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post #1 of 62 Old 01-29-2017, 07:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Auburn Hills Theater Build

Hi Everyone,

I recently started on a home theater build and was hoping to get some feedback on my design.

I have a fairly good size room (14' x 26') however the ceiling is very low (7'2").

At this point I have only started building the stage. I am planning on using an AT screen and placing the speakers behind it. The components will go next to the screen either behind a cabinet door or a curtain. On the other side I will add some shelving for DVD's.

I would welcome any feedback you have but I also have a few key questions:

1. Is the placement of the speakers ok or should I move the rack to the back of the room in order to get the speakers in the corners?

2. Are the viewing distances ok? Should I consider a smaller screen?

3. I am planning a 6" riser but I suspect it may not do the job to see over the front row seats. I have to options, build it taller at the risk of losing ceiling height or buy a chair with a taller base (if these are available).

Any other ideas? I would hate to make a crucial mistake early on in the building process.

Attached are my plans and some progress pictures.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 62 Old 01-30-2017, 01:41 AM
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Another solution is to put a 3-4 inch riser under the chair base on top of your first riser. Saves the headroom for walking around
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post #3 of 62 Old 02-02-2017, 06:46 PM - Thread Starter
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I finished the framing for the stage and have cut out the plywood and OSB for the top. Next step is to fill the stage with insulation and then round-over the lip with a router. I hope to get this all done this weekend.

Next step would be the riser. I noticed that some folks used larger pieces of wood for the frame than for the braces/cross-members. What is the reason for this? I am thinking of using 2x6s for the frame and 2x4s for the cross-members (once I understand why this is a good idea )
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post #4 of 62 Old 02-02-2017, 10:06 PM
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It's all about using the riser as a bass absorber to help minimize resonant frequencies in your theater. One connected air space is best, You need to cut in vents at the room boundaries.
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post #5 of 62 Old 02-03-2017, 06:30 AM
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If you're thinking about using 2x4 for your joists, consider that they aren't rated for any kind of span. I'm thinking I'm in the same boat as you. I'm going with a single row of seating but want a riser for the effect and because of constraints, the riser is the most logical place for a trap. I also don't want a step; I want the entire riser to be accessible like one big step so I need to keep it under 8" total height. I'm considering laminating 3-2x4's per joist at 12" centres and if needed a brace or foot at the middle of each joist down to the floor.

Just some food for thought, Let us know the route you take.
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post #6 of 62 Old 02-03-2017, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Big,

I was actually looking to follow your design (see pic attached). I doesn't look like you built yours the way I describe but it is hard to tell. Did you have one large connected space or did you decide against it.

Did you put vents in the top or on the sides of the riser?

I found a picture that seems to keep it one big space and add additional support to the joists. I will probably go with this design.
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post #7 of 62 Old 02-03-2017, 09:25 AM
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I built that first riser when I was young and foolish. I had to add that bit at the front and it was not built as a bass absorber as it was in the middle of the room, to be honest it was before I learned about that technique. To function well as a bass absorber the riser needs to be against the back and side walls, the interior should be one connected air space and the larger the interior volume the better it will perform. From an expert room calibrator a 24 inch tall riser works best. As you get smaller it will have less impact.

Large vents need to be added along the back and side walls. 4x48 inch large. And the riser needs to be filled with insulation.
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post #8 of 62 Old 02-03-2017, 10:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Ah, that makes sense. I think I may struggle to do that given my low ceiling. Also I plan on attaching a bar to the back of the riser. I will try to do as much as I can with insulation and making one large space. Given it will only be a 6" riser it probably will not do much. To that point though, should I put insulation inside the bar frame as well?
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post #9 of 62 Old 02-03-2017, 12:22 PM
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You located in Auburn Hills, MI? I'm currently at work right across the street from OU...
We've got quite a few builds going on in this part of the state right now... Subscribing to follow along with yours

I have about a 9.5' viewing distance from a 117" screen and I think it is just about perfect - so your 10' from a 120" will be good. I know it is a little closer than recommended for 16:9, but I personally love it.

-Aaron
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post #10 of 62 Old 02-03-2017, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey Aaron,

Yes Auburn Hills, MI. I live close to Chrysler.

I will shoot you a pm (once I have 15 quality posts).

I will check out your thread too.

Thanks for the info on the seating distance, I am shortly starting the riser and was a little worried that it may be too close.
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post #11 of 62 Old 02-03-2017, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spawnstar78 View Post
Ah, that makes sense. I think I may struggle to do that given my low ceiling. Also I plan on attaching a bar to the back of the riser. I will try to do as much as I can with insulation and making one large space. Given it will only be a 6" riser it probably will not do much. To that point though, should I put insulation inside the bar frame as well?


Nice looking bar.

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post #12 of 62 Old 02-04-2017, 04:52 AM
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Auburn Hills Theater Build

I don't know if you saw it or not but there is a new thread that got started for Michigan folks to make it easier to plan get togethers and things.
Worth keeping an eye on - there are a few people finishing up soon so there will be some stuff happening soon.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...ge=1&_k=pq6kv3

-Aaron
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post #13 of 62 Old 02-04-2017, 05:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Aaron

I subscribed to that thread. A get together would be awesome.
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post #14 of 62 Old 02-04-2017, 12:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Finished the stage today. Here are some pictures.

