I have drywall going up soon and wanted to run my plan by "the experts" to see if I have any design flaws in my theater build. Please let me know if you have any thoughts about anything at all. The ability to make changes to the plan easily are about to be over.
Thank you!
Projector: JLC X550 or Sony hw45es (I can't make up my mind what is more important to me)
AVR: Anthem 720
Speakers: have not even narrowed the field yet
Why such a small screen for such a big room ? And why would you place a cabinet under the screen ? How far off the ground is the screen ? I assume you will have plugs covering the windows, right ?
If I was building a whole room, I wouldn't skimp on the projector; I would use a JVC RS400 to get the brightness for a larger 156" 2.40:1 image while using its motorized zoom lens for a smaller 122" 16:9 image within the 2.40:1 screen. It would be mounted with lens 18' away from the screen which would keep it 6' behind viewers with sensitive ears.
It would only be 12' wide, less than 10% wider than the seating distance. A 16:9 image that wide would be too large only because of the height, but our eyes have more horizontal range than vertical so for movies the extra width is just barely enough to make the difference between "cinematic" and "big TV". That is me, though, and I have measured where I prefer to sit in commercial cinemas many times. Sitting slightly closer than the width of the screen puts me about the third row of the middle section in a stadium theater. If you are the type that prefers a row in the back of the theater, then maybe a smaller screen is right for you.
I agree with Buddylee, go with an AT screen with speakers behind it. We started with a non-AT screen and with Phase 2 of our theater I'm working to evaluate AT fabrics to retrofit our existing frame.
On size, we have an 110" screen at 10' viewing distance, but most like it larger. We auditioned on the wall for a long time and with movies like Saving Private Ryan and The Hurt Locker, we felt the jerky camera work was too hard to watch with bigger sizes like 114" or 120". We watch about 65% TV and 35% movies, so we went with a 1.78:1 screen because I didn't want to mess with changing aspect ratios and a CIH configuration (though many others do that and love it).
Our screen will be getting larger though, as after I retrofit it with AT fabric, it needs to come forward for the center channel speaker and give the 2-4" of space it needs. But after a year watching things at this size, having it a tad larger won't bother us. The benefits of having the speaker directly behind the screen will be worth it.
It reminds me of REVIT. That is my favorite software I have ever learned how to use. I've been away from CAD programs since graduating in 08 but have a copy of REVIT on a desktop. Wish I knew someone that could transfer it over to a laptop without the KEY.
You mention you are about to put drywall up but I don't see an equipment closet or rear wall.
Are you leaving the space wide open like that in the rear? I would put a wall up atleast somewhere way you can actually treat it acoustically and have a space for other surround channels.
Have you ran smurf tube and wires for future speaker upgrades? 3D sound will take off once enough people experience it. In my opinion it's way better than going from 1080P to 4K in an HT. 4K TVs with close viewing distances is another story lol.
Yes I agree with some of the others. Go with an AT screen way you can place your speakers where they belong. I've had many setups without an AT screen and always thought they were actually awesome. Then when I built a baffle wall and threw an AT screen in front of my speakers my thoughts completely changed. There is no going back unless I were to have an opertunity for a super bright rear projection setup. Then and only then would I leave the AT screen setup.
I would most definitely put some mirror tint on those windows and cover them as well if can get by with that (WAF or Code). The least you could do is tint them and make plugs for them if just absolutely have to stay.
I would go larger with the screen for sure. I remember my first large Carada screen 110" 16.9 and it was as large as would fit but I sat rather close to it with zero issues. Then I went scope format and will never go back but would go IMAX if ever had room to match my room width with height. Right now my scope screen is just a few inches shorter than my space will physically allow and 13' wide. My first row is 12' away which I find somewhat close on some really jerky camera work and have to move back to the middle row but 95% of the movies are just fine and the room is used 85% for movies so the scope format is a must since rarely watch TV in there or play games.
You have a nice size space to work with and I wouldn't get in any big hurry to close it up if this is your first real home theater build. Sound proofing is so so important yet most first time builds skip this because of the extra materials, labor, and costs involved. It does so much more than just help keep sound from reaching other areas of the house. It keeps noises out as well and that along with the lower noise floor are the main advantages. Then the osb or whatever type of wood the user installed before the drywall allows for pretty much unlimited space of being able to mount columns, trim, acoustic panels, speaker mounting hardware, etc... The low noise floor is what I really really want but don't have since I decided that living out in the country with literally zero neighbors or heavy traffic would be fine. Oh how wrong was I! I don't have any outside objects generating a bunch of noise and my room is far far far away from any indoor activity by family members yet I have a noise floor of 50-60dbs. That might not sound like much but it literally makes my dynamics only capable of 55dbs in the absolute perfect scenario from a completely quiet scene to the loudest explosion at reference volume (now this doesn't account for some in depth calibration which involves reference levels being calibrated above 115dbs because of multiple surround channels). People pay gobs of money for amps and processors capable of huge dynamics but yet their rooms won't allow them to be heard. And I fall into that camp lol.
Have you planned for the subs to only be able to be placed in those two locations?
I would prewire/smurftube for multiple subs as well or atleast multiple sub locations.
This may not fall into the pre drywall stage but remember that anything on the ceiling that is within line of sight will shine from reflections during viewing. Totally recessed lights, or even using some type of different levels of ceiling where its highest level is placed closest to the screen. That would change the line of sight and have the trim obscured from the seating position viewing angle. Placing the lights only around the perimeter is also doable with the many different types of lighting which can be angled 180*. Rope lighting can also be hidden well enough to light up the room when the lights need to be on yet aren't visable when they are off while viewing content.
The room will have strict light control. The windows will be blacked out (easy as this is a north facing wall and the windows are small). I am planning for black on the screen wall and grey on the side wall with a curtain that can be pulled across the side walls to enhance light control and sound.
I have added conduit for pulling wire in the future everywhere I could think of and I have the option to move the subs on the side walls instead of front of the room.
I am a little hesitant to go scope format because we will watch tv and sports as well as gaming for kids in addition to movies. I would estimate close to 50/50 for movies versus TV/sports/games. I have been thinking about it with your feedback and I could go with a 13' or 14' wide scope screen and still get a good size 16:9 image
I am now looking at the JVC RS 400. Will this be enough lumens for a 13' or 14' wide 2.4 scope screen.
I am also concerned that going this big at a 12-13 foot viewing distance will be overload.
For audio, I am planning to start with 5.2.4 Atmos with the ability to add more channels down the road.
Thanks again for your feedback. This is very helpful in working through the design process. I am really thinking about going scope format and bigger with the screen after hearing your feedback. I'm just worried that the screen size will be too big for the viewing distance. Any feedback from your experience would be appreciated. I have attached an elevation of the screen wall with 13' screen.
The software i am using is published by Chief Architect Software.
Which version if I may ask? Is it the Pro line (too expensive for me I'm afraid), or the Home Designer line? If Home Designer, which flavor (Pro, Architectural, Suite, or Interiors)? Thanks in advance.
I made these in the Premier version. I work for the company, so have access to the top products. For a project like a theater, you could probably get away with the $99 Home Designer Suite version. If you want to be able to add dimensions to elevations you would need the Home Designer Architectural version. The Home Designer website has free trial versions that you can download.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
AVS Forum
34M posts
1.5M members
Since 1999
A forum community dedicated to home theater owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about home audio/video, TVs, projectors, screens, receivers, speakers, projects, DIY’s, product reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!