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post #61 of 110 Old 08-11-2017, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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So after dealing with being sick for awhile, it slowed me down quite a bit, I've been back at it . Slow and steady.

One of the many little projects that always seem to need to be done as well. I cleaned up the distribution panel in the closet. We moved into the house over a year ago, and the wiring just started oozing out of the panel. Nothing was tidy. Needless to say, Comcast shows up, throws in the amplifier dangling from the cords and left. SO I knew at some point, I'd end up having to "re-deux" the panel as well.
Well, I finally corralled all the parts and was able to knock it out. The family didn't want to be without internet, so i had to strategically get it all mostly completed, right up until cut-over. Then there happen to be a power outage
Out with a behemoth of a switch (dell 5212) to a nice compact Dell X1008.

I was going to try to fit the cable modem and the firewall into the panel, but by the time it was done, yeah.. no..
Cross connected dual (2x1gbs) links into the media room. So should have plenty bandwidth from the NAS on the 2 Gb/s back bone LACP links

Before and After.


After taking some additional measurements, looking at what size of screen I was planning, I ended up having to 're-deux' the main HVAC line that i had already done on the previous post.
It was just hanging down too low, 12" line with insulation added up to about 16.5" from the ceiling. This is just too low.! . So After waiting on parts to arrive, I rebuilt it. this time out of 8x16 sheet metal. I know we're not suppose to use sheet metal in the theater room, but I figure the height space that i need that this would provide, would be worth it. the HVAC line is to supply air to the dining room and the kitchen, which are below the room.
So after building up the sheet metal, insulating it, and then hanging it up, i was able to finally frame around it to attach drywall to.


Still some more insulation to do, but at least it's saved me another 6" of height by doing it this way.


Installed the backer boxes and cut the holes in the first layer of drywall for the Atmos speakers. It was 130 degree in the attic at that time. Oh fun times.



Putty pads around every single outlet box.


Laundry list of things to do, but, I am getting so close to drywall!
I had a contractor come out on Monday to give me a quote to install the drywall, GG, and drywall over the top. Still waiting on a quote.

And one last Big Score!!!!
I picked up 6 Seatcraft Venetian Black chairs from a neighbor 4 doors down from my house . she had 8 people wanting them. I got em by saying I'd pay $200 more than asking price ($1800), and I';ll pick them up tonight. .. It worked. Luckily the backs came off to be able to move them. These are power.



So I am getting closer and closer. Inching along in this one man show.
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post #62 of 110 Old 08-11-2017, 06:32 PM
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All kinds of progress. Glad to see you are back at it. Contracting out the drywall is a smart move and should be an easy leap towards completion.
Good score on the seats. Surprised there was so much interest in specialized theater seating.
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post #63 of 110 Old 08-11-2017, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the Encouragement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post
All kinds of progress. Glad to see you are back at it. Contracting out the drywall is a smart move and should be an easy leap towards completion.
Good score on the seats. Surprised there was so much interest in specialized theater seating.
Thanks for the encouragement. It previously was a daunting task, when you look at so many things to complete, but at least once you get to the drywall installed , It becomes the the finishing phase.... FINALLY.

As far as the chairs, the lady had advertised on the neighborhood facebook page, craigslist, and ebay, (seemed a little excessive to me, but who am I to judge)... my wife coordinated it, and I scrambled to pull together the cash, but luckily, I had a winning streak at the poker table in Lake Charles, and was able to presto the mullah!
Now I am redrawing the layout of the room a tad, as the original chairs i picked were only 90" wide. These are 101", so I'll need to replan the walk path to the MLP with a small room.

Thanks for watching the thread!

Full link to all photos, if your interested.
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post #64 of 110 Old 08-12-2017, 07:07 PM
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Really liking your house layout. Looks like the perfect upstairs room location for this too.
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post #65 of 110 Old 08-12-2017, 08:15 PM
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Nice work!
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post #66 of 110 Old 08-16-2017, 06:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, For those of you who are familiar with the HVAC side, and with all the early discussion in my own thread, what are your thoughts on the distance between the rear supply and the return?

