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post #1 of 26 Old 04-21-2017, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Cinema De Lux Build

Greetings everyone!

I started my home theater build back in Aug 2016, but I haven't been posting anything because nothing was really different than anyone else's till recently. I have always loved Art Deco and it was a dream to build my own Art Deco theater; it is finally coming true. Like many others on here, I have researched a ton online and within these forums in particular; I've been inspired by quite a few things I have found on here and adopted them for my build.


---Question not important anymore ---

Knowing I always wanted to have my own dedicated theater, I kept a bunch of home theater magazines over the years and in particular, a whole series from Home Theater Magazine. Within there was an article about the perfect room dimensions, including an excel spreadsheet calculator that will tell you what all of the room nodes are up to 300hz. Also in there was how to place your seats to minimize volume differences among the seating positions. I recreated the spreadsheet and played around with my dimensions within my available space to find what would work best. I ended up with a room 11.5 feet wide, 14.5 long and 6.8 tall, which is almost exactly what I built inside my finished space, allowing for .5" or so of variation on any dimension. One of the key seating details is to put the seats so your ears line up on an odd, not even, dimension, such as 5/9th or 1/3rd. Same with the speakers, I should place the speakers so their front baffles are on an odd dimension.

How does this theory work when your front speakers are built into the front wall, behind the screen?

Due to various design choices/limitations, my two rows of seats are at the 6/11ths and 9/11ths positions. The problem I am having is that the second row of seats has drone/boom around 50hz that the front row doesn't have. According to the spreadsheet/math, I shouldn't have a major difference at that freq at these locations; but that assumes my speakers are mounted into the room, not on the front wall. I can't move my speakers, but I do have some flexibility in my seats. Just by walking around the room, I can't seem to find a spot where both rows sound the same at that freq, drone or not. My back row is about 32" from the back wall, just an FYI. Any suggestions about what I should do to help? I will be using the Audyssey room correction built into my receiver, but I know it's best to fix as many physical problems as I can first.

Below is what my front wall looks like just to help picture it. The baffles stick out by 7 inches from the drywall.
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post #2 of 26 Old 05-03-2017, 12:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Tucked into the far corner of my basement is a six seat 11.5 foot by 14.5 foot dedicated room that I am building. My layout required rerouting half of the main trunk line for the furnace. It was still slightly in the way and required a notch in the corner of the room, which turned out to be beneficial as that little design feature makes the outside of the room look smaller and more visually appealing.

In August, I only got the outside basic room framing done.





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post #3 of 26 Old 05-03-2017, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Sharing a wall with my theater was an old cinder block bathroom. Since I was building a dedicated sound proofed room which shared a wall with the bathroom, I had to remove and rebuild the bathroom. In September I mostly just slowly removed the bathroom, and in October I resumed construction, getting the bathroom framed, the theater framed and the outside drywall up.













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Last edited by soundwave13; 05-03-2017 at 01:01 PM. Reason: Added a photo
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post #4 of 26 Old 05-03-2017, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
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In November I got a bunch more done, getting the atmos speakers built, the room sound proofed and the ceiling drywall installed. One of the goals of this room was the latest sound standard, Dolby Atmos (though since I started a few UHD movies are coming out from Sony with Auro 3D soundtracks which I am not compatible with), with a system featuring horns and big woofers to help capture that commercial cinema feel. I chose DIY Soundgroup speakers, with HTM-10s behind the screen, eight Volt-6 LX's and two Dayton RS15HO's for 7.2.4 channels. Since I had only 7 foot ceilings in the basement, I chose to build my own boxes for the height channels so they could be installed in the ceiling, flush with the drywall.

I followed the common DDW/Channel/Clips/GG technique on most of the room except for the two existing previously finished walls. Though had I known a past owner had framed the basement with 48" on center studs (...the horror!!!) and I would be tearing off those walls anyway, I would have made the room slightly larger to accommodate clips and channel on those walls too.

I blocked off two glass block windows in the theater as well.















