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post #1 of 74 Old 03-18-2017, 08:29 PM - Thread Starter
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My Completed Theater but looking for Improvement Suggestions

I've been lurking for a while so I think it's time I started a thread to get some feedback from the pro's on if I'm heading in the right direction or things I'm not considering. Here's my current theater setup and I think you'll agree I pretty much nailed it on the important features. Projector is an Epson 5040UB. As you can see I have a wispier quiet beverage refrigerator installed right next to the main seating area. As far as seating, I went with a theme. I know theme rooms are difficult to pull off but I believe I captured to true essence of Archie Bunker in my seating choice. I believe there are some slight changes I can make to this space to further improve it so here we go. Currently:




The main goal is just to have a nice movie room for the family. I have a 70" Visio with a Yamaha 5.1 surround now but its near my daughter's room so I'm always worried about it being too loud. I just got my Epson 5040UB today and I'm blown away. This is my first projector and my only real reference is my brother in-law's 10 year old non-HD projector. So here's the space I'm working with, it has 9' ceilings:




My big concerns are what to do before closing up the walls. I want to future proof the room before drywall with the sound proofing and flexibility for future audio equipment. 3 of the 4 walls are 10" concrete with .5" foam then 2x4's. Should I put insulation in here for sound quality or will it not make a difference? Right now I wasn't going to fill them with insulation.

Also,I'd like to bury audio cable now even if I don't use it. I'm not sure the ideal locations though. I really like the biggest screen possible and as pictured here is a 175" 2.35:1 picture. You can see it takes up the whole wall and doesn't leave much room for audit equipment. Should I put the speakers at the top and bottom or should I shrink the screen cause I don't know what I'm doing and am just blown away by the big picture quality?




For seating I was going to put an L shaped couch along the back and side walls. I know that's not ideal for sound quality but I thought spacing a couch 4' off the back wall would look funny. Movie style seats are out of the question due to the wife. Looking for suggestions.

And finally the only thing I have figured out is the ceiling. I'm doing a coffered ceiling with strip RGB LED's. The center will be a fiber optic star ceiling. I ordered a 600 count kit for a space that's 151" x 80" The projector will be ceiling mounted in a box



Let me know what you think. As you can see I pretty much have a blank canvas. I'm pretty happy with my Archie Bunker chair and my 175" picture protected on blue insulation foam so I know it can only get better from here.
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post #2 of 74 Old 03-20-2017, 04:44 PM
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Subscribed so I can see all the fun ideas and arm chair

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post #3 of 74 Old 03-20-2017, 08:56 PM
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Strictly set on solid screen against the wall I suppose regarding speaker placements?
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post #4 of 74 Old 03-21-2017, 09:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post
Strictly set on solid screen against the wall I suppose regarding speaker placements?

For right now I think I'm going to project on a painted wall. I'm not sure exactly what screen size I want. So a painted wall gives me the flexibility to play with the zoom until I figure out what works best for my room and tastes. Since I'm not doing multiple row seating I was thinking of putting 2 speakers on each side of the screen then a center channel on the floor middle of the screen.

Also I'm not sure if I have the room for an AT screen since I'd want to pack out the whole wall and I have that door in the front left of the room. So that really limits the depth to <6" If I remove the drywall in spots that puts me about 9.5" depth
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post #5 of 74 Old 03-22-2017, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by OriginalWhitey View Post
... I'm always worried about it being too loud.
... Should I put insulation in here for sound quality or will it not make a difference? Right now I wasn't going to fill them with insulation.
Absolutely fill those cavities. All cavities will have a resonant frequency. Absorb as much as you can and lower that resonant as low as you can get it by filling with standard fluffy insulation, or do what I did, and fill them full of Roxul Safe and Sound.

