Acoustical Treatments Master Thread - Page 364 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10891 of 10919 Old 05-29-2015, 03:51 PM
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I just ordered up 6 ATS Acoustic Diffusers 23" x 48" x 6", QRD 7 type for the back area of my HT room.

I'll be replacing rear first reflection absorbers with two of these. I'll be putting 2 on the back wall while leaving bass absorbers. I'll be hanging 2 on the ceiling over rear surrounds over bass absorbers.

Look under "Clearance" they have them for nearly half price, http://www.atsacoustics.com/acoustic...clearance.html . They are unfinished but it's pretty easy to use
wood stain and varnish or a one step product.

I'd get more but I really don't have room for them till I do at least remodel the existing theater room

I've not ordered from ATS before so if you want to wait and see what my experience with them is I'll be happy to post back.

I'll post back when they arrive but they're not supposed to ship till 6/2 or 6/3.

Cheers,

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post #10892 of 10919 Old 06-01-2015, 04:59 AM
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Hi, guys!

I am doing my first home theater build and using sound treatments for the first time. I came across tube-shaped bass traps in the wholesale market dedicated to audio and home theater here in Guangzhou. Do these things actually work? They seem way too light to function as a bass trap. What am I missing?

Thanks!
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post #10893 of 10919 Old 06-01-2015, 05:11 PM
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They do work - probably. Some designs might actually be pretty good. Other designs are only useful over a very small bandwidth. Hard to say.
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post #10894 of 10919 Old 06-02-2015, 05:31 AM
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Good morning group,

Will get better pics, but this to start:

The pic is of my handicapped sons duplex. The echo is simply maddening. I placed an area rug, some vinyl blinds, some darkening drapes...The couch is pleather/vinyl, glass front picture hanging, vaulted ceiling(s) that opens into a very open kitchen, also with vaulted ceiling.

The plan: To make my own frame box, covered in sound deadening blackout drapery material. Question is how large, many and ideal placement?

The plan: 1 4x2 behind each tower and one 4x2 above the TV. 3 - 4x2 on the opposing wall above the couch...one near the front windows about 8" above couch back, the hanging picture moved to center over couch with 4x2 oblong above the picture (if space allows, this one may be sized to fit), and the 3rd panel above the end table.

Thoughts: Unseen as of yet, but thinking I will still need more treatments going into the DR/KIT open area.

Suggestions are most welcome as this I am just learning about, for the sole purpose of echo control on the cheap (but effective).
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post #10895 of 10919 Old 06-02-2015, 05:00 PM
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4x2 is a fine size and you're off to a pretty good start with the locations. If you are only using the stereo pair of speakers, with no center and normally not using the TV speakers, then the panel centered on the TV may be superfluous. The panel behind the listeners should come all the way down to be as close to the top of the couch as you can tolerate: directly behind your head.

You said, "sound deadening blackout drapery material." This is only part of the story. The panels need to be thick - like four inches thick - and filled with some kind of fibrous absorption - like rockwool; the classic recommendation for this sort of application is Owens Corning 703, but there are other similar products available. If you do that, the covering is a lot less important. In fact, the covering is best as a thin cheap fabric; again there are several options, but they should allow the sound to pass through them into the mineral wool interior.

If three panels in those locations is insufficient, I'd suggest even thicker panels in the corners, to help with bass response.
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post #10896 of 10919 Old 06-05-2015, 11:13 AM
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I am just starting on a spare bedroom theater project, it won't be anything major. I haven't decided where/if I am going to put the side/rear surrounds yet but I already have my L/R SVS Ultra Bookshelf's on 32" Transdeco speaker stands off to the side of the console(not pictured) and a SVS SB-2000 up front(not pictured). Listening position will be around 4' from rear wall. I plan on building a window plug for the only window in the room.

To get started on acoustic treatment, my plan was to put 1-2 GIK TriTrap(s) in the left corner(only corner available) and to be symmetrical, I was going to put a bass trap to the right side as well(not a corner), but didn't know which bass trap would be a compatible match to the TriTrap, a Monster Trap or a 244 Trap, with or without range limiter?

TL;DR:

1) Glenn, what GIK bass trap matches the TriTrap best, and with/without range limiter?

2) For anyone, I am not going all out on first purchase. Does my plan of bass traps on front two corners and a 2'x4' Monster Trap on the rear wall behind the couch sound like a good plan?

