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post #991 of 1009 Old 06-01-2016, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by cdy2179 View Post
Some of the best HTs on this forum have 1" and 2" Panels and are designed by very knowledgeable guys like Erskine. If you look at the specs for any given material you'll see the absorption coefficients at given frequencies. This proves you are just fine with 2" or 1.5" against a wall. Much lower and you're talking bass trapping (corners and tri-corners). Also the side walls are reflected at angles not straight on so the angle of incident must be accounted for and you'll absorb even lower as the waves travel through more material. I use 1.5" with 2" in the back and with confirmation via REW of rt60s going thicker wasn't needed.

Of course I'd incorporate some combo panels like BAD or TAD or DIY versions at least on the side walls.
Thanks for the info. What are TAD and BAD

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post #992 of 1009 Old 06-01-2016, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by MalevolentHamster View Post
Thanks for the info. What are TAD and BAD
http://www.rpginc.com/product_BAD_Panels.cfm

http://www.kineticsnoise.com/interiors/tad.html

The short and sweet they absorb vocals and below and diffuse above it. This keeps the vocals detailed and accurate and keep the room sounding nice and airy and open. These are the swiss cheese looking panels you see in some of the newer installs. FWIW if you search on google you'll find some DIY versions.
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post #993 of 1009 Old 06-01-2016, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdy2179 View Post
http://www.rpginc.com/product_BAD_Panels.cfm

http://www.kineticsnoise.com/interiors/tad.html

The short and sweet they absorb vocals and below and diffuse above it. This keeps the vocals detailed and accurate and keep the room sounding nice and airy and open. These are the swiss cheese looking panels you see in some of the newer installs. FWIW if you search on google you'll find some DIY versions.
Thanks!
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post #994 of 1009 Old 12-22-2016, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
This thread is in the "Show Me Your...." section, but I don't see many people posting their Fabric Frame theaters here... I figured I would anyway, hope that is okay!

I built fabric fames, and had Fabric movie posters made (DIY Custom-Printed Movie Poster Acoustic Panels - cheap!) for a few of the fabric frames.






The majority of my frames were built using 3/4" Plywood, joined together with Kreg Jig/Pocket Screws, and then I added 3/4" Quarter Round trim to the outside to give it the rounded look.


What seats are these?!


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post #995 of 1009 Old 12-22-2016, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by unckdecamp View Post
What seats are these?!


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They are Palliser LeMans seats. I love the head rest extending up & rotating forward, when I am reclined, I almost always have the head rest rotated forward. They are a little on the firm side, which I don't mind, and no one has complained... but vs sitting in the soft chairs at some of the new movie theaters, they are certainly more firm.
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post #996 of 1009 Old 12-22-2016, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
They are Palliser LeMans seats. I love the head rest extending up & rotating forward, when I am reclined, I almost always have the head rest rotated forward. They are a little on the firm side, which I don't mind, and no one has complained... but vs sitting in the soft chairs at some of the new movie theaters, they are certainly more firm.


Nice, I was actually looking at these myself. Did you go manual or power? I am a fan of firm chairs because there is nothing worse than sinking into a couch and trying to get out!

Anything you'd do different next time or any advice?


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post #997 of 1009 Old 12-23-2016, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by unckdecamp View Post
Nice, I was actually looking at these myself. Did you go manual or power? I am a fan of firm chairs because there is nothing worse than sinking into a couch and trying to get out!

Anything you'd do different next time or any advice?


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I went with the Power version, which have worked perfectly so far... which is about 18 months. Occasionally, one will come unplugged - normally at the little transformer box vs from the outlet, and I'll have to plug it back in, but that is easy.

In terms of anything I would do differently... there is actually an entire 'sticky thread' on that subject in the dedicated Design & construction area that goes through a lot of that.

For me personally, a few things come to mind..
1) Run conduit to the projector, so far not an issue, but my HDMI cables aren't full 4k compliant, so, it could become an issue at some point (hoping my cat6 lines might suffice).

2) my 2nd level riser was too close to my first level riser, so, couldn't fit in my planned step lights

3) my screen ended up a little closer to seats, and I mounted my projector a little forward of where I intended, so, with full zoom, I just barely fill the screen... so, the old adage of measure twice, cut once... but measure twice... install screen & projector location once.

4) I did some work on bringing fresh air in and exhausting air out of the room for air exchanges, although this thought is virtual blasphemy, I don't think I would bother with that effort again. Based on my viewing habits, if I am in the room with just me and my immediate family, the air flow never is an issue... and if I have 14+ people in the room, normally my back door is open to allow people free flow in and out, so, then there is natural air circulation.

5) I would skip the 'screen lights', right in front of my screen...
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post #998 of 1009 Old 12-23-2016, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
In terms of anything I would do differently... there is actually an entire 'sticky thread' on that subject in the dedicated Design & construction area that goes through a lot of that.
Yeah, I frequent it often! I was talking more specifically about your seats!

Also, do you follow all the guidelines about distance and cable bundling for the power brick outlined below?

https://www.palliser.com/instruction...on_YC059_3.pdf


P.S. Sorry to hijack fabric frames thread. What is the proper way to have this discussion? I am not trying to make people mad at me.


Thanks all!
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post #999 of 1009 Old 12-24-2016, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unckdecamp View Post
Yeah, I frequent it often! I was talking more specifically about your seats!

Also, do you follow all the guidelines about distance and cable bundling for the power brick outlined below?

https://www.palliser.com/instruction...on_YC059_3.pdf


P.S. Sorry to hijack fabric frames thread. What is the proper way to have this discussion? I am not trying to make people mad at me.


Thanks all!
Best way is to take the discussion to PM.