Do you think this is too close?
Do you have a room with them too close? what are the results? too warm of a room. No issue. could be cooler.

Front to back is ~20"
side to side is approximately 12"
and point to point is 24"

Thoughts?


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post #67 of 110 Old 08-16-2017, 06:51 PM
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If you could get them to overlap you would save $$$ by only needing one grille and one hole in the ceililng...

From my limited knowledge of HVAC it would seem they are too close and you'd most likely end up on the warm side. I think they are typically at opposite ends of the room. BUT! Don't take my word for it. I'm sure someone will give you the real skinny on this.

You missing Alaska yet?
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post #68 of 110 Old 08-16-2017, 07:04 PM
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Agree with Brazen, they really should be on opposite sides of the room for maximum effect.

"If everything is under control you are just not driving fast enough"

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post #69 of 110 Old 08-17-2017, 04:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brazensol View Post
If you could get them to overlap you would save $$$ by only needing one grille and one hole in the ceililng...

From my limited knowledge of HVAC it would seem they are too close and you'd most likely end up on the warm side. I think they are typically at opposite ends of the room. BUT! Don't take my word for it. I'm sure someone will give you the real skinny on this.

You missing Alaska yet?
I should have said that there are 2 supplies and 1 Return in the room. there is another supply towards to front of the room in line with the rear supply. So just debating on making some different registers.

I'm at the point of drywall, unless i decide to make registers, and have received several quotes to hang, level 3 finish the first layer (Tape,float, sand if necessary), then hang the 2nd layer with green glue. It seems like these folks have never done dual layers of drywall, let alone use green glue.
I am just kind of frustrated the disparity between different contractors prices for doing the same thing. At least in AK, I had a pretty good idea what things cost, and for the most part, the individual crafts were are within 5-10% of each other.. down here I have 1 bid for $5600, and one for $7500, all to do the exact same thing. This does not include materials, which is another $2000 on top, from the big box stores.
Even then, i'm not sure why a contractor wants 50% up front, when I have to supply the materials. seems like they could take my money and run.

So, you ask me if I miss AK yet.
In somethings YES!!!.. Fishing, Mountains, colder weather.
In somethings NO..... such as there little growth opportunities for jobs. no money in the state.. you know.. like in-flux ... down here.. there are construction projects on every other corner. big projects. allot of opportunities. I don't miss the dirty, rusty cars. even a 15 year old car down here looks shiney. lol.. I still have my truck and sleds at the in-laws. So I can always come ride.. I'll be there in December. Hopefully Petersville has some snow then...
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post #70 of 110 Old 08-17-2017, 09:34 AM
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I guess the best you can do is make sure the contractor is licensed and bonded. I plan on having fabric panels/wood trim on all the walls so only my ceiling will need to have the drywall finished to paint grade and also plan on using a moderate texture so the drywall won't need to be perfect. I've done enough drywall in my basement now that I actually don't mind doing it (sick, right?).

I hear you about Alaska. It's a +/- kind of place. We lived in Vegas for 4 years and I think I washed all 3 vehicles less than 10 times combined.

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post #71 of 110 Old 08-24-2017, 04:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Update 8/24

Made some update on the drywalling. Self induced pain of not wanting to pay a premium for it to get done.
Picked up a hoist for $115 on CL, so it has saved my back in that respect, as far as holding and trying to screw it.
picked up a Rotozip as well for the cutouts from a local Pawn $hop for $30. Such an awesome method of making precise cut's, in the 'right' location. My uncles old school method of measuring and making rectangle locations and making 'X' in the middle and using the scoring knife or drywall hand saw to cut out electrical boxes and hope it lines up like you think it should, and invariably comes out to the left or right or up or down from where you need it is so 1980's !
Rotozip and a drywall bit, so nice.fast. Easy to over cut though. plan the location and plunge. run the tip up to the edge of the box and jump over it. cut around the box, and voila.

