Wildwood Re-Deux - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 78 Old 11-15-2016, 08:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Wildwood Re-Deux

It's time for HT2.0, Wildwood Re-Deux.
Wildwood - a typical American subdivision.
The 'Re' in Re-Deux because the builder grade theater room has zero acoustical qualities.
The 'Deux' in Re-Deux as this is the second theater I have undertaken. Hopefully turns out as good, if not better, than the first.

135"W (11.5') x 216"L (18') 108" (9') height. Slope starts at 95.5" up to 108"

This is the Village Builders WentWorth Collection, Whitaker floor plan. Our house is the morror image of the official layout.
There is attic space on the back side of the screen wall that could potentially add another 5 feet to the room, however, would have to move HVAC ducting, waterlines, and add joists and rebuild support wall.
Left side of the room is the wall of the catherdral ceiling for the downstairs living room.
Right side of room is exterior wall.
Back wall adjacent to game room.

Plan A - Have 2 rows, of seating, utilizing a 20" riser with 2 seats and the equipment rack on the riser. Leave the existing screen wall in place, add RS&S into the all the walls, add wall treatments

Plan B is to knock out the screen wall and add additional length to the room to allow for speakers top be placed behind a AT screen. This add's significant cost and time, however, probably the best looking finsihed room. Addtionally, would add 1st reflection sound diffussors as well, up to 54" high.

Side walls are going to be torn down to add all speaker wiring and Roxul Safe and Sound (R-S&S)
Floor going to be cut out, install 2 layers of R-S&S into floor/ceiling, reinstall floor, Screw and glue, then add GG + 5/8" plywood

Riser - based on measurements, is approximately 20" high. similar to BigMounthinDC build designs that leverages Erskines designs. 2x lumber with dual layer of 5/8" ply, with GG. ports along back and side. stuffed with insulation. roofing felt on the bottom, isolated from the walls. probably will add a tube through it to allow for direct wiring from front seats for future connections into the equipment rack.

Door is currently a 36 in french doors. This is going to be changed with a 30" solid core door with addtional sound stripping and sweep.

Due to the limitation is side width at 135, and would like to be able to have a 4 seater up front and 2 seater on the riser, I am limited on installing hat channel for the walls, as this will consume some of the vital width space, and not wanting to sacrifrice the 4 seater on the front row, i am limiting the walls to only 2x

5/8" DD, plus GG. Not planning to install channel. The walls cavities will be insulated with R-S&S in the interior walls, and Roxul Comfort Batts on the exterior

Planning on a 14" wide soffit, treated on the bottom side with Linaccoustic, stuffed with insulation, with 3" recessed lights.

Mini columns, 3" deep only, sconces to be installed on the columns. stuffed with R-S&S. Give a nice 'theater' feel to the room with some columns and sconces. front columns are in the way of 1st reflection diffusors.

Wall treatments - From the floor to 54" high, will be treated with fabric wall frames with 1" Linacoustic. above that , just painted walls at this time. May add additional frames to the upper half of wall with only batting to fill in the frame.
Front wall will have 2" worth of Linacoustic, along with the project screen.
Back wall will be 0"-20" = riser, 20"-54" = wall treatment with Linacoustic, above that to add a sound diffusor of some sort. I previoulsy built 13 of the Skyline QRD diffusors for HT1.0, however, i was not overly impressed with the final outcome of them, and ended up discarding all of them. I am interested in some sort of 3D, polystrene, or some PVC style mold injected or 3D printed diffusors. Suggestions?

Paint - Dark Gray, eveything below 54" will be black. Carpet will be a dark gray.

Ceiling - Not sure if I am going to do a star ceiling or not. Not really sure if this 'adds' value. wow factor maybe, but that's allot of time for some light pollution. I'm getting old. Paint it one color.

Seating - 4-wide power recline. needs to fit in the space, so not selecting a brand. A well known seating company is just outside San Antonio, so I think i am going to head over and check out there selection. pick up same day, and drive back.

Rack - picked up a 18U Omnipoint RE18 rack from AlTex Electronics for just under 5 benji's. Should fit all the important gear.