3) For anyone, my USB UMIK-1 is on it's way, would it make sense to set this up and completely learn REW before even thinking about what acoustic treatments to get? I think it's pretty clear by my room size/shape that I will need bass absorption before even opening REW.
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post #10897 of 10919 Old 06-08-2015, 08:25 AM
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[QUOTE=jaychatbonneau;34663065]Hi, guys!

I am doing my first home theater build and using sound treatments for the first time. I came across tube-shaped bass traps in the wholesale market dedicated to audio and home theater here in Guangzhou. Do these things actually work? They seem way too light to function as a bass trap. What am I missing?

Thanks![/QUOTE


The shape really has not influence on absorption. It really comes down to size (larger the better). If made from foam I would not think they are doing much.

Glenn Kuras
GIK Acoustics

http://www.gikacoustics.com

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post #10898 of 10919 Old 06-09-2015, 06:46 PM
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@SandstormGT
after looking at the room size above, not much different than mine
from my own learning,
listening to a variety of vids from "acoustic fields' dennis foley, & others from you tube
i was going "Hmmmmm!" after a discussion of room size and the realistic possibilities of "effective ' (?) treatment
when
his advice was, if a room is less that 1500 ft^3, get a bigger room . . . .
after that I sent him a description of my man cave
this:
In my small room < 10' x 11' closer to 100 sq.ft. About 900 ft^3
in the right front corner standing up, a 30" THTLP, loading distance to the ceiling 20+"
in the left rear corner standing up, a 24" THTLP, distance 21+" (because I could , that's why)
using a Denon X4000 and its separate sub EQ thru 2 BASH 300's, xo 80
immersing and most authoritative to say the least
L/C RB 51's C: G-28, Sl/r S-10's , RS (one)SLX, Front highs some big ass RS3II's all Klipsch,
XT32 does nicely using PlIIx, Neo:X etc. for music and movies
and 4 Aura shakers with a PE 250 watt amp on the seating for good measure
and a 73" Mitsy DLP for visuals , with a new lamp
a panasonic BD that does 2d>3d
Direct TV, my laptop, 3T drive full of stuff
total light black-out, heavy lined draped walls
a background noise level of 37-38 dB
windows stuffed with 3” roxul S&S
free standing 16 x 47 3” Roxul 1st reflection pt. panels

so if by using what i can between the
avr, audyssey and whatever else I can stuff in there try to make it sound as clear and "unsmeared"
but the difference in Gravity even in Neo, no ATMOS or DSU Neo in my bigger room and this small spot
well there is no room for openess or great panning spaciousness

so "settling" but not without a fight for " near field intimacy"

for tonight I'm putting 2 more 2 ish x 4 ish 3" roxul panels on the wall behind the TV in the vicinity of the bookshelves mains.

keep us posted on what you do and PICS!

DIY FAN Denon X5200 , Emotiva UPA7, for 7.3.4 ATMOS/DSU SHARP 80" LED/LCD
FL/FR: DIYSG Fusion 15's , Center: DIYSG 88 Special , SL/SR: RC3II , SRL/SRR: F-3Towers, TF & TR: SLX
2 30" BF THTLP'S , SUBMAXIMUS, 2 x Inuke6000DSP & 2 driverless LHORN cabs
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/401-di...rs-subwoofers/
www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
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post #10899 of 10919 Old 06-09-2015, 06:46 PM
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@SandstormGT
after looking at the room size above, not much different than mine
from my own learning,
listening to a variety of vids from "acoustic fields' dennis foley, & others from you tube
i was going "Hmmmmm!" after a discussion of room size and the realistic possibilities of "effective ' (?) treatment
when
his advice was, if a room is less that 1500 ft^3, get a bigger room . . . .
after that I sent him a description of my man cave
this:
In my small room < 10' x 11' closer to 100 sq.ft. About 900 ft^3
in the right front corner standing up, a 30" THTLP, loading distance to the ceiling 20+"
in the left rear corner standing up, a 24" THTLP, distance 21+" (because I could , that's why)
using a Denon X4000 and its separate sub EQ thru 2 BASH 300's, xo 80
immersing and most authoritative to say the least
L/C RB 51's C: G-28, Sl/r S-10's , RS (one)SLX, Front highs some big ass RS3II's all Klipsch,
XT32 does nicely using PlIIx, Neo:X etc. for music and movies
and 4 Aura shakers with a PE 250 watt amp on the seating for good measure
and a 73" Mitsy DLP for visuals , with a new lamp
a panasonic BD that does 2d>3d
Direct TV, my laptop, 3T drive full of stuff
total light black-out, heavy lined draped walls
a background noise level of 37-38 dB
windows stuffed with 3” roxul S&S
free standing 16 x 47 3” Roxul 1st reflection pt. panels

so if by using what i can between the
avr, audyssey and whatever else I can stuff in there try to make it sound as clear and "unsmeared"
but the difference in Gravity even in Neo, no ATMOS or DSU Neo in my bigger room and this small spot
well there is no room for openess or great panning spaciousness

so "settling" but not without a fight for " near field intimacy"

for tonight I'm putting 2 more 2 ish x 4 ish 3" roxul panels on the wall behind the TV in the vicinity of the bookshelves mains.

keep us posted on what you do and PICS!

