AVS Forum banner

New Theater Build help needed "Cinema Lovers" Build

786 views 22 replies 5 participants last post by  AdvancedTheater 
#1 ·
So I don't know which direction to face my seating?

I mean they both have their pro's and con's right?

A little help would be appreciated on my new build. Thanks.
 

Attachments

#3 ·
I thought I wanted a bar refrigerator so we could have our wine and beer.

"Raising the noise floor of the room"? what's this in english?

Yes I should still be able to change effectively anything except the outer most walls. Door has not been firmed in. In the two pics they should both be in different places depending on which direction I turn the seats. But that's the question. What do I do with the space and most effectively and with the best set up audio and visually?
 
#4 · (Edited)
If you are going to put a popcorn machine in that small room be sure to install a kitchen exhaust fan. Be sure to get one rated for kitchens as oils and dust will build up over time and ones rated for kitchen use are designed not to start a fire with the build up. In my 20x50 ft room I have to open a window and run a window fan, I can only imagine what it will be like in your planned room.

Better yet is to move it out.

Noise floor means how quiet the room is when not in use with the door closed. The compressor noise on a refrigerator will be audible.

If I was building that room for myself I would do a single row version #2 and with the door position as shown rotate the seating 180 degrees so the entrance isn't congested.
 
#5 ·
So what is the function of the space outside the theater? Would it be possible to put in a credenza and the popcorn maker there?

And could the av rack be recessed in that cavity?

If you don't have speakers yet, a baffle wall design and acoustically transparent screen, could be a design option.

Four theater style seats would give you a seating foot print at 8' wide, and decent aisle widths. This would be another potential layout.

The noise floor of a typical home is 55 db. The quietest passages of a movie soundtrack are 23 db. If you up the volume to hear the
quietest passages of a sound track, then the loudest passages are too loud. Adding compressor noise is going to make things worse, further
reducing the dynamic range of the soundtrack. The best audio setup would involve no bar fridge, and the room's noise floor around 23 db. Now
you won't need to play with the volume, during an entire movie.
 

Attachments

#10 ·
So what is the function of the space outside the theater?
the area outside the theater is a hallway from the front door (can be see in attachment pg.1) to the LR & Kitchen. I'd still have to install a fan for the popcorn machine and that wouldn't be possible.

Now as far as the av rack I have a dedicated Media Room Closet in the bottom right hand corner of the page (can be see in attachment pg.2) . It is 7'-6 x 28" I think. And just across the hall from the theater. All components for all 4 systems in the house will be stored in this closet.

a baffle wall design and acoustically transparent screen, could be a design option
I have no idea what any of this is. Do you have links to what you mean?

I'm not exactly sure what length the couch is yet that my wife has to put in there. I'll measure it later this month when I return home for Christmas. But it seats 3 I guess you'd say, but as skinny as we are we can put 4. It is a Wall recliner, which means you push it up against the wall and it reclines forward not taking a backwards approach to reclining. But I wanted more seats and @BIGmouthinDC gave me a link to some used cinema seats (can be see in attachment) that I could use to get more seating. The wife doesn't like the idea of putting all cinema seats in the theater as those rocker type cinema seats so I'll have to start with her couch.

And the centrally located optimized seat was my goal. But as @BIGmouthinDC mentioned it gets congested around the door so I slid the seats closer to one wall. Which I don't really like cause it would put the side speakers to close to the seat on that end.
So I don't know what to do.

I updated the picture per what @bigmouthDC and @Tedd mentioned previously. Is this more of what y'all were talking about?
 

Attachments

#8 · (Edited)
Thanks @BIGmouthinDC and @Tedd.

I'll nix the Popcorn machine and the Frig from within the room and find somewhere else for them. BIG is right, if a fan is needed then I'll have to move the popcorn machine into the kitchen where there is already a $2k fan over the range/stove.

So BIG, you're saying rotate the seating (pg.2) so that the door is in the front of the viewing stage?

If I can move the door anywhere along that wall is there a better location for it. The Niche thing built in was something the wife wanted to be mirrored like the otherside just so it would look uniform. But I could change things up if neccessary. I mean like @Tedd suggested I could move the door into that corner nearest where the door is show on pg.2.

So BIG, why lose all the depth by rotating the seating? Doesn't that cut the viewing distance down and move the seats closer to the screen making the field of vision smaller?
 
#9 ·
If you can move the door just make sure it doesn't come in right to the side of the seating, somewhere in front. I think you get room for one more seat in Pg2 layout. But Pg1 is fine without the second row, but you need back and side aisles which is good from and audio perspective.
 
