The Chiu Theater (professional construction) done in 60 days - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 97 Old 04-20-2005, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Hello,

I just wanted to share with you my photos for the construction of my home theater.

The home theater will be built by professionals. The builder is Houston Structural, one of the most highly regarded builders in the US, located in Houston, TX. They are the winner of numerous awards, including Chrysalis Award "2004 State Remodeler of the Year", Texas Association of Builders "Best Addition - $50K - $100K" Remodeling Award, etc.

I don't work for them, so it is my unbiased opinion that I highly recommend them for all my friends and acquaintances in Houston.

On with the show.

The first picture is my floorplan. What you see here in a second floor room with no windows. Originally, it was 2 bedrooms (top and bottom) with a wall separating them (this "wall" would run left to right in the floorplan), with windows on the left wall. When I had the home built, I asked the builder to delete the wall and remove the windows. This was a David Weekley home which is tract-home builder.

This turned out to be a bad idea but I will elaborate more in the next message.

The room is on the second floor.
It is 23' x 18' x 8'.
There is a door on the top wall, which doesn't really go anywhere. It merely provides access to 2 water heaters.

You also see a long closet which I will use to house my equipment. Due to my need to isolate my theater in a practical way, I chose not to do an inwall rack which is very beautiful but provides more challenges in soundproofing.

The door in the bottom wall out of the closet goes to additional storage.
LL
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post #2 of 97 Old 04-20-2005, 08:35 AM - Thread Starter
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I wanted to post this in a separate message so those people not interested can just skip this post. This post is about why asking a tract home builder to delete a wall was a bad idea.

Some walls are structural and some are not. In this case, the wall that I deleted was sort of load-bearing in that it held up the roof.

oops.

When Houston Structural (HS) came in, after the drywall was removed, they noted a big deflection in the beam that ran top and bottom that supported the roof. The deflection was over 1" in the middle of the span.

This was not hard to fix, but if I didn't build the theater, tearing down drywall for the ceiling, that could have cause me a nightmare down the line.

Anyway, HS saw a lot of space above the room so they recommended raising the ceiling to 10' which was excellent! Since we did this, we also use the opportunity to redesign the bracing for the roof, using special parallam beams in the construction.

Definitely not a do-it-yourself job. This required load calculations by a structural engineer, temporary bracing be set up, approvals/permits, etc.
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post #3 of 97 Old 04-20-2005, 08:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is a photo. If we orient using the floorplan, the photo would be looking left. The riser goes here.
Therefore, the door to access the water heaters will be relocated.
The photo is named Front Wall because originally, the screen was going here, but the final design has this switched 180 degrees.
LL
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post #4 of 97 Old 04-20-2005, 08:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Another photo, now looking at the right wall in the floorplan. Here you see the entry door. This door will also be relocated, in order to accomodate the stage/proscenium.
LL
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post #5 of 97 Old 04-22-2005, 09:12 AM - Thread Starter
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2 days later, the carpet, pad, moldings, and drywall have been removed.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/lawren..._tx3/my_photos

I noticed that the text got shrunk by Yahoo and is hard to read. They say.

Photo #1. "These ceiling joists will be demo'd to raise the ceiling from 8' to 10'" and "RISER goes here."

Photo #2. " This door will be relocated to accomodate a riser."

Photo #4. "This beam has a 1" deflection and will be reenforced." and '120" wide 2.35:1 screen goes here' and "STAGE goes here."

Photo #5. "this door will be moved to accomodate stage." and "Closet will be holding theater equipment."
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post #6 of 97 Old 04-22-2005, 09:45 AM
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keep it coming... more... more...


^_^
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post #7 of 97 Old 04-29-2005, 07:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Week 1 is over.

Here is what we accomplished this week.
- Framing is done. Ceiling has been raised from 8' to 10'. Doorways are moved to accomodate riser and stage.
- Another layer of 3/4" tongue-and-groove plywood installed with Green Glue. The floor is now 1.5" thick.
- Blocking installed for double drywall and projector. See pictures.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/lawren..._tx3/my_photos
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post #8 of 97 Old 05-01-2005, 07:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Can someone tell me how to get rid of the circle fuzz that shows up in my digital pictures of my room? Please see attached picture.

