"Better Late Than Never" Build Thread... - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 174 Old 10-26-2016, 09:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cdy2179 View Post
The Sonomas are about a year old now and just like the day we got them. My whole family uses the room a few times a week with teenage girls using it daily. The Leather Gel is great. If money is tight get it.. if not get top grain. I didn't want to drop another grand for the upgrade.

My only gripe is the usb/control module gives off light and in a dark room it's bright. I installed USB covers and I need to paint around the power buttons to kill all the light.
Thanks for the info! I don't want to drop another grand for top grain either...

Maybe I am being overly confident, but I suspect I can fix the LED brightness. I have seen what you can do, I bet you can fix it as well.
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post #62 of 174 Old 10-26-2016, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Spyderturbo007 View Post
Perfect. Thank you. Oddly enough I have the same jigsaw and the same blades.

I think this is the first time I'm doing something different and don't need to go buy a new tool. Not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing.
I am sure. That is bad. Every new project requires at least 1 new tool!
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post #63 of 174 Old 10-26-2016, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhermsmeyer View Post
Thanks for the info! I don't want to drop another grand for top grain either...

Maybe I am being overly confident, but I suspect I can fix the LED brightness. I have seen what you can do, I bet you can fix it as well.
I don't use the LEDs as it's a gimmick IMO. My issue is the lighted button/usb module, there is no way to turn them off or dim them. But yes it can be remedied, usb plugs and paint over the lighted trim around the buttons. I wonder if I could take it apart and disable the led behind it...Hmmm
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post #64 of 174 Old 10-30-2016, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
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I wonder if I could take it apart and disable the led behind it...Hmmm
Yeah, I was wondering the same thing. When I get that far, I will post anything I happen to learn.
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post #65 of 174 Old 10-30-2016, 11:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Panel Moulding & Screen

Minor update.

Got the column opening frames built and installed. I had a frame jig, but I ended up not using it. It was faster to just cut the 45s and glue and brad nail them. I had no issues with the frames being out of square using this method.

One tip, the first 4 frames I made were not lining up well. Turns out, when I bought the panel moulding, 2 of the pieces were slightly different than the rest. Of course, I didn't notice this, and my first 4 frames mixed the different profiles...

So when you buy your trim, make sure all the pieces are the same (mine had identifying grooves on the backside that were different).

Also, the screen is up temporarily. Initial testing looks great, but we haven't watched a full movie on it yet.
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post #66 of 174 Old 10-31-2016, 06:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I just pulled the trigger on materials I need for subs:

- 1 iNUKE NU6000DSP
- 2 RSS460HO-4 18"

I will be building a couple Cyclops enclosures (thanks to @LTD02 for a great design) which will fit nicely behind my screen.

I will finish the subs and get them situated before I build the cabinet under the screen (I don't relish the thought of trying to lift these over that cabinet without breaking something). In case you are wondering how I plan to get them out, I am with you... I just hope I don't ever have to do that...

Meanwhile, I will start prepping for paint and painting, so probably not much progress for a while...
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post #67 of 174 Old 10-31-2016, 06:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Carpet?

Also, we found some carpet we both like at Home Depot. There is a soft black version of the carpet you see in the following picture.



You can see what the black version looks like on the Kraus site: here

Thoughts?
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post #68 of 174 Old 10-31-2016, 08:04 PM
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Believe I actually saw that same carpet. It looks nice, I just didn't think it felt that great.

My build thread: The Unprofessional Build
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post #69 of 174 Old 10-31-2016, 08:36 PM
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Believe I actually saw that same carpet. It looks nice, I just didn't think it felt that great.
I had the exact same thought process when looking for carpet... right up until my wife asked me just how many times I was planning on sitting on the floor. Uh... maybe never? So why does it matter how soft the carpet is? Er... I guess it doesn't?

Thus the carpet I ended up ordering is actually intended for offices and is so flat that you could easily roll an office chair over it. I wouldn't want to sit on it for long but as my wife predicted, I don't on any regular basis. And it looks great.
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post #70 of 174 Old 10-31-2016, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by granroth View Post
I had the exact same thought process when looking for carpet... right up until my wife asked me just how many times I was planning on sitting on the floor. Uh... maybe never? So why does it matter how soft the carpet is? Er... I guess it doesn't?