DIY FAN Denon X5200 , Emotiva UPA7, for 7.3.4 ATMOS/DSU SHARP 80" LED/LCD
FL/FR: DIYSG Fusion 15's , Center: DIYSG 88 Special , SL/SR: RC3II , SRL/SRR: F-3Towers, TF & TR: SLX
2 30" BF THTLP'S , SUBMAXIMUS, 2 x Inuke6000DSP & 2 driverless LHORN cabs
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/401-di...rs-subwoofers/
www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1485120-submaximus-large-front-loaded-horn
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post #10900 of 10919 Old 06-11-2015, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnoonie View Post
I just ordered up 6 ATS Acoustic Diffusers 23" x 48" x 6", QRD 7 type for the back area of my HT room.

I'll be replacing rear first reflection absorbers with two of these. I'll be putting 2 on the back wall while leaving bass absorbers. I'll be hanging 2 on the ceiling over rear surrounds over bass absorbers.


I've not ordered from ATS before so if you want to wait and see what my experience with them is I'll be happy to post back.

I'll post back when they arrive but they're not supposed to ship till 6/2 or 6/3.

Cheers,

The diffusers I ordered arrived day before yesterday and the UPS delivery person rolled the boxed diffusers end over end from the truck to my house. Of the 6 I ordered all were damaged, 2 were damaged on the back and are still usable but not the rest. ATS is graciously replacing the 4 I asked to be replaced.

I've had similar problems with UPS and FedEx ground shipments for about 10 years. I'm wondering if this is something unique to the Seattle area.

ATS packaging looks very good but not good enough. They likely need double boxed or better yet... I've had better luck shipping heavy bulky items palatalized and by freight. It's a pain since you have to pickup the items at the shippers warehouse but at least the items are safe.

I'm still trying to decide on what color stain too use. Dark Cherry is too dark and Light Cherry is too light, I'm thinking Cabernet, Red Chestnut or Red Mahogany.

If my upgraded theater ends up looking finished enough I might start a thread for it. I'm thinking I'll run out of money before I get to that point. Getting some other upgrades (furnace ducts, insulation) is the priority now but if I have enough left over after that I might get theater seats and build a nice soffit, at that point I'd consider doing a writeup.

Cheers,
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post #10901 of 10919 Old 06-12-2015, 05:11 AM
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Quote:
1) Glenn, what GIK bass trap matches the TriTrap best, and with/without range limiter?
The 244 and the Monster have a nice peak of absorption at around 80hz (down to around 60hz) where the Tri Trap is a unit that is designed to go to 50hz, but does not have the peak at 80hz. If you want something close then I would go with the Monster. In your case I would go full range as you are not starting out with all that much so you really don't need to worry about over absorbing the upper frequencies at this point.


Quote:
2) For anyone, I am not going all out on first purchase. Does my plan of bass traps on front two corners and a 2'x4' Monster Trap on the rear wall behind the couch sound like a good plan?
Plenty of my customers start with a small amount as you are thinking then add over time.

Glenn Kuras
GIK Acoustics

http://www.gikacoustics.com

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post #10902 of 10919 Old 06-12-2015, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myfipie View Post

Plenty of my customers start with a small amount as you are thinking then add over time.
I treated what I knew I should treat, 2" at first reflections both side and ceiling and 4" corner bass traps. Then I tested with TrueRTA to find out what to do next and choose absorbers accordingly. I've still got listening space problems due to some open walls and doorways and maybe some other problems that I won't know about till I fix the walls and doors, but one step at a time, you've got to start somewhere.

