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post #31 of 63 Old 08-28-2017, 08:34 PM
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Soffit built and drywalled, wires neatly coiled, room ready for plastering. And the plastering guy is coming today! There's no way I'm doing the visible plastering, too hard, too long, and I'm horrible at it.

Once the room is plastered, I'll paint the walls with a coat of primer just to protect them and then I'll start building the riser and the stage.

More to come maybe in another three months.
Very cool. You were able to move a little faster on your drywalling. I definitely following your thread, as we are literally at the same place.
I have my first layer of drywall on , and in the process of taping it out to receive the second layer. I too will be hiring out the plaster finishing works, as I want it to look nice, just as you do. I am horrible at it as well.

Congrats on moving along. I know it can be a long process. Looks like your GF is a good helper too. She's willing to pick up the tools and jump in. My wife is the same way! good to have partners like that. Willing to jump in and get dirty! kudos

I also have an Omnipoint rack. I only went with the RE18. Probably could have went bigger, but I had already bought it before i was able to go with option B on my build.


Good luck with the build and keep the photos coming

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post #32 of 63 Old 08-29-2017, 07:52 AM
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Once the room is plastered, I'll paint the walls with a coat of primer just to protect them and then I'll start building the riser and the stage.

More to come maybe in another three months.
They get it taped and and mudded? Sanding beginning today? Looking great. Definitely been following along for a while
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post #33 of 63 Old 08-29-2017, 08:30 AM
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Your summer sounds much like the summer we had here in South Central Alaska - cool and wet. Our leaves started turning around the 10th of August and are now dropping all over the place.

On the other hand you are making great progress!
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post #34 of 63 Old 09-01-2017, 09:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi all,

Thanks for the replies and encouragement.

Not much to report as I've been dependent on the plasterer's time. It's almost completely done, he just has to come back and do the sanding, but he's left for the long weekend, so it won't happen till Monday. His work barely needs sanding though, I'm so jealous!!

@sirjaymz : glad you made it out of Harvey intact, and good luck with your continuing build! I see that you got @BIGmouthinDC to reply to your door seal question which is very cool. He's the man. Even though I bought a solid core door with "seals" around the jambs, I think I'll get a similar seal kit that BIG recommended. Testing the sound insulation now (which is close to final) reveals that most sound is getting in/out through the door.

Here's a very quick pic of the plastering job minus sanding.



This afternoon I'm heading out with the trailer to get some primer and all the lumber to build the riser and stage. Might get some time this weekend to start building them. Here are my dinky plans (wow, I have terrible drawing skills):



Still distracted with the home-brew autopilot project in my Model S, and might be giving it some love this weekend too.
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post #35 of 63 Old 09-01-2017, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by zax123 View Post
@sirjaymz : glad you made it out of Harvey intact, and good luck with your continuing build! I see that you got @BIGmouthinDC to reply to your door seal question which is very cool. He's the man. Even though I bought a solid core door with "seals" around the jambs, I think I'll get a similar seal kit that BIG recommended. Testing the sound insulation now (which is close to final) reveals that most sound is getting in/out through the door.
Thanks for the mention. Yes, my house was a lucky one. Many others, not so.
Yeah, I figured he had used them previously, but was struggling to get direction early on, when i wasn't even close to the door. But now that I am at the door install, i'm glad i was able to get that figured out early on. BIG sure knows his stuff!


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This afternoon I'm heading out with the trailer to get some primer and all the lumber to build the riser and stage. Might get some time this weekend to start building them. Here are my dinky plans (wow, I have terrible drawing skills):



Still distracted with the home-brew autopilot project in my Model S, and might be giving it some love this weekend too.
I was looking at your materials outline on your drawings for the riser/stage. I noticed that you were thinking of only using 1/2" OSB. I'm not sure if you had a chance to read this thread, but you may want to increase the thickness/(mass).
I think it's now acceptable to use GG instead of tar paper, but others still use it.
Hope this helps.

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post #36 of 63 Old 09-02-2017, 06:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the mention. Yes, my house was a lucky one. Many others, not so.
Yeah, I figured he had used them previously, but was struggling to get direction early on, when i wasn't even close to the door. But now that I am at the door install, i'm glad i was able to get that figured out early on. BIG sure knows his stuff!




I was looking at your materials outline on your drawings for the riser/stage. I noticed that you were thinking of only using 1/2" OSB. I'm not sure if you had a chance to read this thread, but you may want to increase the thickness/(mass).
I think it's now acceptable to use GG instead of tar paper, but others still use it.
Hope this helps.
@sirjaymz , thanks for the tip about the thicker decking. I went out and bought 5/8" decking which is remarkably heavier. It's the thickest they had. I'll keep the 1/2" for the stage which won't get stepped on (much), and I'll just screw it down really well.

