Acoustical Treatments Master Thread - Page 348 - AVS Forum
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post #10411 of 10465 Old 07-20-2014, 08:22 AM
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Thanks Glenn,

What do you think about the back wall? I have two columns about 5 feet apart with dipole speakers inside the columns. I was going to put 4 inch thick OC 703 between the columns and put the FRK facing on so I don't absorb too much of the sound from the dipole speakers. I still want the sound to reflect a little.
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post #10412 of 10465 Old 07-20-2014, 09:15 AM
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post #10413 of 10465 Old 07-20-2014, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfipie View Post
No, you never want to use facing on the panels if in the early reflection point.

http://www.gikacoustics.com/video-ea...ection-points/
Thanks, I was getting confused from your earlier qoute... Now I understand.

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post #10414 of 10465 Old 07-20-2014, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfipie View Post
Having the fiberglass in those corners should be fine, if I am understanding your question correctly. Basically all corners are good to use for bass trapping.
Thanks Myfipie,

Just want to clarify before cutting up all this expensive OC703... I am cutting them into 16 triangles, as opposed to the popular 8 pieces.

This is OK yes??


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post #10415 of 10465 Old 07-21-2014, 03:17 AM
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Just want to clarify before cutting up all this expensive OC703... I am cutting them into 16 triangles, as opposed to the popular 8 pieces.
That is going to be pretty small and is not going to work all that great below 200hz or so. I recommend making the triangles no less then 16"x16"x24" honestly.

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post #10416 of 10465 Old 07-21-2014, 06:38 AM
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Ready to buy Roxul and Pink Fluffy. I got a few important questions before committing a lot of money to it.

1. Should I get 40, 60 or 60 KG/M3?
2. Pink Fluffy (glass wool). This if for under the Riser (as a general bass trap). I intend to fill it all up, about 6 feet in length and 10 feet wide, and 1 feet high. Again, people say get pink fluffy/glass wool instead of RockWool, so, again, the question, would 30 KG/M3 work?
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post #10417 of 10465 Old 07-29-2014, 11:56 AM
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I am looking to make some bass traps for my rear wall in my HT. The wall is 15' wide, and I was thinking of using Roxul RX60 3" thick with 2 layers... Is this a good way to go?

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post #10418 of 10465 Old 07-29-2014, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
I am looking to make some bass traps for my rear wall in my HT. The wall is 15' wide, and I was thinking of using Roxul RX60 3" thick with 2 layers... Is this a good way to go?
6" thick won't do much bass trapping. It'll probably rather have great influence on everything except the bass, so it's still not a bad idea.
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post #10419 of 10465 Old 07-29-2014, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post
6" thick won't do much bass trapping. It'll probably rather have great influence on everything except the bass, so it's still not a bad idea.
I should have said I will also have a 1' x 2' soffit also all around the room for bass traps, plus in 2 of the corners behind my AT screen. I hope i will have enough.

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post #10420 of 10465 Old 07-29-2014, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post
I should have said I will also have a 1' x 2' soffit also all around the room for bass traps, plus in 2 of the corners behind my AT screen. I hope i will have enough.
Much better. No riser for back seats that you can use as well?
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post #10421 of 10465 Old 07-29-2014, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post
Much better. No riser for back seats that you can use as well?
We have a riser, but the way it was built we can't use it for a bass trap. If need be, we might be able to get a couple of feet of depth behind the front speakers to make a bass trap 19' wide x 8' tall. Currently I was planning on 2" Roxul R80 for the whole wall behind the screen. How do I know when I have enough?

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post #10422 of 10465 Old 07-29-2014, 11:15 PM
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How do I know when I have enough?
That's easily answered - you never have enough basstrapping. You'll just have to use your ears and any measurement equipment available to decide when you're content.
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post #10423 of 10465 Old 07-30-2014, 09:20 AM
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Having the fiberglass in those corners should be fine... Basically all corners are good to use for bass trapping.
What about a corner that ends and opens into a room after about a foot or two? Would it make sense to place a bass trap where the red line is in my room diagram attached? Or is that not considered a "corner" for the purpose of bass trapping?
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post #10424 of 10465 Old 07-31-2014, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by PoshFrosh View Post
What about a corner that ends and opens into a room after about a foot or two? Would it make sense to place a bass trap where the red line is in my room diagram attached? Or is that not considered a "corner" for the purpose of bass trapping?
Those corners would work. They are pretty much at the end of the wall/ceiling/floor boundaries.

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post #10425 of 10465 Old 08-01-2014, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by PoshFrosh View Post
What about a corner that ends and opens into a room after about a foot or two? Would it make sense to place a bass trap where the red line is in my room diagram attached? Or is that not considered a "corner" for the purpose of bass trapping?
Sure. And if you do symmetrically the same in the other front corner, you'd get a really big one - and a nicer look.

If I read the plan correct, you have a big opening in the side and also no door before the staircase? I'd try hang some heavy drapes there, I think that could have noticable effect too.

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post #10426 of 10465 Old 08-17-2014, 11:05 AM
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How do you attach ceiling panels? I have a double drywall with green glue and hat channel ceiling. I was thinking of using these, but I am not sure they can handle the weight of 2'x4'x4" Acoustic panels. If I use toggle screws then I have to penetrate the double drywall, and will loose the benefit of the soundproofing won't I?

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post #10427 of 10465 Old 08-18-2014, 07:46 AM
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Those are made for walls, not ceiling so I would not recommend them. I always use butterfly/toggle screws.

