NXS Budget Theater Build/Conversion - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 11Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 68 Old 04-16-2017, 06:58 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
NXS Budget Theater Build

Thought I would share my budget HT build. Because the basement room was already finished and I am turning it into a dedicated HT room it actually is more of an conversion. It has been a challenge because the floor joist above are full dimensional lumber verses open truss systems. There is a lot of duct work and return air vents along with wiring.

The room is 11' wide and will be approx. 17' deep. with stairway in back corner. I will do a riser in the back with 2 rows of either 2 or 3 seats in each. The screen will be a DIY spandex approx. 120". I already own a Epson 5030UB. Other equipment owned Denon 4520 and Outlaw X12's.

So far I have built the front stage for the screen wall to be built on, made cutout in wall for equipment, cut holes for can lights and installed part of them, and ran conduit through return air vent and installed j-box for projector power and cables.

I will be selling my Outlaw X12's and start from scratch on my complete speaker system. I really like the what @LTD02 designed for @ddigler 6 sub budget build, but I will not have as much ceiling height. Main use will be for movies and a few DVD concerts. I plan on doin all DIY speakers and will have around $2500 to work with. I will definitely be needing help! lol[IMG][IMG][IMG][IMG][IMG][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG]
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20170409_154623.jpg
Views:	204
Size:	148.3 KB
ID:	2086929   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170409_181006.jpg
Views:	181
Size:	164.9 KB
ID:	2086937   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170416_084119.jpg
Views:	170
Size:	76.8 KB
ID:	2086945   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170416_084208.jpg
Views:	191
Size:	110.6 KB
ID:	2086953   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170416_084131.jpg
Views:	188
Size:	140.5 KB
ID:	2086961  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20170416_110137.jpg
Views:	519
Size:	180.8 KB
ID:	2087257  

Last edited by nxs450; 07-23-2017 at 07:27 AM.
nxs450 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 68 Old 04-16-2017, 07:42 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Have you considered making your platform the full length of the room? Mine is more an island like your design, but I really like the look of the platform being the full width.

That being said, I think you have an awesome canvas to start with. If I re-do in the future, I will add a stage and use that same design.
Beams37 is offline  
post #3 of 68 Old 04-16-2017, 08:01 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 6,629
Mentioned: 52 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1098 Post(s)
Liked: 422
Does the av rack need to go there?

Have you considered it might be distracting, when the room goes dark and the electronic displays add light
on the side wall? I would either move it towards the rear, or better yet, put it right inside the closet at the back of the room.

You could build a full width riser at step one height, and then use an island style riser to further elevate the back seats.
You'd need to extend the riser into the mechanical room to safely step down.

Budget build or not, this could be a pretty impressive room.

How tall is the room?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	FP1.jpg
Views:	112
Size:	88.2 KB
ID:	2087161  
Tedd is offline  
 
post #4 of 68 Old 04-16-2017, 08:23 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beams37 View Post
Have you considered making your platform the full length of the room? Mine is more an island like your design, but I really like the look of the platform being the full width.

That being said, I think you have an awesome canvas to start with. If I re-do in the future, I will add a stage and use that same design.
Yeah I did, but can't because of 2 door ways to closet and mechanical room.
nxs450 is offline  
post #5 of 68 Old 04-16-2017, 08:31 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
Does the av rack need to go there?

Have you considered it might be distracting, when the room goes dark and the electronic displays add light
on the side wall? I would either move it towards the rear, or better yet, put it right inside the closet at the back of the room.

You could build a full width riser at step one height, and then use an island style riser to further elevate the back seats.
You'd need to extend the riser into the mechanical room to safely step down.

Budget build or not, this could be a pretty impressive room.

How tall is the room?
I guess I could do the riser like that, but I thought it would look funny with short doors going to mech. room and closet. I haven't done the math yet on how tall riser needs to be. I don't really have other options for equipment short of cutting sheetrock out on ceiling. I used to build new homes and put a few audio racks in with smoked glass doors. I could even black it out totally if it was a problem.
nxs450 is offline  
post #6 of 68 Old 04-16-2017, 08:35 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Also wondering if I should do ceiling height fronts and rear surrounds as well or maybe just pre wire for them?
nxs450 is offline  
post #7 of 68 Old 04-16-2017, 09:07 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 6,629
Mentioned: 52 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1098 Post(s)
Liked: 422
Why can't the doors simply be moved up? If you remove the trim, door and frame, then you could cut back the drywall up top. Next cut out the header,
and replace it with new studs, secured by screws from the inside of the opening. Done carefully, you won't even impact on the drywall.