Full Dolby Atmos, 4 speaker system. 11.2 speaker layout
Speaker locations L,C,R,FHL,FHR, FWL,FWR, SL, SR, SRR,SRL, TFL,TFR, TRL,TRR.
Debating on adding 2 more addtional Surround Rear speakers, as I can't get perfect Atmos placement specificatioin due to the door entrance into the room, so thinking of having multiple back surrounds.
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JAMES JONES
HT1.0 | HT2.0

Last edited by sirjaymz; 11-15-2016 at 09:02 AM.
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post #2 of 78 Old 11-15-2016, 08:54 AM - Thread Starter
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PP = Pending Purchase
OI = Own It

SEATING
* FRONT ROW: 4 (2x2 love seats) Straight Black Leather Motorized Recliners (PP) Update 7-26-2017 .(OI) 3 seat straight power recline Seatcraft Venetian's
* BACK ROW: 2 seats black power recline. (PP)Update 7-26-2017 .(OI) 3 seat straight power recline Seatcraft Venetian's


DISPLAY
* PROJECTOR - Sony VPL VW365ES (PP)
* SCREEN: STR-169110-WAB Silver Ticket 16:9, 110" Woven Acoustic Material (PP)
* DIGITAL MOVIE POSTER: 32" 4K - Custom Box.(PP)

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: Klipsch RC-64 II (OI)
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: Klipsch RF-82 II (OI)
* FRONT WIDE LEFT/RIGHT: Klipsch RS-41 (OI)
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: Klipsch RS-41 (OI)
* SURROUND BACK LEFT/RIGHT: Klipsch RS-42 II (OI)
* SUB1: Klipsch R112SW (OI)
* SUB2: Klipsch R112SW (OI)
* ATMOS TFR: Klipsch CDT-3650-CII (OI)
* ATMOS TFL: Klipsch CDT-3650-CII (OI)
* ATMOS TRR: Klipsch CDT-3650-CII (OI)
* ATMOS TRL: Klipsch CDT-3650-CII (OI)

ROOM DIMENSIONS & MEASUREMENTS
* DW2DW - 18' Deep x 11'3" Wide
* Stud2Stud After Remodel - 25' Deep x 11'4" Wide

* Front Row: ~10'8" (128") from eye to screen
* Back Row: ~16'6" (198") from eye to screen

EQUIPMENT
* RECEIVER: Denon AVR-X7200WA-HDCP 2.2 upgrade completed. (OI)
* AMP: Emotiva XPA-7 (OI) Purchased 3/3/17
* GAMING: PS3/PS4 (OI/PP)
* POWER CONDITIONER: APC RM2SUA1500 (OI)

* STORAGE: Synology DS1813+ (8x2TB, RAID5) (OI)

* REMOTE CONTROL: TABLET/iPAD/PHONE USER INTERFACE: iRule (OI)

* LIGHTING CONTROL: Z-Wave (PP)
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: Trane Z-Wave Thermostat x2 (OI)

* CARPETING- Pending Purchase once room is close to completion.

FABRIC & PAINT
* Paint - Sherwin Williams 7073 Network (OI)
* Paint - Sherwin Williams 6258 Tricorn Black (OI)
* Wall Frames - Guilford of Maine Anchorage 2335, Color Onyx 2016, Black Fabric (OI)
* All soffit and other panels Guilford of Maine Anchorage 2335, Color Onyx 2016 (OI)
Update 7-26-2017 - Additionally Wall Frames to include Guilford of Maine Anchorage 2335, Color Wolf 2027 (OI)
SOUND PROOFING
The room is above the kitchen/dining room . Most walls will be removed and insulated with Roxul Safe and Sound, along with 1/2" + 5/8" DW + GG, with wall treatments of a minimum 1" Linaccoustic on Stretcher Bars
Front wall will have 2" of linacoustic all all Roxul insulation inside.
Riser full insulated with R-13 per Erskines designs. second floor prohibits sand in stage.
No stage planned
Cutting out floor, adding dual layer of R-S&S, reinstalling floor, and adding GG & another layer of 5/8" plywood.

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* Not sure I want to do one. Just paint it Sher-Will 7073 Network.

