(unnamed build) planning stages of Attic HT - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 58 Old 12-12-2015, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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(unnamed build) planning stages of Attic HT

Hi,
I am new to posting on these forums but spent countless hours looking at other peoples awesome builds/ researching how to progress.

I have a walkup attic with half finished and left the other half unfinished with no window with hopes to turning it into a dedicated HT.

Room Size: (rough estimate since the knee-walls are not up yet)
20x18x8 with an additional 3.5'x4' cavity in the back right
kneewall height ~4'

My goal is 120" screen with two levels of seating (back on risers) 3 backs and love seat or 2 fronts mock photo without any riser. 7.1 sound system (atmos prob out of price range)

budget is 6k roughly

Sound proofing ideas currently:
Serenity mat with 2 layers osb with GG on floor
kneewalls will be built on the new layer not existing subfloor to help decouple
clips and channel with DD and GG everywhere else

Sound treatments:
looking at DIY isolation panels

Questions:
is the room big enough for two rows of seating?
Screen size might be to big for front row?
speaker placement inwall or attached? (dang angled ceiling)
general thought on plan and ideas?

looked at pinks theater and other attic builds but they are had to find.
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post #2 of 58 Old 12-14-2015, 01:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Looks like for two rows I would need 108in screen roughly.
First row ~11' second ~16'
5' for length of the full recline of the theater seat (based on 4seating cheaper chairs)
That bring me closer to recommended THX view distance for first row

Am I calculating the distances right from the screen can someone help?

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post #3 of 58 Old 12-14-2015, 05:16 AM
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How far do your feet hang over the end of those 5 ft chairs? I always plan 6 1/2 ft of space for reclining seating. Screen seems small.

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post #4 of 58 Old 12-14-2015, 05:29 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm short 5'6" and wife is 5'4". With 6 1/2 feet on the riser that would shrink the distance to 10ft from screen on the front row.
120in diag 16:9 seems a little close at 10ft.
Granted if I could create a masking system possibly with magnets to adjust screen size smaller or to a movie aspect ratio when some one would occupy the front row.
I will spend some time today sitting 10-11ft from the screen to see how it is.

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post #5 of 58 Old 12-14-2015, 06:06 AM
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If you end up building the riser too small you can just pull the front row forward on the occasions you have guests.
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post #6 of 58 Old 12-14-2015, 06:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the photo definitely put it in perspective. I like the idea of moving the front row up when needed.
Would adding insulation to the ceiling below the area help improve the sound proofing? Well enhance it enough for the effort of cutting the sub flood slight to put the insulation in?

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post #7 of 58 Old 12-14-2015, 07:02 AM
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the biggest challenge in containing theater sound is the sub-woofer rumble. Insulation is ineffective at those frequencies, If you are going to attack the floor you can put down a 1/2 inch rubber mat, then float a new subfloor over the rubber, the subfloor would be two layers of 1/2 inch OSB with Green Glue between layers. Doing just the floor is a partial solution as there will still be flanking pathways down the walls. If you live near a Tractor Supply store, horse stall mats are a budget rubber source. Floating a subfloor means no mechanical fasteners connecting the floor through the rubber to the floor below.
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post #8 of 58 Old 12-14-2015, 07:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Awesome, I was looking at the serenity mat but if I can get the same performance out of that I will grab it instead. I live in NH luckily got some around me so I will check em out.
I plan on clip channel and double drywall the room and build the kneewalls off of the decoupled floor.
Thank you for all your help!

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post #9 of 58 Old 12-14-2015, 07:23 AM
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serenity mat is good and I have used it, but there are cheaper sources for 1/2 inch (or more) recycled auto tire mats. Also gyms use rubber mat flooring and they go out of business all the time.
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post #10 of 58 Old 12-18-2015, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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So further update:
Decided to put on the short list for AV equipmonk: (entry level stuff)
Pioneer SP-BS22 5.0 setup
2 Dayton 1200 subs
Onkyo 636

Theater seats will be 2 straight rows of 3 with a riser 5' deep front chairs set to an additional 1' or more forward when they will be in use.

Floor still deciding on 1/2in stall mat with 2 3/4" t/g osb or 3/4" mat and 2 1/2" osb (both use the gg between)

Front projector wall will be covered with black GOM with LED rope lighting behind screen
Still decided to place speakers behind screen or not

New questions are:
Place speaker wire in a box and use putty pad or straight though wall with acoustical sealant plugging the hole?

Could I set the screen on the wall but bring the false wall out still to cover speakers?

