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Old 03-08-2017, 09:11 PM
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I don't know if this is the sort of question to ask here, but the walls in my home theatre room vibrate loudly in certain places and I want to put about 3 screws through the wall and into the frame because when I press my hand against the vibrating places the noise stops immediately, so fixing them will obviously do the trick.

But the studs in walls are only going to be present in the places where the wall is already screwed to the frame isn't it?

Or should I be getting someone to see if the existing screws that were put through into the frame were not screwed in securely enough?

It is a brand new house. Less that 5 months since completion.

I have had a lot of problems and am taking the builder through the process to get him to fix issues with the house but I didn't raise the issue of the vibration with them because I doubt walls vibrating from $25000 equipment in a 16x16x8 room falls under expectations of construction.

But I don't want to just do whatever works, I want to do it right so that it is fixed permanenty and in a way that doesn't mess up the walls. Pulling sections of the wall out etc is also absolutely noy an option.

Basically I'm hoping I can get about 30-40 of the right type of screws put through the wall, into the frame and then filled on the ends, sanded and painted. Also a half dozen on the other side of the wall.

Is that the right track or is this a much bigger issue?
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Old 03-09-2017, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dchalfont View Post
I don't know if this is the sort of question to ask here, but the walls in my home theatre room vibrate loudly in certain places and I want to put about 3 screws through the wall and into the frame because when I press my hand against the vibrating places the noise stops immediately, so fixing them will obviously do the trick.

But the studs in walls are only going to be present in the places where the wall is already screwed to the frame isn't it?

Or should I be getting someone to see if the existing screws that were put through into the frame were not screwed in securely enough?

It is a brand new house. Less that 5 months since completion.

I have had a lot of problems and am taking the builder through the process to get him to fix issues with the house but I didn't raise the issue of the vibration with them because I doubt walls vibrating from $25000 equipment in a 16x16x8 room falls under expectations of construction.

But I don't want to just do whatever works, I want to do it right so that it is fixed permanenty and in a way that doesn't mess up the walls. Pulling sections of the wall out etc is also absolutely noy an option.

Basically I'm hoping I can get about 30-40 of the right type of screws put through the wall, into the frame and then filled on the ends, sanded and painted. Also a half dozen on the other side of the wall.

Is that the right track or is this a much bigger issue?
The 16x16x8 room dimensions might be the issue with the room modes being stimulated
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Old 03-09-2017, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Lesmor View Post
The 16x16x8 room dimensions might be the issue with the room modes being stimulated
There are obviously room mpdes but that's an entirely differnt issue from vibrating walls where they are not fixed properly to the frame. Especially when the vibrations are nowhere near the corners.

I called a builder who does small jobs and asked about it, mentioning my builder and he said that he doesn't know how my builder still has a license and that he recently worked on another house built by the same a-hole who screwed up mine....and that that house had the exact same issue. Them I called the plasterer recommended by the guy I called and when I mentioned my builders name he said the same thing. He checked the house out and said that not only did he likely not use glue like he was supposed to. But that it seemed like he only used nails to fix the wall to the frame in order to cut corners and explained that a bowing in a skirting board is proof that he hasn't fixed the wall panels to the frames properly.

So it's a construction issue.

Anyway problem solution found now...
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Old 03-09-2017, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by dchalfont View Post
There are obviously room mpdes but that's an entirely differnt issue from vibrating walls where they are not fixed properly to the frame. Especially when the vibrations are nowhere near the corners.

I called a builder who does small jobs and asked about it, mentioning my builder and he said that he doesn't know how my builder still has a license and that he recently worked on another house built by the same a-hole who screwed up mine....and that that house had the exact same issue. Them I called the plasterer recommended by the guy I called and when I mentioned my builders name he said the same thing. He checked the house out and said that not only did he likely not use glue like he was supposed to. But that it seemed like he only used nails to fix the wall to the frame in order to cut corners and explained that a bowing in a skirting board is proof that he hasn't fixed the wall panels to the frames properly.

So it's a construction issue.

Anyway problem solution found now...
That's good but if you post a question in a acoustic treatment thread don't get narked if you then get a suggestion of room modes vibrating the loose panels reply and then say of course there are room modes.
If you know that much then you also know to use another room as the one you are using is unsuitable.

I am not in the least bit interested in, as we say in the UK cowboy builders,we have enough of our own.
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Old 03-09-2017, 07:15 PM
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Be careful, you don't want a wall to fall on you. You should check local building code. Be careful where you use screws and nails.

