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post #1501 of 4397 Old 04-18-2006, 07:35 AM
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Take a slightly larger drill bit than the area you are repairing. Drill it out slightly and then fill it with the appropriate material.

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post #1502 of 4397 Old 04-18-2006, 08:13 AM - Thread Starter
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I don't think that'll work. A picture is worth a thousand words... It seems everywhere I rubbed the woodfill, ended up not taking the stain, although the actual spot where the nail is was taken.


Bud
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post #1503 of 4397 Old 04-18-2006, 08:19 AM
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Ya, the picture helped. I was thinking it was only the small hole that you filled that didnt match. Looks like you going to have to sand out a larger area and re-try it.

A finish nailer and the appropriate nails would have helped a lot also. You probably wouldnt have even noticed them.

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post #1504 of 4397 Old 04-18-2006, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, I used both finish nails and brads... what you see is not a nail, its the filled in nail hole. It did take the stain. I use a few brads when the jamb is first installed to plumb everything, then I drill and use 8 penny finish nails through the shims to secure the jamb permanently.

Bud
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post #1505 of 4397 Old 04-18-2006, 08:59 AM - Thread Starter
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I was just playing with my Ryobi detail sander on a scrap piece of wood, looks like it I sand id good, it'll work. I think I'll sand the whole jamb an restain it. The other jambs I'll just sand the filler down really well before attempting to stain.

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post #1506 of 4397 Old 04-18-2006, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Well, I used both finish nails and brads... what you see is not a nail, its the filled in nail hole. Bud

Wow, im getting old. That looks just like a huge nail head. Sorry Bud. I should know that you are on top of all this and use the correct tools. Especially since I read your thread daily.

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post #1507 of 4397 Old 04-18-2006, 01:08 PM
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Did you use the wood conditioner after filling?
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post #1508 of 4397 Old 04-18-2006, 04:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, prestained after filling in the holes. It was the plastic wood, that was probably my first mistake. They make different colors as well, I went with a large can and it was natural. Didn't seem to matter, since it was stainable. They said to stain the wood first, then use the filler, but it was already hung, since it was a jamb. I ended up using my Ryobi detail sander and just sanded it and restained it. It's much better, although as usual, you're your own worst critic. At least its not obvious. Will post a second picture tomorrow.

Bud
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post #1509 of 4397 Old 04-18-2006, 07:55 PM
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Hey Bud, I have tried the sawdust/glue trick many times and the success factor really depends on the wood that you are working with. I have found that Wunderfil is a great product that works on almost all stain/paint grade wood. You can get it from Rockler. Hopefully yours turns out for you, as you say you are your own worst critic. I however, say you are doing a great job as it is looking fantastic

Drew

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post #1510 of 4397 Old 04-18-2006, 08:26 PM
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Don't worry about it Bud.... no one else but you will ever notice it, see it, think about it, or remember it!
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post #1511 of 4397 Old 04-19-2006, 06:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r00ster View Post

Hey Bud, I have tried the sawdust/glue trick many times and the success factor really depends on the wood that you are working with. I have found that Wunderfil is a great product that works on almost all stain/paint grade wood. You can get it from Rockler. Hopefully yours turns out for you, as you say you are your own worst critic. I however, say you are doing a great job as it is looking fantastic

Drew

Noted. Thanks!

Bud
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post #1512 of 4397 Old 04-19-2006, 01:57 PM - Thread Starter
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More black GOM on the way. Thought I had enough for the projector box, but no luck. Should be here in the next day or so.

My brother was a help, he did a little poly yesterday on the casing and then we did the pre-stain and 1st coat of stain on the remainder of the casing. Base molding and crown should go quicker, but still have three jambs and four doors to do.

Bud
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post #1513 of 4397 Old 04-20-2006, 01:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Went to Big Orange today during lunch to finalize the bar plans and cabinets for the concession area. They turned me away, needed an appointment. Grrrrrr . Going back tomorrow during lunch though. Spent some time looking at flooring with the wife as well, we brought home some samples and made an appointment for someone to come out and do the official measure. I'm hoping to finalize the flooring in the next week for the whole basement and place the order. Of course, the install won't happen for a few weeks the way I'm going, but its motivational!

Yeah, I know Jerrod, back to work ....

Bud
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post #1514 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 05:28 AM - Thread Starter
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The extra black GOM arrived for the projector box. It was actually sitting on the front porch since yesterday. They must have come when I was at Home Depot.

Bud
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post #1515 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 06:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Here's what we're thinking about going with for carpet and flooring. It's not an exciting carpet with a pattern or anything, but it compliments the Lido GOM well. I didn't want any clashes between the carpet and material. The carpet is a "Trafficmaster", 100% Nylon carpet - Type 6,6 BCG Nylon, Style Regatta 359, 48 oz. weight. It's density is 2.764 and twist is rated at 6.0. It's about 26.00 a square yard installed, including pad.

The first picture is "Creme Caramel" color.


The second is "Sanded Silk" color.


