20x14.5 Theater Room - $25K-$30K Budget - Need Advice - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 38 Old 10-04-2017, 01:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
Why on earth would you put a cabinet under the screen ? When have you ever seen a cabinet with blinking lights below the screen in a theater ? Never. You are thinking like this is just a large TV, instead of an actual home theater. AV equipment racks go on the side or in the rear of the room, not under the screen. In your room, several people have suggested that shelves over the wet bar or rebuilding the wet bar area to split it between a narrower wet bar and new narrow vertical rack space is the way to go.
Since I'm not doing a whole screen wall, I was thinking it would be easier to go this route:





Rather than buying a separate rack for just A/V equipment and then having to route all the wiring from the wet bar area.
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-Rahul
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post #32 of 38 Old 10-04-2017, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbpatel98 View Post
Rather than buying a separate rack for just A/V equipment and then having to route all the wiring from the wet bar area.
You realize you will still need to route HDMI cable and speakers wires to the rear of the room, right ? How is it simpler to have equipment under the screen ? Your example photos all illustrate why you should not want to do that. Those screens are all too high and limit the size of the screen. Remember, you want at least 1/3rd of the screen height to be below your seated eye level.

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post #33 of 38 Old 10-04-2017, 03:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
You realize you will still need to route HDMI cable and speakers wires to the rear of the room, right ? How is it simpler to have equipment under the screen ? Your example photos all illustrate why you should not want to do that. Those screens are all too high and limit the size of the screen. Remember, you want at least 1/3rd of the screen height to be below your seated eye level.
My thinking was that I would avoid having to route L/C/R, subwoofer, speaker wire and purchasing an IR eye / blaster. I figured I could run the HDMI + remaining speaker wires up the front wall behind the screen/curtain or in a column and to the back inside the soffit. But I hear your point about the screen being too high. I'm not totally tied to having the equipment up front. Having the screen at the right height would take precedence.

On a side note my contractor has started working on the tray ceiling. Here is a demo piece he created for me:



I believe he's building it based of off this photo from this post:



Open to feedback if there are issues with this design!

Thanks!
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-Rahul

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post #34 of 38 Old 10-15-2017, 03:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Progress...

2017-10-05 - Pop out at doorway entrance removed


2017-10-10 - Soffit framed (slight arch in front)



2017-10-12 - Riser (in progress) - 144" x 80"




My contractor is going to finish up the riser and then start on the stage next. Just learning my way around SketchUp but this is where I'm headed with it:
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post #35 of 38 Old 10-15-2017, 04:10 PM - Thread Starter
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I still haven't settled on my screen size yet. I'm now looking at the Silver Ticket 2.35 138" diagonal (130.75" width) screen now. I'm putting my front and rear rows at 11' and 17.5' ft from the screen respectively. That would put them at 1.0x and 1.6x screen width respectively. If I knock it down to a 125" diagonal (117.625" width) screen that would put the rows at 1.12x and ~1.79x screen width.

Looking at this diagram it seems like I should be okay either way:



Does that seem reasonable? I'm definitely feeling a little dense about screen size / projector setup. My understanding is that the BenQ HT2050 can be zoomed in for the 2.35 screen but wouldn't have enough lens shift capability to zoom out for a 16:9 picture. I may switch up to a JVC RS420 or Epson 5040UB if I need to. But ideally I could stick with the BenQ and then upgrade a year or 2 later when native 4K prices come down.

Any thoughts?

-Rahul
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post #36 of 38 Old 10-15-2017, 05:15 PM
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you are right that projector does not have the zoom range to hit the screen for both 2.35 and 16:9 from the same location. Here are the numbers for a 138 inch diagonal screen

to hit the full wide of the screen for 2.35 content the lens to screen needs to be 12' 3" to 15"11"
to fit a 16:9 image on a 53 inch tall screen it needs to be 9' ft to 11"9"

If you position the lens at 12' 3" 4% of a 16:9 image will spill of the top/bottom edge of the screen onto the black border. Something you might be able to live with. But I'm not sure how the projector location would work.
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post #37 of 38 Old 10-15-2017, 08:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
you are right that projector does not have the zoom range to hit the screen for both 2.35 and 16:9 from the same location. Here are the numbers for a 138 inch diagonal screen

to hit the full wide of the screen for 2.35 content the lens to screen needs to be 12' 3" to 15"11"
to fit a 16:9 image on a 53 inch tall screen it needs to be 9' ft to 11"9"

If you position the lens at 12' 3" 4% of a 16:9 image will spill of the top/bottom edge of the screen onto the black border. Something you might be able to live with. But I'm not sure how the projector location would work.
Thanks @BIGmouthinDC . I'm trying to confirm how you got 12' 3" to 15' 11". Given a 138" 2.35 screen, that comes out to 127" width, 54" height. Plugging that into width field of the projector calculator for the BenQ HT2050 at 16:9, I'm getting 12' 2" to 15' 10" which is close to what you said. To project 16:9 @ 54" height it is showing 9' 2" to 12'. Where did you get the 53" height from?

-Rahul
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post #38 of 38 Old Yesterday, 05:39 AM
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I use the calculator at Projection Central, they use a 2.39:1 ratio screen in their calculator. I just put 138 in the diagonal box. So you are probably right, put the lens at exactly 12'1" and it might work. Not a lot of flexibility.
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