Wildwood Re-Deux - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 132 Old 12-02-2016, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Kino Liebhaber View Post
so [SirJayMZ;48271393] is ROXUL SAFE'n'SOUND an insulation material?
yes. you can just use regular insulation also. the real meat is in the wall construction and finish layers along with possible clip and channel if you go that route.
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post #32 of 132 Old 02-17-2017, 10:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Time for an update...finally.
It's been awhile since I've been able to sit down and focus on the thread, with finalizing the move from Alaska and let alone having to renovate the rental property in Wasilla in December (brr....) and to put it on the market, and finally enjoying Christmas and the new year.

I've done some additional planning and sketching on plain ol' paper (Sketchup coming soon). With all the great builds out here, I have gone back and reviewed my initial design several times and have made changes to incorporate some of these great build ideas into the Re-Deux. I hope i can build as nice as half of these out here, such as the "Better Late Than Never" build by @jhermsmeyer or Cranky's Cavern by @crankycowboy and of course the outstanding acoustic treatment work done by @VETDRMS in "The Learning Curve".

All of these builds are truly inspirational, and I hope I can even come close to replicating the success that they have had in those.

Below are some of the changes, quite honestly, based on the above mentioned builds.

Screen Wall - Inspired by the final outcome of the builds mentioned, and the discussion by @maxcat@wave.co.nz in here, I like the size/sound staging that will be achieved with a short throw room that Re-Deux is, along with the seating locations for 2 rows, without feeling like sitting in the front row at the local theater. Using what @BIGmouthinDC posted, this is what I hope to mimic, with some changes to the sofit/marquee.



Sofit
- Trying to replicate what @hifiaudio2 did in his previous build, and his inspiration from the Cinemar build, i hope this works out.



Acoustic Treatments - When it comes time, i hope to mimic @VETDRMS acoustic treatments inspired by @audiovideoholic on the ceiling and around the room.



Wish me luck, as I am ramping up into full swing.
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post #33 of 132 Old 02-17-2017, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
Time for an update...finally.
It's been awhile since I've been able to sit down and focus on the thread, with finalizing the move from Alaska and let alone having to renovate the rental property in Wasilla in December (brr....) and to put it on the market, and finally enjoying Christmas and the new year.

I've done some additional planning and sketching on plain ol' paper (Sketchup coming soon). With all the great builds out here, I have gone back and reviewed my initial design several times and have made changes to incorporate some of these great build ideas into the Re-Deux. I hope i can build as nice as half of these out here, such as the "Better Late Than Never" build by @jhermsmeyer or Cranky's Cavern by @crankycowboy and of course the outstanding acoustic treatment work done by @VETDRMS in "The Learning Curve".

All of these builds are truly inspirational, and I hope I can even come close to replicating the success that they have had in those.

Below are some of the changes, quite honestly, based on the above mentioned builds.

Screen Wall - Inspired by the final outcome of the builds mentioned, and the discussion by @maxcat@wave.co.nz in here, I like the size/sound staging that will be achieved with a short throw room that Re-Deux is, along with the seating locations for 2 rows, without feeling like sitting in the front row at the local theater. Using what @BIGmouthinDC posted, this is what I hope to mimic, with some changes to the sofit/marquee.



Sofit
- Trying to replicate what @hifiaudio2 did in his previous build, and his inspiration from the Cinemar build, i hope this works out.



Acoustic Treatments - When it comes time, i hope to mimic @VETDRMS acoustic treatments inspired by @audiovideoholic on the ceiling and around the room.



Wish me luck, as I am ramping up into full swing.
This is my favorite build too - the L/R outside the screen frame providing an accurate replay platform.

It's not a matter of my preference, it is simply this array will replay film with the extended width required as outlined in my post in the dedicated build forum. (Very uplifting to learn you have considered the evidence and Big's build example!)

And you can test it for yourself.