Not sure if you can tell the difference in two carpets, the top one is a little less tan. Any body like one over the other? The Creme Caramel is on the right column in the middle. The Sanded Silk is top row in the middle.


The actual stained trim is a little darker (a little redder actually) as well. The small piece was wiped on and off quickly, whereas the real pieces were brushed on and wiped on, but the stain was on longer since it was a bigger piece. I still like it though.

Also, the Laminate in the picture is probably what I'll end up in the concession area and the gameroom. I thought about glue down, but decided its not worth the pain. It's a Dupont laminate, "Merbau Block", product code FG8010. It has the preinstalled foam underlayment and has a 30 year wear warranty. It's special order, but right now its 20% off, so its around 3.10 a square foot.

The measurement guy comes on Monday.

Bud
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post #1516 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 06:31 AM
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Bud...

I'm leaning toward the "Sanded Silk". It's a little darker (by my monitor) and might be better for hiding dirt and such, and maybe disappear when the lights are off during a movie.

We had our carpet installed from "big orange" and I have to say, go with the upgraded pad. The top of the pad is coated and prevents spills from passing all the way through to the floor, and makes for easier clean-up. Not to mention it sure feels good under foot. For only $1/sqyd, I think it's worth it.

Sean

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post #1517 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 06:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Sean,

Thanks for the reply. Good point and noted. I usually upgrade pad anyway. I used to use a rubber pad, which really helps with spills.

Also, I'm still out on the black stage. I want to go with black carpet on the stage. Saw some yesterday, but not sure of this carpet next to it and how that'll look. This carpet is a Frieze, the black carpet is a standard pile. What do you think?

Bud
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post #1518 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 06:44 AM
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Bud - just my opinion, but I wouldn't go with a carpet that light. That's a lot of surface area to reflect...
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post #1519 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 06:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I know its light. I've thought about that. Its so dark now, I'm concerned about the cave look. I'm reluctant to go much darker though. I think the black on the stage will help, I really don't want to match the green either, it would be like being in a can of pea soup.

I'll have to use the large sample and test the reflections and see if it makes a difference.

Bud
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post #1520 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 06:56 AM
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Bud...

I like the idea of the black carpet for the stage, but I'm not sure how it will look with the Frieze. The black would look nice against the black GOM on the front wall.
Maybe run the "Sanded Silk" up the riser of the stage, and then do the black over the lip and on top. That makes the fieze look a little darker and "bunchier"(if that's really a word), before meeting the black. Other option might be to pick a dark color out of the carpet you choose in a frieze, and cover the stage in that. So that all the carpet texture will be the same.

Straight black carpet shows a lot of dust and carpet "pills" from other carpets as you move from one to the other.

Sean

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post #1521 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 07:00 AM
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I like the Sanded Silk.
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post #1522 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Also, the Laminate in the picture is probably what I'll end up int he concession area and the gameroom. I thought about glue down, but decided its not worth the pain. It's a Dupont laminate, "Merbau Block", product code FG8010. It has the preinstalled foam underlayment and has a 30 year wear warranty. It's special order, but right now its 20% off, so its around 3.10 a square foot.

The measurement guy comes on Monday.

Bud

Bud, If you've got a Lumber Liquidators near you, I would go look at their DreamHome Nirvana V3 Laminate before buying anything. I've had laminate in my first home (Pergo), and I've looked at just about every laminate on the market to put down in the house I just vacated to turn into a lease house. I wanted something that would wear well, be water resistant, and go together well. The first one is obvious. My biggest complaint about Pergo was that if it got wet at all it would immediately start to bubble, and when you have kids there are tons of spills. And it didn't go together well at all. When you put the pieces together, occasionally you'd have pieces that didn't fit well or absolutely refused to go in. And I ate up more than a few boards by trying to use the dang tapping block and ended up with the finish chipping off.

In the house I just moved out of, I ripped up aproximately 1400 sq. ft. of carpet (everything else was tiled) and replaced it all with the LL Nivarna V3 laminate in New Orleans Reclaimed Pine finish. When I was looking at laminates, here were my criteria:
  • Must look as close to real wood as possible. No 6" wide planks with three board patters on it that don't match up on the small ends like my Pergo did. It never looked right. It also should have a woodgrain texture.

    Must go together firmly on all sides.

    I wanted beveled/microbeveled edges, again so that it looked like wood.

    Had to withstand water exposure, both drips and larger spills.

    I didn't want to spend more than $2.50 per sq. ft.

I finally decided on the Armstrong Sqiftlock at $3.50 sq. ft. at Big Orange or Blue (can't remember which) because it was the only thing that looked good and met some of my criteria. Then I remembered that I had read about the Lumber Liquidators stuff when I was looking at purchasing/remodelling a student condo for a lease property last summer, and since they had opened a new location near me I wanted to check it out.