One lesson learn though, when you put on putty pads, is not to have them all to the front end of the box, but to give some space for the bit to go around the box. Makes for a cleaner cut.

New Doors delivered as well. small door for the 're-deux' and the double door for the game room.

Shrinking the existing 36" french door into 're-deux' down to a 30" solid core door. Only went with the 1-3/8 ($152.41) vs 1-3/4 fire door ($494.30)like i originally wanted, but i figured i have plenty of GG and 3/4" MDF, and along with sound treatments on the inside, i can make it work with the cheaper door.









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post #72 of 110 Old 08-28-2017, 08:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, Thanks to Hurricane Harvey, I had to move the materials to get the cars into the garage. Nothing like having to move big, ackward, heavy stuff more than once.





So, could not go anywhere, so i did as much of the drywall as i could. 1-8 foot piece still needed at back of room by door. Changing door from 36" down to 30 solid core door, and want to make it as much of a single piece as possible.




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post #73 of 110 Old 08-29-2017, 04:50 AM
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I hope you are hi and dry.
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post #74 of 110 Old 08-29-2017, 05:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I hope you are hi and dry.
Thanks Frank. Yes, we are good. All dry, still have food, power and internet . We are in a newer subdivision. I have to give the builder credit, as they really did a good job with the rain water run-off and the retention pond/lake in this area.

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post #75 of 110 Old 09-01-2017, 07:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Update

August 30
First layer of drywall all hung. 90% taped . Cleared out room.
Installed a 19/32 top floor over the existing s3/4" subfloor, with GG.
Acoustic caulked all seams and floor to wall spacers/cracks. Brother-in-law helped tremendously completing this task.












August 31
My family helped out our fellow Houston neighbors with a 'Mud Out' of their flooded house. This is but 1 of 100,000 houses that needs to be done.
I don't know if any of you have had to do this before, but this was my first time, and quite honestly, I do not wish having a flooded house upon anyone.
When you literally have to throw away any item that was in flood waters, and every single appliance in a house, away out on the lawn.
Then, after you throw pretty much everything out on the lawn, you start hauling wheelbarrow full after wheelbarrow full of debris, drywall, flooring, trim, doors, cabinets, and throw that out on the lawn too. At some point, FEMA shows up with dump trucks and huge claw, and pick it all up and haul it away.
It's very disturbing to have to help people throw away their life belongings.
Please help Houston and the surrounding areas if you can.






This pile of debris is one house in once neighborhood. When we were leaving, house after house after house, street after street was the same way.
All belongings and just sorrow everywhere.
Please help Houston and the surrounding areas if you can. Anythings helps.

September 1
Made some slow progress today. Tore out the old french door. The wife helped with fixing the wood floors. Luckily the previous owner left 25 or 30 pieces of extra flooring in the attic , and we were able to put together a nice threshold into the new door way.
The crew that did the install for the 'floating' floor, glued the foam buffer underlamenent to the subfloor, and then glued the wood flooring to the foam.
Oh what fun to make sure it went together nicely. Ugg...

Additionally, framed out the small opening in the existing doorway. It was a 38" R.O, now it's a 32.5" R.O.

Put the green glue on top of the flooring we re-glued down with liquid nails, so it stays nice and tight to the floor.

Prepping for another 'Mud Out' tomorrow.

Sometime in all this kaos, I'll need to go and actually find a paying job.






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post #76 of 110 Old 09-05-2017, 07:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Solid Core Door Installed

After performing another 'Mud Out' on labor day, I'm a little slow and sore today.

My win for today.
I was able to install the solid core door, insulate the wall and crack around the door, and drywall it tight to the frame, and acoustically caulk around the edges.