Thus the carpet I ended up ordering is actually intended for offices and is so flat that you could easily roll an office chair over it. I wouldn't want to sit on it for long but as my wife predicted, I don't on any regular basis. And it looks great.
I don't sit on my current carpet but, goodness is it nice to walk on. Barefoot for life! lol
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My build thread: The Unprofessional Build
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post #71 of 174 Old 11-01-2016, 05:08 AM - Thread Starter
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I don't recall it feeling rough. maybe all the lumber and splinters have skewed my perspective.

I will take a look again. If the "boss" is fine with it, I will be too.
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post #72 of 174 Old 11-01-2016, 05:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by granroth View Post
I had the exact same thought process when looking for carpet... right up until my wife asked me just how many times I was planning on sitting on the floor. Uh... maybe never? So why does it matter how soft the carpet is? Er... I guess it doesn't?

Thus the carpet I ended up ordering is actually intended for offices and is so flat that you could easily roll an office chair over it. I wouldn't want to sit on it for long but as my wife predicted, I don't on any regular basis. And it looks great.
Granroth, how is the thinner carpet attached? My next door neighbor is GM for one of the nations largest flooring companies, so I can get almost any carpet at his cost. He says, it's the padding that makes all the difference. One of the carpets that I really liked was thin like you are mentioning. Are tack boards still used around the perimeter or is it glued? I remember on Mario's Cinemar theater he used Masland's Quadrate that is really thin and he said his carpet guys glued it. Just curious...
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post #73 of 174 Old 11-01-2016, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by crankycowboy View Post
Granroth, how is the thinner carpet attached? My next door neighbor is GM for one of the nations largest flooring companies, so I can get almost any carpet at his cost. He says, it's the padding that makes all the difference. One of the carpets that I really liked was thin like you are mentioning. Are tack boards still used around the perimeter or is it glued? I remember on Mario's Cinemar theater he used Masland's Quadrate that is really thin and he said his carpet guys glued it. Just curious...
In my case, the carpet is made of up tiles that are glued down with no external padding at all. Most office carpet comes in tiles since it's easier to replace out damaged bits.

I can't say that tiles were precisely my first choice. It was more that I was looking for a fairly specific "feel" or look to the carpet and had a very frustrating and fruitless time finding that feel in any residential carpet. It took searching in the commercial realm to finally find a match.

Now, I was at least a little bit happy to see that they were tiles if only because I'm building my theater from a somewhat extreme DIY perspective and doing the carpet myself would be a DIY step that most people don't do. But then it turns out that if you buy commercial carpet, that you aren't given the choice to install it yourself -- the installation is literally included as part of the price and it's not possible to separate that out.

I do like the look of my carpet and don't really care about the lack of padding from a comfort point of view... but there is a mild issue that I also don't get the accidental acoustic control from the carpet that most theaters get. That is, the carpet padding in most typical theaters has enough absorption material to make a measurable impact in sound reflections and the like and you get that "for free". Having tiles isn't far off from just having a hardwood floor or similar -- it's all reflections with very little absorption. Not a big deal, but it is a thing.
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post #74 of 174 Old 11-01-2016, 11:22 AM
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I also had a hard time finding carpet I liked that wasn't a tile. I really wanted padding for acoustics and the soft feel as we walk "shoes off" on all carpet and the kids often have sleepovers and hang out on floor. I finally found the commercial look in a residential reasonable priced style carpet and we love it. Very soft.

here's a good shot of it that shows the pattern although it's more grey as seen in my thumbnail.

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post #75 of 174 Old 11-01-2016, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
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I also had a hard time finding carpet I liked that wasn't a tile. I really wanted padding for acoustics and the soft feel as we walk "shoes off" on all carpet and the kids often have sleepovers and hang out on floor. I finally found the commercial look in a residential reasonable priced style carpet and we love it. Very soft.

here's a good shot of it that shows the pattern although it's more grey as seen in my thumbnail.
That looks great! Where did you get it?
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post #76 of 174 Old 11-01-2016, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Fabric Cut List

Any serious flaws with this plan? Looks like I need at least 25 yards...

I realize the numbers are meaningless to everyone but me, so I am mostly interested in how much extra you guys bought. I remember Mario saying that manufacturers allow a certain number of flaws...

I figure I have plenty flannel, but I only have enough aquamarine to replace 2 flawed panels...