I have exactly one 12-tube box and 1 single tube of GG left, so I think I'll keep the 12-tube box intact to be able to sell it. I'll just put tar paper between the two layers of decking on the riser and stage since I have a roll of it.

Tomorrow, I'm going to try to do build the riser. It's an optimistic expectation with three kids running around, but who knows, it might just happen!
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post #37 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 04:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey all,

I've been in turbo mode for the past week. Spending hours in the morning and the evening to accelerate things a bit. Here are some pics of progress:


The partially-built riser -- Zoe is stuffing insulation before we cap it.


The pretty much complete riser -- just missing some bull-nose. Ran out of material.


The beginnings of the stage's skeleton


The trusty Tesla I use to haul all my materials -- in this pic, 20 66lb bags of sand.


Those 20 bags of sand ready to be staged (hehe)


The stage with most of the sand stuffing done. Working on the two arcs with 1/4" ply.


Two layers of OSB done on the main part of the stage. First layer PL-glued, second layer green-glued.


The step done with two layers of OSB. Cutting those arcs is a pain in the butt. This pic also shows the bullnose done with two quarter-rounds.


The stage and riser all ready for carpet -- which is ordered and coming in two weeks


Oh and the room is primed. Spent 4/5 hours doing that yesterday.


Even the little cubby for the equipment rack is primed and ready to go!

Next step is going to try to paint the whole room black before the carpet arrives. Would rather paint before carpet.

I actually have a question about paint finish. There will only be paint showing in 4" cracks between the panels. I'm doing "floating" panels this time. There will be LED strips all around the panels which will illuminate them from behind. I want that light (which will be color selectable via DMX512) to reflect off the paint. However, I don't want the paint to be TOO reflective when watching movies to a point where it becomes distracting. So question is, should I use matte, pearl or gloss finish? Here's a render of the cracks I'm talking about:



So I've started to think about equipment:

- I'm sniffing around the Sony VPL-VW285ES now as opposed to the Optoma UHD65. It's a lot more money but is true 4k, has motorized lens zoom and shift... I'm going to be doing a 2.35:1 CIH setup.
- Looking at Elite Screens Sable Frame 2. Should I be looking at something else? I'd say that my budget is around $1000 for up to 125" diagonal 2.35:1.
- Finally, I think I'll go with the upcoming Marantz SR-7012 which will be my receiver and amplification for the 7 channels on the ground, and I'll use pre-out on that machine to go to 4 MA-500 Marantz monoblocks I have lying around which will power the Atmos speakers.

Any comments?

Will post more when there's more to post!

Last edited by zax123; 09-11-2017 at 05:01 AM.
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post #38 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 06:19 AM - Thread Starter
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OK crazy question for the sound/vision experts.

My plan for the screen wall is something like this:



I was wondering if it would be a crazy idea to move the screen forward two feet and make it huge and acoustically transparent. Huge would be 158" diagonally instead of 125" diagonally. Still 2.35:1.

My Paradigm Studio 100 v5s are 17" deep, so the screen would be about 5 inches away from them.

Is this a terrible idea acoustically? The primary seating position would then be about 15' from the screen and secondary would be like 9' from the screen.

Would love opinions. Thanks!
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post #39 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zax123 View Post

- I'm sniffing around the Sony VPL-VW285ES now as opposed to the Optoma UHD65. It's a lot more money but is true 4k, has motorized lens zoom and shift... I'm going to be doing a 2.35:1 CIH setup.
- Looking at Elite Screens Sable Frame 2. Should I be looking at something else? I'd say that my budget is around $1000 for up to 125" diagonal 2.35:1.


Any comments?

Will post more when there's more to post!
This is coming along great! Love the Tesla being put to work.

One thing, you obviously have the skills (I did it, so it doesn't take much), why not build your own frame, buy your screen material from SeymourAV, and use the money saved to cover the extra cost on that Sony projector?

And yes. Go acoustically transparent and bigger.

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post #40 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 08:11 AM - Thread Starter
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This is coming along great! Love the Tesla being put to work.

One thing, you obviously have the skills (I did it, so it doesn't take much), why not build your own frame, buy your screen material from SeymourAV, and use the money saved to cover the extra cost on that Sony projector?

And yes. Go acoustically transparent and bigger.
Hey @thrillcat ,

Thanks for chiming in!

So you would sacrifice two feet of viewing distance for a bigger screen? Even if it makes the effective viewing distances on 9' and 15' for a 158" screen?