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post #77 of 110 Old 09-08-2017, 06:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Update Sept 7th and 8th

Built new wall in game room. Try to control some of the sound coming from the game room into the rest of the house as well. The game room is open to the first floor, and the noise from the foosball table and the pinball machine would be a little much. So we decided to enclose the game room as well.

Before.
Beginning of Sept 7.



After
End of Sept 8.

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post #78 of 110 Old 09-10-2017, 05:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Update Sept 9 and 10th.

Sept 9.
Performed a mud out for a 72 year old flood victim, with a life time of treasures in her house. It took 30 of us to clear out the house.
It was an all day event... I took out the kitchen with the help of my son. The kitchen was built in 1965. Every single thing in there was hot wired. Oh boy. water, electricity. just kind of a daunting task.


Sept 10.

Though I am really exhausted, I decided to at least hang some drywall and insulate the game room wall. I hate insulation.

Pro Tip: If you need to cut Roxul length wise to fit into non-standard stud bays in the wall, use a table saw to cut to 1/4" larger than you need to fit, and it will cut it perfectly. So nice.
Beware of saw blade at all times though, as the insulation has a tendency to "hide" the saw blade. Then trim it with electric bread cutter for fine tuning.



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post #79 of 110 Old 09-25-2017, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Status Update 9-25
After the 'mud out' and the build to the game room door wall, I ended up making a trip to Seattle/Portland for a week. Multi faceted, taking son to his 4th year of college on a 5 year double major plan and buy him an early graduation from college car, and spend a good portion of time helping a life long friend with plumbing/electrical/bathroom fans/ organizing and overall home remodeling. After all, his house was built in 1974 and several things just were not up to par.

Upon my return, the wife was able to complete the game room overview wall on the front door visible side, and painted it. it turned out nice and passed the 10ft view test.
I complete the installation, insulated and drywalled it for the contractor to complete. Unfortunately i forgot to take a picture before it was installed once it was painted and dried, and rotated into place. Texture doesn't match, however, since we did an accent color, and its beyond 10 feet, you really can't tell.












From the front door, looking up to the game room wall.





Additionally, I was able to move forward on the install of the 2nd layer of drywall on the ceiling. What a PITA.







More drywall tomorrow... oh boy...

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post #80 of 110 Old 10-01-2017, 08:14 AM
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Looking really good. Even with your delay for more gg I'm sure you will finish before me. I was hoping maybe by the new year but now next spring will be more likely...
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post #81 of 110 Old 10-01-2017, 09:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Looking really good. Even with your delay for more gg I'm sure you will finish before me. I was hoping maybe by the new year but now next spring will be more likely...

Thanks for the encouragement. This drywall thing is a serious PITA.
I have about 8 more sheets to complete. Hopefully i can get them done today, as I had a couple of contractors come out and give me an estimate to take it through paint, and they wanna start next week tuesday...
@flyguy340 was able to hook me up with his left over GG here in Houston, so luckily i didn't have to wait all weekend and early part of next week for it to arrive from a vendor.
Gonna check out his completed theater this coming week.


Sorry to hear that your build is going to take longer. Hope everything is ok with you. You'll have the winter to work on it.

Here's my current status with the 8 sheets to go.




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post #82 of 110 Old 10-02-2017, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
So after dealing with being sick for awhile, it slowed me down quite a bit, I've been back at it . Slow and steady.

One of the many little projects that always seem to need to be done as well. I cleaned up the distribution panel in the closet. We moved into the house over a year ago, and the wiring just started oozing out of the panel. Nothing was tidy. Needless to say, Comcast shows up, throws in the amplifier dangling from the cords and left. SO I knew at some point, I'd end up having to "re-deux" the panel as well.
Well, I finally corralled all the parts and was able to knock it out. The family didn't want to be without internet, so i had to strategically get it all mostly completed, right up until cut-over. Then there happen to be a power outage
Out with a behemoth of a switch (dell 5212) to a nice compact Dell X1008.

