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post #931 of 964 Old 11-20-2014, 11:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by triplejs15 View Post
I'm planning on purchasing the ridged saw you have in the back ground, is there a reason you moved away from it ?
It lacked a riving knife with no way of adding one. Plus the saw had poor dust collection and lacked the power to rip 8/4 hardwood.
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post #932 of 964 Old 11-21-2014, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by GPowers View Post
It lacked a riving knife with no way of adding one. Plus the saw had poor dust collection and lacked the power to rip 8/4 hardwood.
I see, I'm not a pro, but I'm hoping the R4512 would work for my needs.
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post #933 of 964 Old 11-21-2014, 01:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triplejs15 View Post
I see, I'm not a pro, but I'm hoping the R4512 would work for my needs.
Riving knife is a safety feature that helps prevent the wood getting pinched and kicking back at you. You should ONLY buy a table saw if it has a riving knife.
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post #934 of 964 Old 11-21-2014, 01:47 PM
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Interesting, I thought the RF4512 had that feature, anti-kickback.
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post #935 of 964 Old 11-21-2014, 02:16 PM
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post #936 of 964 Old 11-21-2014, 02:29 PM - Thread Starter
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The ridge at anti-kick back might be claws that grab the wood. The guard over the blade might have a riving knife but a true riving knife is also there when there is no guard on the saw.
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post #937 of 964 Old 11-21-2014, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by GPowers View Post
The ridge at anti-kick back might be claws that grab the wood. The guard over the blade might have a riving knife but a true riving knife is also there when there is no guard on the saw.

I see makes sense, maybe looking at a different saw than you had, the R4512 has a riving blade on it.

Page 26, It's part of the main assembly, not attached to the guard etc. Sorry for the confusion!

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdf...6092afdbd3.pdf
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post #938 of 964 Old 11-21-2014, 04:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triplejs15 View Post
I see makes sense, maybe looking at a different saw than you had, the R4512 has a riving blade on it.

Page 26, It's part of the main assembly, not attached to the guard etc. Sorry for the confusion!

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdf...6092afdbd3.pdf
Yep this is a newer model that has a true riving knife and better dust collection. Good luck and be safe
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post #939 of 964 Old 11-21-2014, 04:00 PM
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Thanks!
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post #940 of 964 Old 11-23-2014, 06:21 AM
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Any updates Greg? I'm interested in your opinion on the 7702 for sure as I might sell my Yamaha Pre/Pro to support the new Atmos format. What Amp did you purchase I see the Outlaw box so I have to assume that is what you are going to use? I have a Parasound A31 for my front three and looking at options for the balance of the 8 other speakers to run a 7.2.4 setup. Much to consider for sure. Looking forward to your updates as I'm following you lead moving forward.

David
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post #941 of 964 Old 11-23-2014, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Had a minor set back last week. One of the Polk LS-700 had a crossover short. So it took the better part of the week to get the RMA and then return the speaker and get a new one. I get very fast shipping from Polk. If I order by noon I will get it the next day by 2PM. But it still took 5 days

I used the Outlaw 7700. I wanted to use the Marantz power amp but it dose not support 4ohm speakers. All my original 5.2 Polk LSi speakers are 4ohm.

The ceiling speakers are channeled through the old Sony receiver using the 5.1 inputs. The ceiling speakers were not part of the original plan. The plan was just replace an 14 year old Sony receiver, get Dolby TrueHD and add the rear channels for 7.2. Atmos was just a bonus.

I have done several equalization run througs and we have watched one Atmos enabled movie and one non-Atmos movie. The most encouraging thing was my wife commented on how much BETTER the theater sounded.

I also bought the Marantz blu-ray player to get an integrated WiFi remote control on my iPad mini, which is so much better then IR.

Last edited by GPowers; 11-23-2014 at 01:24 PM.
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post #942 of 964 Old 11-23-2014, 08:07 PM
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Do you mind explaining how you setup everything through the 7700 ?
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post #943 of 964 Old 11-24-2014, 10:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triplejs15 View Post
Do you mind explaining how you setup everything through the 7700 ?
The front L/R, center, surrounds L/R, and Rear L/R all connect to the seven chanels in the Outlaw 7700 using the balanced connection and XLR cables.

The ceiling channels Front High L/R and the Rear High L/R all connect to the old Sony receiver using the 5.1 inputs. So here I used the RCA out from the Pre amp to the front L/R and the surrounds L/R of he 5.1 inputs of the Sony receiver. I run the Sony receiver at 50 volume and use the pre amp to control the volume for all the channels. So the Sony receiver is being used as a power amp for the ceiling channels.