VIRTUAL MOVIE POSTER
* A 32" LED TV mounted in Portrait displays the Cover Art of the currently movies along with statistics like: Minutes remaining of playing movie, movies coming soon. This came from meyer64 on AVS forums.

JAMES JONES
HT1.0 | HT2.0

Last edited by sirjaymz; 07-26-2017 at 08:50 AM. Reason: Updated Equipment List
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post #3 of 78 Old 11-15-2016, 08:55 AM - Thread Starter
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JAMES JONES
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post #4 of 78 Old 11-15-2016, 08:55 AM - Thread Starter
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reserve #3

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post #5 of 78 Old 11-16-2016, 03:57 AM
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oh so you're almost at 100% then. Dang! That is really awesome. You'll have to travel up the N. Austin and help me begin mine. lol. I'm still in the dreaming and design phase. I wish I had your knowledge. This forum really gets deep.
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post #6 of 78 Old 11-16-2016, 06:24 PM
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I have to reply here for another day or so. I have to build up to 15 postings before I can send PM's.
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post #7 of 78 Old 11-16-2016, 06:25 PM
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your link below fell out, didn't register or whatever. so you'll have to send me that again without the www.

bring it on my friend. worked at Dell myself for a short time. The wife did for 10-15 yrs or so. we're actually up 1431 away from Teravista going towards the Palace, in a new section of a subdivision right across from the water tower. Haven't broken ground yet but getting close. Still in the planning stages for everything.

I'm going to be doing all of the wiring myself I guess, since all of these MT stores want way to much money to do it. I've gotten quotes for 53-85k for all of it. Nah, for that I'll do it myself mostly and learn more about it. I can do most of it I'm pretty sure. It's the science of it all that I'm trying to learn.
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post #8 of 78 Old 11-16-2016, 06:31 PM
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My plans are real green so don't laugh or make fun of me. I'm still trying to figure it all out. And I've just started working on my plans in detail. Like you, I have a builder. Mine's a Semi-Custom Builder so we've asked for a lot of things. But it too gets expensive and they were in such a hurry to lock us in we let them push us around and hurry us. Now I'm kicking myself because I really never got a chance to break it all down and study it. By the time I got all of my plans and such from them they tell us we're locked in to what we've already submitted any additions or changes now will cost $250 just to submit a change order, $500 if plans have to change and we have to pay 100% of the cost of the difference in the change. So I'm trying to collect everything that I want and hold on to it until the last. Or decide if I can do it myself. I'm going to be doing a lot of that myself.
I'll have to do it one weekend and have you and the wife up to spend the weekend and we'll work all day and hot tub it and party into the night and I'll smoke you some food that'll make even Smokey Mo cry with envy. Lol.

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post #9 of 78 Old 11-16-2016, 06:37 PM
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So yes, I've been in the game for a little bit. Always been a movie junkie. My daughter and I love to chillax and watch movies together. Especially around Christmas. I've still got about 400 LD's and looking to add more when I can find them.
Our first serious components were purchased in 1993. And have been adding since then. Now I'm hoping to go all in.

My current HT is just a bedroom take over where I brought a couch in, propped the TV up on the wall, hung a few speakers all over the room and veg when I can. This will be my first HT design from the ground up. Just never had the resources before to do it what with so many kids filling a 5 bedroom house. Now just two are left and in college so the wife gave me one of the BR's to flip and she took one to scrapbook in. And now I'm designing what I want to be the love of my life. But I'll need all y'alls help to do it. There's just so much!

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post #10 of 78 Old 11-16-2016, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Purchased the 30" door, left swing outwards. 1-3/4" solid core. Same style door as the rest of the house from HD. Should be here in about 2 weeks.

Would like to add additional linaccoustic to the door, similar to the GPower frames, or some other ideas?

I am hoping BigMouthinDC can provide some photos of the automatic door sweep.

What seals and gasketing would others recommend?
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post #11 of 78 Old 11-17-2016, 05:30 AM
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I use the seals from Ted at Soundproofingcompany.com
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...tom-jamb-stop/

You cut and install the sides and top first, then cut and install the bottom that drops a rubber gasket when closed. Its best to have a solid threshold at the bottom but I've seen it installed over carpet with partial success.