I was going to try to fit the cable modem and the firewall into the panel, but by the time it was done, yeah.. no..
Cross connected dual (2x1gbs) links into the media room. So should have plenty bandwidth from the NAS on the 2 Gb/s back bone LACP links

Before and After.


After taking some additional measurements, looking at what size of screen I was planning, I ended up having to 're-deux' the main HVAC line that i had already done on the previous post.
It was just hanging down too low, 12" line with insulation added up to about 16.5" from the ceiling. This is just too low.! . So After waiting on parts to arrive, I rebuilt it. this time out of 8x16 sheet metal. I know we're not suppose to use sheet metal in the theater room, but I figure the height space that i need that this would provide, would be worth it. the HVAC line is to supply air to the dining room and the kitchen, which are below the room.
So after building up the sheet metal, insulating it, and then hanging it up, i was able to finally frame around it to attach drywall to.


Still some more insulation to do, but at least it's saved me another 6" of height by doing it this way.


Installed the backer boxes and cut the holes in the first layer of drywall for the Atmos speakers. It was 130 degree in the attic at that time. Oh fun times.



Putty pads around every single outlet box.


Laundry list of things to do, but, I am getting so close to drywall!
I had a contractor come out on Monday to give me a quote to install the drywall, GG, and drywall over the top. Still waiting on a quote.

And one last Big Score!!!!
I picked up 6 Seatcraft Venetian Black chairs from a neighbor 4 doors down from my house . she had 8 people wanting them. I got em by saying I'd pay $200 more than asking price ($1800), and I';ll pick them up tonight. .. It worked. Luckily the backs came off to be able to move them. These are power.



So I am getting closer and closer. Inching along in this one man show.

Love the panel work. Nice wiring and punch down. Can I ask what brand the recessed box is and the patch panel? I have a similar closet and would like to also get my CATV distribution and patch panel recessed like you have here. You've kept it clean and tidy. Well done!

Living Room - Monitor Audio Gold 100, Monitor Audio CP-IW460X center, Monitor Audio CP-CT380IDC, SVS-SB2000 X 2, Samsung UN55F9000, Oppo BDP-93, Playstation 4, NAD M15HD2, NAD M27

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post #83 of 110 Old 10-02-2017, 11:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Love the panel work. Nice wiring and punch down. Can I ask what brand the recessed box is and the patch panel? I have a similar closet and would like to also get my CATV distribution and patch panel recessed like you have here. You've kept it clean and tidy. Well done!

Thanks. Even though it's in the closet, it was so bothering me as I rely on it every day, and as you see by the photo, it was a finger challenge to get everything in there.

This is a standard 6" spacing residential cabinet made by Direct Connect, 28" cabinet, Model DCSP28LUL
My house is wired with cat5e, not cat6, so i opted to save a couple of bucks and went with 5e specific punch downs.

I used these punch downs.
ICC ICRESDPA3C 8-Port Compact CAT 5e Data Module
ICC website.


My CATV cabling is connected to a amplifier, and only provides signaling to 3 locations.
PPC EVO-1-5-U/U

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post #84 of 110 Old 10-02-2017, 03:48 PM
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Thanks for the information! I have a network closet, as well. Right now, I have a wallmount rack with a Cisco SG300 switch (28Ports) and cable coax distribution amplifier like yours, as well as router/wifi and cable modem. The issue is, I want to add a full size rack to that cabinet and with my wall mount rack it kind of uglies up the floorspace and limits where I am able to place the rack. I'm thinking of taking out most of the gear and putting into the full rack except my coax cable dist. amplifier, a 24 port patch panel, cable modem and maybe going down to a smaller switch to fit everything in.

I like that design and know all too well how hard it is to keep those cables looking tidy, so nice job!