Building code in my area states nails must be used when building wood homes and not screws. I looked it up and the reason behind it is that screws sheer and nails bend. So in an earthquake the house built with wood and nails would be ruined but it would still hold together because and not collapse flat because the nails would bend and not break. Try a search, there are some great videos of tests out there, it's pretty interesting. In an earthquake you'd be able to crawl out of a wood house put together with nails, where a wood house built with screws would likely kill you.

Of course attaching Sheetrock is another story.

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Old 03-10-2017, 04:28 PM
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Hi Guys! So I could use some help here. I need some help on what to do with acoustic treatments. I have a 100’ roll of 1” Linacoustic, and 8 - 2’x4’x2” panels. Where should I put them? I have an AT screen, and my theater room is 12’ wide by 20’ long. I know I want to hit the first reflection points, but my question is more of, if you had that for acoustic treatment, what would you do? Side note, I love big bass in movies, so I don’t want to reduce the bass in the room at all. Thank you.
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Old 03-10-2017, 09:21 PM
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Just to give you guys an idea of my space. All of the fabric in the room now is acoustically transparent fabric. So I'm planning on putting the treatment behind the fabric. This is also my old screen. I now have an AT screen. the ceilings are about 8 ft high.
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Old 03-11-2017, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erwinfrombelgium View Post
Correct, but 2x of very little is still not a lot. I mean, 150 Hz will not be absorbed much by 2" of material. It's really mid+high absorption.

This said, it's obvious that the most effective use of 2" panels is indeed with a 2" gap.
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Originally Posted by JWL.GIK View Post
Agreed. Adding an airgap roughly the same thickness as the panel itself will generally get you about another octave of useful absorption on the low end.
I ended up going with 1x4 wood.. which is really 3.5" deep. So, I'll have about a 1.5" air gap between the drywall and the OC703.

Question: Does drilling 1" holes in the wood frames really do much, like this guy did...
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Old 03-11-2017, 08:37 AM
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Hey guys, not sure if this question was asked here. What would be preferred room finish material for a small dedicated HT room to achieve best acoustical performance? Drywall, wood paneling, something else? Of course, plan is to put acoustic treatments on top of that.

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Old 03-11-2017, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by donktard View Post
Hey guys, not sure if this question was asked here. What would be preferred room finish material for a small dedicated HT room to achieve best acoustical performance? Drywall, wood paneling, something else? Of course, plan is to put acoustic treatments on top of that.
This stuff looks pretty good!!
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Old 03-11-2017, 09:29 AM
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Drywall is most cost effective. It has the right "limp mass " properties. Best practice is double layer with GreenGlue in between. This absorbs down to 250 Hz. Sub 100 Hz is difficult to contain other than with concrete.

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Old 03-11-2017, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Livin View Post
Question: Does drilling 1" holes in the wood frames really do much, like this guy did...
It makes the frame lighter.

If I mashed the buttons correctly, 1" would seem to help with absorbing ~7khz on up for all sound hitting the panel mostly tangentially?

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Old 03-11-2017, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by erwinfrombelgium View Post
Drywall is most cost effective. It has the right "limp mass " properties. Best practice is double layer with GreenGlue in between. This absorbs down to 250 Hz. Sub 100 Hz is difficult to contain other than with concrete.
I was not asking specifically to contain sound, I have a pretty good idea what is required for that. I was wondering if any material is beneficial specifically for room acoustics, basically, to take the load off any additional acoustic treatment I might add. For example, bathroom tile or glass walls sound like a bad idea.

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Old 03-12-2017, 03:00 AM
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From what I have read, the best practice for behind the screen wall is 1" linacoustic, poly, then 1" linacoustic. Does it matter what mm the poly is? I think BIG has said 4mm and I've heard a couple say 6mm. And does this include the side wall that goes out until the screen as well(for me it's about 36")?
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Old 03-12-2017, 03:03 AM
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From what I have read, the best practice for behind the screen wall is 1" linacoustic, poly, then 1" linacoustic. Does it matter what mm the poly is? I think BIG has said 4mm and I've heard a couple say 6mm. And does this include the side wall that goes out until the screen as well(for me it's about 36")?
Don't confuse mm for mil (which is a thousand of a mm), the poly they are referring to is 0.004 to 0.006mm.