Cheers,
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post #10903 of 10919 Old 06-13-2015, 05:51 AM
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So, for HT use where would be the most beneficial placement of diffusion panels? My room is 18"W X 15'D X 7' 10"H. I have read on acoustic sites, books and forums several different theories on placement from overhead at the main LP, back walls and even suggestions for side walls. I have experimented with treatments on my room and have it sounding "about right" with absorption panels and getting good results from REW but I feel it could use some diffusion to enhance separation for my 9.2 speaker set-up.
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post #10904 of 10919 Old 06-13-2015, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdaddieo View Post
So, for HT use where would be the most beneficial placement of diffusion panels? My room is 18"W X 15'D X 7' 10"H. I have read on acoustic sites, books and forums several different theories on placement from overhead at the main LP, back walls and even suggestions for side walls. I have experimented with treatments on my room and have it sounding "about right" with absorption panels and getting good results from REW but I feel it could use some diffusion to enhance separation for my 9.2 speaker set-up.
This is my first first hand experience experimenting with diffusion so I don't know for sure what exactly to expect. What inspired me to get some diffusion was a visit to the Seattle Cinerama, Avengers: Age of Ultron in Imax Laser/12.1 vs Christie Lamp/Dolby Atmos.

Based on that experience I'd say that the diffusion there didn't help separation but did make the room sound more spacious. I liked the sound enough to want to try it in my little theater, 11' 7" x 16' 5" x 7' 8".

With my current setup I get stereo FX way beyond the speaker placement now. I get these FX (sounds up to 4 feet beyond the speaker) mostly with stereo recordings that go out of their way to produce that effect and less so with movies even through they're multichannel. Even so most movie FX go several feet beyond the speaker placement.

Cheers,
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post #10905 of 10919 Old 06-13-2015, 04:11 PM
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I'm working on treating my dedicated home theater. While doing the clap test, I have noticed a metal resonance. Upon inspection I have determined it is the 2' x 2' metal register that delivers the hvac into the room. What would be a good way to deaden it, so that it would no longer vibrate and make noise?
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post #10906 of 10919 Old 06-14-2015, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdaddieo View Post
I have read on acoustic sites, books and forums several different theories on placement from overhead at the main LP, back walls and even suggestions for side walls..
I'll be putting my new diffusers on the back wall and back of the side walls. Several places recomond not putting diffusion closer than 1' of the listening position for each inch of depth of the diffuser (if that doesn't make since just say so, I think I wrote that right), so in my small space that limits placement. I may try moving some around behind the front speakers or beside the front speaker, I'll make some stands to set them on/in so I can experiment once I get the little remodel of the theater room finished. I already have diffusers across the top of the front wall.

Perhaps you're already seen but..
http://www.acousticsfirst.com/articl...al-theater.htm
http://www.gikacoustics.com, their videos have some tidbits as does every other seller of diffusers.

Cheers,

Last edited by dnoonie; 06-14-2015 at 03:17 AM.
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post #10907 of 10919 Old 06-14-2015, 02:53 AM
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I've watched the Pod Race (Star Wars Episode 1) in a highly reflective environment, and heard the pods moving left to right when on the screen they were moving right to left -- very poor imaging. And then after putting up first reflection point absorbers, suddenly the sounds of the pod race were in directional sync with the video -- very good imaging. Left me with the impression that the first place to put acoustical treatment is wherever fixes the Pod Race.

An amateur built the Ark. Titanic was built by professionals. Of course Noah took a little advice.
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post #10908 of 10919 Old 06-14-2015, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billqs View Post
I'm working on treating my dedicated home theater. While doing the clap test, I have noticed a metal resonance. Upon inspection I have determined it is the 2' x 2' metal register that delivers the hvac into the room. What would be a good way to deaden it, so that it would no longer vibrate and make noise?
Here's some thoughts:
* take it out and see if that area still has a vibration, maybe it's the duct and not the air vent diffuser
* replace it with a heavier duty one
* bend the veins to see if you can get it to stop vibrating
* replace with a nice looking wood air vent diffuser
* tighten and loosen the screws that hold it in place
* jam something under a corner of it to see if you can tweak/twist it to get it to stop vibrating

I've messed with stuff like this before and even if you find a fix for the air vent diffuser you have now it will likely start vibrating again sometime in the future. I think your best bet is replacement.

http://www.raymon-hvaconline.com/
https://www.google.com/search?q=24x2...FceUiAodOd0ASg
http://www.grainger.com/category/gri...ecatalog/N-jze
http://www.grainger.com/category/dif...ecatalog/N-m1m
http://www.vandykes.com/air-vents-re...grilles/c/331/

Cheers,
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post #10909 of 10919 Old 06-14-2015, 06:57 PM
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Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, it is one of those 3 layer metal diffusers so certain vibrations just leave it ringing like a bell. With that being said, its not terribly noticeable during content play. It just happens to reverberate at exactly the frequency of the hand clapping noise from the clap tests. I was thinking of putting foam weatherstripping around the 2 x 2 grid opening to see if that would help and/or attaching strips of fabric to the underside, taking care not to block the airflow, but probably replacement makes more sense. It's just a standard issue 24 x 24 diffuser for a drop ceiling. The duct work going to it is flexible material and hasn't added to the noise that I am aware of.