Try these scenes to confirm discrete effects linked to offstage character location (these are not mentioned in the original thread) with encoded effects to sync to them outside the screen frame:

Sanctum - the early scenes in the cave. Several characters are heard in L/R channels but not seen.

Despicable Me..when Gru sits on the alligator couch...

These are just two interesting scenes confirming the front speaker array is there to provide a window on the universe of the characters – but it extends past the edge of the screen frame.

Wish I could experience your system when it's done! Good luck!
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post #34 of 132 Old 02-17-2017, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
Time for an update...finally.
It's been awhile since I've been able to sit down and focus on the thread, with finalizing the move from Alaska and let alone having to renovate the rental property in Wasilla in December (brr....) and to put it on the market, and finally enjoying Christmas and the new year.

I've done some additional planning and sketching on plain ol' paper (Sketchup coming soon). With all the great builds out here, I have gone back and reviewed my initial design several times and have made changes to incorporate some of these great build ideas into the Re-Deux. I hope i can build as nice as half of these out here, such as the "Better Late Than Never" build by @jhermsmeyer or Cranky's Cavern by @crankycowboy and of course the outstanding acoustic treatment work done by @VETDRMS in "The Learning Curve".

All of these builds are truly inspirational, and I hope I can even come close to replicating the success that they have had in those.

Below are some of the changes, quite honestly, based on the above mentioned builds.

Screen Wall - Inspired by the final outcome of the builds mentioned, and the discussion by @maxcat@wave.co.nz in here, I like the size/sound staging that will be achieved with a short throw room that Re-Deux is, along with the seating locations for 2 rows, without feeling like sitting in the front row at the local theater. Using what @BIGmouthinDC posted, this is what I hope to mimic, with some changes to the sofit/marquee.



Sofit
- Trying to replicate what @hifiaudio2 did in his previous build, and his inspiration from the Cinemar build, i hope this works out.



Acoustic Treatments - When it comes time, i hope to mimic @VETDRMS acoustic treatments inspired by @audiovideoholic on the ceiling and around the room.



Wish me luck, as I am ramping up into full swing.
Sirjaymz!! Looks like you have done your homework, and have a great plan laid out. Thanks for the mention! If I was able to inspire you in some small way with my build, then I'm honored. I look forward to seeing your progress!
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post #35 of 132 Old 02-22-2017, 02:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Made a some progress over the past couple days.

Cleared out the game room next to the HT to allow for overflow of materials and parts. That was a chore. I think i need to adopt a new rule on if I don't use something within 2 years, no need to look inside, just donate the box... lol

Removed the sconces and listed on craigslist.
Removed the ceiling fan and sold it on craigslist this afternoon
Removed the carpet and all the pad. loaded it into wifes car. she's like , REALLY!? I haven't bought my replacement vehicle yet since i turned in the Passat to VW for Buy-back.. so we are down to 1 car. but, we got paid handsomely for driving a car for 2.5 years for free and they paid more than i bought it for. can't go wrong there.

Took up the first of two 3/4" sub-floor boards to access the cavities to add Roxul Safe and Sound and caulks all the crevices. It was screwed and glued, so you can imagine the effort needed. Only 1 more to go.. ugh.

Maid's coming tomorrow, so gotta clean up the mess so she can wipe down.




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post #36 of 132 Old 02-24-2017, 04:53 AM
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looks like a great plan!

do you plan to maintain access to the attic hatch?

the acoustic treatments reference looks interesting. as I am still fiddling with those, I will take a look.

good luck!


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post #37 of 132 Old 02-24-2017, 11:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhermsmeyer View Post
looks like a great plan!

do you plan to maintain access to the attic hatch?

the acoustic treatments reference looks interesting. as I am still fiddling with those, I will take a look.

good luck!


