(Catchy Theater Name Here) New Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 123 Old 10-04-2016, 10:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Glen Lake Cinema - New Build

After two and a half years in our house I finally have enough items checked off the to-do list to start on the basement finishing. I have almost finished framing and am getting all my rough in parts ordered. Our plan is to have a large entertainment space in the basement with a semi-dedicated theater. The back of the theater will have barn doors on an eight foot wide opening. I know a lot of you cringe when I say that, however I am no audiophile and my wife is more concerned about entertaining. This will open the theater to the bar area and during get togethers will be fun. I will just need to build the barn door extra heavy duty. I still need to come up with a name. I was thinking Walnut Ridge Theater.(lots of Black Walnut trees in our yard and on the hill/ridge we live on)

The theater will be 14'w x 23' deep. It is completely room within a room construction and is only in contact with the basement floor and a couple home made, sound isolating anchors to the concrete. There will be a bar in the back and 2 rows of 3 in front of that. I am planning to do 7.2.4 with the following equipment:

Projector:
Sony VPL-HW45ES

Receiver/Amps:
Denon AVR-X6300H
iNuke 3000DSP

Speakers:
LCR - Polk Audio Monitor60 Series I
Side/Rear - Klipsch PRO 6800 80W 2-Way In-Wall Home Audio Speaker
Height - Klipsch PRO 6800 80W 2-Way In-Ceiling Home Audio Speaker
2 - DIY 15" Dayton Ultimax in 10 ft^3 ported box

I am planning to do 2 layers of rock all around, Is that a waste since there will be a 8'x7' opening in the back of the room that won't seal air tight? I plan to do blow in insulation above the room, as I have about 28" of space above. I am going to do full backer boxes on all in wall speakers with 3/4 mdf and another layer of sheetrock and potentially dynamat, or something like it. I want to isolate the room from upstairs as much as possible without throwing away money because of the opening. We don't have any bedrooms on the main level, so I am not overly concerned.
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post #2 of 123 Old 10-04-2016, 11:00 AM
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I would do the best job possible on the room.

Yes, I'm cringing-- but your theater, your rules. At least if you did the entire room, you could always change the doors later if you find them to be a problem.

How are you going to get onto the riser? I assume the barn doors are the rear of the theater. I would consider bringing the floor level across from the landing and into the theater. That way you enter the theater at the riser height.

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post #3 of 123 Old 10-04-2016, 11:09 AM - Thread Starter
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I would do the best job possible on the room.

Yes, I'm cringing-- but your theater, your rules. At least if you did the entire room, you could always change the doors later if you find them to be a problem.

How are you going to get onto the riser? I assume the barn doors are the rear of the theater. I would consider bringing the floor level across from the landing and into the theater. That way you enter the theater at the riser height.

Tim
The barn door will be 26 inches off the ground, or at the height of the landing you can see in the pictures. It will have a railing across it. The doors are literally just to open up the space for entertaining. The entrance to the theater is at the height of the landing and that height will go across the back of the theater for the bar. The second row of seats will be 2 steps down and the front row will be 2 more down at ground level. Does that make sense? I have drawings, but not handy.

Also, your point of filling in the space later if we decide it doesn't work is exactly what I was thinking.
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post #4 of 123 Old 10-04-2016, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by jessewendt View Post
The barn door will be 26 inches off the ground, or at the height of the landing you can see in the pictures. It will have a railing across it. The doors are literally just to open up the space for entertaining. The entrance to the theater is at the height of the landing and that height will go across the back of the theater for the bar. The second row of seats will be 2 steps down and the front row will be 2 more down at ground level. Does that make sense? I have drawings, but not handy.

Also, your point of filling in the space later if we decide it doesn't work is exactly what I was thinking.
Yes, makes sense. Are the barn doors the entrance? I see another opening framed. 3 rows is ambitious for 23'. Post the plans when you get a chance.

Tim
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post #5 of 123 Old 10-04-2016, 11:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, makes sense. Are the barn doors the entrance? I see another opening framed. 3 rows is ambitious for 23'. Post the plans when you get a chance.