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Originally Posted by OriginalWhitey View Post
Also,I'd like to bury audio cable now even if I don't use it. I'm not sure the ideal locations though. I really like the biggest screen possible and as pictured here is a 175" 2.35:1 picture. You can see it takes up the whole wall and doesn't leave much room for audit equipment. Should I put the speakers at the top and bottom or should I shrink the screen cause I don't know what I'm doing and am just blown away by the big picture quality?
Why bury the cables, unless they are for Atmos speakers, however, i would bury them in the ceiling with backer boxes already installed. If you are doing DTS:X or Auro3D, then i would still install the backer boxes as needed, and then do as you said, pull the cables and cover them with the drywall until you are ready to 'upgrade' and add additional speaker layouts.
As far as the screen size and speaker locations. There are standard layouts that AVS'ers have been following, and trying to stay true to the spec's, however, there are discussions based on content and the off-screen queues that indicated some compelling reasons to put the speakers to the sides of the screen. Spec's say to have the speakers behind an AT screen. additional, if you do an AT screen, the center will be basically in the middle of the screen, exactly where 90% of voices come from.

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For seating I was going to put an L shaped couch along the back and side walls. I know that's not ideal for sound quality but I thought spacing a couch 4' off the back wall would look funny. Movie style seats are out of the question due to the wife. Looking for suggestions.
It;s beeen recommended to at least get the couch off the wall. 4' is a little much, and I agree with you, I am trying to get 2 ' for my back row off the wall. It will help with the overall encompassing of the surround sound field when you are off the wall.

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And finally the only thing I have figured out is the ceiling. I'm doing a coffered ceiling with strip RGB LED's. The center will be a fiber optic star ceiling. I ordered a 600 count kit for a space that's 151" x 80" The projector will be ceiling mounted in a box
Good luck, those are F.O systems are allot of work. Personally i am not a fan of the light pollution, I am more in sync with a subtle NightSky Mirals paint job if i were to do one, however, I am using my ceiling for acoustic treatments.

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Let me know what you think. As you can see I pretty much have a blank canvas. I'm pretty happy with my Archie Bunker chair and my 175" picture protected on blue insulation foam so I know it can only get better from here.
Install all the things that you know you do not want to go back and try to have to reinstall.
I would recommend also the following items.
0) read as many threads as you can on AVS.
1) dedicated power to your equipment rack, not just the room power.
2) lower the overall noise floor by sound proofing as much as possible and that your budget will allow.
3) install based on speaker layout specifications. Example, Dolby Atmos.
4) make sure you have a HVAC supply and return in the room.
5) make drawings of what you want to see, and or have other people do for you. your floor plan is a good start.
6) make sure your lighting is adequate for your likings.
..i'm sure there are more but my fingers hurt from my build. no more typing.

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post #6 of 74 Old 03-22-2017, 09:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Absolutely fill those cavities. All cavities will have a resonant frequency. Absorb as much as you can and lower that resonant as low as you can get it by filling with standard fluffy insulation, or do what I did, and fill them full of Roxul Safe and Sound.



Why bury the cables, unless they are for Atmos speakers, however, i would bury them in the ceiling with backer boxes already installed. If you are doing DTS:X or Auro3D, then i would still install the backer boxes as needed, and then do as you said, pull the cables and cover them with the drywall until you are ready to 'upgrade' and add additional speaker layouts.
As far as the screen size and speaker locations. There are standard layouts that AVS'ers have been following, and trying to stay true to the spec's, however, there are discussions based on content and the off-screen queues that indicated some compelling reasons to put the speakers to the sides of the screen. Spec's say to have the speakers behind an AT screen. additional, if you do an AT screen, the center will be basically in the middle of the screen, exactly where 90% of voices come from.



It;s beeen recommended to at least get the couch off the wall. 4' is a little much, and I agree with you, I am trying to get 2 ' for my back row off the wall. It will help with the overall encompassing of the surround sound field when you are off the wall.



Good luck, those are F.O systems are allot of work. Personally i am not a fan of the light pollution, I am more in sync with a subtle NightSky Mirals paint job if i were to do one, however, I am using my ceiling for acoustic treatments.



Install all the things that you know you do not want to go back and try to have to reinstall.
I would recommend also the following items.
0) read as many threads as you can on AVS.
1) dedicated power to your equipment rack, not just the room power.
2) lower the overall noise floor by sound proofing as much as possible and that your budget will allow.
3) install based on speaker layout specifications. Example, Dolby Atmos.
4) make sure you have a HVAC supply and return in the room.
5) make drawings of what you want to see, and or have other people do for you. your floor plan is a good start.
6) make sure your lighting is adequate for your likings.
..i'm sure there are more but my fingers hurt from my build. no more typing.
thanks for the response. I've been lurking for a while and reading as much as I can. When it comes to screen sizes and sound systems, I read the standards but then alot of person preference plays into it. So I really want to set it up to expand and adjust for my future, "I wish the bass was better, or this screen size is too big, ect"...