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Yeah.. so there is about 6 feet from the front of the existing wall to where i am going to build a new pony wall that will support the roof. that will move the entire wall back about 3 feet, and also provide significant room for the 2 subs and center channel behind the screen.
I will be installing that same door in the new pony wall.
Then i plan on building a screen wall similar to yours and @crankycowboy 's wall. i like how you enclosed the speakers outside the screen.
i'm limited on overall width of the room, as i still want my L/R channels to be at the 30 degree mark left and right. If i need to move the MLP forward to achieve that, i will, as it will also provide addtional leg room for the riser seats, and allow me to move those forward off the back wall. @Tedd recommends about 4 feet, but, not sure that I will get that. depends on where i am able to make the screen wall at in relation to having enough space for the Klipsch RF-82II's to be toed in at the 30 degree mark as well.

Thanks for the luck. I definitely can use all i can get

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post #38 of 132 Old 02-25-2017, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
Yeah.. so there is about 6 feet from the front of the existing wall to where i am going to build a new pony wall that will support the roof. that will move the entire wall back about 3 feet, and also provide significant room for the 2 subs and center channel behind the screen.
I will be installing that same door in the new pony wall.
Then i plan on building a screen wall similar to yours and @crankycowboy 's wall. i like how you enclosed the speakers outside the screen.
i'm limited on overall width of the room, as i still want my L/R channels to be at the 30 degree mark left and right. If i need to move the MLP forward to achieve that, i will, as it will also provide addtional leg room for the riser seats, and allow me to move those forward off the back wall. @Tedd recommends about 4 feet, but, not sure that I will get that. depends on where i am able to make the screen wall at in relation to having enough space for the Klipsch RF-82II's to be toed in at the 30 degree mark as well.

Thanks for the luck. I definitely can use all i can get
hey, wanted to thank you for the learning curve thread reference!

I have been reading through the massive treatments thread trying to figure out if I am on the right track (which is not very efficient)...

the learning curve thread seems like a good summary, and shows some qrd diffusor builds, which have always fascinated me. I might be a bit to far along for wall placement, but sounds like they might be useful on the ceiling too.

thanks again!
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post #39 of 132 Old 02-26-2017, 02:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jhermsmeyer View Post
hey, wanted to thank you for the learning curve thread reference!

I have been reading through the massive treatments thread trying to figure out if I am on the right track (which is not very efficient)...

the learning curve thread seems like a good summary, and shows some qrd diffusor builds, which have always fascinated me. I might be a bit to far along for wall placement, but sounds like they might be useful on the ceiling too.

thanks again!
No problem on referencing the build thread. @audiovideoholic provided some really good knowledge to #VETDRMS for his build, and I personally really like how it turned out. the build quality is very good, but also, having the support of somebody that has the know-how is always a huge plus for the guidance that is provided.

I read through some of the treatment thread as well, and you are right, it's so difficult to get that concise build design qualities that probably all rooms should have, but difficult to ascertain what those are with so many responses. It's good that we all talk about it, but there really isn't a consolidated thread that summarizes the knowledge base that I think you and I have been looking for. 'The Learning Curve' thread pulls some of those key elements out and provides a good consolidated items for us to quickly review. Needless to say, the build quality is outstanding, so it makes it easy to follow along.

I'm glad to see the "Better Late Than Never" build is pretty much completed for you. You are in full measurement mode, and looks like you have some decent results. I am not completely sure on what measurement software you use or the method, but I am completely fascinated by how far we all go through once we get these build put together. It's the technical side of me that loves the 'tweaking' part of this whole process, let alone the kicking back and watching a movie once it's all done. Man, I cannot wait.

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post #40 of 132 Old 02-26-2017, 03:26 AM
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I would not use linacoustic at the bottom of the soffit, you want a nice open path into the fluffy insulation for maximum bass trapping. Just use chicken wire to hold things in place above the fabric.

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post #41 of 132 Old 02-26-2017, 10:33 AM
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I would not use linacoustic at the bottom of the soffit, you want a nice open path into the fluffy insulation for maximum bass trapping. Just use chicken wire to hold things in place above the fabric.

