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post #91 of 110 Old 10-03-2017, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladeback View Post
That's good to here on the door that is. I keep rethinking my plan and my wife would like me to have a back entrance with barn doors and I like it as well, but others said it would be hard so control sound. I am not to worried as the levels I am listening now my wife isn't complaining and nothing is soundproofed, not even insulation. The room right now is framed to be 14'x26'x8'-10", but am thinking of taking a wall back out and go 21'x26'x8'-10". I do have a beam running through my room that I would box in and maybe match on the other side to make it look like it was planned. The only thing then is I would want a bigger screen the the 120' I have now. I could live with the 120" for now till I could talk my wife into letting me get a bigger AT screen.


Do you have a build thread?

I like the idea you have of adding width. That is my main drawback. I did redesign the room/space when we built the house to use this room for a dedicated HT. We changed the entrance of the room to a solid core single door, instead of an off-angle double door entry, and then walled off the back of it into a separated AV closet. I added a fully independent Zone for HVAC controlled over Wifi with two supplies and a return so that when buttoned up it will do well. I also had 8 6" cans installed so they can be relocated and a 20A dedicated Projector circuit in the ceiling at the back of the room. Also did dedicated 20A in the AV closet where I have my network feeding CAT6 all over the house, running a Cisco SG300 28port gigabit switch, router, cable modem, cable tv distribution, etc... and soon to turn into a recessed box like on this thread with a separate 42U Middle Atlantic Slim 5 rack and adding a new NAS to replace my old DAS box.

No, I don't have a thread yet. I have a lot of ideas and two little boys who build lego in that room and use it for gaming and to entertain friends. They are young and this space is really important for them right now, so I'm waiting and building out my downstairs system right now as well as tuning up the network and equipment rack so when the time comes and they are more interested in a theater room than legos and arts and crafts I'll start a thread and break out the sledge hammer :-)
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post #92 of 110 Old 10-03-2017, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
Thanks. Even though it's in the closet, it was so bothering me as I rely on it every day, and as you see by the photo, it was a finger challenge to get everything in there.

This is a standard 6" spacing residential cabinet made by Direct Connect, 28" cabinet, Model DCSP28LUL
My house is wired with cat5e, not cat6, so i opted to save a couple of bucks and went with 5e specific punch downs.

I used these punch downs.
ICC ICRESDPA3C 8-Port Compact CAT 5e Data Module
ICC website.


My CATV cabling is connected to a amplifier, and only provides signaling to 3 locations.
PPC EVO-1-5-U/U
Sorry James, one more question about how this is all set up. I also work in IT, so I get access to switches, equipment, etc... but I'm not exactly sure how to mount things in this box. I'm used to traditional rack mount gear and I already own a patch panel but it's rack mount. I assume I need to ditch it in favor of a Leviton panel that snaps into this box or something? Also, how did you secure the CATV amplifier, cable modem, switch, etc... that aren't built for these boxes? Did you use cable ties underneath and clip them so they are hidden? I am pretty dead set on migrating my rack equipment to a full 42U rack and popping my CATV amplifier, cable modem and patch panel into a recessed wall cabinet like yours and then just using conduit to bridge between full rack where the switch is and the in wall cabinet. Easy peasy. Just no idea how that equipment mounts.

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post #93 of 110 Old 10-03-2017, 05:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NuDLP View Post
Sorry James, one more question about how this is all set up. I also work in IT, so I get access to switches, equipment, etc... but I'm not exactly sure how to mount things in this box. I'm used to traditional rack mount gear and I already own a patch panel but it's rack mount. I assume I need to ditch it in favor of a Leviton panel that snaps into this box or something? Also, how did you secure the CATV amplifier, cable modem, switch, etc... that aren't built for these boxes? Did you use cable ties underneath and clip them so they are hidden? I am pretty dead set on migrating my rack equipment to a full 42U rack and popping my CATV amplifier, cable modem and patch panel into a recessed wall cabinet like yours and then just using conduit to bridge between full rack where the switch is and the in wall cabinet. Easy peasy. Just no idea how that equipment mounts.