-You answered my question about filling the walls which I will now do. Makes sense to eliminate the resonance

-Seating, Spacing it 2' off the back wall is definitely an option and I'll plan on doing that.

-the burying speaker wire is for the future upgrade to Atmos. Probably going to start out with 5.1. I'm still researching is the sound system. the main goal is to not have the whispers and explosions effect where you can't hear what they are saying so you have to turn it up then the next scene is an explosion that blows your ears out.

-As far as the star ceiling, I was going to use black velvet which will help with the sound and light absorption. With the stars off you wouldn't be able to tell they were there. Plus with the option of dimming I can dial them back to not be a distraction. I went with the start ceiling cause I think my daughter will like the twinkling of the lights, something you can't get from a mural.

-I'll run 2 20A circuits to the room. That'll be 4800W. should be more than enough power.
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post #7 of 74 Old 03-22-2017, 01:38 PM
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My room is about the same dimensions as yours and I am not able to get an image of that size on the screen with my projector. Unless I am reading your post wrong, you want a 175" image. The challenge is that, even with a long throw lens, you can't physically place the projector back far enough to get an image that size in a room with those dimensions. The largest I've been able to get is about 110" diagonally. Your best bet (since it's new construction) is to mount the projector and see what is the largest focused screen image you can get. The other thing you may want to consider is an AT screen and a curved one at that. Two options that would give you a more immersive experience and allow for better speaker placement. Finally, you may also want to look at some internet direct companies for speakers (e.g. Tekton Designs Pendragon). There are now far better options available online and the sound is amazing for the price.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jish9 View Post
My room is about the same dimensions as yours and I am not able to get an image of that size on the screen with my projector. Unless I am reading your post wrong, you want a 175" image. The challenge is that, even with a long throw lens, you can't physically place the projector back far enough to get an image that size in a room with those dimensions. The largest I've been able to get is about 110" diagonally. Your best bet (since it's new construction) is to mount the projector and see what is the largest focused screen image you can get. The other thing you may want to consider is an AT screen and a curved one at that. Two options that would give you a more immersive experience and allow for better speaker placement. Finally, you may also want to look at some internet direct companies for speakers (e.g. Tekton Designs Pendragon). There are now far better options available online and the sound is amazing for the price.


I think you could get a 175" image on his wall IF it was in 2.35:1 cinescope not 16:9. I have a very similar sized room 19'L x 15'W x 7'4"H and since I am height limited I am choosing to get a 2:35 screen at 140"diagonal. His room is 14'8" wide which equals 176". For example a Seymour screen 3F170WS is 176.7" wide x 78.4" high including the frame which yields a viewable 184.5" diagonal and can be "cut down" to 175" diagonal for no charge. Which would give him about 4" of space on either side of the screen frame. Plus the OP is already projecting that size on his wall in the posted pictures.


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post #9 of 74 Old 03-22-2017, 03:42 PM
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@OriginalWhitey you now have me thinking about planning for a bigger screen than 140". Thank you! Btw. At what distance do you have your projector from your "screen"?


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post #10 of 74 Old 03-22-2017, 04:13 PM
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Subscribed as I am lurking and looking to build one myself soon. You've got some fantastic ideas, but that whisper quiet fridge you have there must have broken the bank... if we could all be so lucky!

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I think you could get a 175" image on his wall IF it was in 2.35:1 cinescope not 16:9. I have a very similar sized room 19'L x 15'W x 7'4"H and since I am height limited I am choosing to get a 2:35 screen at 140"diagonal. His room is 14'8" wide which equals 176". For example a Seymour screen 3F170WS is 176.7" wide x 78.4" high including the frame which yields a viewable 184.5" diagonal and can be "cut down" to 175" diagonal for no charge. Which would give him about 4" of space on either side of the screen frame. Plus the OP is already projecting that size on his wall in the posted pictures.