I would be prepared to black out the av rack, as there is a very good chance you will shortly consider that you made a mistake placing the av rack in the line
of sight. I learned this the hard way, and the next remodel the av rack went in the back of the room. Now it's right outside the entry door.

Glass is highly reflective also, so I wouldn't really want smoked glass up front either...

Whether I pre wired for overhead speakers or not, would be based on ceiling height. If the ceiling is low, then I wouldn't bother. But wire is cheap, as a future proofing
option.
Tedd is offline  
post #8 of 68 Old 04-16-2017, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
Why can't the doors simply be moved up? If you remove the trim, door and frame, then you could cut back the drywall up top. Next cut out the header,
and replace it with new studs, secured by screws from the inside of the opening. Done carefully, you won't even impact on the drywall.

I would be prepared to black out the av rack, as there is a very good chance you will shortly consider that you made a mistake placing the av rack in the line
of sight. I learned this the hard way, and the next remodel the av rack went in the back of the room. Now it's right outside the entry door.

Glass is highly reflective also, so I wouldn't really want smoked glass up front either...

Whether I pre wired for overhead speakers or not, would be based on ceiling height. If the ceiling is low, then I wouldn't bother. But wire is cheap, as a future proofing
option.
Only 5" between ceiling and door now including trim, so I could really only move them up 3". I may look at trying to put equipment in closet. I have return air ducts in the side wall towards back of room so can't move it back.
nxs450 is offline  
post #9 of 68 Old 04-17-2017, 03:31 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
After looking at things closer I found a way that I can get wiring in to the closet area. I cut the sheet rock out and framed it in, now I have to patch and finish the original area that I cut out. My least favorite thing to do, mud and tape.

Thanks to @Tedd pointing out the issues with having the equipment located on side wall.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20170416_163122.jpg
Views:	126
Size:	108.7 KB
ID:	2088409   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170416_163510.jpg
Views:	114
Size:	69.7 KB
ID:	2088417  
Tedd likes this.
nxs450 is offline  
post #10 of 68 Old 04-17-2017, 05:00 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 6,629
Mentioned: 52 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1098 Post(s)
Liked: 422
Any chance of exposing more of that outlet on the front wall, that the stage semi-hides? Is there room to actually be able to remove the electrical
outlet there, in case there's ever an issue with the plug?
Tedd is offline  
post #11 of 68 Old 04-17-2017, 05:10 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 6,629
Mentioned: 52 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1098 Post(s)
Liked: 422
I do like that you are keeping your seating central and not shoving it over to the wall, but this build might be of interest to you.