I used self tapping screws through the slide holes on the end of the amplifier into a couple of these mounted into my cabinet. I did not use the velcro that comes with it, but it provides a standoff for the screws to secure to without damaging the cabinet.
ICC ICRESDCBUM Resi- Universal Electronics Bracket

As far as my Dell and TrendNet switches, I used the cable tie pads and cable ties to stick them to the above universal bracket, and cinched it all down. End's up being really secure in place.





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Last edited by sirjaymz; 10-03-2017 at 06:47 PM. Reason: spelling corrections
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post #94 of 110 Old 10-03-2017, 06:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Status update 10-3

Second layer of drywall and GG all installed. Yay!
Cleaned out the game room that is adjacent to the room, as the tape/float guy is going to be in there and didn't need all the tools in the way.


Current Status Photos



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post #95 of 110 Old 10-04-2017, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
I used self tapping screws through the slide holes on the end of the amplifier into a couple of these mounted into my cabinet. I did not use the velcro that comes with it, but it provides a standoff for the screws to secure to without damaging the cabinet.
ICC ICRESDCBUM Resi- Universal Electronics Bracket

As far as my Dell and TrendNet switches, I used the cable tie pads and cable ties to stick them to the above universal bracket, and cinched it all down. End's up being really secure in place.





James,

You are too kind providing all of this detail. Thank you! I find the structured media thing very confusing whereas rack mount just is how my brain works after a decade in the industry. Your pictures explain a lot about how these are mounted. Would still like to find a way to mount traditional network equipment into these boxes. I'm surprised you can't attain brackets that look like rack ears that plug into the box on one end and allow mounting of shallow gear to those ears. Maybe that exists, but I cannot find anything about it. I own a TrendNet patch panel that is already punched down and would like to set it into the structured media box. The Leviton equivalent made to snap into the enclosure is $125. I may have to bite the bullet but prefer not to.

Again, thank you and nice work. Keep it going!

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post #96 of 110 Old 10-07-2017, 10:15 AM - Thread Starter
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10-7

Status Update
Photo Gallery
The Tape/Float of drywall is ahead of planned. They started on Thursday, did the first coat. Expected to be completed by Monday now.
Long process to get this far, but's it nice to finally see it get to this phase.




While the guys are in the room, I started to rethink about the method of mounting the Klipsch surround speakers.
Decided to make backer boards with french cleats in them. Will end up covering them with GOM, but I think this will allow me to get a more robust mount, along with being flat and close the wall. Every inch counts, so i made them out of 3/4" and 1/4" MDF with some brads and glue.
I'll staple some Anchorage Black GOM to them to finish them off. I didn't like just the Rockler mount that Klipsch provides and I'm not able to use the 1/4" mounts sold online, as those will make it too far into the room. Every inch counts.





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post #97 of 110 Old 10-07-2017, 08:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Status update 2

Photo Gallery
All Floated. Texture on Monday.









Finished up the new mounts for the surrounds




RS-41 mount


RS-42 Mount



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post #98 of 110 Old 10-09-2017, 09:29 AM
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Looking really good! Did you have to build your backer boxes based on the volume required by Klipsch? Are your backer boxes on channel or screwed into the studs/joists?

Your room is almost there! I believe the "shell" has to be 65-75% of the project! Have you noticed a huge difference acoustically with just speaking voices inside the room and attenuation of sound outside of the room?

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post #99 of 110 Old 10-09-2017, 04:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NuDLP View Post
Looking really good!
Thanks for the feedback. The room is really starting to take a shape. I am so pleased to see the walls back in place. It makes such on huge difference on getting to the completion phase.