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Hmmm...I wonder what I am doing wrong. I have a 2:35 screen and have the projector set back about 17 feet from the screen, but can only manage to get a 110" max picture. This has always bothered me as well as I felt like I was missing something in my setup. That being said, how can you sit that close to a 176" screen?! If I can get a bigger screen, then I am open to the idea. My room measures 19.5'x13.5'. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions? Setup is a Runco 750i with an anamorphic lens.
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I think the problem you are going to run into with speaker placement is that without an AT screen if you want your final screen size the full width of the room as it appears in your photo that severely limits speaker placement to above and below which isn't really ideal. No with the door right there next to the screen area that pretty much rule out an AT screen far enough from the wall for speaker placement behind the screen. Have you considered not going the full width so as to allow you to place the left and right channels to each side of the projection area? you could mount the center channel above the screen to the wall and angle it towards the MLP, its not ideal but should work well enough or you could do the same on the floor.

You would also want to move the couch far enough from the wall so that you can get proper placement of your surround channels as well as the door would get in the way of proper placement of the left surround. To keep it from looking odd you could always build a nearfield sub cabinet to place behind the couch disguised as a table of some sorts. and pair that with a couple subs up front by the screen.
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post #13 of 74 Old 03-22-2017, 05:44 PM
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Why do you want a huge screen? One day that projector won't be nearly as bright, and that image will be less vibrant.

You could go AT screen and make that whole screen wall basically removable, if that closet isn't something needing a ton of short term access.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jish9 View Post
My room is about the same dimensions as yours and I am not able to get an image of that size on the screen with my projector. Unless I am reading your post wrong, you want a 175" image. The challenge is that, even with a long throw lens, you can't physically place the projector back far enough to get an image that size in a room with those dimensions. The largest I've been able to get is about 110" diagonally. Your best bet (since it's new construction) is to mount the projector and see what is the largest focused screen image you can get. The other thing you may want to consider is an AT screen and a curved one at that. Two options that would give you a more immersive experience and allow for better speaker placement. Finally, you may also want to look at some internet direct companies for speakers (e.g. Tekton Designs Pendragon). There are now far better options available online and the sound is amazing for the price.


The room is 20'8" and the last picture with the 2.35:1 image is a 175" diagonal measurement from top right to bottom left. That's with using the zoom of the Epson projector. You can see the 16' wide room its only got a foot or soon each size of the projected image. But that's why I bought the projector before the room was complete so I could lay out the screen size on the capability of the projector

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@OriginalWhitey you now have me thinking about planning for a bigger screen than 140". Thank you! Btw. At what distance do you have your projector from your "screen"?


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Like mentioned above. The room is 20'8". Projected with the images shown above is back of the room minus 2 to 2.5 feet. So I'd imagine the final throw distance would be around 18 1/2' which can do a 175" screen at max zoom

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Subscribed as I am lurking and looking to build one myself soon. You've got some fantastic ideas, but that whisper quiet fridge you have there must have broken the bank... if we could all be so lucky!
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I think the problem you are going to run into with speaker placement is that without an AT screen if you want your final screen size the full width of the room as it appears in your photo that severely limits speaker placement to above and below which isn't really ideal. No with the door right there next to the screen area that pretty much rule out an AT screen far enough from the wall for speaker placement behind the screen. Have you considered not going the full width so as to allow you to place the left and right channels to each side of the projection area? you could mount the center channel above the screen to the wall and angle it towards the MLP, its not ideal but should work well enough or you could do the same on the floor.

You would also want to move the couch far enough from the wall so that you can get proper placement of your surround channels as well as the door would get in the way of proper placement of the left surround. To keep it from looking odd you could always build a nearfield sub cabinet to place behind the couch disguised as a table of some sorts. and pair that with a couple subs up front by the screen.
I guess that's the dillemia I'm at now. It's a trade off between screen size and speaker placement. I have plenty of room to put a center channel low directly in the middle of the screen (aka on the floor) and the L&R channel mounted high right in the corner. I don't have speakers picked out yet so I'm not sure about size.

As far as couch placement I'm getting close to drawing something up with speaker placement.