Not trying to be a stickler but just want to point out that Dennis E. calls for linacoustic on the bottom of the soffits for some of his designs. Obviously there is an objective based difference between the two designs. I personally will be concentrating on the lower bass range in the upper locations in my room with heavy bass trapping as well instead of just lining the bottoms though. I'm hoping it will help free up my corners way I can get by with RPG modex plates.
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post #42 of 132 Old 02-27-2017, 03:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I would not use linacoustic at the bottom of the soffit, you want a nice open path into the fluffy insulation for maximum bass trapping. Just use chicken wire to hold things in place above the fabric.
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post
Not trying to be a stickler but just want to point out that Dennis E. calls for linacoustic on the bottom of the soffits for some of his designs. Obviously there is an objective based difference between the two designs. I personally will be concentrating on the lower bass range in the upper locations in my room with heavy bass trapping as well instead of just lining the bottoms though. I'm hoping it will help free up my corners way I can get by with RPG modex plates.
I am completely open to suggestions. I respect all opinions on the what I should do for the soffit. I like the idea of additional bass trapping, and yes, @audiovideoholic your are correct, I was infact going to follow the D.E. design recommendation, however, if I can achieve better bass trapping by going to a similar design as @Mashie Saldana , and or your design (if you provide one), I can and will as much as I can. I am only really committed of having the recess lighting in the soffit, as I am completely removing the sconces from the build. I am not a fan of sconces at all. The only other lighting I will have in the room is going to be the L.E.D. lighting up in the soffit.
I'll see what I can gin up in a new design for the soffit in the mean time.

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post #43 of 132 Old 02-27-2017, 03:32 PM - Thread Starter
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I did get some more demo completed today.
Used the shopvac as a leaf blower and moved 99% of the blown in insulation behind the screen wall out of the cavities on the floor into another part of the attic. That was easier than i thought it was going to be.

32 inches and 80 inches up from the floor, i made a cut in the drywall with a battery circular saw at right around 1/2" deep. On man did that create some dust. The maid just came this last Thursday, and now all the floors in the house have a slight dust blanket over everything. I guess i get to play maid now.

I tore down the drywall to investigate the installation of the Roxul S&S and the R15. I may end up having to take more drywall down to fit it in.

I also made a $1.2k materials purchase of all the insulation I should need. Suppose to arrive around the 12th from lowes.

In the meantime, finish up removing the drywall and plan on installing a bunch of the speaker wires. I still have to review the 3rd level attic and get an assessment of the backer box placement for the Atmos speakers.



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post #44 of 132 Old 02-27-2017, 04:00 PM
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I would have done mine more similar to Mashie's if I had known better when I originally followed D.E.'s plan but I also have a huge rear chamber of my baffle wall that is treated to his specs as well as my 2 tier/3 row riser resonator so it ended up working out that I'll be able to use some commercial units that are tuned for specific octaves since both my decay and response is pretty good already. If I were to contnue with his plan I probably would line the soffits and use the Quest panels but since I'm not using Quest panels the extra absorption won't be needed. That's the thing really. His design was for the "whole" system of treatments so since I didn't follow them it changes the entire plan above 60-70hz.

I will be using a mix of RPG and different diameter/shapes of tube traps at wall soffit intersections and soffit ceiling intersections as needed based on measurements now as I add speakers and treatments. It should be pretty easy to tame any issues with the commercial units but may cost quite a bit more than using a larger broadband system.

Hope that helps atleast a little.
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post #45 of 132 Old 03-01-2017, 06:34 AM
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If I had the space I would go for the MyRoom acoustic design myself, pretty neat but will need a lot of extra space on each wall and ceiling.

Here is their white paper: http://www.myroom-acoustics.com/host...hite_paper.pdf

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post #46 of 132 Old 03-14-2017, 11:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Status update. So the routine continues.
Pick a wall. Demo drywall. Smash all drywall into small pieces to fit into contractor trash bags. haul bags down to garage ever so carefully as to not make a mess down the dark stained stairway ( drywall foot prints suck). Put bags into CRV. Wait for 8 pm and go dumpster ditch bags in new section of housing development.
Roll up all fiberglass insulation, and tape into a cylinder, bag up and store into other attic space.
rinse and repeat.
caulked all cavities with DAP Alex flex caulk in all seams and corners.