You can cut the soft aluminum with your miter saw. a regular wood blade will work, they do make blades for non ferrous metals.

This is a different brand but the video gives you an idea of the installation and operation of door seals of this type. They use butt joints, I use miter cuts at the top corners.


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post #12 of 78 Old 11-17-2016, 07:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
I use the seals from Ted at Soundproofingcompany.com
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...tom-jamb-stop/

You cut and install the sides and top first, then cut and install the bottom that drops a rubber gasket when closed. Its best to have a solid threshold at the bottom but I've seen it installed over carpet with partial success.

You can cut the soft aluminum with your miter saw. a regular wood blade will work, they do make blades for non ferrous metals.

This is a different brand but the video gives you an idea of the installation and operation of door seals of this type. They use butt joints, I use miter cuts at the top corners.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2MTodSzfts
Thanks BIG! I'd figure I'd ask you on this as I know you've done these. I appreciate the info.

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post #13 of 78 Old 11-17-2016, 12:24 PM
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so Big. You're sealing up the door tight as a drum right. With this gasket and all.

So the HVAC ducts (multiple) and with a return in the room and the door sealed tight there's no air circulating at all and this is ok with the HVAC system as a whole?
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post #14 of 78 Old 11-17-2016, 12:26 PM
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So guys, are all Solidcore doors the same or are there special ones we need? For instance my builder says he's providing a solid core door, but should I be specific and ask for one in particular?
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post #15 of 78 Old 11-17-2016, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael@mrproe.com View Post
so Big. You're sealing up the door tight as a drum right. With this gasket and all.

So the HVAC ducts (multiple) and with a return in the room and the door sealed tight there's no air circulating at all and this is ok with the HVAC system as a whole?
If the room has a supply and return you have circulation. Assuming the air handler is mixing air with the rest of the house you are getting the benefit of whatever fresh air makes it inside in the rest of the house.
Most often builder special media rooms have no dedicated return and relies on the gap under the door.
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post #16 of 78 Old 11-17-2016, 12:57 PM
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oh I agree there. I was going to talk to him in our pre-build meeting and ask about extra vents and adding a return in both the media room and the media closet.

Let's say he refuses to do it based on the cost is to much. Isn't it pretty easy to attach to an existing one and run new lines of both where i need them?
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post #17 of 78 Old 11-17-2016, 01:10 PM
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maybe I meant add another register? I don't know, do I need one of all 3 in order to regulate the temperature better in both the Media Room and a dedicated closet housing all of the components?
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post #18 of 78 Old 11-17-2016, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael@mrproe.com View Post
Isn't it pretty easy to attach to an existing one and run new lines of both where i need them?
If it is accessible, like in an open attic. If you want more supplies you want to take off the main trunk, not just add a "Y" fitting, adding a Y just splits the amount of air you already have to two locations,

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post #19 of 78 Old 11-17-2016, 01:30 PM
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right. good point. thanks for pointing that out. Yes it's all open attic above throughout the whole house.

So vent is the supply.
Return is just the recycle of old air, right.
The Register is the sensing mechanism to tell if it's hot or cold in a room?
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post #20 of 78 Old 11-17-2016, 01:35 PM
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you have thermostat confused with register

here is a simple block diagram

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post #21 of 78 Old 11-17-2016, 06:21 PM - Thread Starter
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So the Sound Proofing Company has several SPC wall solutions. I was looking at the SPC Wall solution 1, very close to what i was going to be doing, however, it looks like it's marketed and tested with 24" OC studs

Why can i not find anything related to 16" OC stud locations, basically standard building code spec? I am pretty sure I'm not going to reframe to 24" OC.

So is there a link to some test results or reall world experience with 1/2" gypsum, 2x4 - 16" OC wood studs, Roxul Safe and Sound, 5/8" gypsum, GG, 5/8" gypsum. tape, texture and paint ?

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post #22 of 78 Old 11-18-2016, 08:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Continuing the research, I came across Roxul's Safe and Sound spec sheet, but i just realized they provided some STC test results with 16 O.C. wood studs.

