeryh View Post
Holy crap I just bought 3 Elusive 1099s, 3 flat packs and 3 sets of binding posts. No turning back now.
boy are you in for a treat...in both building the 1099's AND their performance...if you need any help dont hesitate to ask!
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post #87 of 697 Old 10-26-2016, 11:44 AM - Thread Starter
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boy are you in for a treat...in both building the 1099's AND their performance...if you need any help dont hesitate to ask!
Thanks - I'm definitely going to take you up on that! I can build the boxes easily but I am not so sure about soldering or anything else. I'm getting excited to hear these things. Of course, I don't even own a receiver (or any other equipment) to test whether or not they work. I'll be asking for recommendations on that when the time comes too. I'm really flying blind...

I also got a shipment yesterday. Check out the pic!
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post #88 of 697 Old 10-26-2016, 10:22 PM
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boy are you in for a treat...in both building the 1099's AND their performance...if you need any help dont hesitate to ask!
Very nice. Glad you took the plunge. There's a lot of help on the DIY speaker forum so definitely check that out. The crossovers were a little bit of a challenge for me (and the 1099 crossovers a much tougher than the Fusion 8s I built) as I really hadn't soldered or done anything like that either, but I eventually got it. My biggest suggestion is to not cheaper out on a soldering iron like I did. I had to redo the solder point on all my boards. If you're that worried you can either buy a pre-made board from Matt Grant (mtg90) so all you need to do is hook up the wires and solder. Or you can actually buy a finished crossover from Matt. You send him all the components that come in the kit and he builds everything for you and sends it back. I went with just a board from him and the pricing was very reasonable and definitely worth it. He emailed a picture of the boards showing exactly how to hook everything up so it was pretty simple. You will definitely not regret building your own.
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post #89 of 697 Old 10-27-2016, 04:42 AM
 
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i had never soldered before either....and I didnt even buy the board from matt....it was definitely the most fun of the entire build.

warning: I have a very good knack of looking at a diagram and being able to copy it exactly...so maybe thats why I found it easy and enjoyable/....idk ymmv

good luck
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post #90 of 697 Old 10-27-2016, 09:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Very nice. Glad you took the plunge. There's a lot of help on the DIY speaker forum so definitely check that out. The crossovers were a little bit of a challenge for me (and the 1099 crossovers a much tougher than the Fusion 8s I built) as I really hadn't soldered or done anything like that either, but I eventually got it. My biggest suggestion is to not cheaper out on a soldering iron like I did. I had to redo the solder point on all my boards. If you're that worried you can either buy a pre-made board from Matt Grant (mtg90) so all you need to do is hook up the wires and solder. Or you can actually buy a finished crossover from Matt. You send him all the components that come in the kit and he builds everything for you and sends it back. I went with just a board from him and the pricing was very reasonable and definitely worth it. He emailed a picture of the boards showing exactly how to hook everything up so it was pretty simple. You will definitely not regret building your own.
Thanks - I may reach out to Matt depending on the level of freaking out I do once I see all the parts. I don't have a soldering iron yet so I need to look into that as well. If they arrive before the weekend I'll have a fun project on my hands.

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Originally Posted by Brian Fineberg View Post
i had never soldered before either....and I didnt even buy the board from matt....it was definitely the most fun of the entire build.

warning: I have a very good knack of looking at a diagram and being able to copy it exactly...so maybe thats why I found it easy and enjoyable/....idk ymmv

good luck
That is good - seems like it is not that hard from what everyone has been saying. I can follow directions and I'm pretty anal so I'll be trying to make solid connections with the soldering iron.

I'll be posting build pics and asking a ton of questions...
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