Ordered and went and picked up the 1-3/4" x 14" x 12' TJI floor joists from local vendor.
Picked up the lumber to build support wall in the extension space.
moved lumber up into the room.
Layed down protective wood floor cover.

Purchased an Emotiva XPA-7 from a fellow AVS'er.

the re-deux continues.




Some plumbing, HVAC and electrical to deal with. oh boy.


looking towards the back of the room with the door and to-be riser location.
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post #47 of 132 Old 03-15-2017, 08:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Received an order this morning. (finally)...


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post #48 of 132 Old 03-23-2017, 10:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djcrawf1 View Post
Hi James, I am very familiar with Wildwood at Northpointe. We spent many weekends looking at homes there and thought that's where we would end up, it's a great community. We ended up buying in Cypress last year and then we unfortunately got flooded during the tax day flood. We just moved back in a couple of weeks ago after nearly 7 months. The good news is we made many upgrades during the process even though the house was brand new. The best upgrade was building out my theater. It's smaller than your room (approx 11'10"x 16 after wall treatments) but I was able to get 2 rows with a riser and an 110" screen. It's cozy but very comfortable.

I just wanted to let you know I bought my theater seats from the popular place outside of San Antonio that you mentioned. They have a great showroom but as an FYI they may not have what you want in stock. It seems like they keep most things in their California warehouse but not in Tx. I went with the Seatcraft Sonoma and it is a great seat of very high quality. The buying experience was very good and I highly recommend them. As you probably know, they are the owner of Seatcraft and 4seating.com which has received some poor reviews so I wanted to let you know that my experience was a good one. If I can answer any questions for you just let me know.
Hey there, thanks for the heads up on the store outside of San Antonio. I was able to make a trip a couple of weeks back and stop and take a look at their show room.
I read your post prior to going in and taking a look around. I would agree, the Sonoma provide a 'bang for the buck' all around seat.
Now that you have had them for awhile now, are you still liking them as you did when you purchased them?

Also, when are you going to send an invite out for the HT experience at yours?

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post #49 of 132 Old 04-01-2017, 07:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Progress Update.

I was able to finally get the 4 floor joists installed with joist hangers and braced. note to self, when ordering joists, order brackets at same time.
Re-routed the 5 electrical circuits. this was a chore... only zapped once.
Installed Roxul S&S in the floors and interior walls as well.
Ran 3 new dedicated 20 amp circuits into the room. only 275' of romex. 2 to the rack location and 1 to the front of the room behind where the screen will go, dedicated for the subwoofers. starting with 2x Klipsch 12's , but would like to increase that to a couple of more as I get the room done.
installed the Roxul Comfort batts R15 in the exterior wall. about 75% complete on that. If there is any enjoyment with working with insulation, i would have to say that is probably the best experience i have ever had. very easy to install. used an $15 electric bread knife to cut out the electrical boxes and making slits for the romex.

Had a little crash through the drywall. stepped through the drywall into the kitchen. slipped of a 2x4 plank board. ugh..

Next on the list to complete.
  1. Caulk all the floor items in the cavities with 100% silicone caulk to cut down on vibrations and rattles.
  2. meet with HVAC guy to move the 2 lines out of the way and get it into a soffit down the back wall.
  3. finish tearing out the existing old wall.
  4. meet with plumber to move the hot and cold lines into the new floor.
  5. 1000 other items to do as well.. keep after it.. sooner or later it will be done
works area is a little messy at the moment, but trying to keep it moving. i hate having to move things 5 times around the room.



Exterior wall with Roxul Comfort Batt's. and the interior walls with the safe and sound.


just a photo depicting the floor joists in-between the existing 2x8's that hold up the ceiling for the kitchen.