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Why do you want a huge screen? One day that projector won't be nearly as bright, and that image will be less vibrant.

You could go AT screen and make that whole screen wall basically removable, if that closet isn't something needing a ton of short term access.

I take screen size questions like when someone asks a car guy "why do you want that much horsepower?" Right, wrong, or indifferent I relate screen size with the awesomeness of a theater. Bigger the better. After seeing the quality of the Epson 5040 projected on sub-par blue foam and be blown away by the picture quality at 175." And this wasn't at maximum brightness. When I turn it on max its too bright so there is room to grow. Again it's all relative...what looks great to me is garbage compared to some of the theaters posted on here. But I'm happy with it and my wife was really blown away too so that's all that really matters.

The future may hold an AT screen, but I'm just not at that point yet unless people throw out good suggestions on material.
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post #15 of 74 Old 03-22-2017, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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And for those lurking for screen size here's it at 16:9 ratio. I didn't measure but count the studs that are 16 o.c. That gives about a 144" width which is a 165" diagonal. These pictures are have ambient light coming into the room so it's not blacked out which I think says something about the image quality at the picture size



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post #16 of 74 Old 03-22-2017, 07:34 PM
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Why not a sofa and an occasional table right behind it? (Can't say I am a fan of near field subs, but they sure do seem to be "a thing"
lately.)

Pull a page out of BigmouthinDC's idea book perhaps? But no stage. Now the side AT walls could be fixed, and the upper
fabric panel could a fixed panel too. Need access to the closet, then lift the screen off it's cleat mounts, and then maybe some
slide bolts could secure the lower panel from behind. And move the front left speaker out of your way.

The real problem with the seating on the walls is you are right on top of the surround speakers. And the audio is going to suffer.

BTW, I like your whisper quiet refrigerator.
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Why not a sofa and an occasional table right behind it? (Can't say I am a fan of near field subs, but they sure do seem to be "a thing"
lately.)

Pull a page out of BigmouthinDC's idea book perhaps? But no stage. Now the side AT walls could be fixed, and the upper
fabric panel could a fixed panel too. Need access to the closet, then lift the screen off it's cleat mounts, and then maybe some
slide bolts could secure the lower panel from behind. And move the front left speaker out of your way.

The real problem with the seating on the walls is you are right on top of the surround speakers. And the audio is going to suffer.

BTW, I like your whisper quiet refrigerator.



I really need to put some thought into some AT like you posted. I was thinking of a 5.1 like this layout to start with. This way the sound quality wouldn't suffer if the couch is against or 2' off the backwall. But of course for upgrade purposes, speakers will be on the back wall and of course a centered seating arrangement is ideal. Right now is about planning for expansion. Moving a couch is easy for the future sound system
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post #18 of 74 Old 03-22-2017, 08:40 PM
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SeymourAV's XD material, since that got posted, while I was writing.

Horsepower is fun, but often it can handicap you. It is but one tool, in what should be a full tool box you employ. But
with that seating throw distance, big is working in your favor video-wise but is it all so fabulous when you start to
think about the whole package? The fastest car around a track isn't necessarily the one with the biggest horsepower.
Weight, tires, traction, brakes size, brake fade, and driver skill, also all factor in. As does mechanics, and the suspension
guys.

A center channel on the floor also isn't such a great idea, if you care about audio. It is yet another compromise
that huge screen is forcing on you.

I am not suggesting a tiny screen is your friend, but a bigger screen viewed further back, isn't going to be appear
any different size-wise then a smaller screen when you sit off the back wall when we're talking one row of seating.
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Now you are moving the bar design-wise in a better direction.

But the sound quality will still suffer, if seating ends up on room boundaries. 2' off the wall is better then on a wall, but I'd still
be aiming for even more separation. Not sure how it got to be general perception that seating belongs on walls, because good
interior designers often have seating off the walls.
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post #20 of 74 Old 03-23-2017, 06:42 AM
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You could place the speakers like that above and below but ideally you want them at ear level from your MLP which is why most people use an AT screen which in your situation is out of the question. Personally if it was me I would sacrifice a little on screen size to fit speakers on either side. Depending on the size of the speakers you would only need to sacrifice maybe 2 and a half feet side to side.
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Why is an AT screen already out of the question?