Roxul Safe and Sound Specs

The wall profiles i was planning are this, but not sure i will even achieve STC 50 without doing some type of decoupling.

Wall Profiles - Left, Right, Back Walls.
2x4 wood stud 16 O.C., ROXUL SAFE'n'SOUND, 4 mil poly vapor barrier, 5/8" gypsum, Green Glue, 5/8" gypsum, tape, texture, paint, 1" Linaccoustic RC, GOM Anchorage Onyx.

Wall Profile - Screen Wall / Front Wall

Plan A
2x4 wood stud 16 O.C., ROXUL SAFE'n'SOUND, 4 mil poly vapor barrier, 5/8" gypsum, Green Glue, 5/8" gypsum, tape, texture, paint, 1" Linaccoustic RC, 3M-77 spray adhesive, 1" Linaccoustic RC, GOM Anchorage Onyx.

Plan B
Minimal Screen wall, based on BigMouthinDC design.
All the wall behind the screen and on the sides would be 2x4 wood stud 16 O.C., ROXUL SAFE'n'SOUND, 4 mil poly vapor barrier, 5/8" gypsum, Green Glue, 5/8" gypsum, tape, texture, paint, 1" Linaccoustic RC, 3M-77 spray adhesive, 1" Linaccoustic RC. Not sure what i would cover it with.

So, the real question is, should i be expected to get reasonable results with these profiles?

Other than installing hat channel, are there any other recommendations you could provide?

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post #23 of 78 Old 11-18-2016, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
So the Sound Proofing Company has several SPC wall solutions. I was looking at the SPC Wall solution 1, very close to what i was going to be doing, however, it looks like it's marketed and tested with 24" OC studs

Why can i not find anything related to 16" OC stud locations, basically standard building code spec? I am pretty sure I'm not going to reframe to 24" OC.

So is there a link to some test results or reall world experience with 1/2" gypsum, 2x4 - 16" OC wood studs, Roxul Safe and Sound, 5/8" gypsum, GG, 5/8" gypsum. tape, texture and paint ?
I don't think 16" oc will cost to much in the way of sound transmittal. My guess is they go 24" to wring out every last bit of sound proofing. When I do my framing it will most likely be 16" oc unless someone can provide rock solid evidence 24" is significantly better.
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post #24 of 78 Old 11-30-2016, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
PP = Pending Purchase
OI = Own It

SEATING
* FRONT ROW: 4 (2x2 love seats) Straight Black Leather Motorized Recliners (PP)
* BACK ROW: 2 seats black power recline.(PP)

DISPLAY
* PROJECTOR - Sony VPL VW365ES (PP)
* SCREEN: STR-169106 Silver Ticket 106" Diagonal 16:9 HDTV Projector Screen White Material (OI)
* DIGITAL MOVIE POSTER: 32" 4K - Custom Box.(PP)

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: Klipsch RC-64 II (OI)
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: Klipsch RF-82 II (OI)
* FRONT WIDE LEFT/RIGHT: Klipsch RS-41 (OI)
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: Klipsch RS-41 (OI)
* SURROUND BACK LEFT/RIGHT: Klipsch RS-42 II (OI)
* SUB1: Klipsch R112SW (OI)
* SUB2: Klipsch R112SW (OI)
* ATMOS TFR: Klipsch CDT-3650-CII (OI)
* ATMOS TFL: Klipsch CDT-3650-CII (OI)
* ATMOS TRR: Klipsch CDT-3650-CII (OI)
* ATMOS TRL: Klipsch CDT-3650-CII (OI)

ROOM DIMENSIONS & MEASUREMENTS
* IN the RAW 18' Deep x 11'3" Wide

* Front Row: ~10'8" (128") from eye to screen
* Back Row: ~16'6" (198") from eye to screen

EQUIPMENT
* RECEIVER: Denon AVR-X7200WA-HDCP 2.2 upgrade completed. (OI)
* AMP: Emotiva BasX 7-ch, or Monolith 7 (PP)
* GAMING: PS3/PS4 (OI/PP)
* POWER CONDITIONER: APC RM2SUA1500 (OI)

* STORAGE: Synology DS1813+ (8x2TB, RAID5) (OI)


* REMOTE CONTROL: TABLET/iPAD/PHONE USER INTERFACE: iRule (OI)

* LIGHTING CONTROL: Z-Wave (PP)
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: Trane Z-Wave Thermostat x2 (OI)

* CARPETING- Pending Purchase once room is close to completion.