The Nirvana stuff is 3.5" wide/8mm deep with a pre-attached 3mm foam underlayment. It looks like single planks that come in 3 lengths per box with a wood image laminated on top with a wood texture over that. It locks together firmly on all four sides and takes a decent amount of abuse during cutting and installation. It also has microbeveled edges. But here's the two best parts: It's $1.99/sq. ft. (!) and it's extremely water resistant. How water resistant? Let's just say I left some excess cut pieces out on my patio table after my living room installation and they got rained on twice. That's rained on for a few days, left out in the sun to dry, rained on again for a day and then left to dry again. When I realized I had left some out there, I decided to grab the larger cuts and check their condition. The pieces all snapped together firmly and none of the boards showed any sign of warping or swelling when compared and snapped together with new boards removed from a box in the garage. That feature alone makes it one of the best laminates I've ever seen.

Here's a pic of the Nirvana V3 laminate installed in my old living room.

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post #1523 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 07:03 AM
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I wouldn't mix carpet "textures" (frieze, regular etc...). Also, I agree with ebr and think you should go for a darker carpet in the main area.
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post #1524 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 07:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JosephShaw View Post

Bud, If you've got a Lumber Liquidators near you, I would go look at their DreamHome Nirvana V3 Laminate before buying anything.

Here's a pic of the Nirvana V3 laminate installed in my old living room.

With kids and a bar, water or spills will be an issue. One of my pet peeves if the sound when walking with shoes, although thats only likely on occasion and not by me. What does it sound like?

We do have a LL in Marietta. Maybe I'll take a ride down on Saturday. Your floor looks good. How wide are those boards and what are the three lengths?

Bud
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post #1525 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 07:36 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm a little nervous of mixing textures as well, but would like to keep it all black if possible. I'll have to look to see if there are other alternatives.

The good news is that the measurement won't cost anything, so if I decide to change my mind, thats done at least.

Bud
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post #1526 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 08:41 AM
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Bud, out of the two choices you have given, I like the "sanded silk".

I feel your pain

Ronnie
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post #1527 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

With kids and a bar, water or spills will be an issue. One of my pet peeves if the sound when walking with shoes, although thats only likely on occasion and not by me. What does it sound like?

Pretty good, actually. It's hard to describe, but it sounds close to hardwoods when I walk on it. If you go to Lumber Liquidators they should have it laid out in an area for you to walk on. I've got one area in the formal dining room where there is a slight dip that I didn't find before the install. That area has a slight creek when you walk on it, but it's not very loud. I'm still tempted to bring up the floor and put some self levelling patch in so I won't have to worry about it. The rest of the foundation was pretty flat, thankfully. In my first house, we had a rock about the size of my fist in the foundation that was poking up, so I had to rent a grinder and wheel from Big Orange to smooth it down. That's so much more inconvenient than just applying a concrete patching compound.

Quote:


We do have a LL in Marietta. Maybe I'll take a ride down on Saturday. Your floor looks good. How wide are those boards and what are the three lengths?

Bud

The boards are either 3" or 3.5" wide, and the three lengths are aproximately 16", 32", and 48" long. You get eight 48" boards, and sixteen each of the 16" and 32" boards. I'd have to check the package insert at home to make sure. I was doing 10'x10' rooms by myself in 7 hours, though I spent a lot of time walking to the mitre saw in the backyard to make my cuts. I finally realized it was faster to lay out the floor three or four rows at a time, then walk to the backyard to make the cuts and start three or four more new rows. With help it went much faster; I could be making the cuts and come back to find more rows laid out and ready to have the end pieces cut. My wife and I working together were able to do an 18x16 room in just under 10 hours, but it had a fireplace on a 45 degree wall with a rounded hearth that took a lot of time to cut for. Also, if the walls are pretty much in square, I would just lay out all the rows and not snap them together until had 15 or 20 rows laid out. I also would have kept the saw inside, but this stuff is as dusty as sawing MDF.

They should have sample pieces of all the colors available for the Nirvana V3. Ask to see a couple of each color, and make sure you get some male/female end pieces so you can see how they go together. The only thing my wife and I found is that the different colors don't go together well, but that seems to be intentional as they appear to be cut slightly different so you don't accidentally put in a row of the cherry with the mahogany, since they are close in color. We've purchased boards from different pallets in the same style and they've all gone together perfectly.

Joseph

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post #1528 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 08:49 AM
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Bud,

I have a carpet that almost matches the "sanded silk" only maybe a little darker. It is also a frieze. IMO, it is not too dark and does an excellent job of hiding my kids "accidents". I ran it up onto the stage because I liked this more unified look. Good luck with your choice.

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post #1529 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 08:54 AM
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I think the silk is better as well.

As to the laminate flooring, it would be fine in the bar area, but not in the theater room. It will mess up the acoustics that you have deadened everywhere else. In one of my previous houses we went with Wilsonart, which really held up to the abuse, but the whole house became an echo chamber. That effect was minimized by area rugs, but when we moved and the house was empty, it was very noticeable, even in regular conversation.

I would just go with Scotchgard-ed carpet.

Ketih
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post #1530 of 4397 Old 04-21-2006, 09:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Dropper,

The carpet would be in the theater room and on the stage, the laminate in the concession area would be closed off by a door. I'm probably tile inside the bar area.

Bud
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