Last edited by GPowers; 11-24-2014 at 10:27 AM.
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post #944 of 964 Old 11-24-2014, 12:40 PM
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So how are the ceiling going to get/process/ output atmos ?
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post #945 of 964 Old 11-24-2014, 04:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by triplejs15 View Post
So how are the ceiling going to get/process/ output atmos ?
Everything is processed by the AV7702. The Bluray audio comes across an HDMI cable to the AV7702. All the pre-outputs, from the AV7702, go to either the Outlaw 7700 or the old Sony. The Sony receiver is just being used a a power amp, just like the Outlaw 7700. Eventually the sony receiver will be replaced by an outlaw 7500 (five channel power amp).
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post #946 of 964 Old 11-24-2014, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by GPowers View Post
Everything is processed by the AV7702. The Bluray audio comes across an HDMI cable to the AV7702. All the pre-outputs, from the AV7702, go to either the Outlaw 7700 or the old Sony. The Sony receiver is just being used a a power amp, just like the Outlaw 7700. Eventually the sony receiver will be replaced by an outlaw 7500 (five channel power amp).
Ah, make sense now!
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post #947 of 964 Old 12-07-2014, 05:14 PM
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Back when I built my theater the wood frames were the best approach. The fiberglass I used was not rigid, so it would not hold the fabric. Plastic tracks are a good alternative, but back in the day they were not available to the DIYer. Today the plastic track are available to the DYIer.



So if you do not want to build all the wood frames look at plastic track systems

Are you using anything like Owens Corning 703/705 ?
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post #948 of 964 Old 12-08-2014, 09:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Are you using anything like Owens Corning 703/705 ?
Yes Linacoustic® by Johns Manville. It came in a 4 foot by 100 feet roll. AT first I was going to use the Corning 703. T sourced the 703 through my local Home Depot but a few months later when I went back to buy it HD no longer sold the Corning 703..
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post #949 of 964 Old 12-08-2014, 11:07 AM
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Yes Linacoustic® by Johns Manville. It came in a 4 foot by 100 feet roll. AT first I was going to use the Corning 703. T sourced the 703 through my local Home Depot but a few months later when I went back to buy it HD no longer sold the Corning 703..

Being in a roll, is as rigid as the 703 ? I have young kids and I don't want them pushing in the fabric and messing it up.
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post #950 of 964 Old 12-08-2014, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Being in a roll, is as rigid as the 703 ? I have young kids and I don't want them pushing in the fabric and messing it up.
it is not as rigid.

I have 4 grand kids that have all grown up with the theater. The oldest is 11 now. But even when there were very young, we never had any problems.
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post #951 of 964 Old 02-15-2015, 01:46 PM
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Sharing my finished panels with thanks

GPowers .. I just wanted to thank you for the inspiration to build my own fabric panels that borrow heavily from your design. Last week I finally finished painting and mounting my screen and took some pictures to share. My panels are hybrid MDF and plywood like yours with GOM fabric. However, unlike yours, I chose to separate my panel groupings with fake columns some of which hide the wiring for the side floor mounted surrounds (which you don't actually see in this picture). I pre-cut the wood; then glued and air nailed the frames together in a jig to keep them square but I bevelled the edges using my table saw instead of a router like you. The panel column closest to the front speakers are my first reflection point and are filled with that yellow compressed fibreglass. I don't honestly know what it is but I recycled some from work that had been in acoustic panels so I presume it's 703. My room doesn't have a rear wall like yours .. it's at one end of a rec room so I just had to build 18 panels. I decided to not take them all the way to the floor and the lower part is just painted textured wallpaper .. which eliminates the need to make fancy plug cutouts. The horizontal wood band at the bottom of the panels also ties in with the wood banding on the front of the cabinets at the front to try to tie things together.
Tks again for your inspiration and creativity.
...Ian
ps. this is my first attempt at posting with a picture so I have no idea if this is going to work
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post #952 of 964 Old 02-15-2015, 03:08 PM
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I was planning to use FabricMate tracks, but their price is up 50% over the past few months.

The Menards I go to has 1 1/8" plywood... is using a router to do an angled edge going to be noticeable under the fabric?
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post #953 of 964 Old 02-15-2015, 06:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IanR View Post
GPowers .. I just wanted to thank you for the inspiration to build my own fabric panels that borrow heavily from your design. Last week I finally finished painting and mounting my screen and took some pictures to share. My panels are hybrid MDF and plywood like yours with GOM fabric. However, unlike yours, I chose to separate my panel groupings with fake columns some of which hide the wiring for the side floor mounted surrounds (which you don't actually see in this picture). I pre-cut the wood; then glued and air nailed the frames together in a jig to keep them square but I bevelled the edges using my table saw instead of a router like you. The panel column closest to the front speakers are my first reflection point and are filled with that yellow compressed fibreglass. I don't honestly know what it is but I recycled some from work that had been in acoustic panels so I presume it's 703. My room doesn't have a rear wall like yours .. it's at one end of a rec room so I just had to build 18 panels. I decided to not take them all the way to the floor and the lower part is just painted textured wallpaper .. which eliminates the need to make fancy plug cutouts. The horizontal wood band at the bottom of the panels also ties in with the wood banding on the front of the cabinets at the front to try to tie things together.
Tks again for your inspiration and creativity.
...Ian
ps. this is my first attempt at posting with a picture so I have no idea if this is going to work
Your theater looks great.