Tanner Ridge Cinema Construction Thread
Tedd is offline  
post #12 of 68 Old 04-17-2017, 05:42 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
Any chance of exposing more of that outlet on the front wall, that the stage semi-hides? Is there room to actually be able to remove the electrical
outlet there, in case there's ever an issue with the plug?
Yeah it is notched out where the outlet is still useable, just can't see it in the pic. Cool I will check the Tanner Ridge project out.
nxs450 is offline  
post #13 of 68 Old 04-17-2017, 05:52 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 6,629
Mentioned: 52 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1098 Post(s)
Liked: 422
I see the outlet is usable but it also needs to be accessible in terms of being serviceable.
Tedd is offline  
post #14 of 68 Old 04-19-2017, 04:25 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Progress on room, all can lights in, surround speaker wiring (pita), and 110 outlets for equipment and projector.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20170417_145829.jpg
Views:	116
Size:	149.3 KB
ID:	2092289  
nxs450 is offline  
post #15 of 68 Old 04-19-2017, 05:00 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Looks good!
Beams37 is offline  
post #16 of 68 Old 06-03-2017, 06:49 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Update pics of room. I went to a lot of trouble to hide water main shut off by building fake beams to cover it, and to follow the look in the room. I replaced the valve with a high capacity fireplace gas valve with round face plate for finished look, and can still shut water off with key. Also changed location for projector from ceiling mount, to adding in wall box above A/V location. Painted area that can be seen from room side behind A/V shelf black. Even with closet door shut and lights down I could still see light reflecting off of light colored wall.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	31wYylbFd6L.jpg
Views:	133
Size:	8.9 KB
ID:	2168658   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170513_173504.jpg
Views:	141
Size:	235.0 KB
ID:	2168666   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170514_104140.jpg
Views:	137
Size:	131.6 KB
ID:	2168674   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170520_171731.jpg
Views:	145
Size:	121.0 KB
ID:	2168682   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170514_104247.jpg
Views:	136
Size:	90.6 KB
ID:	2168690  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20170520_171750.jpg
Views:	142
Size:	140.4 KB
ID:	2168698   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170603_082956.jpg
Views:	133
Size:	131.7 KB
ID:	2168810   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170603_083004.jpg
Views:	134
Size:	148.3 KB
ID:	2168818   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170603_083117.jpg
Views:	158
Size:	103.9 KB
ID:	2168826   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170603_083126.jpg
Views:	137
Size:	105.3 KB
ID:	2168834  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20170603_083240.jpg
Views:	137
Size:	71.9 KB
ID:	2168890   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170603_083155.jpg
Views:	134
Size:	77.2 KB
ID:	2168898  
nxs450 is offline  
post #17 of 68 Old 06-09-2017, 09:44 AM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 18,908
Mentioned: 102 Post(s)
Tagged: 6 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2117 Post(s)
Liked: 960
Send a message via Skype™ to MississippiMan
Overall, a very nifty design.

I do feel the Cans directly over the Screen are wasted, since they can only be utilized when there is no image being shot....unless they are outfitted with "Wall Wash Lenses" with the Shield toward the Wall. And of course with the lights dimmed down in any case.



The Floor of the Stage will need just as effective a light rejection treatment as you have provided the Ceiling and Side Walls.

........and if Blu-Ray Movies in 2.39:1 are going to be the prevalent content, with TV secondary, then you should do the Spandex Screen in 2.39:1 format, 130" wide x 54" high, (141" diagonal) and practice a C.H.I mentality, with 16:9 @ 54" x 96" for 110" diagonal

A big benefit of doing such also being the ability to completely cover your Speaker arrays...which referencing your drawing, a 107" wide 120" diagonal screen won't be able to manage.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
MississippiMan is online now  
post #18 of 68 Old 06-10-2017, 05:20 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Overall, a very nifty design.

I do feel the Cans directly over the Screen are wasted, since they can only be utilized when there is no image being shot....unless they are outfitted with "Wall Wash Lenses" with the Shield toward the Wall. And of course with the lights dimmed down in any case.



The Floor of the Stage will need just as effective a light rejection treatment as you have provided the Ceiling and Side Walls.

........and if Blu-Ray Movies in 2.39:1 are going to be the prevalent content, with TV secondary, then you should do the Spandex Screen in 2.39:1 format, 130" wide x 54" high, (141" diagonal) and practice a C.H.I mentality, with 16:9 @ 54" x 96" for 110" diagonal

A big benefit of doing such also being the ability to completely cover your Speaker arrays...which referencing your drawing, a 107" wide 120" diagonal screen won't be able to manage.
I have the screen cans on a separate switch and only planned to use them when movie not being played, but would still like to use the baffle. I do like the idea of a 2:39:1 screen. So the only adjustment I would need to make on projector when switching between formats would be zoom and focus? The reason I ask is I won't have easy access to lens shift.
nxs450 is offline  
post #19 of 68 Old 06-10-2017, 05:26 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Tedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 6,629
Mentioned: 52 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1098 Post(s)
Liked: 422
Cans over the screen do reflect light via the screen, into the room. Rather handy come cleaning time for the theater.