As for making my own screen frame -- I would have to read about that. How much did it cost you in the end? For what size? Did you use 4K capable material?

The Elite Screen at 125" non-AT is about $500.
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post #41 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 08:23 AM
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Hey @thrillcat ,

Thanks for chiming in!

So you would sacrifice two feet of viewing distance for a bigger screen? Even if it makes the effective viewing distances on 9' and 15' for a 158" screen?

As for making my own screen frame -- I would have to read about that. How much did it cost you in the end? For what size? Did you use 4K capable material?

The Elite Screen at 125" non-AT is about $500.

The 9' will probably be a little uncomfortable. 15' I would think would be just about right, though I didn't do the math. I'm about 9.5' from a 115" 16x9 and, while a little closer than recommended, I love it.

As for building the frame, I paid about $40 for the lumber, $75 for the velvet wrap, and $200ish for the screen material. I originally used CenterStageXD but swapped out for CenterStageUF when I remodeled and moved my front row up a couple feet. He has a new material just out now that is an even tighter weave, pretty much invisible.

There are two sets of plans on the SeymourAV website, too, for building your own frame. A couple different methods.

Seymour's material is industry standard. Used in countless home theaters, plus mixing & mastering rooms like Skywalker Ranch, etc. They just won a best in show award at CEDIA. Definitely worth looking into over Elite.

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post #42 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 10:05 AM
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Why do you need to go bigger if you move it up and make it AT? Or maybe why does it need to be that big if you move it up?

I've sat 10' from a 150" wide, not diagonal 2.35 screen and I would say that it is "intense", and probably on the upper limits of what I could comfortable handle. It is for that reason that I'm shooting on that or just a hair smaller with similar seating distance in my theater.

If you are considering that big, it's probably a good idea to go ahead and try to figure out a way to set up a temporary screen (like a sheet) and see how you feel watching something on there. This is assuming you have a PJ laying around.

Edit: and as far as DIY screens go, you can get some pretty decent material for probably around $300, so if the frame costs less than $200 (and it should) you are golden. 9 feet is a little close as far as weaves go, but there are some materials out there where you won't be able to see it at 9'.
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Why do you need to go bigger if you move it up and make it AT? Or maybe why does it need to be that big if you move it up?

I've sat 10' from a 150" wide, not diagonal 2.35 screen and I would say that it is "intense", and probably on the upper limits of what I could comfortable handle. It is for that reason that I'm shooting on that or just a hair smaller with similar seating distance in my theater.

If you are considering that big, it's probably a good idea to go ahead and try to figure out a way to set up a temporary screen (like a sheet) and see how you feel watching something on there. This is assuming you have a PJ laying around.

Edit: and as far as DIY screens go, you can get some pretty decent material for probably around $300, so if the frame costs less than $200 (and it should) you are golden. 9 feet is a little close as far as weaves go, but there are some materials out there where you won't be able to see it at 9'.
Yeah, I've been thinking about it, and I don't think I'll do the 158" AT thing. 125" should be fine. I don't want it to be uncomfortable for people in the front row. And the "row" might be a couch so people will be in all kinds of positions and possibly even closer than 9'. I'm also not sure how good it is for speakers to be only 4" from the screen and basically touching the back wall.

One of my motivations was to maybe go 16:9 and not have to worry about CIH and lens memory and that kind of thing, but I really like the look of a 2.35:1 screen so I will stick with that and figure out how to make CIH work...

Thank you for your two cents!
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post #44 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 10:53 AM
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I'm also not sure how good it is for speakers to be only 4" from the screen and basically touching the back wall.

One of my motivations was to maybe go 16:9 and not have to worry about CIH and lens memory and that kind of thing, but I really like the look of a 2.35:1 screen so I will stick with that and figure out how to make CIH work...

Thank you for your two cents!
You can put your speakers less than 1" from an AT weave screen. Set your speakers up 4" from the back wall and see if that's enough breathing room.

You could still go AT, and bigger, and not go the full 158"...

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post #45 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 11:10 AM
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2.35 screens are pretty epic. And if you are looking at 4k (or fauxK), you pretty much get lens memory with your projector, so it's really easy to get into in that case. If you aren't, then options are a lot more limited, and you pretty much have to be looking at some of the older JVCs or Panasonic 8000. In addition you get added benefits with speaker placement, and aesthetically it looks great.

So I'm definitely in pro-2.35 screen camp, and also in pro-AT screen camp.