On the google page I saw an ABS made diffuser which comes in black and so would match my suspended ceiling. I may try that. It's not much more expensive than the regular metal ones.
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post #10910 of 10919 Old 06-15-2015, 11:21 AM
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For a general clap test, I would recommend you sit in your seat and have someone clap over top of your speaker. What you are looking for is the relation of the sound coming out of the speaker to your seating spot. Not the sound generated from the seat, unless you clap all the time.

Glenn Kuras
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post #10911 of 10919 Old 06-23-2015, 08:57 AM
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Thanks, Glen! Yeah I was walking around the room clapping. While I am pleased with my home theater, it doesn't lead me to spontaneous applause.

I have another question or two about room acoustics. My room is 10x21x8 with a drop ceiling. I placed sound blankets on the walls and it really improved clarity in the treble. I knew, though, that lower mids and bass would need the help of bass trapping as the blankets don't carry full range protection. (They did help tremendously with flutter echo from the two parallel walls that are located only 10 feet from each other.) I should also mention I have 2 subs to attempt to help with some of the nulls in the room. One is placed left front and one is placed rear center.

I read on Ethan's site and using bags of insulation placed in a corner. I did a google search and found the Jon Risch Down and Dirty rolls of insulation left in the bags bass trap idea. I bought 6 rolls which gets me floor to ceiling if I stack all of them together. There is only one of the 4 corners I can do that, however, and that is the rear left corner as you face the screen (and that blocks the breaker box.) The rear right has the entrance door, I have wall to wall screen (133" diagonal 16x9 on a 10 foot wide wall) on my front wall so there's not room for floor to ceiling rolls of insulation on the left front wall, and my right front wall has the entrance to my equipment closet.

When I stacked them in the left rear corner, it attenuated the bass alright. Made it very anemic sounding. Also, I noticed a good bit of shrill highs I don't normally have. Since the insulation bags were near the left rear surround, I surmised the high frequencies were being reflected by the bag plastic and the lows were being absorbed.

After that, I tried to put the insulation bags behind the speakers in the front left and right corners. I could only fit 2 high as my screen begins 36 inches from the floor. I put two in each of the front corners and last 2 in the rear left corner. I'm not sure that's enough to be effective as I didn't hear any big bass changes. (I don't have a real boomy bass problem, I'm aware of.) I also hear more high information but at a loss of the clarity I had gained. I put this down to first reflections bouncing off the plastic as well.

I have a couple of different questions.

1. Jon Risch suggested when covering the rolls of insulation fabic to install poly batting to absorb more of the higher frequencies. Would this tame some of the errant high frequencies I hear?

2. Would I do better to place all 6 insulation bags single file on the floor below the screen to cover that meeting of corners? It would gain me about 8 feet of coverage that way.

3. Is it worth doing floor to ceiling bass trapping in the rear left corner if that is the only corner I can do it in?

Thanks for everyone's help!
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post #10912 of 10919 Unread 06-25-2015, 04:06 PM
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I'm flattered to have the last word... but I still hold out hope for some help. I've modified from the diagram above and moved all 6 bales of fiberglass to the corner between the screen wall and the floor, behind the speakers, but single file to see if that cut out some creepy sounding reflections. It appears to have worked, but I still don't feel the bass is "trapped" so to speak. I got material to polycover and burlap to wrap the bales so they are better looking, but I need honesty if this is not the best plan. I'm also not opposed to purchasing some bass traps at a reasonable price that could fit my stage.

I know not many people go the acoustic blanket route, but it does seem to have noticeably quieted echoes. I do have much better definition in my high frequencies. I am also open to other ideas to help improve the sound.