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post #5 of 26 Old 05-03-2017, 01:26 PM - Thread Starter
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One of the things I decided to experiment with was how to keep the overhead speakers from bleeding into the upstairs since they were going to be mounted into the ceiling stud cavity. I built the boxes out of 1/2" MDF, then used left over 5/8" drywall and GG inside the boxes. Not sure how well it works since I have nothing to compare it to, but I feel better about it than a normal in-ceiling speaker in a plastic box. All of the joist cavities are filled with fiberglass.
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post #6 of 26 Old 05-03-2017, 04:33 PM
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Nice cigar box guitar! Nice build too.
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post #7 of 26 Old 05-03-2017, 08:01 PM
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Where are your subs located? Their placement is what is critical to achieving equal bass throughout the room.
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post #8 of 26 Old 05-04-2017, 07:30 AM - Thread Starter
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I was pleasantly surprised how the tone turned out with that cigar box guitar, and how many songs you can play with a three string lol.

Thank you for the comment


Regarding the bass in room, I am noticing this problem before the subs are hooked up. I will upload a photo though of the room layout and where the subs are in the next few days. Both subs are along the front wall, at different distances from room center. Room center is about 69" from side wall, but my setup is off-center in general; Seats, speakers, screen, projector, etc is centered 58" from right wall. Room is off center because I have house support post in the way.

Perhaps they will smooth out the bass once they are plugged in? I am using a used QSC GX5 to power my subs and unfortunately one channel on the amp is louder than the other, so I need to send it back for warranty repair.
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post #9 of 26 Old 05-04-2017, 08:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Continuing my work in November, I finished installing the sound proofing, got the drywall up on the ceiling and got the door installed.

Two things of note: One, the new walls I put up are decoupled from the house's existing framing via IB3 clips. Two...the door...sigh....supposed to be a solid core door. I couldn't afford to add expensive ZERO automatic seals, so I bought an external house door to use for the theater because it was seemly the easiest way to get a door with seals all the way around. It was also marketed as a solid core door.....ha....it turned out to be solid Styrofoam I'll be tossing that door eventually and buying a solid wood door to replace it before this project is finished.











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post #10 of 26 Old 05-05-2017, 10:52 AM
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Great thread! Very similar to a build I am starting to plan so I'm very interested!

What materials did you use to hang the ceiling? Is it supported by the joist overhead or resting on your walls? Are you going to box in the support beam and post?
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post #11 of 26 Old 05-05-2017, 11:43 AM - Thread Starter
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I have several more months of photos as those are only from Nov. You can see in pic 4 of Post 4, how the ceiling is supported. The two layers of drywall are hung on 25g steel hat (resilient) channel, which are support by isolation clips screwed to the joists. There is a pattern to the clips which minimizes the surface area for vibrations to reach the joists yet is sufficient to support the weight of the ceiling and soffit (not yet shown). None of the wall materials (framing, channel, drywall), physically touches any other wall; the gaps are about 1/4" wide and are filled with acoustical caulk. Everything I did was done to the designs discussed in the soundproofing thread sticky as well as the Soundproofing Company's website.....within my budget anyway, I just couldn't afford to do everything; for example not reframing the existing concrete walls, just adding more drywall and green glue to it.