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post #10428 of 10465 Old 08-28-2014, 07:40 PM
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Didn't have time to read all 348 pages prior, but I did read a decent amount to catch up. Finally getting the room dubbed "Theater Room" for the past 13 years together! Starting from the ground up. It is on the second floor so floor joists as the floor. Starting with carpet and working up. Any suggestions on padding or carpet types? Also had a question on the use of draped fabric for the ceiling. Would it work to have a thicker fabric draped from pole to pole kind of a thing. As it hangs it would arch down towards the floor and also be somewhat bunched up rather than pulled tight? Thanks! Looking over the GIK Acoustics site too.
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post #10429 of 10465 Old 08-28-2014, 07:40 PM
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Didn't have time to read all 348 pages prior, but I did read a decent amount to catch up. Finally getting the room dubbed "Theater Room" for the past 13 years together! Starting from the ground up. It is on the second floor so floor joists as the floor. Starting with carpet and working up. Any suggestions on padding or carpet types? Also had a question on the use of draped fabric for the ceiling. Would it work to have a thicker fabric draped from pole to pole kind of a thing. As it hangs it would arch down towards the floor and also be somewhat bunched up rather than pulled tight? Thanks! Looking over the GIK Acoustics site too.
Jon

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post #10430 of 10465 Old 08-29-2014, 02:29 AM
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Why do you need fabric on the ceiling? Are you covering up fiberglass?

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post #10431 of 10465 Old 08-29-2014, 05:30 AM
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I was reading on here were guys were talking about putting curtains on the walls to help with sound absorption/diffusion. (not sure of proper terms yet) I have a sloped ceiling that starts at 5'6" at the front and goes up at an 8:12 pitch to 12'. Then it runs flat for approx 12' and then back down to the 5'6" in the back. I was thinking the curtain type fabric would help knock down anything bouncing off of the ceiling. Or I could just be wrong, which it ok. Just seemed like a decently cheap solution that I could do myself. Still trying to get this all figured out.

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post #10432 of 10465 Old 08-29-2014, 12:45 PM
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If you can have the curtains a foot from the wall, all the better. It doesn't do much flat on the wall.

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post #10433 of 10465 Old 09-01-2014, 01:37 PM
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I am getting ready to re-buy new acoustic panels. I bought a 6 pack of 703 a while back and was getting ready to throw them up, even built the frames. Then my wife started researching 703. She does not want to have anything to do with it. So I started doing my research. I am looking at Audimute Eco panels, which seem to be expensive and they are 1.5 inches thick. Their sites states it ha better absorption then 703. I am also looking at Knauf and wondering if it just as bad as703. It is definitely cheaper then the Audimute stuff. Any thoughts as they are having sales online today so I'd like to figure it out soon. Thank you
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post #10434 of 10465 Old 09-02-2014, 12:59 PM
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I'm working on a supply list for my theater room. Going to put in corner traps up front, I don't see many folks trapping the back corners, any particular reason not to?


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post #10435 of 10465 Old 09-02-2014, 01:49 PM
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The more low frequency absorption you have, the better. If it's feasible to put absorption in the rear corners, it's a good idea. Generally, people who don't are making a compromise based on available space and other uses for that space.
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post #10436 of 10465 Old 09-02-2014, 02:14 PM
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If I have subs placed in the corners , should I have the bass traps only above the subs or have them all the way, floor to ceiling? I suspect that the bottom part of the corners where the subs are should be left naked but I am not sure. What would you recommend?


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post #10437 of 10465 Old 09-02-2014, 03:53 PM
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I personally think that if the rear corners are the best place for your subs - or for whatever reason the only place for your subs - then treat around them as you can. Ceiling to subs sounds good. More experienced folks may disagree, but I think placement for smooth response is a more powerful tool than trapping for smooth response.


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post #10438 of 10465 Old 09-02-2014, 06:12 PM
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I personally think that if the rear corners are the best place for your subs - or for whatever reason the only place for your subs - then treat around them as you can. Ceiling to subs sounds good. More experienced folks may disagree, but I think placement for smooth response is a more powerful tool than trapping for smooth response.
Thank you for the reply. The subs are not all the way in the corners, there is enough room for the trap.
I am asking what the best practice is. Should I have the traps fully cover the corners or only from the subs up?
These are front corners if it matters.
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post #10439 of 10465 Old 09-02-2014, 07:53 PM
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If there is space available for a trap, use it. The proximity to the sub doesn't change anything.
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post #10440 of 10465 Old 09-03-2014, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by myfipie View Post
Both are going to reduce "reverb" in a room. Not sure what the density is of the other, but 4" 703 straddling the corner will work very well. If you plan on filling the corner then you want to use the less dense of the two.

NCR of 1 really does not tell you want it is doing on the low end, just what it is doing over all. Not a bad thing to look at but when looking at numbers you want to look at the low end test results vs the upper frequencies. Hope that makes sense.
Does that mean best practice in the first decade of the millinium, of making "super chunk corner traps" cutting OC703 in 17x17x24" triangles and stacking them, is not recommended any more?
Should I use lesser dense/rigid material than oc703 for a super chunk?

In one rear corner, I need a removable bass trap (there's a small door for accessing the roof), and I was thinking making a 2'x5'x 4" OC703 filled wooden frame straddling the corner, rather than a superchunk. Would that work?

Thanks! :-)
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