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post #50 of 132 Old 04-04-2017, 02:59 PM - Thread Starter
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HVAC guy comes tomorrow to give a quote.
Plumber on Thursday.
Removed the final pieces of the old wall.
fixed the light switches to an adjustable box.
cleaned up.



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post #51 of 132 Old 04-08-2017, 07:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Light Layout... Looking at all the builds out here and reading some of the 'recommendations'... I'd like to hear what the real world says..

do i have enough.. where else should i have some? if you would do yours over again, where would you add light that you didn't add at the beginning?


This is the measurements for the speaker layout.
by adding the additional 7 feet by knocking out the wall, i had to re-deux the floor layout.
What am im missing?
I put the TFL/TFR location at 40 degree's.. any thoughts on TOP speaker placements?


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post #52 of 132 Old 04-09-2017, 06:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Thought I would share a rack layout.
Not sure if you all do this as well planning for space, but I have an Omni RE18, (18u) and wanted to make sure I could fit everything.


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post #53 of 132 Old 04-12-2017, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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So going through my wiring plan and installing several runs, it dawned on me that some lessons learned by others was to install several more lines to the front wall along with a conduit for a just in case.

so i was planning to install 1x RG6 and 2x12ga. wires runs for each of the 2 subs locations at the front.
Should i run a 12v trigger to each of the sub locations as well?


Installing a 1x cat 5e cable and a 1-1/4" electrical tube as a JIC.

installing a separate light as well, as i have hear of others wishing they had a light behind the screen wall when performing maintenance/changes.

Getting started, I installed 2x 12ga. for the FR, FL, Center, FHR, FHL.

Additionally, i am running 1x 50 mono 3.5mm for a IR Blaster.


What else should i consider?
Current Wiring Plan

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post #54 of 132 Old 04-13-2017, 07:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Screen Size and Riser Height Calculator
Let me know if you can not see/dowloand the link above.



I put together a spreadsheet based on a couple of items I think we use as design practices.

Two different screen sizes. (16x9 and scope). I am not sure if the bottom 1/3 screen eye-level height applies to the scope screen, but I recall for 16x9 it's stated that the first row seating eye level should be 1/3 up from the bottom of the visible screen. Along with that, the second row should be planned to be at the 2/3 up from the bottom of the screen.
Based on a calculator from another site, i was able to put this into Excel formulas to calculate the riser height based on a particular screen size, but also, to determine what level the visible screen off the bottom of the floor should be planned for. I did not make the border of the screen size variable, but a quick modification can be added.

I noticed allot of screens getting placed much higher on the wall. I am not able to determine what the preference is for that based on these calculations, or maybe I'm not understanding the calculations that were used to make the choices for height placement of their screens.

Am I missing something here, or is that personal preference?

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Are those lights 3" diameter or 6"? I put lights back behind where my false wall would be, but none right in front of the screen - for me those would serve no purpose. I did eight 6" cans evenly spaced around the tray ceiling and then two dual bulb sconces right in the middle of the room length. The riser will also have led lights under the carpet lip. I think this is going to be PLENTY of light, even with the room being black/grey.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveCallas View Post
Are those lights 3" diameter or 6"? I put lights back behind where my false wall would be, but none right in front of the screen - for me those would serve no purpose. I did eight 6" cans evenly spaced around the tray ceiling and then two dual bulb sconces right in the middle of the room length. The riser will also have led lights under the carpet lip. I think this is going to be PLENTY of light, even with the room being black/grey.

All of the lights (little black circles in drawing) are 4" recessed cans with a stepped baffle trim.
I was going to install 4 'washer' lights to highlight the screen. i see this done all the time in the rooms, and think those lights will bring a nice array of light into the overall space. I'll have those on a separate circuit. the 3 lights circuits ill have are , 1 for the washers, 2nd for the main part of the room, and the 3rd to turn on the led strip RGB Led strip in the soffit shining up. I think that will also have a remote to change colors and all, but still would like to have a switch at the back of the room for a hard on/off. Allot of builds use the Grafik Eye by Lutron. I'm still debating on that or Insteon. I like the Insteon as I have a close friend that as a awesome system throughout his entire house. It would be very simple for him and I to spend a couple of hours to go through it and set it up.. so... im not quite that far to have to make a choice, but.. planning still..