And while I do agree they add nothing come viewing time, they also are great to adding entry drama, especially to the more hard core
cave like rooms. Those rooms can be a little boring looking, and lighting can be an inexpensive way to add some flair to such a space.
Tedd is offline  
post #20 of 68 Old 06-10-2017, 05:47 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Beams are in, trim is done, and carpet on stage. May have to do something different on stage like black carpet per Mississippi Mans recommendations. I already had carpet and funds are slim so will try it first.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20170610_073051.jpg
Views:	85
Size:	195.6 KB
ID:	2181817   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170610_073015.jpg
Views:	98
Size:	162.6 KB
ID:	2181825  

Last edited by nxs450; 06-10-2017 at 05:53 AM.
nxs450 is offline  
post #21 of 68 Old 06-10-2017, 07:25 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
24" oak wainscot installed, and will be installing 2'x4' acoustic panels above each panel. Side surround speakers will be placed on center of panel on each wall.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20170704_071053.jpg
Views:	75
Size:	134.6 KB
ID:	2217721  

Last edited by nxs450; 07-04-2017 at 05:30 AM.
nxs450 is offline  
post #22 of 68 Old 07-04-2017, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Wainscot done, built screen frame, and false wall. I made my own cleats out of 2x4's and put one on bottom as well. The screen is secure and snug against the false wall. I set everything up and covered screen frame with off white canvas so I could check the image. I noticed I have a reflection off the faux beams and will have to address it some how.
Anyone have any ideas? I would hate to cover them or paint them black. It isn't as noticeable when setting in the center of the room as it is in the pics.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20170704_071053.jpg
Views:	430
Size:	134.6 KB
ID:	2218953   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170704_182829.jpg
Views:	427
Size:	131.6 KB
ID:	2218961   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170704_182546.jpg
Views:	863
Size:	149.1 KB
ID:	2218969   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170704_182840.jpg
Views:	425
Size:	311.8 KB
ID:	2218977   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170704_185510.jpg
Views:	870
Size:	143.0 KB
ID:	2218985  

Click image for larger version

Name:	20170704_182917.jpg
Views:	429
Size:	146.0 KB
ID:	2218993  

Last edited by nxs450; 07-23-2017 at 07:55 AM.
nxs450 is offline  
post #23 of 68 Old 07-07-2017, 06:42 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Little Disappointed in Build

I am a little disappointed in my HT build. Some things haven't turned out like I thought they would. Because I am on a tight budget I really don't have the option to do things over. Some of my biggest issues are the faux wood beams I built to hide the water line in room. They cut the ceiling height down, and I am getting a reflection off the screen. Also the height and shape of my stage I would have built shorter and done more of a curved design.
Maybe I am to much of a perfectionist, or at least that is what my wife claims, lol.
Any input would be great!
NXS Budget Theater Build/Conversion
nxs450 is offline  
post #24 of 68 Old 07-07-2017, 07:04 AM
Senior Member
 
edge928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 235
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 88 Post(s)
Liked: 59
I think most people on these forums lean pretty heavily into the do-er/perfectionist spectrum. Looks like you started with 8' ceilings and the stage appears to be 2x12's in height plus one layer decking. Your pictures show a really nice room that most people would love to have.

Some random thoughts: Can you take the beams down and paint over the water line? Roll on some Kilz and then paint? Does the wood have a glossy finish? Anything glossy/reflective is generally a no-no in theater rooms but based on your pictures it really isn't that bad. I would consider just removing the front 2 beams that are your main problem. The only other problem to solve from here is how to transition the wainscoting. Last note, unless you put ultra black velvet all the way around the screen for ~4 feet, you will get some reflection.
edge928 is offline  
post #25 of 68 Old 07-07-2017, 07:37 AM
Senior Member
 
JCJetta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Minooka, IL
Posts: 305
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 182 Post(s)
Liked: 269
Quote:
Originally Posted by edge928 View Post
Last note, unless you put ultra black velvet all the way around the screen for ~4 feet, you will get some reflection.
Everything in life is a compromise. Certainly you could get creative with black velvet but you will lose some of the decor with your beams. My trunkline soffit which I'm still trying to incorporate into the finality of my build as part of the screen wall area had an identical reflection problem - and it was painted dark Iron Ore matte! Now with the velvet on and the lights off it completely disappears.

Depending on how much prep time you want to consume prior to pushing "PLAY" on your remote, you could fab some quick velvet panels around the dimensions of your wood beams, and quickly attach them using those little neodymium magnets - not unlike what some folks do with their screens to combat differing viewing ratios.