Tim
The other opening(36" door) is the access. The barn doors are only an opening. The back row will be viewing from approximately 17' and the front row about 10'. The front row is for the kids, or others. I know it won't be ideal, however kids won't care.
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post #6 of 123 Old 10-04-2016, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessewendt View Post
The other opening(36" door) is the access. The barn doors are only an opening. The back row will be viewing from approximately 17' and the front row about 10'. The front row is for the kids, or others. I know it won't be ideal, however kids won't care.
Ok, I understand what you're doing now. Spacing looks good. I actually preferred the 1:1 seating distance so I wouldn't write off the first row.

Tim
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post #7 of 123 Old 10-04-2016, 12:15 PM
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I worked on a project that had tall walls like it appears you will have, the builder didn't put in any horizontal blocking and the wall had way too much flex. I could set up a standing wave on the double drywall wall by pushing on it.
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post #8 of 123 Old 10-04-2016, 12:18 PM - Thread Starter
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I worked on a project that had tall walls like it appears you will have, the builder didn't put in any horizontal blocking and the wall had way too much flex. I could set up a standing wave on the double drywall wall by pushing on it.
Blocking is already in. My city requires it for any wall over 9'. "Tall wall construction"
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post #9 of 123 Old 10-04-2016, 01:29 PM
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Looks like a nice tall ceiling for a basement -- what's the finished height?
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post #10 of 123 Old 10-04-2016, 01:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Looks like a nice tall ceiling for a basement -- what's the finished height?
From floor to new lowered ceiling is 11' 7". Soffits are 12.75" lower. From the upper riser to bottom of the soffit is ~8' 4"
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post #11 of 123 Old 10-04-2016, 02:06 PM
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From floor to new lowered ceiling is 11' 7". Soffits are 12.75" lower. From the upper riser to bottom of the soffit is ~8' 4"
That is pretty sweet.

I missed the change in elevation in pic 2 initially -- is this an addition or a section poured deeper with your house build?
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post #12 of 123 Old 10-04-2016, 02:12 PM - Thread Starter
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That is pretty sweet.

I missed the change in elevation in pic 2 initially -- is this an addition or a section poured deeper with your house build?
It's a new build. As you come down the stairs we have a utility room, bathroom, and landing at 9'. Then there are 5 stairs down. The back of the house is all at 12' 3" concrete to floor joist. We are on a steep hill, so it was cheaper to keep the high ceilings, rather than excavate for footings and then fill the basement with trucks of fill. Regardless we had to pour the same amount of concrete.
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post #13 of 123 Old 10-04-2016, 02:43 PM
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It's a new build. As you come down the stairs we have a utility room, bathroom, and landing at 9'. Then there are 5 stairs down. The back of the house is all at 12' 3" concrete to floor joist. We are on a steep hill, so it was cheaper to keep the high ceilings, rather than excavate for footings and then fill the basement with trucks of fill. Regardless we had to pour the same amount of concrete.
What a great situation to be in! (assuming walkout as well). We poured 10.5' walls in the house basement and nearly 13' in the adjacent HT (below the garage) and our flat lot did nothing to assist the process.
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post #14 of 123 Old 10-04-2016, 09:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
I worked on a project that had tall walls like it appears you will have, the builder didn't put in any horizontal blocking and the wall had way too much flex. I could set up a standing wave on the double drywall wall by pushing on it.
Big - I may be mistaken, but did I read in some other post that you grew up in Hopkins, MN? We are in Minnetonka on Glen Lake. Our kids actually go to Hopkins schools.
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post #15 of 123 Old 10-04-2016, 09:31 PM
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Yes, grew up in Hopkins and went to the then only High school. Graduated in 68. moved away from the frozen tundra in 78
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23'' isn't much for 2 rows and a bar, at least if there's also an AT front wall - are you planning to have one?

Most people here would kill to have such high ceilings, tho.
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post #17 of 123 Old 10-05-2016, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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23'' isn't much for 2 rows and a bar, at least if there's also an AT front wall - are you planning to have one?

Most people here would kill to have such high ceilings, tho.
There is an at screen. Its going to eat up 22" There is no question row 1 is going to be close. I have contemplated removing the bar. I think the real question is how close, is to close to a 130", or 140" screen.
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post #18 of 123 Old 10-05-2016, 10:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Is there a thread that shows ideal viewing distances for certain size screens? I have been searching and have only found a couple opinions that seem to contradict each other. There has to be some kind of ratio that is commonly used like screen width × .9 = minimum viewing distace.
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post #19 of 123 Old 10-05-2016, 10:26 AM
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My home theater is about 22 1/2' long, and I have squeezed in two rows & a bar.

