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post #1 of 84 Old 03-14-2017, 09:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Steve's First Dedicated Theater

I've been patiently waiting to pursue a dedicated theater since really getting into the hobby sophomore year in college, and finally construction has begun. I'm doing the whole basement, so a bathroom, bedroom, bonus room, and a few other spaces are going to be completed at the same time. This isn't my forever house, so some compromises will be made in terms of room functionality for potential future owners. There will be 15 speaker surround sound with six 18" subwoofers and a blacked out front false wall with a 135" screen.

For now, equipment will be:

JVC DLA-RS400 projector
Yet to be decided 135" 16:9 AT screen (I have 10 different swatches to test)
Onkyo TX-NR3010 receiver
Yamaha HTR-5890 receiver (will use as amplification for additional channels)
Boston Acoustics VR3 mains
Boston Acoustics VR1 center
Boston Acoustics VR1 wides
Boston Acoustics VR1 surrounds
Boston Acoustic CS ii 260 rears
Boston Acoustics A25 heights
Ascend Acoustics HSi 460 front and rear in ceiling
2x Ascendant Audio Avalanche 18 LLT subwoofers with 2x Carvin HD1800 amps
4x Stereo Integrity HT-18 LLT subwoofers with Behringer Inuke NU4-6000 amp

A Dolby Atmos and DTS X receiver will be purchased in the future, but for now, the Yamaha will serve to amplify the heights and in ceiling speakers. The front ceiling speakers will be duplicating the front heights, and the rear ceiling speakers will be duplicating the rears or surrounds.

A false floor comprised of 1/4" 6lb density polyethylene foam, pressure treated 2 x 4 sideways, and 3/4" tongue in groove osb will cover the entire room. This will prevent the slab from stealing the infrasonic rumble. No reason to do 6 LLTs if I can't feel the earth shake.

The theater seating will be Hogan zero wall recliners in front and back row. The back row will be on a two step riser approximately 10-12" tall with led perimeter lighting.

There will be a false front wall decked out in black velvet. There will be tray ceiling with a 700 star fiber optic center and led perimeter lighting. There will be 8 recessed lights in the tray and only 2 wall sconces due to window placement. The windows will be fully blacked out and then covered by acoustic panels. There will be some absorption on the side walls, some absorption and diffusion on the back walls, and a giant 3' x 6' absorption bass trap in the rear left of the theater. The theater will have a double door entry with some slick looking pull door handles, as well as a healthy sized walk in closet up front that I will probably use to store my media.

I hope you enjoy following along.
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Last edited by SteveCallas; 04-23-2017 at 07:54 AM.
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post #2 of 84 Old 03-14-2017, 10:00 PM - Thread Starter
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post #3 of 84 Old 03-14-2017, 10:01 PM - Thread Starter
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post #4 of 84 Old 03-14-2017, 10:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Plans and the first framing. I am open to last minute suggestions or tips - I didn't get much input in my pre-build thread.
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post #5 of 84 Old 03-15-2017, 05:33 AM
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Hi Steve...Are you able to run some HVAC into your room? I noticed some ductwork in your pics. In a room full of guests with projector running you will want some air exchanges going on.
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post #6 of 84 Old 03-15-2017, 05:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, two forced air runs and two air return vents. One of the returns will be near the projector.
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post #7 of 84 Old 03-15-2017, 06:03 AM
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Excellent. How about your equipment rack? I noticed a spot near your entry doors. Or will you be building into an adjacent wall?
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post #8 of 84 Old 03-15-2017, 09:08 AM - Thread Starter
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That black line towards the front of the room is a false wall to hold the screen. The sides of the false wall - beyond the screen - will be black velvet curtains that can be moved to get behind it. All the equipment will be in freestanding racks behind the screen, as will the 4 new subwoofers.

If the inuke fans are really loud, i'll put it in the walk in closet. For an amp that's supposed to put out that much power, i don't want to modify and slow down the fans.

I forgot to mention the whole theater will have a floating floor. 1/4" thick 6lb density polyethylene foam, then 2x4s laying flat, then 3/4" tongue in groove osb. Plan right now is to not anchor it into the concrete and see how it works. I want the floor to pulse and rumble with low bass like it does upstairs. All of these subs are tuned to 12-13hz, it would be a shame to have an inert floor lol.

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post #9 of 84 Old 03-15-2017, 11:06 AM
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Looking forward to your build! For your consideration, I replaced the fans in my NU4-6000 with Noctua NF-R8 units just after I bought it and it has performed perfectly (and quietly) for 2 years now. The 4 channels seem to do just fine with fan changes; I have read of a few users having issues with fan replacements in the NU6000 units.
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post #10 of 84 Old 03-15-2017, 04:15 PM
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Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

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post #11 of 84 Old 03-15-2017, 09:50 PM - Thread Starter
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More framing done today, and they tore up the concrete in the bathroom. The 60" double door entry to the theater with push handles should look really nice - all the doors in the basement will be Mastercraft solid knotty alder raised plank 2 panel doors stained grey.
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post #12 of 84 Old 03-16-2017, 05:25 AM
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So far it looks good. All the best!

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post #13 of 84 Old 03-16-2017, 08:39 AM
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What made you decide to go with the double doors? I have them going into my theater and wish I didn't because of the major sound leak. Wife and daughter like them, so they win.
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post #14 of 84 Old 03-16-2017, 10:15 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm not married and don't have kids, so it will be just me and the gf or guests using the room as the only people in the house at that time. Because of that, and because the future owner might use the room for something else, I decided not to worry about or invest much in soundproofing besides insulation between the joists.

