Acoustical Treatments Master Thread - Page 399 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11941 of 11946 Old 08-15-2017, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by grendelrt View Post
More of an aesthetic thing, I might be able to do a 2" panel or something, but I don't want anything really large hanging down if possible. With the ceiling speakers and projector could get complicated. Looking for other possibilities before I go down that road =) Didn't know if diffusion was one, I only have absorption right now and I know there is supposed to be a balance.
2" absorbers with 703/705/Roxul works pretty well, I've switched to 4" for my front ceiling first reflection points but the 2" seemed to do a good job too. I have Roxul 4lb in the front and a mix of 4lb and 8lb in the back. I have 2" on the front sides with a 1" gap (first and second reflection points), because of space considerations I'm not going with 4".

The rule of thumb for diffusion positioning is a foot of distance for every inch of thickness for the diffusion otherwise you get image smearing (at least that's been my experience, someone with more knowledge might be able to fill in) so if you have the distance from the ceiling 1st reflection point to your seating position diffusion might work for you. Diffusion would tend to be thicker than absorption so I'm not sure it would be better for you or not.

Cheers,
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post #11942 of 11946 Old Yesterday, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by dnoonie View Post
2" absorbers with 703/705/Roxul works pretty well, I've switched to 4" for my front ceiling first reflection points but the 2" seemed to do a good job too. I have Roxul 4lb in the front and a mix of 4lb and 8lb in the back. I have 2" on the front sides with a 1" gap (first and second reflection points), because of space considerations I'm not going with 4".

The rule of thumb for diffusion positioning is a foot of distance for every inch of thickness for the diffusion otherwise you get image smearing (at least that's been my experience, someone with more knowledge might be able to fill in) so if you have the distance from the ceiling 1st reflection point to your seating position diffusion might work for you. Diffusion would tend to be thicker than absorption so I'm not sure it would be better for you or not.

Cheers,
Yeah etc graph says 4.65ft to the point on the ceiling, so that's 4.65inches at the hight point of the diffusion material? For a 2" roxul panel I wonder if I could get away without framing it, maybe use a back board and fabric, 2" seems doable at least.
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post #11943 of 11946 Old Yesterday, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by grendelrt View Post
Yeah etc graph says 4.65ft to the point on the ceiling, so that's 4.65inches at the hight point of the diffusion material? For a 2" roxul panel I wonder if I could get away without framing it, maybe use a back board and fabric, 2" seems doable at least.
The GIK 2" panels are 3.625" thick since they have a built in plenum. The Acoustimac 2" panel is 2.25" thick with backing (I have the Acoustimac and I measured it). If you can spare slightly less than a 1/4" I'd go with a backing, it just seems like it would be easier to mount.

For flush mount to a ceiling I would choose the Acoustimac z-bar, http://www.acoustimac.com/acoustic-i...ation-hardware, I've used these and like them, they give you a little wiggle room as apposed to the ATS z-bar, https://www.atsacoustics.com/acoustic-panel-zbars.html, which I have also used, they give you a supper snug fit, no wiggle room so it would scar any surface you use them on when you mount a panel, the advantage being that you're not going to have any rattles to deal with (I've cleaned up mounting hardware rattles by putting cloth around z-clips and z-bars). If you have a panel without a backing you could possibly use Rotofast anchors, https://www.atsacoustics.com/cat--Accessories--103.html, I've not tried them so I don't know how well they work. I'm just not sure how to do a supper clean look flush mount without a backing.

Cheers,
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post #11944 of 11946 Old Yesterday, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by dnoonie View Post
The GIK 2" panels are 3.625" thick since they have a built in plenum. The Acoustimac 2" panel is 2.25" thick with backing (I have the Acoustimac and I measured it). If you can spare slightly less than a 1/4" I'd go with a backing, it just seems like it would be easier to mount.

For flush mount to a ceiling I would choose the Acoustimac z-bar, http://www.acoustimac.com/acoustic-i...ation-hardware, I've used these and like them, they give you a little wiggle room as apposed to the ATS z-bar, https://www.atsacoustics.com/acoustic-panel-zbars.html, which I have also used, they give you a supper snug fit, no wiggle room so it would scar any surface you use them on when you mount a panel, the advantage being that you're not going to have any rattles to deal with (I've cleaned up mounting hardware rattles by putting cloth around z-clips and z-bars). If you have a panel without a backing you could possibly use Rotofast anchors, https://www.atsacoustics.com/cat--Accessories--103.html, I've not tried them so I don't know how well they work. I'm just not sure how to do a supper clean look flush mount without a backing.

Cheers,
Doh I bought some 2" Roxul 60 from Acoustimac today already. Can you get those zbar equivalent locally at lowes or somewhere (if not I can order some later once I know how many panels)? I was thinking of just building a frame for the acoustic material to keep the edges looking nice. Might actually put a back board on the frame and use spray adhesive or something to help with the droop of the roxul laying on the fabric. Any ideas on that part, I know my wall panels the roxul moves around but its not much of an issue since they aren't upside down.

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post #11945 of 11946 Old Yesterday, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by grendelrt View Post
Doh I bought some 2" Roxul 60 from Acoustimac today already. Can you get those zbar equivalent locally at lowes or somewhere (if not I can order some later once I know how many panels)? I was thinking of just building a frame for the acoustic material to keep the edges looking nice. Might actually put a back board on the frame and use spray adhesive or something to help with the droop of the roxul laying on the fabric. Any ideas on that part, I know my wall panels the roxul moves around but its not much of an issue since they aren't upside down.
If you call or email them you might be able to get them to add the z-bar to the order.

Most of my panels I've purchased from Acoustimac and they simply stretch the fabric tight enough that there's no sag and staple it in place. So when I made a set of panels (I needed a custom size) I simply stretched the fabric tight enough to eliminate sag, I used a staple gun to secure the fabric (just the standard Arrow T50, practically wore my hand out). I'm happy with the results and my projects have been spaced months apart to give my hand a rest...I still just use the T50. If you don't have a staple gun consider an electric or or air type if you have a compressor.

Attached you'll find pics of a black panel that I did myself and a red panel that Acoustimac did. Note that the fabric was cut with pinking sheers to eliminate unraveling of the fabric. The Fabric is Acoustimac DMD, in hind site I wish I'd have used Gilfords for ease of matching.

Cheers,
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post #11946 of 11946 Old Yesterday, 08:58 PM
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Nice the fabric I have used in the past wasn't that strong, so maybe I'll switch that up. I was also thinking I could just put some clips on the side facing the floor to keep the material from laying on the fabric, as long as my chunks of roxul lay flat on them.
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