I'm curious how your soundproofing turns out with DD/GG not on channel. I have an upstairs room converting to a theater someday that is 12ft wide by 26.5ft long and 9ft high ceilings and don't want to have to sacrifice too much width. Kicking around going with double drywall but not hat channel. Did you forgo hat channel due to width constraints as well?
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post #85 of 110 Old 10-02-2017, 07:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the information! I have a network closet, as well. Right now, I have a wallmount rack with a Cisco SG300 switch (28Ports) and cable coax distribution amplifier like yours, as well as router/wifi and cable modem. The issue is, I want to add a full size rack to that cabinet and with my wall mount rack it kind of uglies up the floorspace and limits where I am able to place the rack. I'm thinking of taking out most of the gear and putting into the full rack except my coax cable dist. amplifier, a 24 port patch panel, cable modem and maybe going down to a smaller switch to fit everything in.
They do make some nice wall mounts that have doors and side panels. That might be an option as well for you.
That way it would still keep the gear off the floor.

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I like that design and know all too well how hard it is to keep those cables looking tidy, so nice job!
Yeah, the cables are always a problem in small spaces. I used the sticky back cable tie pads and cable ties to really cinch them into place. Seem to work the best. I would have used some hook and loop to tie them up, but just no space.

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I'm curious how your soundproofing turns out with DD/GG not on channel. I have an upstairs room converting to a theater someday that is 12ft wide by 26.5ft long and 9ft high ceilings and don't want to have to sacrifice too much width. Kicking around going with double drywall but not hat channel. Did you forgo hat channel due to width constraints as well?
Quite honestly, so am I, as well as my wife is wondering. She's in support of all the sound proofing i could do, but like you said, channel was not an option.
When started, the room was around ~135" wide. I am no down to 133.5". The width is exactly the reason I did not go with the channel, as i think it's 1-5/8" need to install it per side, so that would have meant i would have lost another 3-2/8" of width, that would have put me at 130" uggg.. that's way too narrow... just didn't want that , as it is, every inch counts ...
I would advise though, if you do install a double layer, to install the first layer as OSB/plywood. It would make things so much easier and faster.

The size of your room literally is the same exact size as mine now. I had to remodel and take over some attic space to gain the depth, but I definitely think it was worth it.
I'm really kinda sick of drywall though, and cleaning the stupid speedloader caulk gun for the GG. uggh.. such a PITA.

I have a contractor coming to Tape/Float/Texture/prime/paint starting next week Monday. Yay... this will give me some time out of the room and still feel like I'm getting some things accomplished, even if it takes a ding on the wallet.

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Only 3 pieces of drywall to hang... then it's clean up to get ready for contractor to come and Tape/Float/Texture/prime/paint starting next week Monday.



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They do make some nice wall mounts that have doors and side panels. That might be an option as well for you.
That way it would still keep the gear off the floor.



Yeah, the cables are always a problem in small spaces. I used the sticky back cable tie pads and cable ties to really cinch them into place. Seem to work the best. I would have used some hook and loop to tie them up, but just no space.



Quite honestly, so am I, as well as my wife is wondering. She's in support of all the sound proofing i could do, but like you said, channel was not an option.
When started, the room was around ~135" wide. I am no down to 133.5". The width is exactly the reason I did not go with the channel, as i think it's 1-5/8" need to install it per side, so that would have meant i would have lost another 3-2/8" of width, that would have put me at 130" uggg.. that's way too narrow... just didn't want that , as it is, every inch counts ...
I would advise though, if you do install a double layer, to install the first layer as OSB/plywood. It would make things so much easier and faster.

The size of your room literally is the same exact size as mine now. I had to remodel and take over some attic space to gain the depth, but I definitely think it was worth it.
I'm really kinda sick of drywall though, and cleaning the stupid speedloader caulk gun for the GG. uggh.. such a PITA.

I have a contractor coming to Tape/Float/Texture/prime/paint starting next week Monday. Yay... this will give me some time out of the room and still feel like I'm getting some things accomplished, even if it takes a ding on the wallet.
Thanks for all of this great information. I'm super inspired by your post and progress!