FABRIC & PAINT
* Paint - Sherwin Williams 7073 Network (OI)
* Paint - Sherwin Williams 6258 Tricorn Black (OI)
* Wall Frames - Guilford of Maine Anchorage 2335, Color Onyx 2016, Black Fabric (OI)
* All soffit and other panels Guilford of Maine Anchorage 2335, Color Onyx 2016 (OI)

SOUND PROOFING
The room is above the kitchen/dining room . Most walls will be removed and insulated with Roxul Safe and Sound, along with 5/8" DD + GG, with wall treatments of a minimum 1" Linaccoustic on Stretcher Bars
Front wall will have 2" of linacoustic all all Roxul insulation inside.
Riser full insulated with R-21 per Erskines designs. second floor prohibits sand in stage.
No statge planned
Cutting out floor, adding dual layer of R-S&S, reinstalling floor, and adding GG & another layer of 5/8" plywood.

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* Not sure I want to do one. Just paint it Sher-Will 7073 Network.

VIRTUAL MOVIE POSTER
* A 32" LED TV mounted in Portrait displays the Cover Art of the currently movies along with statistics like: Minutes remaining of playing movie, movies coming soon. This came from meyer64 on AVS forums.
I have a similar house being built. I will follow this thread closely. Thanks..
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post #25 of 78 Old 11-30-2016, 10:14 AM
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My plans are real green so don't laugh or make fun of me. I'm still trying to figure it all out. And I've just started working on my plans in detail. Like you, I have a builder. Mine's a Semi-Custom Builder so we've asked for a lot of things. But it too gets expensive and they were in such a hurry to lock us in we let them push us around and hurry us. Now I'm kicking myself because I really never got a chance to break it all down and study it. By the time I got all of my plans and such from them they tell us we're locked in to what we've already submitted any additions or changes now will cost $250 just to submit a change order, $500 if plans have to change and we have to pay 100% of the cost of the difference in the change. So I'm trying to collect everything that I want and hold on to it until the last. Or decide if I can do it myself. I'm going to be doing a lot of that myself.
I'll have to do it one weekend and have you and the wife up to spend the weekend and we'll work all day and hot tub it and party into the night and I'll smoke you some food that'll make even Smokey Mo cry with envy. Lol.
I am a week away from my construction meeting..Still have changes coming into my head daily right now..Nerve racking..lol
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post #26 of 78 Old 11-30-2016, 03:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kciaccio View Post
I have a similar house being built. I will follow this thread closely. Thanks..
Quote:
Originally Posted by kciaccio View Post
I am a week away from my construction meeting..Still have changes coming into my head daily right now..Nerve racking..lol
Based on your plans that were attached, a couple of things i would change on your build.
  • the location of the entrance to the media room,
    • depending on which way you are planning to have the screen wall, IMHO, I would want the screen wall on the outside wall on the right. I would have them put a single 30, 32" or 36" solid core door entering the media room next to the 'Stor' location. The 'Stor' location could be used to have an inwall 19" 42u rack. get rid of the slant wall that the plan has the door in, and square that off.
    • if you put the screen wall on the wall that is adjacent to the 'Game Room', IMHO, i would then move the door on the left wall, straight in front of what looks like a overlook balcony to below. you could still use the 'Stor' space as a location for a AV rack. again, make the room 4 sides only, get rid of the slanted wall. I would have them put a single 30, 32" or 36" solid core door.
Do you have a build thread started yet? plans of layout for the media room?