It might just be the design tool to visually rid the room of a closet door (assuming the OP doesn't need to be into that
service closet on a regular basis). I might be tempted to shrink the screen, to have a hinged acoustically transparent
access panel for closet access. But I'd also explore the viewing angle comfort factor, and bulb wear factor, with a big
XD screen.

That deeper AT space might also simply be a way to change the perception of the scale of the room, and be future proofing
to allow one to accommodate different speakers with ease, down the road.

I don't see a "budget" room. I see a room that has nothing but massive potential and a solid start with the 5040. A little
tempering of the initial massive screen euphoria (I get it....), with a little bit of science, but with an eye looking to maximize
screen real estate, is what I suggest.

Most guys with 20' are looking at two rows of seating and packing it in, but a single row of seating in 20' is practically a luxury.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
Why is an AT screen already out of the question?



It might just be the design tool to visually rid the room of a closet door (assuming the OP doesn't need to be into that

service closet on a regular basis). I might be tempted to shrink the screen, to have a hinged acoustically transparent

access panel for closet access. But I'd also explore the viewing angle comfort factor, and bulb wear factor, with a big

XD screen.



That deeper AT space might also simply be a way to change the perception of the scale of the room, and be future proofing

to allow one to accommodate different speakers with ease, down the road.



I don't see a "budget" room. I see a room that has nothing but massive potential and a solid start with the 5040. A little

tempering of the initial massive screen euphoria (I get it....), with a little bit of science, but with an eye looking to maximize

screen real estate, is what I suggest.



Most guys with 20' are looking at two rows of seating and packing it in, but a single row of seating in 20' is practically a luxury.


FWIW. That is what I'm doing with my room with almost the same dimensions. My wife insists on having a sectional couch so 1 row it is roughly 9'-11' from the screen.


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Quote:
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Why is an AT screen already out of the question?
It's not out of the question. for now I was just going to use a solid wall. I could upgrade to an AT screen in the future but I'm not thrilled about making the room 3' smaller. The idea does have me thinking though.


I guess it would help if I knew the speaker sizes. that's what I'm researching like crazy and still have no idea what to get. My mind is being blown with the prices of some of this stuff. I was originally thinking and still hoping $1,000 for a sound system budget. If I knew the speaker sizes it would help me plan on how much I need to pack out the wall if I was going an AT screen
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It's not out of the question. for now I was just going to use a solid wall. I could upgrade to an AT screen in the future but I'm not thrilled about making the room 3' smaller. The idea does have me thinking though.


I guess it would help if I knew the speaker sizes. that's what I'm researching like crazy and still have no idea what to get. My mind is being blown with the prices of some of this stuff. I was originally thinking and still hoping $1,000 for a sound system budget. If I knew the speaker sizes it would help me plan on how much I need to pack out the wall if I was going an AT screen
Well are you opposed to something like DIY speakers? It would get you way more bang for the buck. The thing is that is a pretty sizable room and you could EASILY eat up a $1000 budget just on a couple of subs alone. You could do something like the SVS Prime Satellite 5.1 System which is $999, or the Aperion Audio Intimus 4T Fusion SD - Stealth Black for just over a grand, its on sale at the moment $400 below normal, or the Definitive Technology - ProCinema 600 which is $799. If your handy I would lean the DIY route just because you can get way more speaker for the money but thats just me. And pair that with maybe some Bic or Dayton Audio sub just because they are cheap but preform quite well for the money. You can figure most speaker you would place behind a AT screen would be anywhere from 12" to 18" deep, thats just for speakers sub boxes tend to be larger, but those are more easily placed in the room as they would fall below the bottom of the screen.
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I'm all for diy and actually prefer it
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I'm all for diy and actually prefer it
In that case check out diysoundgroup.com most of their designs are very sensitive, over 95db/meter, which means you can power them with almost ANY avr, and they will play much louder than you would probably ever need them to. They are diy of course including building your own crossover, but they have full kits speakers, flat packs for the cabinet, and all the cross over components. You get way more speaker for your money that way and they have a ton of different models to pick from so you can pick and choose what would work in your layout and how much money you have to spend. And frankly if you look at the design of the speakers most people here use in a dedicated HT they look more like the DIYSG designs than your typical bookshelf or tower speaker. You could easily build out a 5.1 system, minus the sub although they do sell sub boxes, from there it might cost you a bit over $1000 if you go with some of the larger kits but in the end you get way more than $1000 in results.
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Any ability to assemble a flat pack cabinet and assemble a crossover kit? DIY Sound speakers might be for you then.
They will punch above their price point, and you can leverage that AT screen for a very simple flat black finish as the speakers
won't be seen.