I would probably recommend looking at a 150" diagonal 2.35 screen. That will be 138" wide. The 16:9 portion of the screen would be a 120" diagonal screen still, and you'd be sitting just over the 1:1 width:seatingDistance ratio.

Still think it would be awesome if you can to get some sheets hung up, and test it all out. You might find that you can go even bigger and not feel uncomfortable.

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You could still go AT, and bigger, and not go the full 158"...
yup
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post #46 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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OK definitely going to need to find a way to set up a projector temporarily and hang some sheets and figure this out. It's the only way I'll make a decision and not feel regret.

Question -- if I want to build a non-AT screen, should I use Seymour GlacierWhite?

And @thrillcat , why did you "downgrade" to CenterStage UF from XD? Or am I reading their site wrong. Looks to me like UF is cheaper than XD...
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OK definitely going to need to find a way to set up a projector temporarily and hang some sheets and figure this out. It's the only way I'll make a decision and not feel regret.

Question -- if I want to build a non-AT screen, should I use Seymour GlacierWhite?

And @thrillcat , why did you "downgrade" to CenterStage UF from XD? Or am I reading their site wrong. Looks to me like UF is cheaper than XD...
UF is cheaper, but it is better - it's a tighter weave with a better picture. But it's lower gain. I believe XD is 1.0 Gain, and UF is .8. You'll want UF, though, if you have a row at 9'. XD's weave starts to become visible in parts of the image when you're inside of 10'. UF, on the other hand, is not visible.

If you want the latest and greatest, give them a call and find out when you can get Enlightor-NEO. It's the screen that just won AVS's best in show at CEDIA. You just plain can't see the weave.

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post #48 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 12:40 PM
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OK definitely going to need to find a way to set up a projector temporarily and hang some sheets and figure this out. It's the only way I'll make a decision and not feel regret.

Question -- if I want to build a non-AT screen, should I use Seymour GlacierWhite?

And @thrillcat , why did you "downgrade" to CenterStage UF from XD? Or am I reading their site wrong. Looks to me like UF is cheaper than XD...
I think what everyone is trying to tell you is that you should go with an AT screen regardless of the size or aspect ratio. Start from there and then figure out the screen size.
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post #49 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 12:48 PM - Thread Starter
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You guys are killing me!!

I can't believe I'm going to chop 2 feet of viewing distance. I also am worried that someone sitting in the front row will block the image from the projector. I just drew basic lines to try and visualize that in the image below, but I don't know how accurate that would be. I guess a test setup would be the only way to know...

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I just went back and looked at the speakers you're using up front. There's no rear port, so you're going to sacrifice very, very little if anything by having them just an inch or two from the front wall. Look at my build thread. I have the ultimate, shallow screen wall.

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post #51 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 01:16 PM - Thread Starter
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So I got all excited about going AT, but then I realized that the soffit above the stage is only 22" deep, so I could never make it work with my pot lights in there...

Oh well, back to plan A.
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Your speakers are only 17" deep though, what wouldn't work?

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post #53 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 01:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Your speakers are only 17" deep though, what wouldn't work?
Well, I have 22" of soffit...

I need 7" for the pot lights:



Then I have 1" of screen frame, 2.5" of screen wall (2 x 3s), 17" of speakers, 2" of OC703.

Total of 29.5".

ARGH
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post #54 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 02:44 PM
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Well, I have 22" of soffit...



I need 7" for the pot lights:







Then I have 1" of screen frame, 2.5" of screen wall (2 x 3s), 17" of speakers, 2" of OC703.



Total of 29.5".



ARGH

Bout to blow y'all's mind.

Move your lights back in the soffit.
Aim them forward, firing at the back of the AT screen - they'll shine through.
Suspend the screen via mounts/arms on back wall that put the screen out far enough without being attached to floor/stage/soffit.

It's doable.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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post #55 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 03:10 PM
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Other alternatives would be to potentially reconsider screen washing completely, or modifying your stage to allow lights to be installed into them, as well as a few other creative ideas (led strips in the custom screen frame!? potentially some crack pot lighting behind the screen that isn't permanently installed into ceiling/floor?!)..

I know I've seen a few threads where people were kind of annoyed with their screen washing lights, because when they later decided to add some velvet to black out the front area, they had to account for that in the ceiling. You may not be planning on that now, so that might not be a big deal.

I'm trying to configure my stage to allow up lighting onto the screen.

The point is, in at least a few of our opinions that have weighed in here, going AT should be a prime goal. In the end it's your theater though, so do what you want for sure.

And you already own your speakers?
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post #56 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 03:20 PM - Thread Starter
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My mind is blown!