I take multiple pictures of my room and the circles are always in different places and different sizes.
LL
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post #9 of 97 Old 05-01-2005, 07:50 AM
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Those are angry spirits. Their energy force is only visible with digital cameras. Don't worry, they'll go away as soon as they find an acceptable living host. :)

Great job - whatever the cost of jacking up the ceiling was well worth it. Keep the photos coming!
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post #10 of 97 Old 05-01-2005, 08:41 AM
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Larry,
Looks cool ,keep em coming.Those spots are dust either on or right in front of your camera.

Art
LL

My HT


iRule rules my theater
 

"If she's amazing she won't be easy,if she's easy she won't be amazing"

 

Bob Marley

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post #11 of 97 Old 05-01-2005, 09:08 AM
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The spots are much less noticable when you've got a couple of G90's to focus on. :)
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post #12 of 97 Old 05-02-2005, 06:26 AM
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Is the flooring screwed down or does it float?

Looking good. the ceiling is going to be awesome. Keep the pics coming.

Steve
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post #13 of 97 Old 05-02-2005, 07:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Floor is screwed down 8" on-center. That's close to 1,000 screws. The builder used a tool where screws are fed using a strip...makes the job a lot easier!

Floor is tight as a drum. Absolutely no squeaks!
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post #14 of 97 Old 05-04-2005, 02:12 AM
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looks awesome, is the floor quiet enough?

Understanding sound isolation
That link may be helpful
Brian
Posted content copyright 2004-2008 Green Glue Company, LLC
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post #15 of 97 Old 05-04-2005, 05:45 AM
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Lawrence,

I'm guessing you have figured this out by now, but the spots in your pictures are actually dust particles floating close to your camera when the flash goes off. Thus the reason they always appear in different places is that they float.

Usually the only way to get rid of them is to have a detached flash, not take your pictures with a flash, or have a clean-air environment. Usually, none of these are options in a building environment (unless you have floodlights present), so you end up with a couple dots and be thankful the angry spirits have not decided to take up residence ;)
-cuff
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post #16 of 97 Old 05-06-2005, 06:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Week 2 is over.

This week, we accomplished the following:
- Electrical wiring for the theater
- HVAC
- Install new interior solid-core door.

Please see the photos. More information about each of these tasks will be posted below.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/lawren..._tx3/my_photos
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post #17 of 97 Old 05-06-2005, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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About Electrical wiring ...

5 dedicated 20A circuits were pulled from the subpanel downstairs in the garage.

- 4 circuits are for the equipment room.
- Of these 4 circuits, 2 are protected by ZeroSurge panel surge protectors and power-conditioned by Equi=Tech isolation transformers. Each circuit go from subpanel to a switch to surge protector to isolation transformer to outlet.
- Of the 2 protected circuits, one of them also feeds the projector location.

The 5th circuit is for everything else such as lighting, convenience outlets, etc.

In addition to this, the room originally had two 15A circuits. We are not using these at this time, but they are there in case we need it. We have easy access to them because this is a 2nd floor room and we have attic access above.

About lighting...

Using Grafik-Eye (6 zones) and a Spacer System dimmer (1 zone) for 7 zones. The 7 zones are:

1. 2 sconces on back wall
2. 3 angled can lights on back. The trim can tilt 30 degrees so the light will actually be aiming right on the second row of seating.
3. 3 sconces on left wall and 2 sconces on right wall (left and right orientation is when you are facing the screen)
4. 6 can lights on flat part of ceiling
5. 2 can lights on stage (some blocking still needed here as you can see)
6. Ceiling tray light (not installed yet)
7. 2 step lights on riser (on Spacer)

Using Grafik-Eye 2 box wiring method. The wiring junction box is located in a totally separate room away from HT and closet...in the attic storage area. there is a picture for this.

You will see that I do not have any electrical boxes. For soundproofing purposes, we are just going to use blocking and stub the wire out. After drywall, we will use either outlets in columns and surface mounted boxes (where there are no columns such as ceiling and behind screen wall).