If you had to do it over, would you still do your own drywall or hire out the full installation? I'm thinking about hiring it out, possibly. No idea what type of costs that would add, but I assume it is really expensive. How did you get the sheets of drywall up the stairs? I saw they went from the garage up... that must have been nuts carrying those heavy sheets up a flight of stairs.

Also, you mention putting a layer of OSB, but I was thinking that was too heavy for the studs, isn't it? Especially the ceiling? I am really thinking hat channel, but I'm torn. I have just shy of 12ft, like 11ft 10" to work with. I think I'd be dropped about 6" off that, maybe more, with DD/GG and Hat Channel. 11ft 2" is starting to make me rethink my seating arrangement, proper room to walk by the seats, etc...
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Thanks for all of this great information. I'm super inspired by your post and progress!

If you had to do it over, would you still do your own drywall or hire out the full installation? I'm thinking about hiring it out, possibly. No idea what type of costs that would add, but I assume it is really expensive. How did you get the sheets of drywall up the stairs? I saw they went from the garage up... that must have been nuts carrying those heavy sheets up a flight of stairs.

Also, you mention putting a layer of OSB, but I was thinking that was too heavy for the studs, isn't it? Especially the ceiling? I am really thinking hat channel, but I'm torn. I have just shy of 12ft, like 11ft 10" to work with. I think I'd be dropped about 6" off that, maybe more, with DD/GG and Hat Channel. 11ft 2" is starting to make me rethink my seating arrangement, proper room to walk by the seats, etc...
Depending on which clips you are using you should only loss about 2.375" to 2.5" with clips, channel, DD & GG if fastened to your joist. The standard IB-1 clips with channel is 1 1/8" tall and two sheets of 5/8" drywall is only is only 1 1/4" think. Green glue shouldn't add to much.
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Depending on which clips you are using you should only loss about 2.375" to 2.5" with clips, channel, DD & GG if fastened to your joist. The standard IB-1 clips with channel is 1 1/8" tall and two sheets of 5/8" drywall is only is only 1 1/4" think. Green glue shouldn't add to much.

I would definitely want to go with slim clips. That isn't too terrible. I was shocked at how much sound deadening I was able to get out of just a solid core door. I don't even have the acoustic seal kit around it and can game at night or watch a movie without disturbing anyone. Not talking reference levels or anything close or even a sub turned up at all, but just the different with solid core vs. a standard door is really a thing of beauty. Best $150 I spent when building the house, to upgrade from standard to solid core on the bonus room.

My goal is to have 2 rows of 3 seats with an aisle on each side. I think I can accomplish that with my depth of over 26ft and if I can keep the width at bay without too much sacrifice.

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I would definitely want to go with slim clips. That isn't too terrible. I was shocked at how much sound deadening I was able to get out of just a solid core door. I don't even have the acoustic seal kit around it and can game at night or watch a movie without disturbing anyone. Not talking reference levels or anything close or even a sub turned up at all, but just the different with solid core vs. a standard door is really a thing of beauty. Best $150 I spent when building the house, to upgrade from standard to solid core on the bonus room.

My goal is to have 2 rows of 3 seats with an aisle on each side. I think I can accomplish that with my depth of over 26ft and if I can keep the width at bay without too much sacrifice.
That's good to here on the door that is. I keep rethinking my plan and my wife would like me to have a back entrance with barn doors and I like it as well, but others said it would be hard so control sound. I am not to worried as the levels I am listening now my wife isn't complaining and nothing is soundproofed, not even insulation. The room right now is framed to be 14'x26'x8'-10", but am thinking of taking a wall back out and go 21'x26'x8'-10". I do have a beam running through my room that I would box in and maybe match on the other side to make it look like it was planned. The only thing then is I would want a bigger screen the the 120' I have now. I could live with the 120" for now till I could talk my wife into letting me get a bigger AT screen.


Do you have a build thread?
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