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And what watt bulbs? My guess - and it is just a guess - based on my kitchen and living room cans - is that your theater will be lit up like a Christmas tree unless you have those cans on a dimmer. I wanted switches for my star ceiling and some of the other features too, but i already maxxed my gang box at 4 switches, so ill just use those little led remotes.
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post #58 of 132 Old 04-24-2017, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Progress Update 4-24

Progress Update

Water lines have been rerouted. Moved into the wall and out of the way.

Monoprice order came in. Faces plates and speaker wire received.
Completed the installation of all speakers wires, coax, and various cables into the wall and necessary locations.
Installed a dedicated UPS circuit up to the PJ location. This will be fed from the UPS in the rack.

Installed some more of the insulation. around the HVAC soffit location. This will allow for HVAC re-routing to be completed.
Finally received all components necessary to redirect the HVAC lines into the new path.

Order/received 4" recessed cans and trims.

Begin the backer box building for the Atmos ceiling speakers. found out the MDF at HD comes in various lengths and widths. all 2'x4' 3/4" sheets are not created equal.
should be able to complete these and get them installed this week.



Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveCallas View Post
And what watt bulbs? My guess - and it is just a guess - based on my kitchen and living room cans - is that your theater will be lit up like a Christmas tree unless you have those cans on a dimmer. I wanted switches for my star ceiling and some of the other features too, but i already maxxed my gang box at 4 switches, so ill just use those little led remotes.

Yes, all light circuits are planned at this point to be on a Insteon Dimmers, total of 3, along with 2 additional insteon inline power dimmers as well.

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post #59 of 132 Old 05-03-2017, 12:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Progress... Slow and steady..

All wires installed thus far. 1 last one to complete is to install a 12v trigger line to the front of the room, as a JIC.


Since the Monoprice order arrived, took apart the face-plates so i could paint them all black. PITA.


Completed the backer boxes for the Atmos speakers. Have not installed them yet.. Focused on getting the floor done.




After waiting for 6 days for a contractor to provide me an estimate, i gave up on them and decided to take on the challenge of re-routing the venting that will need to go through the floor joists and out into the small attic in the back. This supplies the kitchen with it's AC.. A must have...
I had to learn about what is acceptable and how you cut engineered joists and what size wholes can be maximum, and spacing, and so on... so after waiting 12 or so days for the materials arrive, i finally was able to cut the joists, reinforce them, and install the ducting, screw it all together, metal tape it, and then paint mastic all over the seams, and wrap insulation around it. I was finally ready to move onto installing Roxul S&S into the floor was well..

Ok, plain and simple.. When you see an insulated room, i have a new found respect for those guys that completed that.
It was so ITCHY!!! whether it's regular fiberglass batt's or whatever, it just sucks.. So kudo's to all those out there that have done their rooms and dealt with the insulation.



Whew, at least the floor is finally installed..


Next task to get the HVAC lines out of the way and frame up the sofit around them. Parts are in hand..

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post #60 of 132 Old 05-24-2017, 03:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Update 5-24

Took a 2 week vacation to the Great White North! Daughter Graduated Highschool and sold the rental property! Yay. Helped brother build an entire back yard fence while up there. went to The Fish Site and hung out with family and friends. Great Times!

Came back on Sunday and began the work again... slow and steady.

Moved the HVAC lines into the new location. What a chore. all the parts seemed to have work as expected, and whew.. it's finally done.

Next steps to frame around the HVAC's ducts and install the rest of the insulation.
Trying to get prepared for drywallers/mudders/and tapers to show up and get this room to the finishing phases.

Outstanding Items:
Install a 12v trigger line to the front of the room from the rack.
Install putty pads on outlet boxes.

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