About HVAC

6 supplies and 2 returns. All on oversized ducts. All I did was tell the HVAC guy how many BTU's of cooling I need (9,000), and I told him to keep the flow velocity low at or below 250 CFM per register and he did the calculation regarding how many supplies/returns, and duct sizes.

HT will be on separate zone. The house already has 2 air conditioners/furnaces, one for downstairs, and one for upstairs. The upstairs one is getting zoned in this case. If necessary, the HT can execute a take-down and take over all cooling/heating, thus taking an entire air conditioner's capacity if necessary.

Lastly, an interior solid core door was installed. There's a photo for this too.
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post #18 of 97 Old 05-13-2005, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Week 3 is over.

This week, we accomplished the following:

- Insulate all the walls with BondedLogic UltraTouch cotton acoustical batts. They outperform fiberglass and were recommended by the builder. R13 in walls, R19 in ceilings. Later on, the builder will blow in fiberglass fluffy insulation to bring the ceiling up to R30 which is required by code in Houston. From the pictures, you can see the ceilings are not done yet.

- Installed 2" conduit in walls to reach all speaker locations + projector.
The pictures show 4 conduits. But there are more which are not visible in the pictures. There are actually 5 total. All conduits will be hidden behind columns later.
1. Conduit #1 for left rear speaker. (left orientation when you are looking at screen)
2. Conduit #2 for right rear speaker.
3. Conduit #3 for left side speaker. (not visible in pictures. This one is accessed by going in the water heaters access area)
4. Conduit #4 behind screen wall.
5. Conduit #5 next to projector location, close to conduit #2. I could also use conduit #2 but was worried about size of DVI connector and sharing low-voltage with speaker wires which gets a lot more electrical current.

We don't have a conduit for the right side speaker because if you recall from the framing pictures, that wall is adjacent to equipment room.

- Applied Integrity Gaskets green strips from Shadwell to all the studs. I learned about these in the forums. We used close to 2000 feet. The cost is not bad. Spent less than $300 for both materials and labor. I would not recommend buying the rolling applicator though. It was easier to apply by hand!

- Ran a 6 gauge ground wire to the house ground. This will give us an dedicated isolated ground for the equipment room outlets. There is a picture for this.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/lawren...bum?.dir=/7afe
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post #19 of 97 Old 05-13-2005, 01:48 PM
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It's looking great!
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post #20 of 97 Old 05-20-2005, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Week 4 is over.

This week we accomplished the following:

- Hung first layer of drywall. Drywall is 5/8" Type-X.

There were 3 drywall contractors. They only hang drywall and they do it almost every day so they worked fast. One person on stilts call out measurements, another person cuts drywall and brings it over. The person on stilts then screws a couple of screws to the drywall, just enough to hold it there. Finally, the third guy screws in many screws and cuts the holes for the recessed lighting, HVAC, etc. Watching them work is pretty cool, like a synchronized assembly line. Pretty strong too, didn't need a ceiling lift or anything, and they carried the 4' x 8' boards by hand up a flight of stairs without any problems. No nails were used, only drywall screws.

It is messy work and I'm glad that I could just sit back and watch. You might noticed that the room looks pretty clean. The good thing about hiring a good builder is that they clean up after each day and they even bring an outdoor porta-potty for their crew.

4 weeks over and it's 50% done!

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/lawren...bum?.dir=/f6c1
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post #21 of 97 Old 05-20-2005, 06:26 AM - Thread Starter
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I must say that I love the 10 foot ceiling. It's strange, at first, the room felt smaller on the sides. I guess it's a perception thing. When the ceiling is lower, the horizontal dimensions look larger because it's partly relative to the ceiling. When the ceiling is raised, the x-y dimensions "feel" smaller. But don't let that dissuade you, a 10-ft ceiling is pretty awesome.
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post #22 of 97 Old 05-20-2005, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lawrence_Chiu

It is messy work and I'm glad that I could just sit back and watch. You might noticed that the room looks pretty clean. The good thing about hiring a good builder is that they clean up after each day and they even bring an outdoor porta-potty for their crew.
If you think that is messy wait until they start mudding and sanding. ;)
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post #23 of 97 Old 05-20-2005, 06:56 AM
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Looks great. Liked the ceiling.
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post #24 of 97 Old 05-21-2005, 08:50 AM
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Nothing specific, just thanks for a marvelous record of your construction!