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Old 03-12-2017, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by JMAX2016 View Post
From what I have read, the best practice for behind the screen wall is 1" linacoustic, poly, then 1" linacoustic. Does it matter what mm the poly is? I think BIG has said 4mm and I've heard a couple say 6mm. And does this include the side wall that goes out until the screen as well(for me it's about 36")?

Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC
Per both Toole and Erskine. Fiberglass insulation in front corners for the purposes of bass trapping is waste of money. At the front corners standing waves are at their highest pressure level but lowest velocity. Fiberglass is a velocity bass absorber. You want to make a dent on bass you need membrane absorbers. Of course you should know what frequencies you need to tame because membrane traps are effective over certain frequencies. So what to do? Put a layer of 3mil plastic between the two layers of linacoustic on the front wall and it will behave as a membrane trap of sorts.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-100...083C/202184059

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Old 03-12-2017, 12:55 PM
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Don't confuse mm for mil (which is a thousand of a mm), the poly they are referring to is 0.004 to 0.006mm.
Okay, thank you. I actually thought it was mm.
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Old 03-12-2017, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC
Per both Toole and Erskine. Fiberglass insulation in front corners for the purposes of bass trapping is waste of money. At the front corners standing waves are at their highest pressure level but lowest velocity. Fiberglass is a velocity bass absorber. You want to make a dent on bass you need membrane absorbers. Of course you should know what frequencies you need to tame because membrane traps are effective over certain frequencies. So what to do? Put a layer of 3mil plastic between the two layers of linacoustic on the front wall and it will behave as a membrane trap of sorts.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-100...083C/202184059
Okay, thanks. I'm going to go get some 3 mil today and put it up.
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Old 03-12-2017, 01:03 PM
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Guys, can someone give me some advice on what to do on the theater side of the AT screen. I've read hundreds of pages and listened to 2 podcasts on acoustics. The problem is that they seem to conflict with each other. What Anthony Gramani says makes sense. But then I see these $300,000 theaters, and they are doing something slightly different. Mainly the percentage he says to cover. I know I want atleast 2" panels. I have all rock wool panels as of now. And I'll have what is left of my Linacoustic roll I could use.
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Old 03-12-2017, 01:06 PM
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I could even make more panels. I just want to do it the RIGHT way!
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Old 03-12-2017, 01:18 PM
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FWIW, I went from floor to ceiling panels to no panels on the front wall after reading accoustics on realtraps.com and I improved my sound big time. I have some foam panels directly behind the speakers to tame the voice echos, but I love the way my theater sounds now.

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Old 03-12-2017, 04:01 PM
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I would like some advice. My local building supply store has Supress Sound Deadening Board, and I'm wondering if I can use it as a substitute for Linacoustic/Insul-shield etc.

http://www.supressproducts.com/sound...ing-Board.html

Thanks!
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Old 03-12-2017, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Livin View Post
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC
Per both Toole and Erskine. Fiberglass insulation in front corners for the purposes of bass trapping is waste of money. At the front corners standing waves are at their highest pressure level but lowest velocity. Fiberglass is a velocity bass absorber. You want to make a dent on bass you need membrane absorbers. Of course you should know what frequencies you need to tame because membrane traps are effective over certain frequencies. So what to do? Put a layer of 3mil plastic between the two layers of linacoustic on the front wall and it will behave as a membrane trap of sorts.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-100...083C/202184059
Considering limp mass absorbers target a very narrow frequency range, which frequency can you hope to target with this sandwich?

Now looking at the DIY limp mass absorbers they build over at Gearslutz I can't imagine 3mil of plastic will do anything at all considering they use a thousand times thicker steel plates as membranes.

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Old 03-12-2017, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by drunkpenguin View Post
FWIW, I went from floor to ceiling panels to no panels on the front wall after reading accoustics on realtraps.com and I improved my sound big time. I have some foam panels directly behind the speakers to tame the voice echos, but I love the way my theater sounds now.
That's similar to what Anthony Gramani says. So that's what makes it confusing. I just finished installing the 1" lin, 3 mil, 1" lin. About to calibrate then start listening. If BIG says this is the way to go though, I believe him. He seems to be knowledgable as can be with this.
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Old Today, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by JMAX2016 View Post
That's similar to what Anthony Gramani says. So that's what makes it confusing. I just finished installing the 1" lin, 3 mil, 1" lin. About to calibrate then start listening. If BIG says this is the way to go though, I believe him. He seems to be knowledgable as can be with this.
Check this article,http://realtraps.com/art_front-wall.htm

And this thread, https://www.gearslutz.com/board/bass...-monitors.html

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