For the record, I gave up 59" of room depth in a room 2' shorter then yours.
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I read with interest especially the screen size discussion in this thread. I too just got a 5040ub and am in the process of upgrading my Da-Lite 105" grey screen to a larger Elite cingrey 3D ALR screen. The room is not fully light controlled so the ALR feature should enhance the image even more. My only question now is whether I should go for 120" or 135" 16:9. There is no question there will still be enough brightness from this pj to do the larger size but my concern is resolution. I did try zooming the image up to about 135" size. As an avid photographer with pretty keen eyes I can easily see the resolution and contrast hits. On the other hand at around 120" size I could not tell much difference from 105". I just need to decide if I should go for the larger size that will give more wow factor but without being bothered by the somewhat less sharp image? That's the dilemma I need to resolve. I know a lot of this is personal preference but any pointer to what I might have missed would be very helpful. I appreciate comments of what you would do under this situation.
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Just a little update. Insulated the room and am starting on drywall. I didn't yet insulate the inside walls since I still have access to them:





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I read with interest especially the screen size discussion in this thread. I too just got a 5040ub and am in the process of upgrading my Da-Lite 105" grey screen to a larger Elite cingrey 3D ALR screen. The room is not fully light controlled so the ALR feature should enhance the image even more. My only question now is whether I should go for 120" or 135" 16:9. There is no question there will still be enough brightness from this pj to do the larger size but my concern is resolution. I did try zooming the image up to about 135" size. As an avid photographer with pretty keen eyes I can easily see the resolution and contrast hits. On the other hand at around 120" size I could not tell much difference from 105". I just need to decide if I should go for the larger size that will give more wow factor but without being bothered by the somewhat less sharp image? That's the dilemma I need to resolve. I know a lot of this is personal preference but any pointer to what I might have missed would be very helpful. I appreciate comments of what you would do under this situation.
I think it's all on preference. Me personally, I love the largest screen possible. Right now I'm at at 187" screen sitting about 18' back from the screen on ECO mode. I've played with all the zooms and I've never been on a smaller setting and said "wow this is so much better." The clarity looks the same to me. Can you notice a difference? The only reason I would shrink the screen size is to make room for speakers but I'm really hesitant to do that. Nobody ever went to an IMAX and said "wow did you hear that sound?" It's visual first for me. Here's projected on crappy drywall, eco mode 187" 16:9:





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So just why is there a door in the theater, when it appears you don't actually need one up front?
Could that access be framed in, outside of the room?

Have you taken into consideration just how lifeless and non dynamic a $1000 speaker setup, is
going to sound at 18'? Most systems won't have an ability to deliver at 18' of of speaker throw.

Actually, IMAX *IS* all about the audio being really important, and it being up to snuff, to
match up well, with the big immersive screen experience. Remember when they did those audio
demos before a show?

I can appreciate you are more video orientated, but don't dismiss the audio out of hand.

Don't you not notice the screen lighting up the room? An upside is you don't seem to have
anything up front that will reflect that light back onto the screen, and start destroying the contrast
ratio of your projector. But you don't have any speakers in the room, yet. So you aren't experiencing
many of the downsides of the choices you want to roll with.

You think you are seeing clarity, but you aren't sitting at a distance that the human eye can properly
resolve 1080. The best overall result isn't all about preference, but it does take personal preferences into
consideration, and applies them using science, ergonomics, and best design practices.

Maybe you don't have to shrink the image size. There are speakers that use the drywall to radiate sound.
And there are some very good products like Goo Screen paint. Now you would have a 1.3 gain screen, and
solve your speaker placement issues.
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