A things about my room
1) My front sound stage uses 'in wall' speakers mounted on the front of the wall (for sound proofing) purposes... so, my AT screen wall is less than 1' in front of the front wall... so, call it 21 1/2' screen wall to rear wall. I used the Klisch KL-7800-THX & KS-7800-THX speakers (I got mine through Direct Buy for a great price, but the AV Science folks, like Mike Garrett, had very competitive pricing)

2) my front row is about 9' away from the screen... I have a 132" wide 2.35:1 screen (I think that is right about 143-144" diag.), and I have come to prefer the front row vs my second row

3) my second row is about 15 1/2' back... I started watching from this row, but have since moved to the front row

4) when the door is closed, I feel like I have plenty of room in my bar row... but my door is in the rear of the theater, and one of the two swings into the theater and is 36" wide... so, my bar stools have to be pushed all the way up to open my door... your side entry should work much better for that

5) my bar row is actually on a lower riser than the 2nd row of chairs, given the elevation of the bar stools... and how close to the back row they are, they really don't need to be any higher. I might be slightly concerned if you are thinking ATMOS, that the rear speaker sound will be blocked if your Bar row is too high. I don't have Atmos, but have seen others reference this as a concern.

Looks like you'll have a great space.
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post #20 of 123 Old 10-05-2016, 01:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
My home theater is about 22 1/2' long, and I have squeezed in two rows & a bar.

A things about my room
1) My front sound stage uses 'in wall' speakers mounted on the front of the wall (for sound proofing) purposes... so, my AT screen wall is less than 1' in front of the front wall... so, call it 21 1/2' screen wall to rear wall. I used the Klisch KL-7800-THX & KS-7800-THX speakers (I got mine through Direct Buy for a great price, but the AV Science folks, like Mike Garrett, had very competitive pricing)

2) my front row is about 9' away from the screen... I have a 132" wide 2.35:1 screen (I think that is right about 143-144" diag.), and I have come to prefer the front row vs my second row

3) my second row is about 15 1/2' back... I started watching from this row, but have since moved to the front row

4) when the door is closed, I feel like I have plenty of room in my bar row... but my door is in the rear of the theater, and one of the two swings into the theater and is 36" wide... so, my bar stools have to be pushed all the way up to open my door... your side entry should work much better for that

5) my bar row is actually on a lower riser than the 2nd row of chairs, given the elevation of the bar stools... and how close to the back row they are, they really don't need to be any higher. I might be slightly concerned if you are thinking ATMOS, that the rear speaker sound will be blocked if your Bar row is too high. I don't have Atmos, but have seen others reference this as a concern.

Looks like you'll have a great space.
I looked at your theater. It looks like we are doing something very similar. What are the dimensions of your bar?

- Back wall to front of bar/counter?
- Counter Depth
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post #21 of 123 Old 10-05-2016, 01:26 PM
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Is there a thread that shows ideal viewing distances for certain size screens? I have been searching and have only found a couple opinions that seem to contradict each other. There has to be some kind of ratio that is commonly used like screen width × .9 = minimum viewing distace.


I'm a 45 degree field of view man myself.
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post #22 of 123 Old 10-05-2016, 01:28 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm a 45 degree field of view man myself.
Thanks Big. I knew I had seen this at some point, but for the life of me couldn't find it anywhere.
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post #23 of 123 Old 10-06-2016, 09:27 PM
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I looked at your theater. It looks like we are doing something very similar. What are the dimensions of your bar?

- Back wall to front of bar/counter?
- Counter Depth
I just measured...

Screen wall to first row eyes, right at 9' when reclined.

2nd row right at 15'2" when reclined.

Screen wall to Rear wall is almost exactly 22'.

rear wall to nearest edge of bar is 49". I think even with people seated, there is decent room to walk around them.

The bar is 19" deep... I could see a few inches less working fine too.

my room is about 17'7" wide, the bar top is 12'9" wide. the bar top is about 1 1/4" past the bar wall on each side.
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I just measured...

Screen wall to first row eyes, right at 9' when reclined.

2nd row right at 15'2" when reclined.

Screen wall to Rear wall is almost exactly 22'.

rear wall to nearest edge of bar is 49". I think even with people seated, there is decent room to walk around them.