JAMES JONES
HT1.0 | HT2.0
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post #27 of 78 Old 11-30-2016, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
Based on your plans that were attached, a couple of things i would change on your build.
  • the location of the entrance to the media room,
    • depending on which way you are planning to have the screen wall, IMHO, I would want the screen wall on the outside wall on the right. I would have them put a single 30, 32" or 36" solid core door entering the media room next to the 'Stor' location. The 'Stor' location could be used to have an inwall 19" 42u rack. get rid of the slant wall that the plan has the door in, and square that off.
    • if you put the screen wall on the wall that is adjacent to the 'Game Room', IMHO, i would then move the door on the left wall, straight in front of what looks like a overlook balcony to below. you could still use the 'Stor' space as a location for a AV rack. again, make the room 4 sides only, get rid of the slanted wall. I would have them put a single 30, 32" or 36" solid core door.
Do you have a build thread started yet? plans of layout for the media room?
Have not done the construction meeting yet. Solid core door was definitely on the list. I thought of closing the storage space off instead of the door and have the wall opened into the theater to use as a bar and equipment holder area.
You are correct to assume the screen would be on that outside wall. I kind of like the angled door because if it is opened during a movie the light wouldn't hit the screen if the hinge side was on the right and door opened in...
I thought I would have them double dry wall the entire room and I would green glue in between the the layers as they put it up. Also double the floor too.
Any other changes you can think of?

Last edited by kciaccio; 11-30-2016 at 04:22 PM. Reason: adding
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post #28 of 78 Old 11-30-2016, 08:06 PM
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Hi James, I am very familiar with Wildwood at Northpointe. We spent many weekends looking at homes there and thought that's where we would end up, it's a great community. We ended up buying in Cypress last year and then we unfortunately got flooded during the tax day flood. We just moved back in a couple of weeks ago after nearly 7 months. The good news is we made many upgrades during the process even though the house was brand new. The best upgrade was building out my theater. It's smaller than your room (approx 11'10"x 16 after wall treatments) but I was able to get 2 rows with a riser and an 110" screen. It's cozy but very comfortable.

I just wanted to let you know I bought my theater seats from the popular place outside of San Antonio that you mentioned. They have a great showroom but as an FYI they may not have what you want in stock. It seems like they keep most things in their California warehouse but not in Tx. I went with the Seatcraft Sonoma and it is a great seat of very high quality. The buying experience was very good and I highly recommend them. As you probably know, they are the owner of Seatcraft and 4seating.com which has received some poor reviews so I wanted to let you know that my experience was a good one. If I can answer any questions for you just let me know.
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post #29 of 78 Old 12-01-2016, 04:42 PM
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Gypsum and Green Glue walls

Quote:
Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
So the Sound Proofing ......So is there a link to some test results or reall world experience with 1/2" gypsum, 2x4 - 16" OC wood studs, Roxul Safe and Sound, 5/8" gypsum, GG, 5/8" gypsum. tape, texture and paint ?
Like you I've been looking a lot for facts about which is better 16" o.c. or 24" o.c. builds. But unlike you, i might can change to whichever is better. Through what I have been able to find it appears that 24" o.c. is better. But along the way I did find a lot of helpful info. And some examples of 16" & 24" o.c. cases. So check these locations out. If someone with more intelligence can teach what all of this means it would be helpful. But I do hope these two locations will help. Attached also is something I put together. I was going to call each and ask them various questions to see if they could determine my STC rating for the design I was wanting.

https://www.nationalgypsum.com/file/THESOUNDBOOK.pdf
https://www.soundisolationcompany.co...e-diagrams.pdf
https://www.soundisolationcompany.co.../green-glue-2/

You mentioned Roxul Safe and Sound gypsum: is that better than say any of the other quiet rock out there? I think SoundBreak was another one. Is there a comparison of each out there anyone has found as to which drywall is the absolute best?
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File Type: pdf Largest_STC_SingleWallConstruction.pdf (393.5 KB, 29 views)
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post #30 of 78 Old 12-01-2016, 07:15 PM
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which ROXUL SAFE'n'SOUND product

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Originally Posted by sirjaymz View Post
Continuing the research, I came across Roxul's Safe and Sound spec sheet, ......
so @sirjaymz is ROXUL SAFE'n'SOUND an insulation material?

Last edited by Kino Liebhaber; 12-03-2016 at 02:57 PM. Reason: correcting username
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