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Old 07-31-2005, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Yesterday I ran the wiring for my step lights for the riser and carried down all the remaining drywall. Today I started drywalling the HT room. Here's as far as we got (my Dad was here a couple of hours). I have about 8 pieces of drywall left, so looks like I'll be ordering another 30 panels to finish up the ceilings and finish off the HT room and concession area.

A little worn out today, but managed some pictures after a hot shower.

Back wall:


Side wall:


Front wall:


Outside theater room:



Bud
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Old 07-31-2005, 07:37 PM
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Awesome... maybe I missed it, but what are you planning on doing with the windows? Also, where will the rope lighting go in the cove ceiling? It seems that the angled plywood ends right where the studs are above it (maybe there's an inch or so of space there? ...I'm referencing a pic on the first page of this thread)

I like a lot of the ideas you're using, and will probably plagiarize some of them (ie bookmark this thread)...
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Old 07-31-2005, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Tim,

Thanks, its coming along...

I'm planning on drywalling over the windows. Thats the plan at least for now. I'll Cut a piece of drywall for the window and paint it black. Attach the drywall piece to a piece of 2x4 sideways (gives me the right depth) and attach the 2x4 to the framing in the window with the black side of the drywall out. That'll cover it, then I drywall over the whole thing.

The rope light will go in the back in the farthest part of the cove. Because of the height of the cove and the depth of the cove, it won't be seen. There is just enough room (1/2 inch height) at the top of the cover where the drywall or 1/2 plywood (see comment below) will cover it and meet the from of the cove. The bottom of the cove is 1 & 1/2 inches, just enough room for one layer of drywall and 1 inch thick linacoustic. I'll also drywall the from of the cover (angled part). The whole thing will be coverer with GOM. I'm thinking 1/2 ply to have a surface to staple the GOM to on top of the cove. I'll try and draw up a picture with the actual layout and dimensions.

Bud
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Old 08-01-2005, 12:28 AM
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Interesting (on both accounts)... Are you going to GOM the walls? If so, have you considered a separate removable insert for covering the windows, and covering over it with GOM? Then if you (or future owners) ever want the windows back, you/they only need to remove the GOM and pull out the inserts... Just a thought.

The rope lights and cove are difficult to picture... I suppose that's why a picture is worth a thousand words... I'll just wait patiently for that stage of the project to be more clear.
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Old 08-01-2005, 04:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes to GOM and yes to the insert (or plug as I like to call it). I was just discussing that with my Dad yesterday. One reason that wall isn't done yet. The windows are pretty large (I don't have measurements off the top of my head), but probably doable with some sort covering. I was thinking of using rigid foam board with some support in the middle and a foam around the perimeter that has some flex to it to hold it in place. I can cover the whole thing with GOM.

Maybe I'll draw something up today on that subject as well.

Bud
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Old 08-01-2005, 07:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are two MS Paint drawings I did this AM. This will give you a better idea of what I'm doing with the cove trey and rope lights.

The first drawing is a little chaotic, but hopefully its legible enough to get the point across. Basically, I extended my soffit with some framing and capped it off with a piece of 3/4 inch plywood (6.5 inches wide). Since I plan on using GOM on the walls and under the soffit, I'll drywall over the plywood, that'll give me a nice surface to pull the GOM over without worrying about snagging it on the rough plywood surface.

I'll leave 1.5 inches underneath for drywall and linacoustic and that will make it even with the bottom of the plywood for a level surface. Also, I left 1/2 inch above the soffit for plywood (or 1/2 furring strips) and drywall. The reason for ply on the top is just an area to staple the GOM to. You could use plywood all the way across the top of the soffit, but drywall is easier to work with.

The rope light will sit up against the back of the soffit. because of the width of the top of the cove and the height of the ceiling, (bottom of soffit is eight feet), the rope light won't be seen. I'll verify this as I get closer. Worst case is I could add a trim piece around the top of the soffit towards the back to make a tray to put the rope light in.




Bud
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Old 08-01-2005, 02:18 PM
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Dang brotha... you are cooking on this project. Look at you go. you know, if you finish before me, I am never talking to you again, Bud! Hahaha! I'll be interested to hear your experience with sanding the drywall mud. What a mess. You drawings look very cool. Can't wait to see that lighting in place.