Yup, the support beam is boxed in, which I have a few pictures of I'll share
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post #12 of 26 Old 05-05-2017, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundwave13 View Post
I have several more months of photos as those are only from Nov. You can see in pic 4 of Post 4, how the ceiling is supported.
I see it now. The picture was playing tricks on me and the resilient channel looked like I-beams.
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post #13 of 26 Old 05-05-2017, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundwave13 View Post
Regarding the bass in room, I am noticing this problem before the subs are hooked up. I will upload a photo though of the room layout and where the subs are in the next few days. Both subs are along the front wall, at different distances from room center.
If I understand your comments you don't have subs set up. So any bass problem you have is your main speakers playing the bass, when you set up your receiver and crossover points correctly they won't. Be sure to set your speakers to "small" in the setup.
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post #14 of 26 Old 05-08-2017, 08:38 AM - Thread Starter
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That is correct, with the subwoofers not active, my front speakers partially built into the front wall and protruding 7", set to small with a 60hz crossover, I am getting a bass drone in the second row of seats that the front row doesn't have. I can try setting my fronts to 80hz and hope the subwoofers, once I get my amp back, will fill the room more evenly. I was hoping to find out whether my room layout (with the fronts where they are and my seats at 6/11ths and 9/11ths positions is fundamentally flawed. My room mode calculator says my seats are in a great spot, but in practice something is off.
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post #15 of 26 Old 05-09-2017, 10:57 AM - Thread Starter
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In December I had this crazy thought that I would be able to practically finish my theater in the 4 weeks I had between semesters...while working full time too! Ha! In reality all I accomplished was cutting the wood for my soffets and reframing my original existing walls. In an earlier post I mentioned that I discovered my two previously finished walls were framed (quite poorly) at 48" on center! So I ripped off the existing drywall, added new framing to make everything 24" OC, re-insulated the walls with foam board, put up two layers of 5/8" drywall with GG between the DW and foam plus between the two layers of DW.

In January I ran conduit for all of my speaker wire runs, built and framed my soffets, and wired for recessed lighting.



Here is a tray I built to box in my support beam. I built this tray out of 2x2s and dimensional lumber to not only get the box as close as possible to the beam to maximize room space but also so I could hang the tray on my clips/hat channel so as to minimize vibrations. Since the beam goes through my walls and into the rest of the basement, it provided an opening for sound to escape, so I also stuffed my beam soffet with fiberglass. Unfortunately I forgot to take more pictures of this build.



















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post #16 of 26 Old 05-09-2017, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by soundwave13 View Post
In December I had this crazy thought that I would be able to practically finish my theater in the 4 weeks I had between semesters...while working full time too! Ha! In reality all I accomplished was cutting the wood for my soffets and reframing my original existing walls. In an earlier post I mentioned that I discovered my two previously finished walls were framed (quite poorly) at 48" on center! So I ripped off the existing drywall, added new framing to make everything 24" OC, re-insulated the walls with foam board, put up two layers of 5/8" drywall with GG between the DW and foam plus between the two layers of DW.

In January I ran conduit for all of my speaker wire runs, built and framed my soffets, and wired for recessed lighting.



Here is a tray I built to box in my support beam. I built this tray out of 2x2s and dimensional lumber to not only get the box as close as possible to the beam to maximize room space but also so I could hang the tray on my clips/hat channel so as to minimize vibrations. Since the beam goes through my walls and into the rest of the basement, it provided an opening for sound to escape, so I also stuffed my beam soffet with fiberglass. Unfortunately I forgot to take more pictures of this build.



















I'm no pro, but I would be happy if my room turned out like that !!
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post #17 of 26 Old 05-10-2017, 09:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Beams37! I'm definitely not a pro either, but I have a lot of patience! LOL.
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post #18 of 26 Old 05-16-2017, 12:20 PM - Thread Starter
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February saw the arrival of my speaker order from DIY Sound Group....three HTM-10s and four Volt 6-LXII's. I already got my four Volt 6's for atmos duty earlier.













I am making magnetically attached grills to give the speakers a finished and commercial look to them, so on my speaker face you can see spots where I am putting basic steel drywall/wood screws that my grills will attach to.







The speakers were sanded with 60 out to 320 so I could smooth down the edges as much as possible, coated in sanding sealer, re-sanded with 220 and 320, then painted in flat black latex paint. Seems to be pretty durable so far, with a very smooth continuous finish.
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post #19 of 26 Old 06-05-2017, 10:58 AM - Thread Starter
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In keeping with my art deco theme, I wanted to build columns that were styled appropriately and also functional to hold my surround speakers. I spent some time researching art deco design in books and online and came up with a few ideas of my own, but I really found what I was looking for on these forums Another member had just the idea I was looking for; the Downunder Sugarloaf theater had sketched out some slender art deco columns that featured disc storage inside the columns. The design was perfect for my location, build skills and available time.