Where kneewalls attach to roof use some rubber behind header or use a certain clip or just attach like normal?

Mid January to Early February looks like when I will be starting. Keeping an eye out for deals on materials and equipment.
Thank you big! You have helped me a ton

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post #11 of 58 Old 12-18-2015, 06:30 AM
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wire in hole, Yes, BritinVA has screen on wall but speakers hid

BritInVA Construction Thread
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post #12 of 58 Old 12-18-2015, 07:33 AM - Thread Starter
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That's perfect thanks! Will work on updating the sketch.
Any idea what best for the floor
1/2" or 3/4" stall mat from tractor supply with 2 3/4" t/g osb


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post #13 of 58 Old 12-18-2015, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobsocc7 View Post
Looks like for two rows I would need 108in screen roughly.
First row ~11' second ~16'
5' for length of the full recline of the theater seat (based on 4seating cheaper chairs)
That bring me closer to recommended THX view distance for first row

Am I calculating the distances right from the screen can someone help?

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Hmm 108" seems a bit small. (that said i really like iMax)
My room is in my attic (over garage) and is a bit larger than yours (20 x 24.5 x 10 with 6' knee walls) - my front row is slightly under 11' (eyes to screen) and we use a 144" wide screen (will go wider in next theater)
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post #14 of 58 Old 12-18-2015, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BitChin2 View Post
Hmm 108" seems a bit small. (that said i really like iMax)
My room is in my attic (over garage) and is a bit larger than yours (20 x 24.5 x 10 with 6' knee walls) - my front row is slightly under 11' (eyes to screen) and we use a 144" wide screen (will go wider in next theater)
Thank you for your input. After Big showed me a design where I could keep the screen on the wall and build out for speakers. I came up with an idea to put the largest screen the wall can take (within reason). Then possible install magnets into the side walls in front of the screen. The magnets would allow me to make a mask border for two or three different sizes that I can clip in depending on if front row is used and the aspect ratio of the movie.
Just a thought thou sounds kind of outlandish and haven't fully hashed it out yet...

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post #15 of 58 Old 12-18-2015, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobsocc7 View Post
Thank you for your input. After Big showed me a design where I could keep the screen on the wall and build out for speakers. I came up with an idea to put the largest screen the wall can take (within reason). Then possible install magnets into the side walls in front of the screen. The magnets would allow me to make a mask border for two or three different sizes that I can clip in depending on if front row is used and the aspect ratio of the movie.
Just a thought thou sounds kind of outlandish and haven't fully hashed it out yet...

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Sounds like it could get a bit complicated :-)

What I have found is width is most important factor (think movies). With your sloped ceiling you may be able to get a larger 16:9 image if you build a screen that follows the ceiling slope above the 2.35:1 main screen. Then add permanent border (some sort of velvet cloth) and then add panel above in the triangle to cover the upper 16:9n area when watching a movie. Would require two different adjustments for the various formats from the projector.

I find that most of my movie watching is in 2.35:1 and sports are in 16:9 (sports action is typically with lights on and crip borders are not as important)
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post #16 of 58 Old 12-18-2015, 11:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BitChin2 View Post
Sounds like it could get a bit complicated :-)

What I have found is width is most important factor (think movies). With your sloped ceiling you may be able to get a larger 16:9 image if you build a screen that follows the ceiling slope above the 2.35:1 main screen. Then add permanent border (some sort of velvet cloth) and then add panel above in the triangle to cover the upper 16:9n area when watching a movie. Would require two different adjustments for the various formats from the projector.

I find that most of my movie watching is in 2.35:1 and sports are in 16:9 (sports action is typically with lights on and crip borders are not as important)
You make a good point. I am going to try and sketch up some stuff and I'll hopefully have something to post later. I'm thinking with the current 16:9 screen in one of the photos I don't have enough room to get bigger in that aspect ratio but for movies I got room to grow.

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post #17 of 58 Old 12-18-2015, 11:43 AM - Thread Starter
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post #18 of 58 Old 12-18-2015, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobsocc7 View Post
Thank you for your input. After Big showed me a design where I could keep the screen on the wall and build out for speakers. I came up with an idea to put the largest screen the wall can take (within reason). Then possible install magnets into the side walls in front of the screen. The magnets would allow me to make a mask border for two or three different sizes that I can clip in depending on if front row is used and the aspect ratio of the movie.
Just a thought thou sounds kind of outlandish and haven't fully hashed it out yet...