What's the distance from the rope lighting to the edge of the soffit? Do you think it will be very evident from that distance? It seems kind of far if the scale is correct. I thought people put rope lighting close to a visible vertical section of the wall whereas yours will be inset quite a bit. It will likely produce a soft glow.

Did you post images of your GOM? Maybe I need to look back some. I don't remember it.

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Old 08-01-2005, 02:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Reaper,

Yeah, its coming along, nicely, but it'll slow up again I'm sure when it comes to spending the cash for the equipment. Decisions, decisions. I miss Visio, but Paint does the job in a pinch.

I'm going to price out the mud. I've done it and I probably will do it, but going to get some quotes. I don't mind the mud,. its the dust. I've managed to keep the butt joints to a minimum and plan on crown everywhere, so we'll see how much the mud will cost me. If they don't have the dustless sanders, I'll probably do it myself and rent one. I already have stilts from the last basement drywall job and that'll help big time.

I have not posted pictures of GOM. Still working on my color scheme. I just ordered some samples from Guilford, so waiting on those.

The drawing is not to scale. I think it'll work our fine though based on the testing I've done. If you look at the pictures I've posted of the soffit with the lights on you can see only one small section and thats because I just laid it up there. It still has the "bends" from the roll (bought 150 feet) and is not pushed back in the corner really. Also, that picture was taken from eye level (obviously) and I'm 6'4", so there are not many people that will see it any higher! I also used the frosted white light versus the clear to give it a softer look.

Congrats on your completion. Looks great.

Bud
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Old 08-01-2005, 03:08 PM
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Well, it's not complete yet... but construction is. Just need some carpet and finishing touches here and there. Then I hang the screen and posters and toss the chairs in. Thanks for the congrats though. The pictures to be posted over the next 2 weeks or so should be fun.

I found your images of the soffit trial. Looks awesome! Sorry I missed those before.

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Old 08-01-2005, 05:32 PM
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Bud
Thanks for the info. and good luck on your HT. I'll probably be back when I get started on my HT. Great thread and informative.
Frank

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Old 08-02-2005, 11:26 PM
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It's looking really good Bud!!

~Josh

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Old 08-03-2005, 09:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Josh, thanks.

I think I'll run to Home Depot and order more drywall tomorrow or Friday. I also need to fix my 24 VAC transformer on my furnance and wire my IR stuff still. Next week I plan on take a few days off, that'll give me some piece and quiet to work downstairs. I should have finished the ceilings (at least in the bar and gameroom) by then. Hoping to do the ceilings with the 6 sheets I have left in the concession area.

Still need to get some quotes on mud. I may be breaking out the stilts (to mud the ceilings) before the end of the month! Stay tuned.

Bud

(damn, this was my 500th post already)
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:53 PM
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And this was my 100th!! What type of insulation are you using Bud?

~Josh

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Old 08-04-2005, 05:07 AM - Thread Starter
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I used Owens Corning R19 in the ceiling and also the walls that share the gameroom since it was 2x6 construction. I'm only doing one layer of 1/2 drywall, but plan on caulking the outlets and seams. I'll use linacoustic/batting and GOM to cover. I'm not too concerned about sound leakage, considering the HT room is below my home office in the basement.

Bud
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Old 08-04-2005, 11:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Just returned from "Big Orange", 30 sheets of drywall arriving tomorrow. That should pretty much cover everything I need to do, any extra (doubt it) I'll hang in my workshop.

Bud
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Old 08-04-2005, 12:20 PM
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Have you been using those drywall carriers for hauling that stuff to the basement? They work pretty slick, and are pretty cheap too.
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Old 08-04-2005, 12:28 PM
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Hey Bud,

How much are they getting you for on each of those deliveries? I'm thinking it was $55-$60 at my local HD the last time I asked.

-Steve
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Old 08-04-2005, 12:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Steve,

Call me lazy. Thats about right. I don't have the receipt in front of me. I could have loaded it in the suburban (made maybe two trips), but I'm going to have to carry it down to the basement anyway, so I figured I'd save my back and knees (especially my knees), some.

