Acoustical Treatments Master Thread - Page 365 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10921 of 10933 Unread 07-02-2015, 05:24 PM
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As far as controlling sound, rattles, and vibration, has anyone encountered their screen rattling at times? I find myself constantly making adjustments and shoving foam between the screen and the metal track trying to find a way to resolve it. Doesn't happen often, but when I hear it rattle, it's very annoying. I appreciate any suggestions from folks who may have had a similar problem.

I have a 110" Fixed DragonFly Screen
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post #10922 of 10933 Unread 07-13-2015, 07:57 AM
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New theater

Hi all, first post in this fantastic and loong thread.
I am Marco, I am from Italy, and I have a sickness for audio video etc etc.
Most of my friends knows it and always came and ask.
Last one want to build a theater in his bunker, yes a concrete bunker.
I've been trying to learn as much as possible.
I wanted to build a theater 5m by 7m, height is variable, 2,1m in the first part, then 2,9m. Planning to make 9.2.6, is it possible?
6 would be 2 ceiling mounted and 4 reflecting, what would you use as a material where you expect the reflection of the atmos module?
Then I have tousand more of question but I think it is enough as a start.
Marco.
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post #10923 of 10933 Unread 07-13-2015, 10:23 PM
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I'm back. Been busy selling my old speakers and getting the M&K 150's set up. I'm leaning heavily on placing a thick insulation like an R30 and place around the perimeter of the room on top of the ceiling tiles, though again, I hate getting into the tiles. Still would be less work than lining the entire ceiling with it. Is R30 thick enough? It appears like it would be. I've taken care of my high frequency problem with Acoustic blankets, so I don't really want more high frequency absorbsion. I believe having the ceiling tiles as a barrier would prevent highs from becoming further attenuated.

I put a drawn out image of my room about a page back. It's 10 x21x8 to drop ceiling. I'm thinking I'd get similar response to soffit mounting by placing the thick fiberglass on top of the perimeter tiles, plus the traps would be out of the way of the floor. It seems like a good first start. As I mentioned before, I have real trouble doing floor to ceiling traps in corners due to my layout.

It's not that I'm noticing bad sound, it's just a warmer sound because the highs no longer have room gain and echoes. My two subs help regulate peaks and nulls and are not on the boomy side, though the Boston Acoustics 12" is not in the same caliber as my SVS sub I use up front. My main goal I guess is to shorten time durations after signals leave the subwoofer so that they become more distinct and don't bleed over other sounds.

Is my solution sound? (no pun intended.) I figure I can supplement with some limp membrane traps if needed as they can go up against the wall.
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post #10924 of 10933 Unread 07-16-2015, 07:40 PM
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Nice
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post #10925 of 10933 Unread 07-17-2015, 08:45 AM
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So, I'm off to buy the fiberglass for perimeter placement above my ceiling tiles. I have a choice of R38 16 inches wide or R30 24" wide. Which would be better?
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post #10926 of 10933 Unread 07-18-2015, 01:08 AM
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Can I just clarify something?

Is it correct that ordinary fibreglass rolls are better for Superchunk traps than rigid Rockwool slabs?

It's a lot cheaper if so. I thought denser Rockwool would be better?

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Last edited by AidenL; 07-18-2015 at 01:40 AM.
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post #10927 of 10933 Unread 07-18-2015, 07:43 AM
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The story is that when thicker than 6", lower gas flow resistivity material is more effective at low frequencies. So, yes: loose fiberglass batts will be more effective bass traps than something like 6pcf fiberboard will be.
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post #10928 of 10933 Unread 07-19-2015, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post
The story is that when thicker than 6", lower gas flow resistivity material is more effective at low frequencies. So, yes: loose fiberglass batts will be more effective bass traps than something like 6pcf fiberboard will be.
That's a pleasant surprise. I have some Rockwool left over, but I'll get another use for it.

I'll buy two rolls of fibreglass today.

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post #10929 of 10933 Unread Yesterday, 09:21 AM
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I understand the need for absorption, diffusion as well as bass traps but since I have crossed over to atmos my thinking is somewhat fussy now. With this new format the front three speakers don't seem to be much more driven than the balance, well not quite as much as they were before. I'm planning on adding some panels but now I'm somewhat waiting to see what the experts think about placement. Should I set absorption panels at the front three speaker 1st reflections points as previously recommended? Can someone weigh in on this topic, please?
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post #10930 of 10933 Unread Yesterday, 10:53 AM
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I'm ::so:: not an expert, but I would think ideally you would want to to absorb first reflections from all channels. With Atmos that can be anywhere from 9 to 13 channels. That's one reason I decided to treat my entire room above ear level.

If you can't do this, then I believe the frontstage is still the most important to treat. Remember that first reflections hit the ceiling and floor as well as the side walls, and there can be some scatter if your room is narrow (like mine is.)

Why not start with treating the first reflections from your frontstage and see how you like the results. If you like them, then you can add more treatment later.
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post #10931 of 10933 Unread Yesterday, 09:04 PM
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Can someone tell me if a riser made as a bass trap would negate having to install corner traps as well? Sealed room.

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post #10932 of 10933 Unread Yesterday, 09:10 PM
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Well there's not really any information you've posted on your room so it's hard to say...
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post #10933 of 10933 Unread Today, 04:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asoofi1 View Post
Can someone tell me if a riser made as a bass trap would negate having to install corner traps as well? Sealed room.
Depends on the riser you build and the room problems you want to fix
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