I finished the frame last week and started with the insulation. Then put adhesive on the joists and added the first layer of plywood.
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post #15 of 62 Old 02-04-2017, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
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I then added some green glue between the layers. Finally, once all the layers were on I rounded over the lip with my router.

Next up is the riser. I will post my plans for the riser once I have revised them. I figured out I can make it a bit higher without my head hitting the ceiling. If I have a guest taller than 6'6" it will just suck to be them.
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post #16 of 62 Old 02-06-2017, 11:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Hit a bit of a speedbump yesterday. I removed the carpet to start building the riser and found a crack in the foundation floor. It looks like it has been repaired before but some of the caulk (or whatever was used) has come loose.

Does anyone know what I can use to fix this? I know Home Depot sells something called Sika Concrete Fix Sealant. Has anyone used this before?
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post #17 of 62 Old 02-06-2017, 12:05 PM
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From what I understand is that these cracks are normal most of the time. My house was built in 2011 and I had three good size cracks that I filled with a concrete patch.
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post #18 of 62 Old 02-06-2017, 03:54 PM
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I just use a concrete mix that has a polymer in it to help adhere to the existing floor.

Cracks in concrete are normal, unfortunately.
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post #19 of 62 Old 02-07-2017, 03:45 AM
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I'm following along. Great to see another SE Michigan theater being built! I sit 10' from a 120" 16:9 screen and love it. Not sure I would want to go any bigger though.

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post #20 of 62 Old 02-08-2017, 05:57 AM
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7'2" ceiling height and a third row is going to be real tight. You need to watch where the projector ends up, throw-wise re head room and circulation space.

Do you actually need all that seating? Your seating "wantitis" is negatively impacting on the audio (and possibly screen real estate) side of things.
Less could very well be more here. Have you thought about the seating close to the walls and you should be thinking about the surround speakers
an dhow youa re going to set their levels and how that impacts on the sound?

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post #21 of 62 Old 02-14-2017, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Tedd,

Those are good points but how else would you have laid out the room? The room size is awkward as it is 26' long and 14' wide. Would you have just used two rows and moved them further back?

The bulk of the viewing will be done from the first row.

Thanks
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post #22 of 62 Old 02-14-2017, 06:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is a quick update. I have managed to fix the crack and have completed the riser frame and bar frame. The electrician is coming tomorrow to put some outlets in the riser.
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post #23 of 62 Old 02-14-2017, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spawnstar78 View Post
Tedd,

Those are good points but how else would you have laid out the room? The room size is awkward as it is 26' long and 14' wide. Would you have just used two rows and moved them further back?

The bulk of the viewing will be done from the first row.

Thanks
I would first decide on how many seats I really needed.

I would have considered the use of an acoustically transparent screen, and that would eat up some room depth (visually).

I also wouldn't be shoving the seating back too far, as some breathing room off the back wall is a good thing. Being 4-5 feet,
off the rear surround speakers, is a nice luxury.

At 7'2" of height, I would be thinking two rows. And if that third row was to be seriously considered, then I start looking at where the projector
lands, for whatever screen size, so it doesn't end up in the head room of the second row.

14x26 is a pretty nice space to have, which means there might be opportunities to build inwards. The height isn't ideal, and the
width is pretty much double, which isn't ideal. So depending on your seating needs, that might mean an opportunity to build inwards also.
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post #24 of 62 Old 02-15-2017, 08:33 AM
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Large vents need to be added along the back and side walls. 4x48 inch large. And the riser needs to be filled with insulation.
Any suggestion on where to get 4" x 48" vents?
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Any suggestion on where to get 4" x 48" vents?
I ordered one for my large return grille from these guys. I think it was actually after a link from BIGmouth:

http://www.hvacquick.com/

I was pleased with quality and felt it was a fair price as completely custom made to order.
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I ordered one for my large return grille from these guys. I think it was actually after a link from BIGmouth:

http://www.hvacquick.com/

I was pleased with quality and felt it was a fair price as completely custom made to order.
Was it one of these?

http://www.hvacquick.com/products.ph...Linear-Grilles
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I needed a wider one for a ceiling mounted fresh air inlet grille cover. You can check it out in my build thread - fairly sure that I have a picture of it installed. So, mine was a different style and I went with the angled outlet to force the air away from screen and toward the front row seats.

http://www.hvacquick.com/products/re...Linear-Grilles
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post #28 of 62 Old 02-15-2017, 04:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Let's talk about vents baby!

So the electrician came today to put outlets in the riser. Next step is to fill it with insulation. Before I do that though I could use some guidance on what to do with vents. There will be a bar on the back of the riser.

Where should I put the vents and how large should they be? I was thinking I could put one right in front of the door and then I can put some on top of the riser.

What would happen if I don't add the vents? I plan on carpeting the riser and don't really want a bunch of holes in the carpet.

Thanks!
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post #29 of 62 Old 02-15-2017, 05:28 PM
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Are you asking about vents to use your riser as a bass trap?

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post #30 of 62 Old 02-15-2017, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Are you asking about vents to use your riser as a bass trap?
Yes sir.
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