The bottom line though is your theater looks really cool, professional, and will be a wonderful place to enjoy movies. The balance between beauty and functionality/performance is solely your discretion.
JCJetta is online now  
post #26 of 68 Old 07-07-2017, 08:41 AM
Advanced Member
 
DaveClement's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Lynnwood, WA USA
Posts: 768
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 267 Post(s)
Liked: 165
The shape of the box beams that you built is a reasonable compromise to hide the pipe. It works nicely as a proscenium, as you would find an a real theater.

I do see what you mean about the reflections. It will help a lot if you can use a flat finish that is less reflective. At minimum, use something that still shows the wood finish, but is not glossy. Better still, you could leave the front surface of your beams in the existing wood finish and paint the sides flat black, just as you have done with all of the space behind the proscenium. This would still show off the wood, but the sides would pretty much "disappear", especially with the lights off.

OJ Bartley likes this.

Last edited by DaveClement; 07-07-2017 at 08:42 AM. Reason: Corrected second link.
DaveClement is offline  
post #27 of 68 Old 07-07-2017, 09:32 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
@DaveClement @JCJetta @edge928
Guys thanks for the compliments. My ceilings are 7'2" so about 6'2" at the stage. I can't really remove the beams without ruining the wainscot, plus where I secured them to the knock down ceiling I glued blocks of wood to it. It would mess things up pretty bad. I finished the beams with a satin lacquer, and did a fine sanding of the finish. The glare on the beams is not quite as bad when your setting in viewing areas, but it still bugs me. I thought about using velvet tape on the front of the beams, that is the part that reflects. I don't want to do anything just to patch the problem though.
I thought about pulling the stage out and rebuilding it only 6" tall with a curved front and starting at the front edge of the beams closest to the viewing side. Then I could run velvet sides straight back to the screen wall. I would have to do it on the top beam as well. I would hate to go to all the trouble and it not work out either? I might see if I can draw a picture and get your guys input on it.

Last edited by nxs450; 07-07-2017 at 05:17 PM.
nxs450 is offline  
post #28 of 68 Old 07-07-2017, 07:53 PM
Senior Member
 
Superman07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Virginia
Posts: 498
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Liked: 26
NXS Budget Theater Build/Conversion

For your reflections maybe you could try something low cost like a removable vinyl paint? Used a lot in automotive applications with of colors, matte/flat, and if you don't like it - peel off. https://plastidip.com/our-products/plasti-dip/


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Superman07 is online now  
post #29 of 68 Old 07-09-2017, 05:55 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Superman07 View Post
For your reflections maybe you could try something low cost like a removable vinyl paint? Used a lot in automotive applications with of colors, matte/flat, and if you don't like it - peel off. https://plastidip.com/our-products/plasti-dip/


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I had used satin lacquer on the beams to cut down on the gloss. I just went back over them again with a extra fine sanding sponge and the finish is as non reflective as I can get it now. I went ahead and made felt panels for screen wall and installed them, put paint canvas back on screen frame and put it back up. I put Avatar back in, and set back in main viewing position. So when watching I don't seem to notice the refection near as much as when looking at the picture. I think the picture is where I really noticed it the most, and because of the fact you don't see the depth between the beams and the screen. I'm trying to convince myself, lol!
I believe I can live with it, but I have decided to recover stage with black carpet instead of the left over stuff that I had from the room. It definitely stands out now with everything else being black. Oh well at least I got experience installing the first carpet.
nxs450 is offline  
post #30 of 68 Old 07-22-2017, 07:57 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 182
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Updates on build. I rebuilt the step on my stage with a curved step and installed black carpet. Spandex screen done and installed.[ATTACH][/ATTACH][IMG][/IMG][ATTACH][/ATTACH]
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20170715_195909.jpg
Views:	377
Size:	187.5 KB
ID:	2252337   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170721_195413.jpg
Views:	374
Size:	101.6 KB
ID:	2252345   Click image for larger version

Name:	20170721_203449.jpg
Views:	360
Size:	153.6 KB
ID:	2252433  

Last edited by nxs450; 07-22-2017 at 09:24 AM.
nxs450 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off