I took a weekend cut out 172 pieces out of 1/2" and 3/4" MDF to make 8 columns with doors and storage shelves, didn't build them yet though.





In February I also finished my ceiling and soffets with mud and paint as well as installing my art deco air vents.







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post #20 of 26 Old 06-05-2017, 11:20 AM - Thread Starter
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For a baseboard I have seen many people use either regular baseboard, or just flat MDF, but neither of those kept the art deco theme going. Research shows black granite tile is very commonly used as the bottom of the wall trim in commercial buildings, so I headed in that direction. I priced out 12x12 black granite floor tile, and while it was affordable-ish, it was just too big. Compared to my column base height, it would look too disproportionate. However, simple black subway tile is super affordable, works with the theme and I can work with the size. Further research showed that the brand of tile sold at Home Depot breaks very cleanly with a manual tile cutter. I made my baseboard to 3" height with openings for the columns.









After that, got my carpet in; got a good deal on custom made carpet from a local carpet store:

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post #21 of 26 Old 06-05-2017, 11:40 AM
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Looks great!
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post #22 of 26 Old 06-06-2017, 05:06 PM
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This is an awesome build. Inspiration for my build in the near future.
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post #23 of 26 Old 06-12-2017, 12:47 PM - Thread Starter
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At this point I was ready to purchase a projector and install it. While I drew out the room plan on paper and it looked ok, mapping it out in the room I realized my sight lines weren't going to work given the projector location and seating locations. I choose to use the Sony 45ES based on the cost of a used unit as well as the proven performance. Due to my first row seating being only 7' from the screen, it was important to use a projector technology that had great pixel fill to avoid possible screen-door effect. Since the Sony is 18" deep I had to find a new spot to mount it otherwise I couldn't get screen size I wanted. Since I am now moving the projector back I had to move my seats back so it would clear everyone's head height.

Here I had to cut open the bulkhead where the house support beam is to make room for the new projector location. I also opened up the ceiling and extended the HDMI conduit farther back, extended the electrical outlet farther back and patched the ceiling and repainted it.



I asked a friend of mine how could I finish off this notch I created, hopefully keeping it clean and pleasing looking. He suggested I instead make it a design feature, a perfect spot to add an Art Deco motif. So I sketched up a few ideas, bought some 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" thick hobby wood strips, cut them and glued them together then attached them to my bulkhead with LocTite instant-tack construction adhesive.









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post #24 of 26 Old 06-12-2017, 02:35 PM
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This room is going to look really nice when all finished. Love the style of it.
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post #25 of 26 Old 06-27-2017, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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During the rest of the month of March I started building my decorative columns with built in video storage. There is a total of 8 columns and half of them will contain the side and rear surround speakers.

First I started by drilling the holes for the shelf pegs....all 1,152 of them! I used a Krieg jig to do it.



Then I glued the detail panels on the sides



Then I glued the column together



Then I covered the column in two coats of sanding sealer, sanded it with 400 grit sand paper, painted the column and installed it



Given the time I had available each night, it took about a week per column to build, seal, sand, paint and install...so 8 columns...8 weeks...
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post #26 of 26 Old 06-27-2017, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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While that was going on, I ordered my screen from Seymour AV....an UF acoustically transparent model 103" diagonally in 16:9 format. I also installed my front speakers into my front wall. In order to maximize projector throw distance as well as seating distance, I needed every available inch; so I cut open my front walls and mounted my speakers in the wall, with a foam backing so they don't actually touch the poured concrete. This gained me 2.5 inches of projector throw distance.

The speakers are sitting in the wall on a shelf which is screwed to a 2x4 which is screwed to studs.









Since the speakers are behind a screen and inside of and on the walls, for acoustical reasons I covered the screen area with acoustical tile bought from Auralex on Amazon



For reference, having the tile installed with the acoustically transparent Seymour AV UF screen just 1" in front of the speakers, I can hear no detriment to the sound caused by the closeness of the screen.
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