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Originally Posted by NuDLP View Post
Did you have to build your backer boxes based on the volume required by Klipsch?
I did not directly query Klipsch on the backer box volume requirements, and I probably should have.
I calculated the speaker volume at just over 1 cu.ft. for them. I figured since they are the CDT-3650,s with 6.5" drivers, i should be OK. I tried using this calculator, but since there were a prefab'ed speaker, I don't have all the info to plug into it, so I went with what i was able to fit.

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Are your backer boxes on channel or screwed into the studs/joists?
So each unit is around ~21" wide by 16" x ~6" deep. I installed them in-betweeen the ceiling rafters, as those were 24" O.C.,
with 2x4's that were about 28" long, This way I had flexibility to slide it to one extreme or the other in the joist cavity in the ceiling, depend on exactly where the hole was going to be located. on the face edges, i used a big bead of the GG acoustical caulk and sealed them to the top side of the drywall.
Heres a photo, was it's easier to see what I did.



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Have you noticed a huge difference acoustically with just speaking voices inside the room and attenuation of sound outside of the room?
WE have indeed noticed a difference. What really kind of put it over the 'really notice it' mark was when i finally installed the solid core door, and I had my jambox music playing in the room, and my wife comes up the stairs, and could not hear the music playing. we really understood the flanking issues that people have at that moment.
So yes, definitely. overall, I think as the GG sets up after like 30 days, the improvement is tremendous.
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post #100 of 110 Old 10-10-2017, 07:34 AM
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Just found the thread. Looks Great, Nice job on the surround mounts. I have a similar room dimension. I took far more shortcuts but am also at the point of a drywall shell. Will we be seeing stage construction soon?
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post #101 of 110 Old 10-10-2017, 10:12 AM
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So each unit is around ~21" wide by 16" x ~6" deep. I installed them in-betweeen the ceiling rafters, as those were 24" O.C.,
with 2x4's that were about 28" long, This way I had flexibility to slide it to one extreme or the other in the joist cavity in the ceiling, depend on exactly where the hole was going to be located. on the face edges, i used a big bead of the GG acoustical caulk and sealed them to the top side of the drywall.
Heres a photo, was it's easier to see what I did.



It looks good!

WE have indeed noticed a difference. What really kind of put it over the 'really notice it' mark was when i finally installed the solid core door, and I had my jambox music playing in the room, and my wife comes up the stairs, and could not hear the music playing. we really understood the flanking issues that people have at that moment.
So yes, definitely. overall, I think as the GG sets up after like 30 days, the improvement is tremendous.
Can you believe the difference a solid core door makes? Are you going to add a door jamb and threshold to seal it up even more? I don't have one but can only imagine the added difference there. Also, do you notice any sound traveling through HVAC? Can you hear sound in other rooms from the duct work?

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post #102 of 110 Old 10-10-2017, 12:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Just found the thread. Looks Great, Nice job on the surround mounts. I have a similar room dimension. I took far more shortcuts but am also at the point of a drywall shell. Will we be seeing stage construction soon?

Thanks for the compliments. I feel it's starting to look like a room again. Finally.
Yeah, the surround mounts were a little bit of a interesting thought process, as I really wanted the speakers flat against the wall, but was unsure how others have done it, so I used what others had done for the acoustic panel mounting with the french cleat thing. Plus, I could make it all out of MDF, as I have 6 - 4'x8' sheets of the 3/4" in the garage, mostly planned for the use on the soffit. I really don't like the Rockler, aka keyhole mount, so i wanted to use the 1/4"-20 bolt hole to make sure they were mounted the best it could be, so I made these. Glad you like them.

As far as a stage, I've decided I'm not actually building one in this build, as the roof line is sloped on the screen wall, and would impact my screen size/viewing distance. So reluctantly I am opting to forego the stage.
I had a stage in my last build, and ending up being a really cool feature of the room when it was done, but just no space in this room for a stage.