I do like the columns that break up the frames. I too started to do the bevel on the table saw BUT at the time I did not have a great table saw. In fact the fabric frame project killed the old table saw.
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post #954 of 964 Old 02-15-2015, 06:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
I was planning to use FabricMate tracks, but their price is up 50% over the past few months.

The Menards I go to has 1 1/8" plywood... is using a router to do an angled edge going to be noticeable under the fabric?
You always have the option of filling and sanding the edge if it is too rough.
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post #955 of 964 Old 02-15-2015, 09:54 PM
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These panels look great!

Which specific GOM fabric type did you use? Did you notice any "sagging" of the fabric between frames after some period of time?
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post #956 of 964 Old 02-15-2015, 10:32 PM
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These panels look great!

Which specific GOM fabric type did you use? Did you notice any "sagging" of the fabric between frames after some period of time?
Tks .. it was GOM FR701 2100 422 Cinnabar. I'm not entirely sure I know what you're asking .. "sagging between frames"? Each frame is separately wrapped and they're just butted together so not sure what you mean. If you mean "sagging across the frame", I'd have to admit that mine don't seem as tightly wrapped and crisp-edged as Greg's but there were warnings in the thread not to stretch the fabric too much as it might create noticable distortions so maybe I didn't stretch it enough. I just used a manual stapler and didn't notice that it wasn't holding. I didn't have enough 703 for all the frames and couldn't find Linacoustic locally so tried using 'slices' of Roxul but didn't like the look. So some of the frames are empty and if you accidentally bump them, they really distort and leave indents but it hasn't been an issue with the 703 ones. I even tried filling one (right side middle panel) with left over chunks of 703 but found that any irregularities 'telegraph' through the material so I'm still on a mission to locate some 703.
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post #957 of 964 Old 02-16-2015, 10:13 AM - Thread Starter
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These panels look great!

Which specific GOM fabric type did you use? Did you notice any "sagging" of the fabric between frames after some period of time?
What GOM fabrics did you use?

Gray on the soffit and columns: Spinel 3582 color 021 Obsidian
Black on the screen wall: Sensa 9218 color 718 Black
Wall frames: Spinel 3582 color 022 Garnet

No sagging after 10 years. If you apply the correct tension you will not get distortion and they will recover after being bumped.

Last edited by GPowers; 02-16-2015 at 10:17 AM.
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post #958 of 964 Old 02-25-2015, 04:03 PM
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What GOM fabrics did you use?

Gray on the soffit and columns: Spinel 3582 color 021 Obsidian
Black on the screen wall: Sensa 9218 color 718 Black
Wall frames: Spinel 3582 color 022 Garnet

No sagging after 10 years. If you apply the correct tension you will not get distortion and they will recover after being bumped.
Thanks, GPowers
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post #959 of 964 Old 02-25-2015, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by IanR View Post
Tks .. it was GOM FR701 2100 422 Cinnabar. I'm not entirely sure I know what you're asking .. "sagging between frames"? Each frame is separately wrapped and they're just butted together so not sure what you mean. If you mean "sagging across the frame", I'd have to admit that mine don't seem as tightly wrapped and crisp-edged as Greg's but there were warnings in the thread not to stretch the fabric too much as it might create noticable distortions so maybe I didn't stretch it enough. I just used a manual stapler and didn't notice that it wasn't holding. I didn't have enough 703 for all the frames and couldn't find Linacoustic locally so tried using 'slices' of Roxul but didn't like the look. So some of the frames are empty and if you accidentally bump them, they really distort and leave indents but it hasn't been an issue with the 703 ones. I even tried filling one (right side middle panel) with left over chunks of 703 but found that any irregularities 'telegraph' through the material so I'm still on a mission to locate some 703.
Yes - I meant sagging across the frame (between the edges in the center). I have noticed on older ones that do not have anything in the center there is a bit of sag. I also fear kids leaning on them, but that's what replacement fabric is for, I guess. =)

Thanks for the response.
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post #960 of 964 Old 02-25-2015, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
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I also fear kids leaning on them, but that's what replacement fabric is for, I guess.
Haha .. actually, the biggest problem I have is adults who are so intrigued by the panels that they go over and want to touch it .. and if it's a panel with nothing in it, they end up making a dent in the fabric. I guess I'm going to have to fill the most accessible ones with 703 once I find some.
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