Andre
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post #25 of 97 Old 05-21-2005, 04:29 PM
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Lawrence_Chiu, did you use RSIC-1 on the walls or did you use green glue
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post #26 of 97 Old 05-21-2005, 05:35 PM
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Lawrence:

I'm sure that construction has moved beyond this point so please disregard my post.

One of the critical factors in room design for audio is the ratio of length, width, and height. There are three "golden" ratios according to some cat named Seppmeyer which give the smoothest bass response. His third ratios are most practical for a home theater, and it recommends that the width be 1.6 times the room height, and the length be 2.3 times the room height. Given a ceiling height of 10 feet, if the width of your room were reduced to 16 feet, it would be perfect.

My impression is that it is very difficult to overcome bass boominess that is due to room dimensions, at certain locations within the theater, due to standing waves in the lower frequencies. Bass traps are supposed to help but I wonder how effective they are in smoothing out the response. I suspect your theater dimensions will work out to be pretty good in this respect, but there's always a little bit of luck involved.
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post #27 of 97 Old 05-21-2005, 07:38 PM - Thread Starter
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To taker: Just Green Glue between 5/8" Type-X drywall and 1/2" Type-X drywall. I also used Integrity Gasket tape on the studs.

To cwilson: Thanks for the advice. My room is sort of complicated though in that it does not look like a rectangular box. From what I read, rooms that are not strictly rectangular do not behave exactly as described by acoustic theory.

The ceiling is angled on the sides 45 degrees and the edges are 8 feet high. Also the stage/proscenium area is 8 foot high because of the previously mentioned roof support beam.

Lastly, I think going 16 feet wide would be tough for me because of my Berkline 090 chairs. These chairs are quite wide and I needed every inch of the 18 feet width to fit 5 in the second row. The first row has 4 since I need room on the sides for passing through.

Thanks for all the comments!
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post #28 of 97 Old 05-27-2005, 08:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Week 5 is over.

This week, we accomplished the following:

- taped and mudded the first layer of drywall. This was done by a different crew than the people who hung it. Like the people who hung it, this crew specialized in taping and mudding, and that's is pretty much all they do day-after-day.

- Hung second layer of drywall. Drywall is 1/2" Type-X. This comes in a 4' x 10' board, whereas the 5/8" came in standard 4' x 8' board. Hung by the original crew that hung the first layer. As mentioned previously, the second layer is glued to the first layer with Green Glue. Green Glue is applied at 100% coverage using the manufacturer-supplied trowel.

- Both first layer and second layer are installed horizontally. Seams are staggered like this (from top to bottom).
First layer, 4' x 8' board, then 4' x 8' board.
Second layer, 2' x 10' board, then 4' x 10' board, then 2' x 10' board.

- taped, mudded, and sanded the second layer of drywall. by the original crew that taped/mudded the first layer.

In the equipment closet, we accomplished the following:

- Hung, taped, mudded, and sanded drywall. The equipment closet only gets a single layer of 1/2" drywall non-type-x. the basic stuff used in standard construction.

- You might notice that the ceiling picture shows that 2 of the can lights are not cut out. This will be fixed next week by the builder and yes, it was an "oops".

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/lawren...bum?.dir=/b251
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post #29 of 97 Old 05-27-2005, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
From what I read, rooms that are not strictly rectangular do not behave exactly as described by acoustic theory
All rooms behave as described by acoustic principles. As the shapes depart from rectangular, the math becomes increasingly complex.

Dennis Erskine CFI, CFII, MEI
Architectural Acoustics
Subject Matter Expert
Certified Home Theater Designer
CEDIA Board of Directors
www.erskine-group.com
www.CinemaForte.net
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post #30 of 97 Old 05-27-2005, 08:51 PM
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Lawrence,

When you hired your drywall crews, did you look for people who had experience with all the special techniques like the GreenGlue, staggered seams, caulking the gaps, double layer, etc ? Or did you have to show them what you wanted done?

Did you use the clips on the ceiling? Seems pretty simple to explain the other stuff, but the clips might require some practice.

Thanks.
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