#14 ·
Other than adding acoustical treatments throughout the room, I will need to SOUNDPROOF the room. I am hoping to persuade (beer, brisket, BBQ) my builder to slightly change their normal routine and make it my way but I'm not sure if he will or not. So..........I'm preparing to rip out all of the drywall inside the media room and start over. I guess..

Should I start over or just add to what they give me?

I have asked what Brand and thickness drywall is included in my build of my house but my salesman did not know and said he would check. So worse case let's assume 1/2" on 16"o.c. with Sound Batt insulation. Kitchen and Study on long walls. Brick on one end. 8"+ niche cutout on the door opening end. The door can be moved anywhere along the one end, as far as I know. I'm going to first ask him for 24"o.c. Second I'll ask if I can replace/swap sheetrock out for a 5/8" replacement. TBD. First Construction meeting isn't until either 22-23 or 27-28 of December.

I need a Soundproofing expert so maybe @BIGmouthinDC, @Ted White, @pmeyer, @granroth, @erskine, @sirjaymz, or somebody out there to advise me. I have been reading alot of posts by you guys (previously listed) but not all of them cause jeez there are like 5,000+ posts on the subject.
But the way I'm seeing it I have at least 2 major Options:

Option 1: (assuming I use what they give me by default construction with no changes)
on 4 walls and ceiling and 16" o.c., 1/2" sheetrock, Sound Batt Insulation.
Add Soundproofing Clips with Drywall Furring Channel on top of existing 1/2" drywall.
Add 5/8" layer of sheetrock
Add 2-3 tubes of GG
Add second 5/8" layer of sheetrock.
STC probably 67+

Option 2: (reminder kitchen cabinets and granite on counters on one side, study with California Closet Cabinets ($6k) mounted on the wall on other)
Rip out all drywall on 4 walls and ceiling
Add horizontal floor framing 2x4 stud.
Add second row of all verticle studs with 24"o.c. staggered framing.
ReUse Sound Batt Insulation
Add second row of Insulation of some sort on 24"o.c. side
Add Soundproofing Clips with Drywall Furring Channel on studs.
Add 5/8" layer of sheetrock
Add 2-3 tubes of GG (how does this convert to the 5 gal. pale)
Add second 5/8" layer of sheetrock.
STC probably 67+
 
#15 ·
I like #2. Door out of the way.

Acoustically transparent screen: a projector screen that you can put your speakers behind.

On sound insulation:
- you can go heavy duty and build a completely separate box inside the original walls. The new walls are connected to the outer walls with clips or some other way that doesn't transmit much sound. I don't think you need to go there

- you can go mid way (but still heavy duty) with a wall as thick as a 2x6 wall, but with staggered 2x4's. Odd studs connect to the theater drywall, even studs to the hallway/kitchen drywall. Not hugely thick, but isolates sound. Search for "staggered stud soundproofing"

- standard wall, add more mass to the wall. This was what I did (retrofitting an existing space). I added an additional 3/4 floor (with green glue between old floor and new) and double 5/8 drywall on walls/ceiling, also green glue.

Mine was 2nd story, just above the master, far from kid rooms. Floor/walls were key.

Where I fell down was the door. I had a double door, which is a royal pain to sound insulate. I put in heavier doors and left it at that. In a new build, I'd put in a single door, and have them treat it as a heavy exterior door. If the door is heavy (re: solid) and there is a good air seal you should be good.

Get all the popcorn and stuff out, good move. Focus on picture/sound/seats.

Think about your sound system now. Where will the speakers go, etc.

Figure out what you want to sound isolate from. Exterior likely doesn't matter. Kitchen, not a huge deal. Bedrooms, living room are the target. Exterior wall might be less of an issue. Focus on kitchen/hallway heavier wall.

Don't forget the ceiling and air ducts. The best walls in the world won't help if the sound is going through a light ceiling or air ducts into the attic and into the kids bedrooms. Thicker ceiling, and ideally an isolated AC system, or some zig-zags or baffles in the air ducts.

YMMV. I've been out of it for the past three years or so (better house, but small TV room with stereo speakers...)

Paul
 
#16 ·
A baffle wall is where the speakers are embedded in a wall. If you didn't have speakers for this room, you could get away with as little as 8"
of room depth given to the baffle wall, and then use an acoustically transparent screen. An acoustically transparent screen hides the speakers
behind it, and the sound flows through the screen. You could use something like SeymourAV XD fabric with a single row and still keep your
seating off the back wall.

When a room's foot print gets tight, most people cram in seating and end up with it on the walls, and possibly in the corners. If you
can realistically access your seating needs, then there might be an option to reduce seat count and better optimize where the seats are.
This approach can keep seats off surround speakers/off the walls, and out of the corners of the room. Good goals if you value the audio side
of things. A single row of seating in a smaller space also means bigger screen potential.