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Sounds like it could get a bit complicated :-)

What I have found is width is most important factor (think movies). With your sloped ceiling you may be able to get a larger 16:9 image if you build a screen that follows the ceiling slope above the 2.35:1 main screen. Then add permanent border (some sort of velvet cloth) and then add panel above in the triangle to cover the upper 16:9n area when watching a movie. Would require two different adjustments for the various formats from the projector.

I find that most of my movie watching is in 2.35:1 and sports are in 16:9 (sports action is typically with lights on and crip borders are not as important)
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post #19 of 58 Old 12-18-2015, 11:49 AM
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Is this room above a living area or above a garage. My room is very similiar but mine is over a garage. If your room is over a living area, you will be in trouble with the sound. Everybody in the house will hear whats going on. Now if its over a garage you have some leeway. One advantage to an attic space...they love subwoofers!

For those about to rock we salute you!
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post #20 of 58 Old 12-18-2015, 11:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Is this room above a living area or above a garage. My room is very similiar but mine is over a garage. If your room is over a living area, you will be in trouble with the sound. Everybody in the house will hear whats going on. Now if its over a garage you have some leeway. One advantage to an attic space...they love subwoofers!
Yeah, its above a living area and I will try to sound proof the best I can. Getting in trouble is inevitable .

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post #21 of 58 Old 12-18-2015, 02:26 PM
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I would listen to Jeff then. A movie with heavy use of subs and sound will go throughout the house. Tv watching would be fine. Mad Max Fury road, a different story. I planned my house around the home theater. Dedicated attic space above a large garage, the garage is attached, but by a long hallway. The theater room has dedicated steps, HVAC, and is totally isolated away from the house.

Go ahead and buy the sub you plan on using. Plug an old cd player into the inputs. Play it. Then you can start your soundproofing from there.

For those about to rock we salute you!
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post #22 of 58 Old 12-18-2015, 02:56 PM - Thread Starter
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I am definitely listening to Jeff's advise. 1/2" or 3/4" rubber mat with 2 layers of osb with gg and doing the whole room with clips and double drywall with gg
Also I am building the kneewalls on the new floor to help decouple that also


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post #23 of 58 Old 12-18-2015, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Updated to show bumpout around screen and larger screen. The speakers will be behind the bumpout around the screen as well as the subs.
I think I read that the subs might suffer being in an enclosed area.

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post #24 of 58 Old 12-21-2015, 02:07 PM - Thread Starter
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DIY bass shaker think it will work?

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post #25 of 58 Old 12-22-2015, 03:05 PM
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I can't see investing the time and materials to avoid spending $40 on Aura Pro shakers from Parts Express.
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post #26 of 58 Old 12-23-2015, 02:04 PM
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I agree with Big. My first bass shaker was a DIY from and old 10" sub. It shook an entire couch like nuts.. still have it laying around my shop..(sentimental).

In my first "real" HT I went with 4 Aura Pro shakers, one on the back each theater chair pushed with a 300w Bash plate amp. I dialed them in where they assisted and felt natural but before they got goofy overpowering..about half gain on the amp. They had a lot more output that I used.

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post #27 of 58 Old 12-26-2015, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you will go that route. I'm drawing up everything in sketch up and if I go with 96" three seats across I will be left with 3" of 8ft ceiling then the slope starts about 2' 4" to the side I'm at 5'11" ceiling. What would be a good clearance around the risers for height?

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post #28 of 58 Old 12-26-2015, 03:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Crappy photo but my work doesn't have WiFi

Should I buy a inwall speaker or mount a speaker in the wall with a hushbox for the surrounds? (Because the wall is angled and on the wall will reduce height)

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post #29 of 58 Old 12-29-2015, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
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Crappy photo but my work doesn't have WiFi

Should I buy a inwall speaker or mount a speaker in the wall with a hushbox for the surrounds? (Because the wall is angled and on the wall will reduce height)

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do you plan to place the surrounds in any sort of column?

In general the side surrounds should be a little above your ear level - which when seated in front row is around 3' from floor, so depending on size of speaker you choose could be placed on the vertical (or in). Not sure how mounting to the sloped section would affect sound (might not be any issue other than getting too high)
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post #30 of 58 Old 12-29-2015, 10:44 AM - Thread Starter
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No columns have been planned for yet. With 12" riser I figured surrounds would go in between rows slightly above second row high so prob 4'-5'.
I am thinking about making a backerbox to square it up (if there's enough room with speaker) so there is no angle but then the top of the speaker is going to be further in than the bottom. I'm not good at acoustics but if that's a bad idea I can just stick surrounds at 4' and build a little column to fit it.

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