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post #77 of 174 Old 11-02-2016, 12:28 AM
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The only thing I would question is, how accurately can you cut the material? Seems like you have about one inch 'spare' cutting out the panels - I've never cut large swathes of material, so I don't know how easy or difficult it is to cut that accurately.

Actually, another question, how much extra have you allowed on each panel to wrap the material around the frame? So, say your 16x45 panels, are they actually 12x41s, or some other size?

Can't really help with how much extra you actually need, but whenever I've done stuff like laying laminate flooring, the advice has been to allow 10-15% wastage - I'd see that as a starting point myself, particularly taking my lack of experience into account.
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post #78 of 174 Old 11-02-2016, 04:48 AM
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Any serious flaws with this plan? Looks like I need at least 25 yards...

I realize the numbers are meaningless to everyone but me, so I am mostly interested in how much extra you guys bought. I remember Mario saying that manufacturers allow a certain number of flaws...

I figure I have plenty flannel, but I only have enough aquamarine to replace 2 flawed panels...

I bought 25 yards and have probably 4 yards left over. Room is 16x20
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post #79 of 174 Old 11-02-2016, 04:49 AM
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That looks great! Where did you get it?
Here's a copy and paste from my build thread.

Lowe's had like $90 install price as well, spanked all the other bids.





It's hard to get a good pic of the carpet but this is close.


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post #80 of 174 Old 11-02-2016, 06:00 PM - Thread Starter
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The only thing I would question is, how accurately can you cut the material? Seems like you have about one inch 'spare' cutting out the panels - I've never cut large swathes of material, so I don't know how easy or difficult it is to cut that accurately.

Actually, another question, how much extra have you allowed on each panel to wrap the material around the frame? So, say your 16x45 panels, are they actually 12x41s, or some other size?

Can't really help with how much extra you actually need, but whenever I've done stuff like laying laminate flooring, the advice has been to allow 10-15% wastage - I'd see that as a starting point myself, particularly taking my lack of experience into account.
I haven't a clue how well I can cut fabric... I recall seeing once that you mark the fabric with a piece of chalk (straight edge) and then cut it with scissors? I can't imagine being horribly off with this approach... I also remember reading about a pizza cutter looking device to cut fabric. I guess I need to do some research...

Yes, exactly, I planned for some excess. For example, where I listed 16x45 for that first gray panel, the actual visible portion is 12x36. Fabric panels of this type will be stapled to the back of the panel moulding frames that I built for the column openings. I have even more excess on the aquamarine fabric panels, which have to wrap a frame.
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post #81 of 174 Old 11-02-2016, 06:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's a copy and paste from my build thread.
Thanks for the info!

We are gonna try and hit up Lowes this weekend, and a couple carpet stores I found nearby.
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post #82 of 174 Old 11-02-2016, 06:18 PM
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I haven't a clue how well I can cut fabric... I recall seeing once that you mark the fabric with a piece of chalk (straight edge) and then cut it with scissors? I can't imagine being horribly off with this approach... I also remember reading about a pizza cutter looking device to cut fabric. I guess I need to do some research...
Just my 2 cents, but go for the pizza cutter. I initially just thought I would use a box cutter. The razer would dull after a pass or two and then I went to sawing which was a disaster, and changing blades like crazy. Then I tried really sharp scissors, this was better but more difficult on the large runs. Finally I ordered the pizza cutter. Man, this made my life much easier. I have a 72" straight edge I would just mark the two outside edges and drop my straight edge on it and then run the pizza cutter down it and it cut perfect. I have cut quite a few pieces and it's still cuts great. I do wish I would have gotten an extra blade. Here is the specific one I ordered just for reference....

https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Conto...s=fiskars+9521

Last edited by crankycowboy; 11-03-2016 at 04:36 AM.
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post #83 of 174 Old 11-03-2016, 12:18 AM
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See, it's posts like this ^^^ that make this forum such a great place.

I had seen people recommend the 'pizza cutters' before, but Cranky's experience of actually trying other methods first, before ordering the rotary tool, will save me, and others, a few hours of stress and angst in trying to use my wife's largest pair of scissors (which was my original plan)!

I've already bought my fabric, and my carpet, thinking I was a lot closer than I actually am (the carpet roll was actually a sale item, so I got it a couple of months ago - now sat in my garage surrounded by mousetraps until I need it)!