I asked about the area outside the room to get comments to better understand it's purpose. And then you get feedback like the niche area
having importance.
 

Attachments

#17 ·
This is how your space would check off most of my want list for my next room, assuming
the speakers weren't already in place. BTW, bipolar speakers aren't an ideal choice since
you will likely want the front wall acoustically treated on the absorption side of things,
and those speakers rely on reflection from the front wall.

Dark fabric walls to maximize the audio and give the illusion the room is larger then it is.
All speakers except possibly the subs, hidden and taking up zero visual foot print. Less
distractions. I'd up the lighting count, and put it on a zoned lighting controller, and make the
lighting a design feature. I like some more bling to offset the serious viewing nature of the
room, so I'd consider a nice feature wall outside the room. Maybe some horizontally run flooring
on the wall and embed a rotated hdtv as a digital movie poster light box, which could also simply run
digital pictures.
 

Attachments

#18 ·
@pmeyer thanks. Yes, Popcorn and frig are now gone from my thoughts.
If I use what they give me by default construction with no changes can I just add:
on 4 walls and ceiling and their 16" o.c., their 1/2" sheetrock, and using their Sound Batt Insulation all painted and perfect and,
Add Soundproofing Clips on top of 1/2" drywall with Drywall Furring Channels on top of the existing 1/2" drywall. Then,
Add 5/8" layer of sheetrock, then,
Add 2-3 tubes of GG, then,
Add second 5/8" layer of sheetrock. And hope that this would be enough.
Then add accoustical treatments.

Would this be an acceptable design choice?

@Tedd
Why put the AV Rack right outside the door as opposed to the Closet designated for this purpose? Is putting the components in a closet a bad idea?

So if I went with your fantastic idea (now my idea :D) of the dark fabric walls; spandex acoustically transparent screen; what would be the spacing of my front speakers and what type of speakers would be best? Brand and type for instance?
And, with a ~135" projector screen (or some variation and size) how far off the side wall would the L/R speakers be? Also, what is the depth of this new front wall?
Do I accoustically treat this front wall?
Do I soundproof this wall, knowing that it has brick on the other side?

I like the idea of the first picture that you sent that has the couch in front, and a riser with 4 more seats on the back and move the door. That I could do. Question though: what would be the max distance for the couch in this plan? My idea all along was to have the center of the couch being the center of all sound or whatever that position is called.
Also, could I or would it be ok and wise to, odd as it may be, make the big thick heavy door swing out into the hallway, thus not taking up any space in the cinema?

Wow, so many questions....Thanks for your patience guys.
 
#22 ·
@pmeyer thanks. Yes, Popcorn and frig are now gone from my thoughts.

Add Soundproofing Clips on top of 1/2" drywall with Drywall Furring Channels on top of the existing 1/2" drywall. Then,
Add 5/8" layer of sheetrock, then,
Add 2-3 tubes of GG, then,
Add second 5/8" layer of sheetrock. And hope that this would be enough.
Then add accoustical treatments.

Would this be an acceptable design choice?
that creates a triple leaf, two air spaces and three solid layers.

Generally that is no no. you can google the research. It would be better just to rip out and throw away the 1/2" layer the builder gives you.
 
#20 ·
@Tedd
I now have the need for new front speakers, since you noted that bi-polar speakers aren't good, which mine are bi-polar. Sooooo, The speakers are not in place at this time. I have a pair of brand new Pioneer Elite in-walls, S-IW 571L's. Would these work for the baffle wall or do I want a front firing tower speaker?
 
#21 ·
The av rack in the closet is a fine idea. That alcove if empty, was a nice location for being able to cue
up a movie. Just something that stuck with me that Art Sonneborn mentioned about his av closet and rack
orientation in his home theater.

That niche area in the theater would be nice, but that's maybe not a battle you will win......

The issue with the overflow seating on the back wall, is the seats are right on top of rear wall surround speakers.

The door swing might be a code issue, something to research for your location. Swinging inwards, doesn't really impact on
the theater since you ideally don't want seating on the walls.

You don't want the clips installed on top of existing drywall.

Your screen size should be dictated by viewing angle and riser height, so the second row can see the bottom of the screen, and the front
row can take in the entire screen surface, without one's eyes jumping around.

Ideally, you don't want your front row ears to be centered in the room (front to back).

The front speaker spread ideally will be 30 degrees off of center, for the LR mains. Your space isn't large so I expect those speakers should
allow you to play reference levels since the speaker throw distance to seating isn't large.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top