The bar is 19" deep... I could see a few inches less working fine too.

my room is about 17'7" wide, the bar top is 12'9" wide. the bar top is about 1 1/4" past the bar wall on each side.
Thanks. I am literally moving furniture around trying to mock things up in my kitchen to determine what distances I want from wall to counter, etc. At least I can use your measurements as a starting point.
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Overview of plans

Here is a quick overview of what I am doing. It's going to be tight using an AT screen, but I need it to help hide the sump basket plumbing.

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post #26 of 123 Old 10-08-2016, 09:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Almost finished framing today. I am working on my electrical plan. What did others with theaters similar to my plan do for electrical? My plans for circuits are:

1. Dedicated 15a for Projector
2. 2 - 20a for Rack area
- AVR
- Sub amps
- Blu Ray
- Xbox
- etc
3. 20a circuit - outlets for theater space
4. 15a lighting/deadvent circuit for theater - Insteon Controlled Lights:
- Bar counter lights
- 4" cans in soffit over stairs
- Screen Wash lights
- LED light in soffit
- LED stair lights
- Panasonic FV-20NLF1 WhisperLine 240 CFM In-Line Fan - room and equipment exhaust to lobby area.


Is there a need for anything else? I will pretty much do whatever the best practice is, as I will be doing all of the work.

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post #27 of 123 Old 10-10-2016, 04:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessewendt View Post
Almost finished framing today. I am working on my electrical plan. What did others with theaters similar to my plan do for electrical? My plans for circuits are:

1. Dedicated 15a for Projector
2. 2 - 20a for Rack area
- AVR
- Sub amps
- Blu Ray
- Xbox
- etc
3. 20a circuit - outlets for theater space
4. 15a lighting/deadvent circuit for theater - Insteon Controlled Lights:
- Bar counter lights
- 4" cans in soffit over stairs
- Screen Wash lights
- LED light in soffit
- LED stair lights
- Panasonic FV-20NLF1 WhisperLine 240 CFM In-Line Fan - room and equipment exhaust to lobby area.


Is there a need for anything else? I will pretty much do whatever the best practice is, as I will be doing all of the work.
Another electrical question for the the electrically inclined. Has anyone had any issues using 12-3 for 2, 20 amp circuits? My only concern would by some kind of interference/hum caused by sharing a common wire. I have no scientific reason to be concerned. It just seems like something that could be a problem.
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post #28 of 123 Old 10-10-2016, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessewendt View Post
Another electrical question for the the electrically inclined. Has anyone had any issues using 12-3 for 2, 20 amp circuits? My only concern would by some kind of interference/hum caused by sharing a common wire. I have no scientific reason to be concerned. It just seems like something that could be a problem.
MWBC are pretty much a thing of the past.

Should you be required to put AFCI protection on the circuits, you will be forced to buy a very expensive dual pole circuit breaker.

Just run the two separate runs of 12-2. I've been screwed by the MWBC problem in the past when an inspector wanted AFCI. I ended up just putting them on the same CB.

Tim
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post #29 of 123 Old 10-10-2016, 05:08 PM - Thread Starter
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MWBC are pretty much a thing of the past.

Should you be required to put AFCI protection on the circuits, you will be forced to buy a very expensive dual pole circuit breaker.

Just run the two separate runs of 12-2. I've been screwed by the MWBC problem in the past when an inspector wanted AFCI. I ended up just putting them on the same CB.

Tim
I was just ordering my AFCI breakers and the thought hadn't even crossed my mind. You are absolutely correct. 2 runs it is.
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post #30 of 123 Old 10-10-2016, 09:14 PM - Thread Starter
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I finished up with all of the framing tonight and put in a couple of sheets of rock behind where my risers are going. I will be framing my risers this weekend. I am limited on room, so I am just trying to knock out any of the big items I can and keep large items to a minimum. I honestly don't know how I am going to get all the sheetrock around the house and down the hill if it snows before I am ready for delivery. I am also finishing the rest of the basement, which includes a bar/sitting area and a large bathroom.

I had some help tonight the boy helped insulate and install the sheetrock. Only 12 years old and already understands the importance of decoupling walls, insulation, and green glue.

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Last edited by jessewendt; 10-10-2016 at 09:18 PM.
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