With that said, I liked "Better Late Than Never" build that @jhermsmeyer and the "Cranky's Cavern" that @crankycowboy s built with their front stages and how the speakers are on the 'outside' of the screen, but I don't think I can fit a stage and still have the head clearance to actually fit the 4-way masking system that I want to end up with. I planning on installing a large 1.78 AR screen to begin with, so I can at least get operational, then at some point, build the 4-way. I'll need room for the motors, etc. I'm still planning on making the same shape, and speakers outside of the screen, at least initially.

Please post your build thread, as it always helps us keep going to see what others are doing.

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post #103 of 110 Old 10-11-2017, 11:59 AM
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Thanks for the info, those two builds look great. I wish i had more room width, I feel like a narrow sound stage is my only option, as my speakers are as wide as my room will currently allow. I could chose to shrink my screen and move everything closer.

I saw you plan a insteon controlled RGB LED rope light, wondering how that will integrate, do you just wire a on/off switch receptacle, then control colors with provided remote, or is it hardwired.

Also saw you plan to paint the 4"LED trims, I cannot believe I cant find in black, guess its no big deal to paint.
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post #104 of 110 Old 10-11-2017, 08:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Can you believe the difference a solid core door makes? Are you going to add a door jamb and threshold to seal it up even more? I don't have one but can only imagine the added difference there. Also, do you notice any sound traveling through HVAC? Can you hear sound in other rooms from the duct work?
Yes, solid core is a must. Yes, I will be adding and automatic door drop and door jamb seal to the door. Also, planning to add a layer of 3/4" MDF along with GG in-between. Not sure I'll get to it immediately, but planning on doing that.

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Thanks for the info, those two builds look great. I wish i had more room width, I feel like a narrow sound stage is my only option, as my speakers are as wide as my room will currently allow. I could chose to shrink my screen and move everything closer.
I as well wish i had more width. That's what I have been battling through this whole build process. Narrow sound stage is what I will have as well, and want the biggest screen i can fit, so i'm debating on changing my design to not only get the biggest screen, and at some point, get a 4-way masking system, but also, like to keep with as close to spec as i can. I found it's very difficult so far.. (Atmos, SMPTE, THX, 20th Century, etc.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonsmithpharmd View Post
I saw you plan a insteon controlled RGB LED rope light, wondering how that will integrate, do you just wire a on/off switch receptacle, then control colors with provided remote, or is it hardwired.
That's exactly what I am planning to do. I don't have a hardwired outlet up there right now, but I have complete access to my attic, so if I need to have that, i can install in the future.
Lifelong friend of mine has a whole house wired and installed with Insteon switches and outlet controllers. It's absolutely amazing on what he can control from his phone, or even a 6 button switch, along with the whole programing of events and scenes. So, really, that's why i was planning to go Insteon, as I have seen it in action, and it's pretty freaking nice.

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Also saw you plan to paint the 4"LED trims, I cannot believe I cant find in black, guess its no big deal to paint.
[/QUOTE]
Yeah, you will for the most part 99% of the time have to paint the trims. Use the grill paint. It does well under high heat. LED or not, it's best just to make sure the paint can withstand the temperatures over time, whether other bulbs are used or LED.
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post #105 of 110 Old 10-12-2017, 06:36 AM
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[QUOTE=sirjaymz;54938976]Yes, solid core is a must. Yes, I will be adding and automatic door drop and door jamb seal to the door. Also, planning to add a layer of 3/4" MDF along with GG in-between. Not sure I'll get to it immediately, but planning on doing that.


I as well wish i had more width. That's what I have been battling through this whole build process. Narrow sound stage is what I will have as well, and want the biggest screen i can fit, so i'm debating on changing my design to not only get the biggest screen, and at some point, get a 4-way masking system, but also, like to keep with as close to spec as i can. I found it's very difficult so far.. (Atmos, SMPTE, THX, 20th Century, etc.)