Tim,

Yes, those puppies are WONDERFUL. Best 6 bucks I've ever spent.

Bud

EDIT: Steve, checked the receipt. 59.00. So if you average it out over thirty sheets, it cost me an extra 2.00 per sheet for a total $9.53 per sheet. Original price was 7.53 per sheet. The stuff has gone up like 2.50 a sheet in the last 6 months.
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Old 08-04-2005, 12:44 PM
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WOW! Everything is looking fantabulous Bud!! I got one of those dustless sanders when I did my theater (picked it up from Lowes). It's a little on the tough side (the shop vac has so much power it wants to suck the sander to the wall making it hard to swipe back and forth) but the dust was minimal, only a little at the bottom of walls. I sanded the whole basement and 'MaximAvwife' said she didn't notice any drywall dust coming into the house.

Keep the pics coming! It's like reliving the contruction process all over again!

Sean
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Old 08-04-2005, 02:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Maxim,

Thanks! I bought one of those things from HD last time I finished the basement. I found it tough to use for the reason you mentioned, it wants to stick to the wall. Maybe I was doing it wrong. I think the last time I try to make everything perfect and sanded between coats and that generated a lot of extra dust. I'm hoping to get away with sanding the final coat and maybe renting a drywall sander from a local rental store. Need to start looking around.

Bud
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Old 08-04-2005, 03:23 PM
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As MaximAvs is in charge of the dusting chores (and he does look so very cute...I mean masculine...with a feather duster in hand) you can believe it when he says the dust was minimal with the dustless sander.

Kath
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Old 08-04-2005, 03:32 PM
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OMG!!! She found me!!

Sean
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Old 08-04-2005, 03:35 PM
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Classic... I guess there's no more talk of WAF around here...
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Old 08-04-2005, 03:39 PM
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Like you are so hard to find dear...you are either in the HT, the Boom Boom Room or here.

Kath
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Old 08-04-2005, 03:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Reaper,

You now need to create a new intro slide for the Maxims... Welcome to the Boom Boom Theater!

Bud
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Old 08-04-2005, 04:02 PM
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FYI: WAF is very high in regards to what MaximAvs has done w/ the HT and the Lounge. No complaints from this wife.

Kath
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Old 08-04-2005, 04:10 PM
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I don't know if you knew, but at HD you can get clear channel for the rope light to snap into to keep it nice and straight in the soffet. It has double sided tape to attach it, or you can screw it down. Works pretty slick! You can find it back in the lighting area by the rope light.

-Sean

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Old 08-04-2005, 04:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Sean,

Will take a gander. With the roll I bought, came some clips. I wasn't sure if I was going to use them or not, that sounds like a good alternative though once I get that cove completed. Thanks for the tip!

Bud
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Old 08-05-2005, 02:01 AM
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Bud,

DO NOT USE THE CLIPS.

I did a project 2 years ago using the clips that came with some rope light and within about 1.5 years the clips had nearly all broken. I think like 16 out of 18 had broken... in a location with no physical contact, and only about 15 hours a week usage of the lights.

1 year ago I did a project with the channel and it is still holding as tight as it did the first day and these lights have been on almost 24/7 and the location is exposed to physical contact by people.

Lucky for me the clips that I need to replace are on the underside of a desk and not in a little alcove 8 feet of the ground. It would also be a pain to fasten all those little clips to the soffit, lots of little screws or nails. The channel also holds the ropelight straight as an arrow, which I know isn't as important because it is well hidden in your soffit but I'm sure it still matters to you a little. I would want my hidden rope light to be as straight as possible. It's kind of like not wanting our PQ to have any flaws, even the ones that nobody NORMAL would notice. The channel is very affordable and definately worth it.

Keep up the good work, the place is looking great.

Later,
Brian

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Old 08-05-2005, 05:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Brian,

I was trying to figure out how to get the "bends" out of the light. I thought that with enough usage over time, it might have straightened out some. I'd like it as straight as possible, since with any slight bends it'll have some impact on where it will project light from the trey. Between yours and Maxim's comments, I'm definately going to use the track now. Thanks for the info!

Bud
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