The last few posts do have me wondering if I have enough fabric though, I have 2 x 10m rolls - think I may have to draw out a plan like yours @jhermsmeyer and actually check, instead of just 'guesstimating' like I normally do!
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post #84 of 174 Old 11-03-2016, 04:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally I ordered the pizza cutter. Man, this made my life much easier. I have a 72" straight edge I would just mark the two outside edges and drop my straight edge on it and then run the pizza cutter down it and it cut perfect. I have cut quite a few pieces and it's still cuts great.
Great info!

Did you use a cutting mat? If not, what surface did you cut on?
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post #85 of 174 Old 11-04-2016, 04:15 AM
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Great info!



Did you use a cutting mat? If not, what surface did you cut on?


I didn't use a cutting mat. I had a small 12" one, but didn't want to have to shift every foot. Instead, I just had a 8" wide piece of mdf I used to cut on. The blade cuts the fabric without much pressure and it didn't seem to dull the blade too bad after everything I've cut so far


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post #86 of 174 Old 11-13-2016, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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LED Brightness Problem - Solved

I installed Luma 10 RGB LED strip lights under the oak bullnose on my riser and steps. They work great, but are much to bright on their dimmest setting.

I contacted HitLights, and they recommended a new controller and remote which cost $10 (44-Key Remote Controller for RGB Color Changing LED Strips).

This controller/remote allows you to program custom colors which are much dimmer than you get with the stock controller/remote.

This worked perfectly! Problem solved!
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post #87 of 174 Old 11-13-2016, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Dio Cyclopes!

I haven't posted much lately. Been busy, and we may have watched a movie or 3...

I did manage to build a couple subs. I used the Cyclops design by @LTD02 .

The design is great, being cut list friendly, easy to assemble, and shallow! I used a couple Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" subs, and they sound fantastic with an iNuke 6k. The difference between these and my old/cheap 10" polk sub is shocking.

I don't have pictures of the whole build process as I had small chunks of time here and there and I was in a hurry. I did attach the photos I managed to take. You can't tell from the photo, but the port slots are mirrored, and point to the nearest side wall. Here is a shot of the monsters in place (160 lbs each).



I still need to do some research and properly configure my iNUKE, but this is how I have it setup for now (based on some quick googling):







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post #88 of 174 Old 11-13-2016, 02:24 PM
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nice work on the stage and front wall.


as a minor bit, I'm not sure if the forward sound radiation lobe on the 1099 is symmetrical with respect to the vertical plane, so having the center upside down may alter the tone relative to the L&R (if you were planning to run it that way).

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #89 of 174 Old 11-14-2016, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
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I haven't posted much lately. Been busy, and we may have watched a movie or 3...

I did manage to build a couple subs. I used the Cyclops design by @LTD02 .

The design is great, being cut list friendly, easy to assemble, and shallow! I used a couple Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" subs, and they sound fantastic with an iNuke 6k. The difference between these and my old/cheap 10" polk sub is shocking.

I don't have pictures of the whole build process as I had small chunks of time here and there and I was in a hurry. I did attach the photos I managed to take. You can't tell from the photo, but the port slots are mirrored, and point to the nearest side wall. Here is a shot of the monsters in place (160 lbs each).



I still need to do some research and properly configure my iNUKE, but this is how I have it setup for now (based on some quick googling):







Holy cow, those subs are massive, and AWESOME! Much like you, I had two smaller Polk subs, so I'm hoping for a significant difference in output moving to the two 18s as well. Mine will be sealed, and I haven't ordered my inuke 6k yet, but I'm also wondering on a good source on setup and config of the inuke. Despite our setup being different, I will still be following along to see what you learn.
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post #90 of 174 Old 11-17-2016, 07:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
nice work on the stage and front wall.


as a minor bit, I'm not sure if the forward sound radiation lobe on the 1099 is symmetrical with respect to the vertical plane, so having the center upside down may alter the tone relative to the L&R (if you were planning to run it that way).
interesting.

I got a tip to flip the center to deal with the fact that my bottom driver is blocked by the bottom of the screen frame. I was going to raise the center half a foot (or so) to align the waveguides horizontally, which alleviates some of the blockage.

Is this the sorta thing that is only noticeable via measurement? Appreciate your feedback!

And while I am asking questions, did you happen to see anything wrong with my initial iNUKE setup for the Cyclops? Most of the examples I see posted are for sealed enclosures...

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