I also am thinking of going wider on my build. Right now I am framed out for about 14' wide, but am thinking of going either 17' or all the way out to 20'-8". I like the 20'-8" the most because it would make for a big room to entertain for party or just watch a movie. The room length is about 26' with 8'-10" high walls. I have a beam running through the room and would box it in and maybe make conferred ceiling to blend it in.

Something like this.
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post #106 of 110 Old 10-12-2017, 07:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Only wish I had 20+' in width.

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I also am thinking of going wider on my build. Right now I am framed out for about 14' wide, but am thinking of going either 17' or all the way out to 20'-8". I like the 20'-8" the most because it would make for a big room to entertain for party or just watch a movie. The room length is about 26' with 8'-10" high walls. I have a beam running through the room and would box it in and maybe make conferred ceiling to blend it in.

Something like this.
That would be very nice to have a 20'-8" width! You can make a front screen wall to your hearts content. You would have enough space for larger sub's or more of them, but also, a larger screen.
Mind you, I am just at 11' 1" lol.

It look's like you have a nice plan drawn up already. I find myself wanting to change things all the time. It really doesn't become my plan until i put it on paper and buy the materials. Then I'm committed, other than that, I am running pretty fluid on this build, which is not where I'd like to be, but I see so many good builds out here, that I always look to see if that is something that I could incorporate to mine. Then that gets time consuming. WAF goes down, and my overall timeline extends.


I like the faux beam for symmetry in your plan. something about balance and the flow. I'll have to do something similar for the HVAC soffit I have. I plan on making the screen wall acoustically dead, which will take some lumber to do, so I planning incorporating a slope into the build.

Looking forward to your build.
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post #107 of 110 Old 10-12-2017, 09:34 AM
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[quote=Ladeback;54940322]
Quote:
Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
Yes, solid core is a must. Yes, I will be adding and automatic door drop and door jamb seal to the door. Also, planning to add a layer of 3/4" MDF along with GG in-between. Not sure I'll get to it immediately, but planning on doing that.


I as well wish i had more width. That's what I have been battling through this whole build process. Narrow sound stage is what I will have as well, and want the biggest screen i can fit, so i'm debating on changing my design to not only get the biggest screen, and at some point, get a 4-way masking system, but also, like to keep with as close to spec as i can. I found it's very difficult so far.. (Atmos, SMPTE, THX, 20th Century, etc.)


I also am thinking of going wider on my build. Right now I am framed out for about 14' wide, but am thinking of going either 17' or all the way out to 20'-8". I like the 20'-8" the most because it would make for a big room to entertain for party or just watch a movie. The room length is about 26' with 8'-10" high walls. I have a beam running through the room and would box it in and maybe make conferred ceiling to blend it in.

Something like this.
That would make for an epic space. Having that width with the length you can build in a screen wall and still have a ton of room, plus you could orient the space in a variety of ways. I'm locked in to one possible screen wall due to the 26' 6" length I have with only 12' width. I wished there were options to widen it when we built but we had already designed it to be above a garage and had to work with limitations there. I look forward to your build thread when you get it going!

Living Room - Monitor Audio Gold 100, Monitor Audio CP-IW460X center, Monitor Audio CP-CT380IDC, SVS-SB2000 X 2, Samsung UN55F9000, Oppo BDP-93, Playstation 4, NAD M15HD2, NAD M27