With that concern gone, the double doors give the theater a grand entrance feel.
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post #15 of 84 Old 03-16-2017, 10:38 AM
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Seems well-planned! I'll certainly follow along. Man, all that dirt would fill up a lot of vacuum cleaners!

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post #16 of 84 Old 03-17-2017, 06:43 AM - Thread Starter
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I've been checking out a lot of other folks theaters on here, and I see a lot of instances with the mains up against the front wall and/or out all the way to the side walls, toe'd in aggressively.

Is this a conscious compromise made because of a non AT screen and no room for a false wall, or do most have no intention of listening to music in this space, purely movies? Seems like I see it in most rooms. For good stereo imaging and soundstage depth, we need the mains a few feet out from the front wall and a few feet in from the sidewalls.
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post #17 of 84 Old 03-18-2017, 11:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I did the framing for the tray ceiling myself when the contractor quoted me $1k

I have to be away for business for the week, but the electrical should be done when I get back. As far as the theater is concerned, 3 dedicated 20amp outlets up front for gear, a dedicated 20 for the projector and star ceiling, and then a shared 20 for outlets spaced throughout the room. 8 recessed 6" LED lights in the tray ceiling and 2 wall sconces - 10 was going to be too bright.
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post #18 of 84 Old 04-01-2017, 04:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Getting close to drywall, just need to run my cables and insulate the shared walls and ceiling. Decided on an ultra quiet exhaust fan a few inches in front of the projector in case the two forced air vents and two passive return vents aren't enough.
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post #19 of 84 Old 04-01-2017, 05:27 PM
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Coming along nice Steve. Are the windows staying?

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post #20 of 84 Old 04-01-2017, 08:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Windows are staying, but they will get blackout shades and then 4" thick absorption panels in front of them. I may also put a piece of hardboard between the shades and panels.
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post #21 of 84 Old 04-03-2017, 10:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Electrical pvc pipe going in place for speaker cable and hdmi cable. Anybody else straighten out new cable by stretching it all through the house like this, or am i losing it? Lol
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post #22 of 84 Old 04-04-2017, 10:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Got everything but the LCR and heights wired through the soffits - the rest will stay behind the screen wall, so no need to hide them. I decided last minute to buy 4 Boston Acoustic ceiling speakers with tiltable tweeters for future Atmos use. If i can manipulate the receiver situation right, i think i can have 11.2.4 surround sound.

All these cables will run through a 3" pipe and then through this chute in the drywall into the room.
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post #23 of 84 Old 04-05-2017, 09:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Secured the electrical pipe in place and then painstakingly wrapped each intersection with framing in neoprene to prevent any unwanted rattles when the bass kicks in. I'll insulate the ceiling and shared walls tomorrow.

If anyone is following, I hope they are getting something out of this
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post #24 of 84 Old 04-06-2017, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
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Secured the electrical pipe in place and then painstakingly wrapped each intersection with framing in neoprene to prevent any unwanted rattles when the bass kicks in. I'll insulate the ceiling and shared walls tomorrow.

If anyone is following, I hope they are getting something out of this
I am since we are in similar stages and similar size.

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post #25 of 84 Old 04-06-2017, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Foamfactory 1/16" rolls of neoprene are dirt cheap and work amazingly well at stopping rattles if you needed to safeguard anything. Anywhere two different things are touching each other in the framing of the room, i'm wrapping them in it.
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post #26 of 84 Old 04-07-2017, 04:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Insulation started. A couple pics showing how a flexible metal vent tube went from making a hollow squeak sound every time i touched it (and it rubbed against something) to now sounding completely dead.
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post #27 of 84 Old 04-07-2017, 06:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Came home to a big surprise, i didnt know the contractor was doing the false floor today. Spray adhesive between the boards and foam, then glue and nails between the 3/4" tongue and groove osb and the boards. He even left a small gap all around to the framing like i asked. I'll fill that in with silicone tomorrow.

Even though the floor is completely floating, it feels solid with no bounce. The foam is very dense and very resilient. When the bass hits though, i know it's going to RUMBLE! There's no lights in here now, they got it ready for drywall on monday, but i snapped a couple pics with flash.
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post #28 of 84 Old 04-09-2017, 11:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Owens Corning makes a less expensive alternative to Roxul's Safe'nSound mineral wool batts called Thermafiber, and it is 1/2" thicker. Even at this cheaper price though, these companies are making a killing. I used to be in the filtration industry and i was always searching for less expensive textile fibers to use, and mineral wool was always rock bottom cost, like $0.07 per pound in bulk. It seems like all they are adding is an acrylic binder to hold it together. But hey, more power to them.

I'll be using these in my ceiling joists and will wrap the hvac vents in neoprene.
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post #29 of 84 Old 04-10-2017, 07:07 AM - Thread Starter
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I guess this only gets interesting when done? Lol

I pounded every tray frame and ceiling joist to ensure no rattling and discovered the can light housings were making some noise. I caulked up a couple seems and they became silent.

Then i insulated the ceiling with mineral wool and fiberglass.
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post #30 of 84 Old 04-10-2017, 05:59 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll keep documenting this journey. All the drywall got put up today and i love the tray ceiling. The windows have a ledge for what will now be 6" thick absorption panels over tje blackout shades. The media rack gors in the walk in closet, it won't stay there.

I love the width of the hallway leading to the theater room too, it will look nice with the double doors.
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