Thanks!
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post #10913 of 10919 Unread 06-25-2015, 05:46 PM
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IMO with bass trap placement you have two options: use as many as you can stand; or take some measurements of the bass response and decay and use that to figure out which places need absorption.
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post #10914 of 10919 Unread 06-26-2015, 06:53 AM
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Well, turns out 6 bales of fiberglass lined up under the screen still in their bags doesn't have a wonderful WAF score however the sight of them got me permission from "da boss" to order some actual bass traps that would look good in the room. Since I have 36 inches before I hit screen and 10 feet wide to place, I'm thinking 2 limp membrane 4" thick 4' x 2' panels would fit nicely under the screen. I might get one or two more for the rear of the room. My second sub is back there and there's nothing to tame the "savage beast" in the area at the moment.

Am I right in thinking the limp membrane traps would offer me a bit more sophisticated solution than just putting rockwool in a burlap sack which is very effective but I could do DIY? I'm thinking about traps like the ReadyTraps or the GIK 244. Most corners in my room are occupied so I don't see much possibility of using a superchunk type design. (The one completely open corner has my breaker panel on one of the walls, so any corner trap there would need to be movable... also probably not the best idea to keep that panel behind fabric.) I could fit some Next Acoustics foam behind the door corner as they offer an 8 inch side and 12 side in their corner wedge foam to increase mounting possibilities. But my understanding is that foam is really not that useful for trapping bass.

There's also the possibility of putting thick batting above the drop ceiling, although I am death to ceiling tiles. Although not designed for sound blocking, that might also provide a bit of attenuation from the bedroom upstairs. Have to admit I'm really NOT looking forward to working above the drop ceiling again.

Last edited by billqs; 06-26-2015 at 07:01 AM.
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post #10915 of 10919 Unread 06-27-2015, 07:30 AM
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Hi all,

So using 60kg/m3 Rockwool behind the screen, is it ok to just cover it with black acoustically transparent material? Similar to the Guildfordds of Maine material?

I'm assuming this is mainly to stop fibres floating through the air? And to stop reflections from the light coloured Rockwool back through the screen?

Display : JVC X500 Projector | SE 103" Enlightor 4k | Panasonic 65VT30 |
Sources : Oppo 103 D Multizone | Apple TV3 | HTPC | Sky HD | Sonos Connect | Synology 24Tb |
Audio : Marantz 8802a | Genelec 8050 LCR | Monitor Audio IDC Sides & Rears | Seaton Submersive Master/Slave |
Control : Control 4 |
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post #10916 of 10919 Unread 06-27-2015, 06:03 PM
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GOM would work fine. It's a little pricey for this use though. I used black speaker cloth from Rose Brand. Cheaper and still fire rated.

http://www.rosebrand.com/product800/...peaker%2bcloth
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post #10917 of 10919 Unread Yesterday, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AidenL View Post
Hi all,

So using 60kg/m3 Rockwool behind the screen, is it ok to just cover it with black acoustically transparent material? Similar to the Guildfordds of Maine material?

I'm assuming this is mainly to stop fibres floating through the air? And to stop reflections from the light coloured Rockwool back through the screen?
I did pretty much exactly what your doing, Roxul ATF behind my screen. I framed out the back and just put insulation inside, kind of like your building another wall. Then just covered it with fabric from Jo Ann fabrics, it was a very light black fabric so sound easily could go through. Very cheap. But you never really see it unless your behind the wall, so it works very well.
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post #10918 of 10919 Unread Yesterday, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KanosWRX View Post
I did pretty much exactly what your doing, Roxul ATF behind my screen. I framed out the back and just put insulation inside, kind of like your building another wall. Then just covered it with fabric from Jo Ann fabrics, it was a very light black fabric so sound easily could go through. Very cheap. But you never really see it unless your behind the wall, so it works very well.
Thank you!

Ordered up today, cheapest fabric also, as its hidden, same as yours, no need to go overboard!

Display : JVC X500 Projector | SE 103" Enlightor 4k | Panasonic 65VT30 |
Sources : Oppo 103 D Multizone | Apple TV3 | HTPC | Sky HD | Sonos Connect | Synology 24Tb |
Audio : Marantz 8802a | Genelec 8050 LCR | Monitor Audio IDC Sides & Rears | Seaton Submersive Master/Slave |
Control : Control 4 |
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Originally Posted by BllDo View Post
GOM would work fine. It's a little pricey for this use though. I used black speaker cloth from Rose Brand. Cheaper and still fire rated.

http://www.rosebrand.com/product800/...peaker%2bcloth
Does that speaker cloth have any sheen to it, or is it pretty light absorbing? I have seen some speaker fabrics that seem to have a little sheen. I'm trying to decide between black GOM for my columns and speaker cloth. Rosebrand is half the price. Thanks.

James

My theater build 2015 (Circle N theater)
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...ter-build.html
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