For Sale JVC DLA-X750R/RS500 Projector includes two lamps

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/252-fr...l#post54970964
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post #1000 of 1009 Old 01-02-2017, 02:55 PM - Thread Starter
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I am looking at redoing the lighting and lighting control in the theater.

Current lighting control is a PCS SceneMaster with 4 channels. I have a wall switch that turns on the lights when entering the theater and a X10 RF remote to control the lights during the movie. This has worked great for years. But I would like to add more lighting to the room and need a way to control it. Since the current is X10 it is OLD technology and not readily available.


I am planning on using DMX to control all the lighting in the theater. I'am looking at the following:

Stick CU4 wall mounted DMX controler
LED Strip lighting in the sofit and around the screen
Chauvet SlimBerm Quad IRC for up/down lighting the screen
Chuavet DMX4 To control some of the existing lights

The wall mounted Stick CU4 can be used to control the lights when entering the theater. To keep thing simple, for everyone, I will add a decora wall switch with momentary contacts to trigger the dry contacts on the Stick CU4 for scene activation. I will also be ables to control scenes from the iPad. The iPad is also used to control the A/V system and the HVAC, so everything is controllable from the iPad.

I have done several searches trying to find other owners that have used DMX to control their theater lighting. I found a few but most have used Lutron DMX controls for some LED lighting strips but not the whole theater. So I was just looking for more input before buying all this. I have bought some items for testing but have not converted to DMX yet.
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post #1001 of 1009 Old 03-07-2017, 09:45 AM
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Ahoy fabric frame builders!

I'm building some frames, including one that goes over the projector port. See photo.

Any advice on how to wrap the fabric (FR701) around the inside hole of the PJ port?

I could frame it with some molding. Prefer not to do that.

Polyester doesn't stretch much. Thought of applying some heat... haven't tried it yet though.

Sent a message to customer.care@guilfordofmain.com asking for advice. No response yet.

Searched around this thread and the avsform in general. Didn't find anything.... might still be there though. Please forward any useful links.

-llj
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post #1002 of 1009 Old 03-07-2017, 09:49 AM
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Can you remove the black trim piece, then get the fabric into the hole and secured (stapled?), then reattach the trim?

That might be the tidiest way as I've found it's tricky to get a good finish when trying to get fabric into a hole (either square or round)

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post #1003 of 1009 Old 03-07-2017, 10:29 AM
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The "black trim piece" is part of the structural frame, not trim.

Creating some sort of trim piece is always an option, but I'm trying to avoid that.

I was hoping someone had a trick for smoothly covering these inside holes.

-llj

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post #1004 of 1009 Old 03-07-2017, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llj View Post
Ahoy fabric frame builders!

I'm building some frames, including one that goes over the projector port. See photo.

Any advice on how to wrap the fabric (FR701) around the inside hole of the PJ port?

I could frame it with some molding. Prefer not to do that.

Polyester doesn't stretch much. Thought of applying some heat... haven't tried it yet though.

Sent a message to customer.care@guilfordofmain.com asking for advice. No response yet.

Searched around this thread and the avsform in general. Didn't find anything.... might still be there though. Please forward any useful links.

-llj
With some careful cutting you should be able to upholster that opening. It looks fairly large, so you will have lots of room to work.
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post #1005 of 1009 Old 03-07-2017, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llj View Post
The "black trim piece" is part of the structural frame, not trim.

Creating some sort of trim piece is always an option, but I'm trying to avoid that.

I was hoping someone had a trick for smoothly covering these inside holes.

-llj
Oh OK. I saw the screws and thought you could remove and reattach it easily, that was all.

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Originally Posted by elmalloc
Who says Cameron is "right" and why do we care about him so much - lol!

I trust Gary Lightfoot more than James Cameron.
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post #1006 of 1009 Old 05-03-2017, 05:21 PM - Thread Starter
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I have finished upgrading my movie poster frame. It was the game box version documented by #chinadog several years ago. I added and additional frame around the original frame. Then added lights all around the frame. To add more fun the LED are NeoPixels controlled by an Arduino.





Full post is here:

Movie poster marquee
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post #1007 of 1009 Old 05-03-2017, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by GPowers View Post
I have finished upgrading my movie poster frame. It was the game box version documented by #chinadog several years ago. I added and additional frame around the original frame. Then added lights all around the frame. To add more fun the LED are NeoPixels controlled by an Arduino.

Nice Job-->
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post #1008 of 1009 Old 05-04-2017, 07:16 AM
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@GPowers

Greg,

Tell me more about the lights around the frame. Are they LED string lights? Do they chase? I'm going to build out a marquee next and I wanted that incorporate that traditional light look to some extend. Can you point me to where you got them. I'm also going to include some LED "Neon" to give it some color.

Bud
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post #1009 of 1009 Old 05-04-2017, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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@GPowers

Greg,

Tell me more about the lights around the frame. Are they LED string lights? Do they chase? I'm going to build out a marquee next and I wanted that incorporate that traditional light look to some extend. Can you point me to where you got them. I'm also going to include some LED "Neon" to give it some color.

Bud
Bud, over on the Movie poster marquee thread, post 7 has a YouTube video of some of the possiable light animation effect you can create. If you know C++ and/or can copy and paste code you can create just about any lighting effect you want in any color you want. Plus the parts are very inexpensive on Ebay. It just takes some patients as shipping times are long, 10 to 20 days for some parts. If you're in a hurry, most of the parts are available on amazon but can cost 2 to 10 times as much as on ebay.

I like your new theater, you are really plus-ing it.

Last edited by GPowers; 10-14-2017 at 03:20 PM.
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