Yup I own the Studio 100s and paid a lot for them so wouldn't get much if I had to sell them and buy something to replace them. And they sound AMAZING.

But I'm liking the backlit idea. I did run other wire for LED lighting around the screen as well...

Oh man, now I'm back into this...

You guys are dangerous!!!

@thrillcat -- why did you suggest the arm/suspension thing instead of just building a screenwall out of 2x3s? That way I can use the rest of the wall to support some panels to close up the remaining space, etc...

I like these ideas and I'm seriously considering it all -- again :P

Thank you!!
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post #57 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zax123 View Post
My mind is blown!

@thrillcat -- why did you suggest the arm/suspension thing instead of just building a screenwall out of 2x3s? That way I can use the rest of the wall to support some panels to close up the remaining space, etc...

I like these ideas and I'm seriously considering it all -- again :P

Thank you!!
I guess I wasn't sure if you would still need the screen out further than your 22" soffit or not. The suspended screen could also look very cool, like it's floating. It would save you the depth of your screen wall structure, too.

But also, you don't need to technically build a full wall for your screen wall. I basically have 2 2x4s (1 between the L/C and 1 between the R/C) from floor to ceiling and a french cleat attached to them to mount the screen to. There's a thread in here that is all about the "minimalist screen wall", which has a bunch of great examples of really simple structures that hold the screen and other panels.

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post #58 of 63 Old 09-11-2017, 04:47 PM
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Highly recommending the Elite screens. Have a 120" 16:9 myself. There is really no need to go beyond it pricewize, 1.1 Gain, mine is an non-perforated (normal) type.
Considering going to 150" in my new build, with top/bottom masking for 2.35:1 movies.

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post #59 of 63 Old 10-01-2017, 11:41 AM - Thread Starter
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It's time for a quick update. Got a few things done over the past three weeks. Here are some pics and explanations:


I was so happy to find a distributor for OC703 just 30 minutes away, so I went to pick it all up with my trusty trailer. (Sorry bpape )


We started the star ceiling... it's so much work. I was very inspired by (and have copied) Moggie's design but toned it way down cuz his workmanship is outstanding. I am doing two 4x8 panels of stars. It will be the Northern sky. We projected half of a star map on one and half on the other and since we have four sizes of stars we marked up the MDF for the various sizes of fiber. Thanks Mikey for all your help here!

I bought this unit from AliExpress, comes with 400 stars and twinkle mode and DMX control (I'll be controlling all the lights from Control4).
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/50W-...311.0.0.lnFuYl

Then I had to figure out a rail system to suspend the panels. I found some pocket door rails and decided to cut them up into 4-inch pieces using a grinder. Then the accident happened. While getting the grinder ready (didn't even cut anything yet), I somehow managed to cut my thumb on the grinder. 13 hours and a tetanus shot in the hospital later, and they did this mess:



I'll spare you the before photo, but it was pretty gross.

I've ordered all the LED lighting and DMX control systems for the theater, they started to arrive here and there this week:



Once my thumb had healed a bit, I got back to the panels. Here's my daughter Syd helping me paint them. They will eventually be covered in black FR701 GoM.



The carpet guys came this week too, here's what it looks like:





We ended up choosing a very black carpet. It's nice and soft. The patterns were just too expensive, couldn't justify the expense.

Here's a star ceiling panel with the rails screwed on. Found a much better way to cut the 4 inch pieces with a big grinder-type cutting blade on my 10" miter saw.



And today, I finished gluing 2" OC703 to the front wall and Sydney and I did the bass traps yesterday:



As you can see, we also painted the room black just to have a good background to work with.

We've ordered all the GoM, it's arriving on Tuesday. My girlfriend's work actually has True Textiles as a supplier, so we were able to source fabric directly which is awesome.

Next steps are to finish the star ceiling panels (which is a huge job but it's coming along), and then do GoM on the screen wall. Then we start making panels and doing lighting.

Oh and we've decided to go with a 150" AT screen. I got my hands on a projector and tested it out. 150" is perfect for the back row, but is quite big for the front row. I'll just zoom it smaller if the front row watchers find it too big. Often, it'll just be the girlfriend and I watching from the back row, so 150" will be awesome. Will need to order the material from SeymourAV soon.

I need to order these soon too (Diesel XS950 because they are not wide -- my riser is really small):


That's all for now, chugging along!

Last edited by zax123; 10-01-2017 at 11:45 AM.
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post #60 of 63 Old 10-01-2017, 05:05 PM
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How are you planning on attaching the star ceiling panel to the ceiling?

I was planning on using threaded eyebolts in one (either panel or ceiling) and then threaded hooks in the other.
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