Dedicated Theater in Process - KEF XQ20, KEF XQ50C Center, KEF Ci200QR, NAD M15Hd2, NAD M25, Sony Playstation 3, Samsung DLP TV - (future projector), Subs TBD -
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post #108 of 110 Old 10-12-2017, 12:22 PM
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You're really starting to pull ahead! I'm still in the drywall phase (only the perimeter walls at that). I hope to start on electric soon. I won't be getting an A/V receiver until next spring. I'm waiting to see which way the next generation receivers will go as regards to Dolby Atmos and how many channels. I'm hoping for a 9.1.6 but could live with a 7.1.6. I got a feeling it might only be xx.1.4 formats though... Still, I am putting in 6 overhead speakers and keeping my fingers crossed.
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post #109 of 110 Old Yesterday, 03:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brazensol View Post
You're really starting to pull ahead! I'm still in the drywall phase (only the perimeter walls at that). I hope to start on electric soon. I won't be getting an A/V receiver until next spring. I'm waiting to see which way the next generation receivers will go as regards to Dolby Atmos and how many channels. I'm hoping for a 9.1.6 but could live with a 7.1.6. I got a feeling it might only be xx.1.4 formats though... Still, I am putting in 6 overhead speakers and keeping my fingers crossed.

I don't' know about really pulling ahead. Keep after your build. I know it's time consuming, and quite honestly, it get's mundane, but you have the right plan to purchase gear towards the end and see what comes available. Definitely you'll get the 'latest and greatest' then, with full warranty.

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post #110 of 110 Old Yesterday, 03:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I think I thwarted my progress, or at least future progress.
I purchased some GG from a local AVS'er, and I planned up some time with flyguy340 to check out his room. Let's just say it's now gonna cost me some time and money, based on experiencing a really well put together room, similar to Cinamars and Redstripe88 builds. Now, don't get me wrong, I do/did have a plan, however, after experiencing that theater, I am definitely going to install some the key elements that I was able to observe and include them into my build.

There's just so many different options for every surface, and you really may forget some of those things you like, unless you seen them in action, but also , at a stage where you can still incorporate them, not realizing you may have liked a design element, but did not include the provisions, time, research, $ and materials into whatever it is you seen and now would like to have.

So with that said, I am definitely still going with mini columns, but also, going to incorporate more fabric treatments now, whereas i may have not done them at all previously, as per the original plan. Also, now planing on the baseboard/trim LED lighting that others have done. It just looks awesome. This will completely replace any step lighting i had previously planned.

Also, taking the time to realign my down lighting from the soffit into the proper locations between the columns, as before, I wasn't too concerned with location , as it was going to line up pretty well anyway. going to take more time on making sure all the measurements and layout are more precise going forward.

Star Ceiling by NightSkyMurals is absolutely astounding. Can not swing it for mine, but, if you can, do it. I still am planning the VETDRMS design for my ceiling.

One last thing. Sourcing materials is always a challenge. If you find something you like and know about it, share, as it may help others locate said items in the future, and save allot of hunting things down time. Thanks Jeremy! I really appreciate your help.

Current status 10-16
Drywall tape/float/texture and paint guys are gone. whew. definitely won't be hiring anything out in the near future. ugg. What a mess. cost me twice as much in paint, as the extra gallons ended up on the floor or on my wires, or on my trim. etc...etc... all the places OTHER than where it was suppose to go.
Tape/float = disappointment, texture = acceptable, Painters = very disappointed. I have determined that I will try my hardest to not hire, nor recommend, any builder grade level craft again, without references. In hind site, I should have done it all myself. Lesson Learned. I'm not saying you can't find quality contractors, I'm just saying the ones I chose, based on the fact they were working on a new build in the new neighborhood i live in, and they were familiar with the expected quality from the builder grade, was not a GOOD choice. I won't be making a that mistake again.

I am starting the soffit now. found some cold rolled channel for the attachment, but it's 16 gauge, so it's going to be difficult to work with, but should be solid when I finally get it installed.

Went with SW6258 Tri-Corn Black on the ceiling. I will be sticking with that. The walls are current painted the SW7073 Network Gray, but, not please with the shade or grey.
Decided I'm probably going to go with more fabric wall's between the columns. Trying to locate some shallow 3d diffusors, as I would like to hide them behind the fabric. I still have a serious overall room width issue, and still consider every inch as important, but the added benefit of the acoustic treatments is well worth a couple of inches of width.





Moved the trim out and putting that on complete hold.

On to the soffit.

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